Here's one I just finished building yesterday.
It's an Alps Party ANSI with blue Alps switches, Tai Hao Olivetti keycaps, and a blue-gray 3D printed Z-case from Ziptyze's recent buy.
Although I'm generally a fan of the Infinity/HHKB layout for 60% boards, I bought this ANSI plate during Alps Party with the specific intention of using one of my Tai Hao Alps sets. I've already got the Tai Hao Dolch caps on my Filco Zero, and I had the Olivetti and WoB sets just sitting around. This board gives them something to do. And I have to say, these caps feel wonderful on the blue Alps switches.
This build was pretty straightforward, as the Tai Hao keycaps accept Alps stabilizer clips, so getting this to work with the Matias stabilizer set was pretty painless. I did have to bend new wires for the spacebar and right shift, and I'm still trying to think of a way to laterally stabilize Alps spacebars that don't have a spot for the little cylindrical plunger. If we had it all to do over again, I think the plates for Alps Party should have all had cutouts for Costar stabs as well as Alps. But live and learn, right? I'll come up with something.
The Tai Hao keycaps, like Alpine Winter, are very tight fitting into the switches. Too tight, I think. So I used the same trick on these caps as I first tried on Alpine Winter, shaving down two adjacent corners of the stem.
The rectangle shape, while very secure, is much less forgiving to tiny size differences than the Cherry MX stem. So if you have a cap that's too tight, you can relieve a lot of pressure by taking a utility knife and shaving a slice off of two corners. I usually do the two rear corners because they are the easiest to get to.
Note that the cap is still not loose by any means. It's plenty tight enough for heavy use. But it's much easier and safer to pull caps with this modification. So if you consider yourself a frequent keycap puller, it's definitely worth the extra time to perform this simple mod.