Keyboard Case Painting Tips

[Photoelectric]

Posting this for reference to those who are planning to participate in the CM QFR Cover Customization contest.  There is a difference between the coating on the silver cover and the coating on the black cover from the CM store.  The silver coating is thicker and sands more easily to a smooth transition between the underlying plastic and the coating.  I believe you don't need to remove all of the silver coating, just enough from the edges and large surfaces:

This is what a silver QFR cover looks like after being wet-sanded with 200-grit rough sandpaper to remove much of the rubbery silver coating, followed by fine 1000-grit sandpaper to smooth out the resulting grooves:

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The black cover, on the other hand, is a different story.  The coating on it is very thin and filmy, and once you sand off some, you basically have to keep going, as it frays and peels at the edges, and you can't sand it smooth.  Only off.

[Defying]

Well, I got my new QFR case a few days ago and I went ahead and painted it today. Came out rather nicely 

Few little flaws, but other wise I'm very happy with it.




The back. Oops.


And there's a little spec of dust too.


Otherwise, it's very nice! Just need to give it one more layer of clear coat tomorrow and wait for it to dry up.

I assume the scrape on the back isn't easily repairable. Oh well. I might order another QFR case while the promo is going still.

[germy]

Very nice colour Defying! May I ask what paint you used?

[Photoelectric]

I like that color

Which paint did you use?  The paint can be repaired on the back: just sand it gently (~600-grit quality sandpaper followed by 1000-grit to smooth out) to even out as much as possible and do another series of thin layers over that area and any other areas that you sand. 

Make sure to wet the surface really well with water and gently glide the sandpaper in a circular motion over the uneven part, sanding it.  Clean that area with water periodically so you can see your progress, and continue sanding until it looks and feels smooth.

Depending on the paint you've used, you need to wait at least 1-2 days--sometimes a lot longer--to add any more paint on top, or you will risk melting the paint underneath and causing bubbling / lifting.

[Defying]

Very nice colour Defying! May I ask what paint you used?

I like that color

Which paint did you use?  The paint can be repaired on the back: just sand it gently (~600-grit quality sandpaper followed by 1000-grit to smooth out) to even out as much as possible and do another series of thin layers over that area and any other areas that you sand. 

Make sure to wet the surface really well with water and gently glide the sandpaper in a circular motion over the uneven part, sanding it.  Clean that area with water periodically so you can see your progress, and continue sanding until it looks and feels smooth.

Depending on the paint you've used, you need to wait at least 1-2 days--sometimes a lot longer--to add any more paint on top, or you will risk melting the paint underneath and causing bubbling / lifting.

This is the paint I used:


And thank you for the advice, Photo! I'll try that tomorrow (depending on if this paint is okay or not). 

[Photoelectric]

That's good paint!  Wait a couple of days after you painted and then you can re-spray   Just sand as I mentioned beforehand and make sure to clean the keyboard really well.  Don't use rubbing alcohol on the paint, it will melt it / make it tacky.  You can just clean it with light detergent and water if you got it oily with dirty hands or what not.

[Defying]

That's good paint!  Wait a couple of days after you painted and then you can re-spray   Just sand as I mentioned beforehand and make sure to clean the keyboard really well.  Don't use rubbing alcohol on the paint, it will melt it / make it tacky.  You can just clean it with light detergent and water if you got it oily with dirty hands or what not.

Awesome. I wonder if I could do the same for that little spec of dust.. it's really noticeable and it's bothering me.

[Photoelectric]

That's good paint!  Wait a couple of days after you painted and then you can re-spray   Just sand as I mentioned beforehand and make sure to clean the keyboard really well.  Don't use rubbing alcohol on the paint, it will melt it / make it tacky.  You can just clean it with light detergent and water if you got it oily with dirty hands or what not.

Awesome. I wonder if I could do the same for that little spec of dust.. it's really noticeable and it's bothering me.

