Author Topic: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)  (Read 3556188 times)

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Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14400 on: Tue, 19 January 2016, 14:41:00 »
Okay, how do I take apart my WASD V2? There aren't screws under the legs.
Huh, I just checked on mine, there's none under my legs either.

Is there a sticker on the back? Perhaps you need to break the sticker in order to open the back so they can tell because it would probably void the warranty.

Waaaaaa

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14401 on: Tue, 19 January 2016, 14:42:08 »
Okay, how do I take apart my WASD V2? There aren't screws under the legs.
Huh, I just checked on mine, there's none under my legs either.

Is there a sticker on the back? Perhaps you need to break the sticker in order to open the back so they can tell because it would probably void the warranty.

Waaaaaa

Should be under the OK sticker. At least that's where the screw is on Filcos.

Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14402 on: Tue, 19 January 2016, 14:42:32 »
Okay, how do I take apart my WASD V2? There aren't screws under the legs.
Huh, I just checked on mine, there's none under my legs either.

Is there a sticker on the back? Perhaps you need to break the sticker in order to open the back so they can tell because it would probably void the warranty.

Waaaaaa

Try that sticker that says "Do Not Remove"  they are usually under there.
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Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14403 on: Tue, 19 January 2016, 14:54:25 »
Okay, how do I take apart my WASD V2? There aren't screws under the legs.
Huh, I just checked on mine, there's none under my legs either.

Is there a sticker on the back? Perhaps you need to break the sticker in order to open the back so they can tell because it would probably void the warranty.

Waaaaaa

Try that sticker that says "Do Not Remove"  they are usually under there.

There is 1. Um.

Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14404 on: Tue, 19 January 2016, 15:32:00 »
http://imgur.com/a/D2HQI

Found this but I only have two hands wtf

Offline derb2k2

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14405 on: Tue, 19 January 2016, 18:57:52 »
When will Brian from EK re-stock on 45g RF??

 :( :( :(
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Offline CommonCurt

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14406 on: Tue, 19 January 2016, 21:22:23 »
http://imgur.com/a/D2HQI

Found this but I only have two hands wtf

Could you not find any videos on Youtube?

When will Brian from EK re-stock on 45g RF??

 :( :( :(

Don't think that question can be answered here.  I would email Brian and ask.
Some of Ye ole  Keyboards -->
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OTD Koala:  62g Old MX-Blacks   |   LZ-GH V2:  MX-?62g   |   KMAC2:   62g Tactile MX-Greys   |   LZ CLS s:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   X60:   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   GON NerD 60:  62g Old MX-Clears   |   Filco MJ2 (Beige) TKL's:  62g MX-Clears  &   62g Vintage MX-Blacks   |   IBM '91 SSK
                                
       
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Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14407 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 03:41:19 »
Hey, I need a little help with my ALPS board.

They are complicated white alps in a Focus FK-2001.

I tried lubing a few switches because they felt scratchy, I started with Numlock 7 as a test, it went fine, but when I did 4 the switch has now lost all tactility and feels completely linear.

I thought it was because I used too much lube, so i wiped it all off and gave it a quick rinse until it didn't feel greasy, and then I put it back, it still feels the same. I have no idea why its doing this. All of the parts are in exactly how they should be. The keys still work fine BTW. I can upload pictures later if needed.

Thanks.

Offline bocahgundul

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14408 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 04:43:16 »
Hey, I need a little help with my ALPS board.

They are complicated white alps in a Focus FK-2001.

I tried lubing a few switches because they felt scratchy, I started with Numlock 7 as a test, it went fine, but when I did 4 the switch has now lost all tactility and feels completely linear.

I thought it was because I used too much lube, so i wiped it all off and gave it a quick rinse until it didn't feel greasy, and then I put it back, it still feels the same. I have no idea why its doing this. All of the parts are in exactly how they should be. The keys still work fine BTW. I can upload pictures later if needed.

Thanks.
Nope don't ever lube clicky switches ever. Well there is a guide for it but its really complicated so just don't lube your alps just clean it like in this videos
Thank you chryos for the videos all courtesy from chyros

Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14409 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 04:54:16 »
Hey, I need a little help with my ALPS board.

They are complicated white alps in a Focus FK-2001.

I tried lubing a few switches because they felt scratchy, I started with Numlock 7 as a test, it went fine, but when I did 4 the switch has now lost all tactility and feels completely linear.

I thought it was because I used too much lube, so i wiped it all off and gave it a quick rinse until it didn't feel greasy, and then I put it back, it still feels the same. I have no idea why its doing this. All of the parts are in exactly how they should be. The keys still work fine BTW. I can upload pictures later if needed.

