Blue LED Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown or Blacks

[gir489]

I'm trying to find a mechanical keyboard that doesn't have those extra stupid gaming buttons, that has a blue LED backlighting, and either Cherry MX Reds or Blacks, preferabbly Browns, but I could live with Reds.

I went to best buy yesterday and bought a K70 with Cherry MX Reds, and it's great, except for the fact the backlight LEDs are in glaring red, and it hurts my eyes and I can see like a trailing pattern when I move my eyes over it, so I have to shut it off. For $125 + MI tax, I don't think I should've paid for something I'm just going to shut off.

There's also a red LED under the WSAD key that's glaring, and the Nums Lock LED is a bright white LED and very distracting.

I tried looking for the K70 with a blue backlight, but I guess they don't sell that version anymore, as everyone is out of stock. I saw a site selling a Ducky keyboard with Cherry MX Browns and a blue backlight, but they wanted $150 + shipping for the model that had a number pad.

EDIT: Oh, just one tidbit, I guess this is relevant. I've been using an IBM Model M since I can remember. The MFR date on it is April 1988, and it still works. It's an amazing keyboard, and I love it. But my neighbors do not. They reported it as "robots having sex." So, I can't use it anymore. Kinda sucks, since I really love that keyboard. I mean, who isn't a fan of buckling spring? So now I have to get a quieter keyboard, and I'm not getting those mushy BS caps. I had a G110, and it broke within a year because I type really hard, and they can't withstand the force and abuse I dish out to my keyboard.

[Defect]

Btw Blue LED will affect your eyes much more than red.

But, as far as backlit KBs go it's very easy to suggest ducky.

[gir489]

Btw Blue LED will affect your eyes much more than red.

But, as far as backlit KBs go it's very easy to suggest ducky.

I noticed that every single key has its own LED, which could be a problem since the G110 is using an ambient style lighting, but the G110 has red on it, and I see the same ghosting/trailing pattern, but when I switch it to blue, I do not. So even if they do hurt my eyes, it'd be a color I'm OK with looking at.

[Oobly]

Well there's this: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=867

Great quality board with versatile and adjustable blue LED backlighting (can light up different zones and adjust brightness) and Brown switches. I don't think you'll find a better backlit board for the price.

[gir489]

Duckys do look amazing, and it's pretty hard to mess up installing an MX switch, you're just getting a wafer board with MX switches with plastic caps on it.
So you're basically just paying for cosmetics.

What I still don't understand between browns and blacks, is that blacks are listed as linear switches on an article I was reading, but browns are listed as a tactile switch.

I love the 2 stage click of the IBM Model M, where the first stage is depression, then the second stage is the buckling spring. Would the browns give that without the noise?

The MX Reds I have now are kinda ****ty, they just go straight down, and there's nothing wrong with it, it just doesn't feel mechanical.

[Oobly]

Well, yes... kind of. Check these out for reference: http://www.keyboardlover.com/switchanimations.php

Reds and Blacks are linear, with no bump at all. Browns have a tactile bump which is quite subtle. Clears have a bigger bump and stronger springs and would feel more like a buckling spring. Blues have a little piece which makes a click when the switch activates. Greens are like Blues, but with heavier springs. So either Clears or Greens will feel most like buckling spring, but not quite the same.

I like Browns and modified Clears (with lighter springs) since I like the tactile bump and light switches and I don't like the click sound of the Blues and Greens. Blues and Greens also have something called hysteresis, meaning the reset point is higher than the activation point, so you have to lift your finger higher before pressing again if you want the switch to register separate keypresses.

[gir489]

I had a Compaq keyboard that had a spacebar with a MX Clear once, it was the worst piece of garbage keyboard I ever owned. But at the time, I had 5 comuters (1995 BAWLIN) and only one IBM Model M, so I had to make do with the Model M on my P2 computer, while the 3.1 and DOS boxes had whatever keyboard they came with.

The article you referenced was the article I was talking about which referred to the blacks as linear and browns as tactile.

