Just bought an IBM Model M SSK

[do_Og@n]

Hello everybody,

     I just bought myself an IBM Model SSK and I'm looking to do some mods to get it working like new. I've already taken it apart and cleaned the holy hell out of it. Aside from that I was thinking about the following:

 1- Replace all Pivot Plate & Springs.
 2- Replace Space Bar (It is really loud, may just need a new Pivot Plate & Spring but I want a grey one anyways).
 3- Get the RGB set from Unicomp's website.
 4- Get a set of orange G and H keycaps.

     I've heard of other mods like changing it from PS2 to USB or bolt modding. I would like to try my luck at the bolt modding before I decide to get new PP&S's.

Does anybody out there have any other suggestions on mods?

[snoopy]

I personally like the floss mod really much... http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=9761.0

But you have to be careful, if you cut the floss 1mm longer or one 1mm shorter, the key has a complete different feel and sound. And in the tutorial above, the floss sticks a bit out of the spring... Personally I hadn't good experience with that. Some keys even didn't work anymore. It feels better if it doesn't stick out.

[mashby]

4- Get a set of orange G and H keycaps.

Do these exist, if so where? 

[Halverson]

4- Get a set of orange G and H keycaps.

Do these exist, if so where? 

Unicomp sells coloured caps. I have orange G and H on one of my model m's.

[mashby]

Unicomp sells coloured caps. I have orange G and H on one of my model m's.

DONE.

I had no idea this was an option! I bought an orange G&H, a green Esc and an RGB set to get over the $10 minimum. Thank you Halverson! 

[fohat.digs]

The bolt mod is often a big help. I have never screwed one up, but the 7th was surely a lot easier and faster than the first.

The floss mod is great, I do it on all my M/Fs. The spring seat at the top of the stem is very sensitive, and if the floss is too long, it will not seat properly. Luckily, if this happens, the floss usually comes out stuck in the stem!

[iri]

I personally like the floss mod really much... http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=9761.0

But you have to be careful, if you cut the floss 1mm longer or one 1mm shorter, the key has a complete different feel and sound. And in the tutorial above, the floss sticks a bit out of the spring... Personally I hadn't good experience with that. Some keys even didn't work anymore. It feels better if it doesn't stick out.

keys can have complete different feel and sound even if the floss length is the same. floss is inconsistent. so are the springs.

[rknize]

1) There is really no need for this unless the springs are damaged or rusty.  You might consider replacing the rubber mat if you see any stretched-out areas.  You can buy one from Unicomp and cut it down to size with some sharp scissors.

2) Pretty common.  Replacing the bar probably won't change anything.  The noise if from the stabilizer rattling.  A bit of grease where it slides in the barrel frame will cure it.

3+4) Of course!  These look great on there.

[do_Og@n]

I just bought a second one....it's like there is an addiction in collecting keyboards.

[reverkiller]

I just bought a second one....it's like there is an addiction in collecting keyboards.

How am I supposed to save money and buy one of these if you're buying them all up!

[rknize]

I was up to three from a while back, but finally sold one.    Trying to keep my hoarding in check.

[do_Og@n]

I just bought a second one....it's like there is an addiction in collecting keyboards.

How am I supposed to save money and buy one of these if you're buying them all up!

After I'm done modding them (and if I can part with one) I'll try to give you a good deal.

[iri]

is ssk superior to unicomp in terms of quality? do ssk keys require more force to actuate than unicomp's?

[do_Og@n]

is ssk superior to unicomp in terms of quality? do ssk keys require more force to actuate than unicomp's?

The SSK with the grey label (I believe) was made before IBM was bought by Unicomp so they were made to higher standards. They use the same buckling spring as the regular model M so they feel the same. The only big difference is the size and rarity.

[mR_fRag`]

Oh, i want so bad one SSK...i was thinking buy one of these on taobao but i suppose it will be so hard :/

[sleepy916]

I'm looking for one too, seems like you can't find one for less than $150 nowadays.

[iri]

The floss mod is great, I do it on all my M/Fs. The spring seat at the top of the stem is very sensitive, and if the floss is too long, it will not seat properly. Luckily, if this happens, the floss usually comes out stuck in the stem!

i can confirm that. and while floss mod is easy, there are subtleties. final key feel and sound can really vary depending on floss length and floss positioning in stem.

[ed_avis]

"before IBM was bought by Unicomp"

[iri]

yeah, i liked this phrase too, lol

[Shadovved]

I always thought IBM was bought by lenovo 

[snoopy]

I always thought IBM was bought by lenovo 

only their notebook division

[Shadovved]

I always thought IBM was bought by lenovo 

only their notebook division

I see.........

So its partially correct then 

[rknize]

The floss mod is great, I do it on all my M/Fs. The spring seat at the top of the stem is very sensitive, and if the floss is too long, it will not seat properly. Luckily, if this happens, the floss usually comes out stuck in the stem!

i can confirm that. and while floss mod is easy, there are subtleties. final key feel and sound can really vary depending on floss length and floss positioning in stem.