Thanks.
Nope don't ever lube clicky switches ever. Well there is a guide for it but its really complicated so just don't lube your alps just clean it like in this videos
Thank you chryos for the videos all courtesy from chyros

That's the video I used to take it apart, all I did was lube the slider, and I cleaned it off so it should still work at least a little!

After more cleaning and tweaking the tactile leaf, the key has regained a majority of its tactility but with no click. This is so weird.


Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14410 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 05:26:46 »

Offline wockytocky

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14411 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 14:11:31 »
Is there an easy way to make an FC660c programmable? Maybe something like Hasu's alternate HHKB controller but for the fc660c?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14412 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 14:19:55 »
More
Hey, I need a little help with my ALPS board.

They are complicated white alps in a Focus FK-2001.

I tried lubing a few switches because they felt scratchy, I started with Numlock 7 as a test, it went fine, but when I did 4 the switch has now lost all tactility and feels completely linear.

I thought it was because I used too much lube, so i wiped it all off and gave it a quick rinse until it didn't feel greasy, and then I put it back, it still feels the same. I have no idea why its doing this. All of the parts are in exactly how they should be. The keys still work fine BTW. I can upload pictures later if needed.

Thanks.
Nope don't ever lube clicky switches ever. Well there is a guide for it but its really complicated so just don't lube your alps just clean it like in this videos
Thank you chryos for the videos all courtesy from chyros


That's the video I used to take it apart, all I did was lube the slider, and I cleaned it off so it should still work at least a little!

After more cleaning and tweaking the tactile leaf, the key has regained a majority of its tactility but with no click. This is so weird.

I think there should be two leaves. One makes the clickyness and one provides the contact to the PCB. Do you have both leaves in the switch?

Is there an easy way to make an FC660c programmable? Maybe something like Hasu's alternate HHKB controller but for the fc660c?

Maybe this?

http://imgur.com/a/D2HQI

Found this but I only have two hands wtf

Could you not find any videos on Youtube?

Nope

So you unscrew the only screw then the case halves are just snap fit together. So you run a credit card or something relatively thin and flexible between the two case halves and kinda lever the snap fits apart. That's how my Filco is and that's how that CODE looks.

Offline dgneo

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14413 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 14:22:35 »

Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14414 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 15:36:26 »
Is there an easy way to make an FC660c programmable? Maybe something like Hasu's alternate HHKB controller but for the fc660c?

Maybe this?

+1   Indeed, I believe this is the only option at this time.

Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14415 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 15:39:30 »
So you unscrew the only screw then the case halves are just snap fit together. So you run a credit card or something relatively thin and flexible between the two case halves and kinda lever the snap fits apart. That's how my Filco is and that's how that CODE looks.

There's probably a millimeter that I have to lever in, I genuinely can't figure this out

Offline wockytocky

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14416 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 16:16:17 »


Is there an easy way to make an FC660c programmable? Maybe something like Hasu's alternate HHKB controller but for the fc660c?

Maybe this?



Looks interesting, thanks!

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14417 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 16:23:08 »
So you unscrew the only screw then the case halves are just snap fit together. So you run a credit card or something relatively thin and flexible between the two case halves and kinda lever the snap fits apart. That's how my Filco is and that's how that CODE looks.

There's probably a millimeter that I have to lever in, I genuinely can't figure this out

Yes, you'll have to use a little bit of force to get your tool into there. The case halves should have a little give. If they don't give, you haven't removed all the screws yet.

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14418 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 16:54:11 »
CBA, what was the most difficult case for you to crack into?
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14419 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 16:56:41 »
CBA, what was the most difficult case for you to crack into?

Photoelectric was kind enough to paint a camo Filco top for my Filco Zero. However, the camo Filco top was slightly smaller than the Zero so I spent ages sanding it down so that it would fit. It's still not perfect and it scares me every time I remove it that it will snap. And it's really hard to get on as well.

Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14420 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 17:20:42 »
Did it.

Took some force and a blunt knife but did it. Thanks Cpt :thumb:

Offline joey

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14421 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 18:05:40 »
Best way to get purple RF sliders?

Offline nmur

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14422 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 18:08:52 »
gonna dremel out some bit from my TEX acrylic case.

anyone have a suggestion of what dremel bit I should use?

Offline Connly33

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14423 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 18:18:42 »
gonna dremel out some bit from my TEX acrylic case.

anyone have a suggestion of what dremel bit I should use?

Just from my experience with PC case modding, if your going to be cutting, either a straight router bit, or a mini saw attachment, depending on what you're doing exactly,  that has a medium teeth per inch count, to fine and it will just melt the acrylic, and not fine enough and it will just tear it up. For grinding corners or ridges down a medium fine planer bit is usually the best.

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Offline nmur

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14424 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 18:26:41 »
gonna dremel out some bit from my TEX acrylic case.

anyone have a suggestion of what dremel bit I should use?