If you haven't clear-coated it, yes you can.  Just when you put paint over the sanded areas, don't do focused spraying into one spot, or you'll end up with too much paint, which will run and sag.  Go from a distance, at least 8-10" in a light sweeping motion.  Better to do a few light layers until it looks even.

[Defying]

That's good paint!  Wait a couple of days after you painted and then you can re-spray   Just sand as I mentioned beforehand and make sure to clean the keyboard really well.  Don't use rubbing alcohol on the paint, it will melt it / make it tacky.  You can just clean it with light detergent and water if you got it oily with dirty hands or what not.

Awesome. I wonder if I could do the same for that little spec of dust.. it's really noticeable and it's bothering me.

If you haven't clear-coated it, yes you can.  Just when you put paint over the sanded areas, don't do focused spraying into one spot, or you'll end up with too much paint, which will run and sag.  Go from a distance, at least 8-10" in a light sweeping motion.  Better to do a few light layers until it looks even.

Ah.. I've already clear coated it. I think it landed on top of the clear coat as it was drying because it wasn't there before I used it.

Oh! And thank you for the Rustoleum suggestion!  )
I went ahead and (tried) spray painting the bottom case for my QFR with Krylon (~month old, was basically full).. Ended up basically ruining the entire bottom (unless I sand the paint off, or use some of that Easy-Off stuff).





Close up:



A horrible macro with my kit lens:


This was the color scheme I was going for:



Will be adding some white thick PBT's soon.

Err.. my spoilers aren't working. Sorry for crapping your thread with tons of pictures.

[Photoelectric]

If you've clear-coated, it's definitely more tricky.  You can mask off a larger area around the uneven part on the back using blue painter's tape.  Sand then spray green over the area in light layers.  Wait until it dries, take off the tape, sand to smoothness where the painter's tape meets the painted area (something very smooth like 2000-grit, wet-sanding).  Then Clear coat in a day or two.
---
Yeah, Krylon's Fusion is very tricky paint, tough to remove, and just generally meh.  I don't like it.  The best way to remove it is still harsh sandpaper, like 200-grit, but it's tough to sand through it.  You can try spraying the original (yellow can) Easy-Off on and waiting 10-15 min, then scrubbing with a harsh sponge under running water.  You may need to spray a couple times.  Then sand.  If you do use Easy-Off, DON'T breathe at all while you spray.  The fumes are extremely irritating and will make you cough like crazy   And wear rubber gloves!

[do_Og@n]

@Defying

Have you come up with a name for you keyboard yet?

Great paint work btw....I've got one I'm going to attempt to paint probably tomorrow (later today )

Since I have 6 extra QFR cases I might as well start practicing.

[Findecanor]

The black cover, on the other hand, is a different story.  The coating on it is very thin and filmy, and once you sand off some, you basically have to keep going, as it frays and peels at the edges, and you can't sand it smooth.  Only off.

Has anyone tried White Spirit / Turpentine on the black QFR's coating?

I have had other types of products where White Spirit makes a coating peel off easily, but does not damage the ABS plastic underneath.
Be sure to use a degreaser afterwards, to remove the oily "spirit", otherwise paint won't stick. Denatured alcohol should work.

[Defying]

@Defying

Have you come up with a name for you keyboard yet?

Great paint work btw....I've got one I'm going to attempt to paint probably tomorrow (later today )

Since I have 6 extra QFR cases I might as well start practicing.

Hmm.. not exactly.

Maybe something like "Key Lime Pie"?  )

[do_Og@n]

@Defying

Have you come up with a name for you keyboard yet?

Great paint work btw....I've got one I'm going to attempt to paint probably tomorrow (later today )

Since I have 6 extra QFR cases I might as well start practicing.

Hmm.. not exactly.

Maybe something like "Key Lime Pie"?  )

I know most guys name their belongings after a woman's name but I was thinking Kermit .