What I didn't like, was that sometimes the side springs on the key would get caught and not retract, causing the key to get stuck. I think that was just a MFR problem, but I noticed when I removed the key, the switch was slow to come back up aswell. So I think it was just a ****storm of mess that caused me to have a bad experience on the clears.

I think I'll order the ducky with brown switches and blue LEDs and it looks like a clean keyboard with no gaming crap attached to it. But it sucks that I can't try it before buying it, like in the store, I'm pretty much just going off a hope and a prayer that the switches don't suck.

[Defect]

I would never call browns tactile but that's just from my experience with various switches.  I would say rounded small bump.  Opinions will differ.  I don't think anyone can really comment on browns if they haven't tried all mx switches imo.

Some people may recommend mx green (same as blue with black spring) due to your experience with BS.  Personally,  BS ruined mx clicks to me.  Once you've used BS the blues and greens are just too mechanically flawed/chippy sounding/unrefined compared to BS.

[gir489]

From looking at the side view of the brown, providing the small bump would emulate the Model M's 2 stage feel, without the noise.

To me, the whole keyboard experience is about the feel. The noise is usually drowned out by my music or just the headphones in general.

[Defect]

From looking at the side view of the brown, providing the small bump would emulate the Model M's 2 stage feel, without the noise.

Well I've only got the unicomp BS.  And if it's anything at all like Model M's it's hard to recommend browns to another BS lover but that's what's beautiful about these switches.  You may find browns are your favorite and I'm talking outta my bottom.  These are just the opinions of a random forum lurker.  Best of luck

Edit: maybe I forgot to mention but clears are way way more tactile than browns.  People often spring swap these though.  Personally I love both 62g lubed clears and stock clears.  Depends on mood and task

[xuanwumen]

keycool blue backlit cherry mx brown.. Rigid quality and cost effective.

[gir489]

keycool blue backlit cherry mx brown.. Rigid quality and cost effective.

I looked at those before, they don't have a number pad. That's a deal breaker for me.

[CPTBadAss]

I suggest a Ducky Shine 3 from Mechanicalkeyboards.com.

[gir489]

I suggest a Ducky Shine 3 from Mechanicalkeyboards.com.

What's the difference between the shine 3 and zero shine? The zero shine is less expensive and has a numberpad.

[kohi]

I suggest a Ducky Shine 3 from Mechanicalkeyboards.com.

What's the difference between the shine 3 and zero shine? The zero shine is less expensive and has a numberpad.

the only things I can think of are the difference in lighting modes and I'm guessing the shine III has a little bit better build quality - but it probably isn't that noticeable. I can't say, cause I've only owned the shine III... lol @ "robots having sex"

[gir489]

One of the things I noticed about Ducky keyboards, is they don't have nums lock/ scroll lock/ caps lock indiciator LEDs. They just use the LED lighting beneath the keys.

Is there a way to turn that off? I'd rather not desolder the Nums Lock LED.

[Grendel]

Duckys do look amazing, and it's pretty hard to mess up installing an MX switch, you're just getting a wafer board with MX switches with plastic caps on it.
So you're basically just paying for cosmetics.

The stroboscopic effects from Ducky's are as bad or even worse than the K70. If you want a HQ board w/ non-flickering backlights your options are very limited, it's either a Deck Legend (may be hard to find) or a WASD Code. Coming from BS you may like MX Green switches (I know I do). While clicky, they are quieter than a BS board.

[rowdy]

Another vote for Ducky, although if you like Model M, then a keyboard with MX greens would probably be closest.

You could also consider the Shine Zero with blue backlighting - apparently that blue is softer than the blue in the Shine 3.

[gir489]

Another vote for Ducky, although if you like Model M, then a keyboard with MX greens would probably be closest.

You could also consider the Shine Zero with blue backlighting - apparently that blue is softer than the blue in the Shine 3.