Just from my experience with PC case modding, if your going to be cutting, either a straight router bit, or a mini saw attachment, depending on what you're doing exactly,  that has a medium teeth per inch count, to fine and it will just melt the acrylic, and not fine enough and it will just tear it up. For grinding corners or ridges down a medium fine planer bit is usually the best.

ah okay thank you

I'm gonna be removing sections of the support ridges inside the case to allow room for RGB components on the underside of a PCB. so I might be using a combination of cutting and routing.

Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14425 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 21:30:50 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14426 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 21:31:36 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.
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Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14427 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 21:34:07 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.

Seems like they are skilled enough to make the most desired boards in the community (OTD, LZ)

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14428 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 21:38:05 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.

Seems like they are skilled enough to make the most desired boards in the community (OTD, LZ)

Really though, the reason is because labor is dirt cheap over there and corporate greed runs rampant over here.  The cost is in the tolerances.  For example with Sherlines benchtop mills and lathes, for them to increase the accuracy of their machines by ~5%, it would increase the cost of the machine by a factor of 10.
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Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14429 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 21:43:49 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.

Seems like they are skilled enough to make the most desired boards in the community (OTD, LZ)

Really though, the reason is because labor is dirt cheap over there and corporate greed runs rampant over here.  The cost is in the tolerances.  For example with Sherlines benchtop mills and lathes, for them to increase the accuracy of their machines by ~5%, it would increase the cost of the machine by a factor of 10.

That's really interesting

So are the high prices in Western markets such as the US mostly labor or is it that the accuracy of the machining is significantly better than what's typical in Korea?

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14430 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 21:49:16 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.

Seems like they are skilled enough to make the most desired boards in the community (OTD, LZ)

Really though, the reason is because labor is dirt cheap over there and corporate greed runs rampant over here.  The cost is in the tolerances.  For example with Sherlines benchtop mills and lathes, for them to increase the accuracy of their machines by ~5%, it would increase the cost of the machine by a factor of 10.

That's really interesting

So are the high prices in Western markets such as the US mostly labor or is it that the accuracy of the machining is significantly better than what's typical in Korea?

From what I have seen, both.  Cherry and Alps switches are very forgiving on the tolerances.  A lot of the shops that actually machine (not including water jet and laser) work to tolerances much lower than what these require.  For instance, with surface grinding, it is not uncommon at all to have to work to tolerances of +/-.0002".  Cherry switch tolerances are about 10 times that.  Even tighter tolerances are possibly fairly easily if you are willing to spend the time and money to get there. 

Hell, I personally did a shaft alignment a month or so ago in the field, with shaft offset and angular missalignment errors of less than .001".  All depends on the tools you have.
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Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14431 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 22:04:32 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.

Seems like they are skilled enough to make the most desired boards in the community (OTD, LZ)

Really though, the reason is because labor is dirt cheap over there and corporate greed runs rampant over here.  The cost is in the tolerances.  For example with Sherlines benchtop mills and lathes, for them to increase the accuracy of their machines by ~5%, it would increase the cost of the machine by a factor of 10.

That's really interesting

So are the high prices in Western markets such as the US mostly labor or is it that the accuracy of the machining is significantly better than what's typical in Korea?

From what I have seen, both.  Cherry and Alps switches are very forgiving on the tolerances.  A lot of the shops that actually machine (not including water jet and laser) work to tolerances much lower than what these require.  For instance, with surface grinding, it is not uncommon at all to have to work to tolerances of +/-.0002".  Cherry switch tolerances are about 10 times that.  Even tighter tolerances are possibly fairly easily if you are willing to spend the time and money to get there. 

Hell, I personally did a shaft alignment a month or so ago in the field, with shaft offset and angular missalignment errors of less than .001".  All depends on the tools you have.

Man that's a ridiculous level of tolerance - is it typical for most US machining shops to work on these incredibly low tolerances?

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14432 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 22:19:23 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.

Seems like they are skilled enough to make the most desired boards in the community (OTD, LZ)

Really though, the reason is because labor is dirt cheap over there and corporate greed runs rampant over here.  The cost is in the tolerances.  For example with Sherlines benchtop mills and lathes, for them to increase the accuracy of their machines by ~5%, it would increase the cost of the machine by a factor of 10.

That's really interesting

So are the high prices in Western markets such as the US mostly labor or is it that the accuracy of the machining is significantly better than what's typical in Korea?

From what I have seen, both.  Cherry and Alps switches are very forgiving on the tolerances.  A lot of the shops that actually machine (not including water jet and laser) work to tolerances much lower than what these require.  For instance, with surface grinding, it is not uncommon at all to have to work to tolerances of +/-.0002".  Cherry switch tolerances are about 10 times that.  Even tighter tolerances are possibly fairly easily if you are willing to spend the time and money to get there. 