[Photoelectric]

I mentioned earlier that I painted a Filco in a purple color and then decided to redo it in a magenta metallic color from a different brand... and here are some glamor shots.  I sent it on its way today and miss it already, as it felt/sounded great and turned out beautifully





This is polished PlastiKote Metal Flake acrylic lacquer in "Burgundy".  I love it, as it looks different depending on lighting conditions and angle: from a warm faded magenta to bluish lavender to purple.

[do_Og@n]

Mmmmmmm....purple!!! Berry nice! 

[Photoelectric]

To those who may remember my custom-mixing adventure here, I finally got around to properly polishing that cover, and here's the result in dim light of my office area.

I just have to show it off because I love that color.  It really changes dramatically depending on lighting: more of a light cyan-turquoise or more of a deeper teal-turquoise.  These are with poor lighting in my bedroom (normal typing conditions )






Updated:

[microsoft windows]

NICE PAINT JOB THERE

[Photoelectric]

NICE PAINT JOB THERE

I appreciate your comment even thought I did not pick any beige colors!!!
 

[Thimplum]

NICE PAINT JOB THERE

I appreciate your comment even thought I did not pick any beige colors!!!
 

epic fail

[Binge]

****ing photo, I want to be your neighbor.

[Photoelectric]

That would be cool--I'm a huge fan of your weird but awesome creations

[do_Og@n]

I've had a busy weekend and decided to post my attempt at some painting. Enjoy the pics!!!!

Satin White QFR case (for a coworker)


Painted SP DS tall spherical keycaps (also for a coworker)

[Photoelectric]

I've had a busy weekend and decided to post my attempt at some painting. Enjoy the (Attachment Link) pics!!!!

Satin White QFR case (for a coworker)
(Attachment Link)

Painted SP DS tall spherical keycaps (also for a coworker)
(Attachment Link)

 

[pagosElite]

If I want to make my QFS glossy white I know I would sand the case first. Then spray what brand and type of spray (metallic, acrylic, plastic), and then what do I do afterward to get it all perfect. Are there any keyboard painting guides on this forum?

[do_Og@n]

Here is a link to a good thread that has some notes. If you read through this one you will find a lot of good tips from Photoelectric.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47959.0

[pagosElite]

Here is a link to a good thread that has some notes. If you read through this one you will find a lot of good tips from Photoelectric.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47959.0

Thanks alot! One of my main questions isnt answered though. Its about doing a glossy paint. What kind of coats and polish would i use + what paints good to use for glossy looks.

[Photoelectric]

Thanks alot! One of my main questions isnt answered though. Its about doing a glossy paint. What kind of coats and polish would i use + what paints good to use for glossy looks.

I've linked a thread on the second page here, specifically about doing a high-gloss finish:
http://www.overclock.net/t/382840/guide-painting-patterns-with-spraypaint

It's a great guide.

[pagosElite]

Thanks alot! One of my main questions isnt answered though. Its about doing a glossy paint. What kind of coats and polish would i use + what paints good to use for glossy looks.

I've linked a thread on the second page here, specifically about doing a high-gloss finish:
http://www.overclock.net/t/382840/guide-painting-patterns-with-spraypaint

It's a great guide.

Thank you so much. Just one question. If i want to paint my case for example blue, and I want to add a little logo or name on it that is a different color, how would this work out?

Also, which clear coating do you recommend if I want to make it glossy?

[Photoelectric]

You can make a stencil for your logo.  Draw it on paper as an outline, cover the paper with painter's tape on the underside in smooth layers, then cut out the logo, leaving a hole in the shape of your logo.  Then you can tape this stencil to the surface you want your logo to appear on, and make sure that the stencil is flush with the surface.  Spray over the stencil in gradual thin layers.  Allow it all to dry, then remove the stencil.

You can apply a clear coat in 24 hours or so.  You can try Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Clear Gloss or Automotive Gloss.

[pagosElite]

You can make a stencil for your logo.  Draw it on paper as an outline, cover the paper with painter's tape on the underside in smooth layers, then cut out the logo, leaving a hole in the shape of your logo.  Then you can tape this stencil to the surface you want your logo to appear on, and make sure that the stencil is flush with the surface.  Spray over the stencil in gradual thin layers.  Allow it all to dry, then remove the stencil.