Indeed.  Letting the floss stick out slightly can really kill the feel of the switch while cutting it a little short can make the mod have almost no affect.  The grease mod is more consistent this way, but is much more difficult to reverse.

[iri]

i'd say 1mm of extra length is fine, BUT proper installation of stem is really important. spring should go to its place.

[do_Og@n]

I'm not much for changing the feel of the keyboard or make the keys quieter. Does the bolt mod change the way the keys feel or just how accessible the springs are for replacement? Does anyone out there have a link to instructions on how to do a bolt mod?

[fohat.digs]

Here is the link.

http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Modifications:IBM_Model_M:Nut_and_Bolt_Mod

Forget the chisel and get a chisel insert for your Xacto knife. Use a soldering iron to make a divot to start your drill.

Here is the hardware you need (you only need 1 pack of 100 of each item, and that is enough for 2 bolt mods, they take about 50 each) :

The bottom row is self-tapping screws that make the front row a little easier. You probably get a better connection by clipping out a little notch from the ridge to make room for a nut on a regular bolt. Much cheaper, too.

[rknize]

Forget the chisel and get a chisel insert for your Xacto knife.

That is what I also normally use, but I couldn't find it for the photo op. 

[do_Og@n]

Here is the link.

http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Modifications:IBM_Model_M:Nut_and_Bolt_Mod

Forget the chisel and get a chisel insert for your Xacto knife. Use a soldering iron to make a divot to start your drill.
The bottom row is self-tapping screws that make the front row a little easier. You probably get a better connection by clipping out a little notch from the ridge to make room for a nut on a regular bolt. Much cheaper, too.

SWEET!!! I'll be sure to take pictures of the whole process once I get the parts and time.

[do_Og@n]

Just got my second ssk. I didn't realize the keycaps on the 87 were one piece.

[urbanus]

I'm not much for changing the feel of the keyboard or make the keys quieter. Does the bolt mod change the way the keys feel or just how accessible the springs are for replacement? Does anyone out there have a link to instructions on how to do a bolt mod?

Bolt modding is an extreme step, and it will probably have a large negative impact the resale value of your board.

If I had a model M that was completely broken and my last recourse was to bolt mod it then yeah, I would go for it.  Otherwise no way -- especially not to a SSK that's still in working order.  That would be madness.

[sleepy916]

Where are you finding these SSKs? I'm always too late to the game.

[do_Og@n]

I am an ebay ****....I've set a filter that informs me when there is a new SSK up for sale. I think I'm done at 2 though.

[Halverson]

Where are you finding these SSKs? I'm always too late to the game.

Always check Taobao as well.

[fohat.digs]

It is truly sad that bolt modding lowers the value of a Model M. I learned that the hard way.

After doing it a couple of times, and realizing how great it was, I thought that I could bolt-mod a few of the spares I had on hand, and make a few $20 bills in profit. Wrong.

Besides the hardware costing at least $10, shipped, etc, and the couple of hours work involved, it seems to me that a good bolt-modded M should sell in $100 range.

But, I suppose that it is foolish to expect to get more than the price of a new Unicomp.

[rknize]

I'd say it really depends on the buyer.  If they are a collector, then yeah...they will pay less.  If it is someone looking for a reliable Model M...they might pay a little more for one that has been gone through and bolt modded than some mystery eBay unit.

[figit090]

ok what exactly does bolt modding DO.  found the tutorials...doesn't describe any huge benefit for all that work.

[fohat.digs]

The melted plastic rivets that hold the layers together tend to break off. As the layers rattle around, the keyboard feels mushy and odd, with an inconsistent feel across the keys.

Sometimes keys will stop registering altogether.

Cutting off the plastic and replacing those little studs with tiny bolts and nuts makes the whole thing feel solid and consistent. You can adjust the feel by how hard you torque the bolts.

Taking the whole assembly apart gives you the opportunity to totally clean it throughout, and makes replacing springs (one or all) very easy. There are also "secret" keys that you can activate, or change the layout somewhat to suit your preference.

There is a law of diminishing returns. If you spend 2 hours to improve the "quality" of the experience by 2% of something that you use 2000 hours per year, and intend to use for several years, was it worth it?

Only you can decide.

This is a hobby. Some people spend hundreds of hours painting model trains.

[sleepy916]

I'm going to try it on my model m soon, I just got the everything I needed. The tutorials I've seen make it seem pretty straight forward. I hope I don't mess up.

[fohat.digs]

The only hard part is drilling the holes.

You want them straight, clean, and centered in the shafts of the former rivets. The hole is roughly half the size of the stem, maybe a little more.

The shaft fits the hole in the metal plate, so there is a bit of room there, but not a lot.

I think it works best to use a soldering iron to make a tiny divot at the top of the shaft to start the drill bit. Holding the drill steady and vertical is crucial.

My Dremel works well with a sharp, fresh bit, but I wish that it had at least one more setting slower than the slowest it has.