Hell, I personally did a shaft alignment a month or so ago in the field, with shaft offset and angular missalignment errors of less than .001".  All depends on the tools you have.

Man that's a ridiculous level of tolerance - is it typical for most US machining shops to work on these incredibly low tolerances?

All depends what's being machined. A friend of mine works in a tool and die shop (for some reason they also make parts for boat racing) and some of their tolerances are incredibly tight!

Offline klennkellon

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14433 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 23:43:19 »
Can anyone directly compare Matias Click switches with the original Complicated White ALPS for me? I have used my ALPS board enough to think that I like the switches a lot for typing but would like to try something more modern in design.

Offline Photekq

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14434 on: Wed, 20 January 2016, 23:45:21 »
Why are Korean customs so cheap to manufacture compared to in the USA/UK/etc?

cheap labor isn't skilled, and skilled labor isn't cheap.
Is labor cheap in South Korea?
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Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14435 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 01:41:21 »
Are there any mass produced flat 60% cases? I have a feeling I would massively prefer a 0 incline keyboard, but it seems like it would be hard to do without going custom, and my piggy bank is not at that point yet.

I know the Planck is flat, so I'll get to try it in a few weeks :)

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14436 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 01:49:47 »
Are there any mass produced flat 60% cases? I have a feeling I would massively prefer a 0 incline keyboard, but it seems like it would be hard to do without going custom, and my piggy bank is not at that point yet.

I know the Planck is flat, so I'll get to try it in a few weeks :)
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Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14437 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 01:51:54 »
Are there any mass produced flat 60% cases? I have a feeling I would massively prefer a 0 incline keyboard, but it seems like it would be hard to do without going custom, and my piggy bank is not at that point yet.

I know the Planck is flat, so I'll get to try it in a few weeks :)

I think both the Tex Acrylic and the Tex Aluminum cases would be totally flat as long as you didn't put the feet on the end

Same thing for the Nerd 60 housing

Offline tofgerl

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14438 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 01:54:16 »
Damn, wish I knew that before splurging on this (slightly cheaper than TEX) case:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/60-keyboard-case

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14439 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 12:49:16 »
Can anyone directly compare Matias Click switches with the original Complicated White ALPS for me? I have used my ALPS board enough to think that I like the switches a lot for typing but would like to try something more modern in design.

I find that Complicated Whites are heavier and not as smooth as the Matias Click switches. I prefer Matias Click to Complicated Whites.

Offline xondat

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14440 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 13:12:01 »
Slightly on the topic of Korean customs, can anyone help me get quotes there? LeandreN & LSB said they're help but both have been busy :-[

Offline jd29

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14441 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 14:42:34 »
Is anyone else getting "Gatekeeper returned an error code: bad_code" when trying to log into keyboard layout editor?

Offline tassadarforaiur

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14442 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 15:44:01 »
Is the gt80 titan keyboard NKRO? All that MSI's website says is "steelseries anti-ghosting"

Offline Blaise170

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14443 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 17:36:04 »
Is the gt80 titan keyboard NKRO? All that MSI's website says is "steelseries anti-ghosting"

Check the manual, it might have it there.
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Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14444 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 19:36:05 »
We're 50 key IBMs made with F internals using the M style case, or did all the F versions have the 4704 style cast case?
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14445 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 19:41:31 »
We're 50 key IBMs made with F internals using the M style case, or did all the F versions have the 4704 style cast case?

It was a cast metal plate IIRC

Offline Melvang

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14446 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 19:43:51 »
We're 50 key IBMs made with F internals using the M style case, or did all the F versions have the 4704 style cast case?

It was a cast metal plate IIRC

Thanks CBA, I am assuming this one is M by the date on the label, but was F internals ever used in the same case?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/IBM-KEYBOARD-4707-50-KEY-POS-1392560-/172050888228?nav=SEARCH
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Offline UsualSuspectXXX

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14447 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 21:02:44 »
Are there any mass produced flat 60% cases? I have a feeling I would massively prefer a 0 incline keyboard, but it seems like it would be hard to do without going custom, and my piggy bank is not at that point yet.

I know the Planck is flat, so I'll get to try it in a few weeks :)

For something cheaper than Tex you could grab this on AliExpress

Offline swimmingbird

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14448 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 21:09:02 »
Why don't you see half plates that much in customs anymore?

Offline hwood34

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Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Reply #14449 on: Thu, 21 January 2016, 21:17:39 »
Why don't you see half plates that much in customs anymore?

I only remember seeing it for one OTD (360?), The Cheat, and an attempt at it for TGR which was recent
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