You can apply a clear coat in 24 hours or so.  You can try Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Clear Gloss or Automotive Gloss.

The white is clear right? So if my paint (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YQMA0I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) is blue lets say, i wouldnt need to get a blue bottle, the white would still work right? Also, do i need to use primer?

[Photoelectric]

Personally, I'd advise you to not use Krylon Fusion due to so-so results I've had with it and some questionable interaction with other paints you might layer over it.

If you have access to Home Depot stores, look at their Rust Oleum Painter's Touch X2 line.  It's the easiest paint to use (good coverage, fast drying) and already comes with a premixed primer in it to stick to plastic and many other surfaces.  You can get a clear (transparent) coat there as well from the same line.  They cost ~$4 after tax--very cheap.

Also white is not clear.  Clear = transparent = no color.

[pagosElite]

Personally, I'd advise you to not use Krylon Fusion due to so-so results I've had with it and some questionable interaction with other paints you might layer over it.

If you have access to Home Depot stores, look at their Rust Oleum Painter's Touch X2 line.  It's the easiest paint to use (good coverage, fast drying) and already comes with a premixed primer in it to stick to plastic and many other surfaces.  You can get a clear (transparent) coat there as well from the same line.  They cost ~$4 after tax--very cheap.

Also white is not clear.  Clear = transparent = no color.

Same line meaning?

[Photoelectric]

Painter's Touch line.

[pagosElite]

Painter's Touch line.

Oh ok thanks! How much do you estimate it would all cost in total (without the case).

[kaltar]

Photoelectric, You should really write down your knowledge. It's terrible trying to do things and not knowing how to do it and learning by mistakes. it takes time and money!

6 months ago I painted a keyboard (A music keyboard) and it was terrible to sand it. It had a super thick soft paint that made any sand paper garbage in a second. I tried every solvent that was recommended in the store, without success. It was out of my curiosity to try if Easy Off would take it off, and it did!
Even when I painted something and dripped, I did not sand, but removed the paint completely with Easy Off. So, all that knowledge you have should not be wasted!
I know you can fill a wiki talking about textures and types of materials to paint (and differences to paint different cases).

Congrats! 

[Tarzan]

If you want to add a label or logo, you might be able to find something pre-made at a crafts supply store.  I found some letter sets at Michael's that worked perfectly to add a "V" logo to the keyboard I painted.

One tip; after removing the stencil/letter/stick-on, you may have some ridges of paint along the edges.  I wet-sanded over the logo with some 2000 grit sandpaper, then three coats of clear, to get the effect I wanted.

You can make a stencil for your logo.  Draw it on paper as an outline, cover the paper with painter's tape on the underside in smooth layers, then cut out the logo, leaving a hole in the shape of your logo.  Then you can tape this stencil to the surface you want your logo to appear on, and make sure that the stencil is flush with the surface.  Spray over the stencil in gradual thin layers.  Allow it all to dry, then remove the stencil.

You can apply a clear coat in 24 hours or so.  You can try Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Clear Gloss or Automotive Gloss.

[Photoelectric]

Photoelectric, You should really write down your knowledge. It's terrible trying to do things and not knowing how to do it and learning by mistakes. it takes time and money!

6 months ago I painted a keyboard (A music keyboard) and it was terrible to sand it. It had a super thick soft paint that made any sand paper garbage in a second. I tried every solvent that was recommended in the store, without success. It was out of my curiosity to try if Easy Off would take it off, and it did!
Even when I painted something and dripped, I did not sand, but removed the paint completely with Easy Off. So, all that knowledge you have should not be wasted!
I know you can fill a wiki talking about textures and types of materials to paint (and differences to paint different cases).

Congrats! 