One thing I notice with the buckling spring keyboards when playing games, vs playing with the MX Red, is that the reds give a more satisfying quicker response, where as with the buckling spring you get that immediate no resistance press reaction. The downside, is that it sucks massive wieners to type with. I typo more with this keyboard than I have on any other keyboard I've owned. If you just barely press another key with your finger, it registers.

Duckys do look amazing, and it's pretty hard to mess up installing an MX switch, you're just getting a wafer board with MX switches with plastic caps on it.
So you're basically just paying for cosmetics.

The stroboscopic effects from Ducky's are as bad or even worse than the K70. If you want a HQ board w/ non-flickering backlights your options are very limited, it's either a Deck Legend (may be hard to find) or a WASD Code. Coming from BS you may like MX Green switches (I know I do). While clicky, they are quieter than a BS board.

I'm hoping that using blue LEDs will fix that issue, as I don't see the trailing with the G110's blue LEDs, but I do see it on the G110's red LEDs.

[rowdy]

Another vote for Ducky, although if you like Model M, then a keyboard with MX greens would probably be closest.

You could also consider the Shine Zero with blue backlighting - apparently that blue is softer than the blue in the Shine 3.

One thing I notice with the buckling spring keyboards when playing games, vs playing with the MX Red, is that the reds give a more satisfying quicker response, where as with the buckling spring you get that immediate no resistance press reaction. The downside, is that it sucks massive wieners to type with. I typo more with this keyboard than I have on any other keyboard I've owned. If you just barely press another key with your finger, it registers.

MX blacks or greens help with this.

[Oobly]

Another vote for Ducky, although if you like Model M, then a keyboard with MX greens would probably be closest.

You could also consider the Shine Zero with blue backlighting - apparently that blue is softer than the blue in the Shine 3.

One thing I notice with the buckling spring keyboards when playing games, vs playing with the MX Red, is that the reds give a more satisfying quicker response, where as with the buckling spring you get that immediate no resistance press reaction. The downside, is that it sucks massive wieners to type with. I typo more with this keyboard than I have on any other keyboard I've owned. If you just barely press another key with your finger, it registers.

MX blacks or greens help with this.

Or Browns or Clears or actually any other switch than Reds.

[gir489]

Another vote for Ducky, although if you like Model M, then a keyboard with MX greens would probably be closest.

You could also consider the Shine Zero with blue backlighting - apparently that blue is softer than the blue in the Shine 3.

One thing I notice with the buckling spring keyboards when playing games, vs playing with the MX Red, is that the reds give a more satisfying quicker response, where as with the buckling spring you get that immediate no resistance press reaction. The downside, is that it sucks massive wieners to type with. I typo more with this keyboard than I have on any other keyboard I've owned. If you just barely press another key with your finger, it registers.

MX blacks or greens help with this.

Or Browns or Clears or actually any other switch than Reds.

I went with the keyboard you posted first, it seems legit, and I haven't seen anything negative about Ducky keyboards.

I may end up keeping both the K70 and the Ducky, because I like the K70 for gaming, but it sucks for typing.

I haven't seen any Ducky or Corsair with the MX Clears. So the only option I'd see for getting a heavier switch would be getting Greens, but then why would I get greens, when I have my buckling spring? If I want the noise, I got the Model M.

Would it be possible to swap the browns with a heavier spring?

[gir489]

I got the Ducky Zero Shine today, with Cherry MX Browns and blue LEDs, and all my problems with the K70 have been fixed with this.

The Blue LEDs, as I predicted do not cause the ghosting, the browns provide that feedback of when I'm pressing a key to help figure out what combination of key presses is causing typos, as you can actually feel the key going down without the noise that's usually associated with mechanical keys.

I'm going to return the K70, it's completely inferior to the Ducky.

The only problem I have with it is the Nums lock LED, which if I have to, I'll desolder, but for the moment, I just have a piece of tape over it. when I want to have the LEDs off but still have numslock on.

[rowdy]

Thanks for the update.