Yeah, Easy-Off is great for botched paint jobs that result in uncured soft paint under the top layer, like Ive seen Krylon's Fusion sometimes get.  I was able to sand the clear coat with 200-grit sandpaper and some of the paint underneath, then follow with a couple applications of Easy-Off and more sanding.  Too much work!  I prefer sanding acrylic or oil enamel--it sands normally in my limited experience, without the paint caking up or rolling off and gunking up sandpaper.

[Krogenar]

The black cover, on the other hand, is a different story.  The coating on it is very thin and filmy, and once you sand off some, you basically have to keep going, as it frays and peels at the edges, and you can't sand it smooth.  Only off.

Show Image

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This. This. This.

I've been sanding one of my two black QFR cases with 400-grit sandpaper, and I can say that yeah, it takes a while. Basically, I think I've got it all off, then wash off the dust, dry it, and then find more to remove. It's taken me maybe two hours over the course of 3 days to get very nearly done. Maybe a coarser grit would be better.

But thanks, Photo, for the heads up.

[Badwrench]

The black cover, on the other hand, is a different story.  The coating on it is very thin and filmy, and once you sand off some, you basically have to keep going, as it frays and peels at the edges, and you can't sand it smooth.  Only off.

Show Image

Show Image

This. This. This.

I've been sanding one of my two black QFR cases with 400-grit sandpaper, and I can say that yeah, it takes a while. Basically, I think I've got it all off, then wash off the dust, dry it, and then find more to remove. It's taken me maybe two hours over the course of 3 days to get very nearly done. Maybe a coarser grit would be better.

But thanks, Photo, for the heads up.

I found a great way to remove the coating on the black ones - steel wool.  I used 00 and it came off in about 30 mins. The key was to work from the corners. I still had to use some 400 for the tight corners, but the rest just came right off. 

[Krogenar]

I found a great way to remove the coating on the black ones - steel wool.  I used 00 and it came off in about 30 mins. The key was to work from the corners. I still had to use some 400 for the tight corners, but the rest just came right off.

Ah... very interesting! I gotta give that a try. Another question -- does the coating go into the sidewalls, or is it just the top surface?

[Photoelectric]

Good idea about steel wool.

Yes, the coating is all over

[JoanneLee]

Well, I got my new QFR case a few days ago and I went ahead and painted it today. Came out rather nicely 

Few little flaws, but other wise I'm very happy with it.

Show Image

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Looking good!
I painted my QFR a few months ago using the same brand of paint, but with a different Key-Lime



It looks a little yellow in the picture, but irl, it is kind of an inbetween of your pic and mine.

[do_Og@n]

Another busy week. Had a coworker buy a keyboard and for practice (and the price of paint) I did this for him.

Top case with hand painted rim around the orange strip.


Bottom case...had to take off the rubber feet and painted the legs white (should have blown it off before taking picture).


Spacebar with custom painted Celtic Knot design. Layered this with lacquer in hopes it will last longer.


I also painted some of his keycaps as well. They turned out alright and I tried layering them in a lacquer spray as well. Going to let them sit for a week and then we'll see how long they last. I will get a picture with all the keycaps in place once everything has time to settle.

One more thing I realized....I miss my Nikon a L T!!!

[Photoelectric]

Nice work 
Thank you both for sharing!!!

[do_Og@n]

Alright so here is everything all put on the board. All in all I'm not to happy with the results but seeing as I was painting for practically free I had to step away or else I would have taken a month on it. End result has convinced me that I need to invest in an Airbrush kit.

[rowdy]

Well, I got my new QFR case a few days ago and I went ahead and painted it today. Came out rather nicely 

Few little flaws, but other wise I'm very happy with it.

Show Image

Show Image

Looking good!
I painted my QFR a few months ago using the same brand of paint, but with a different Key-Lime

Show Image

It looks a little yellow in the picture, but irl, it is kind of an inbetween of your pic and mine.

You need a Toxic set for that!

Looks good :)

[Jokrik]

Case painted to Aluminium

[Sifo]

^ DAMN that looks good.

[do_Og@n]

Nice job jokrik....keep it up!

I've been painting a lot of keycaps recently....feel free to toss me some ideas.