I understand that the Shine Zero does have limited backlighting options compared to the Shine 3, which probably requires a simpler controller thus reducing cost.

[gir489]

I like how they set it up with the Fn key. I've always liked the Fn key on laptops, I don't know why desktop keyboards never used them. It allows you to have dual function to a single key, while increasing functionality without having to increase your key numbers.

The lowest brightness setting is still pretty glaring in the dark, but it's a much more pleasant color now, and there isn't an ominous red glow coming from a WASD key on the top of the Ducky like there was with the K70.

I'm still looking and hoping there's a software way to turn off the Numslock Key LED while I have the LEDs off. EDIT: Looked at the instruction manual, and there is not. Only the keys I have found already through trial and error were documented in the instruction manual.

If I have them off, the Numslock key is in full glow and it's very annoying and shines through the black electrical tape I have over the LED.

[rowdy]

Maybe you could replace just that keycap with a non-transparent one.

[gir489]

Maybe you could replace just that keycap with a non-transparent one.

I thought of that, but then there would still be glow coming out of the bottom of the cap.

I might take the PCB out, and figure out a way to ground all the LEDs when I want it off, and then wire all the LEDs on when I want them on, and maybe use potentiometer to control the light so I can get it exactly as bright as I want it.

[genkidama]

Maybe you could replace just that keycap with a non-transparent one.

I thought of that, but then there would still be glow coming out of the bottom of the cap.

I might take the PCB out, and figure out a way to ground all the LEDs when I want it off, and then wire all the LEDs on when I want them on, and maybe use potentiometer to control the light so I can get it exactly as bright as I want it.

I own a Shine 3 and I switched my ESC keycap with one I got from BlueBär and you won't see LED glow at the bottom of the cap. Especially because there are other keycaps around it compared to the ESC cap where I don't really notice the glow at the brightest level.
I would try it out before I'd solder the board, just to make sure not to get things broken. I don't know how experienced you are with soldering and stuff. So it's just precautionary from my side.

"robots having sex."  )

[gir489]

Maybe you could replace just that keycap with a non-transparent one.

I thought of that, but then there would still be glow coming out of the bottom of the cap.

I might take the PCB out, and figure out a way to ground all the LEDs when I want it off, and then wire all the LEDs on when I want them on, and maybe use potentiometer to control the light so I can get it exactly as bright as I want it.

I own a Shine 3 and I switched my ESC keycap with one I got from BlueBär and you won't see LED glow at the bottom of the cap. Especially because there are other keycaps around it compared to the ESC cap where I don't really notice the glow at the brightest level.
I would try it out before I'd solder the board, just to make sure not to get things broken. I don't know how experienced you are with soldering and stuff. So it's just precautionary from my side.

"robots having sex."  )

I've been soldering micro circuitry since I was 8, and I ran the soldering department of a repair shop in Maryland for about 4 years, overseeing the BGA reflow station and reballing station. I also replaced various surface mount chips, like FPGA, TSOP and NAND chips on XBOXs and 3DSs.

I can do the surface mount soldering, but the biggest problem I have with it, is that LED would be gone forever. I'd like to be able to just switch between all the LEDs on, and all the LEDs off. Including Caps Lock, but in order to have that LED on, I need to have Caps Lock on, which I've disabled in Windows. To do the potentiometer and relay switch idea, would require a lot of PCB hacitry and software bypassing.

[gir489]

I noticed that after a couple of days of typing on it, there's a very subtle ping noise the spring makes as it retracts. Is there a way to silence it? It's not a deal breaker on the browns, but it's definitely annoying. I can hear it through the headphones.

[gir489]

Any help with the pinging noise? It happens on all the keys and it's very annoying. Is it a defect?

[Oobly]

It's usually noticed more on Filco boards, but AFAIK it's the springs themselves resonating when the key is released. Lubing the springs (actually the pillar the spring goes on inside the switch) could help, but it requires desoldering the switches to open them up.

[gir489]

It's usually noticed more on Filco boards, but AFAIK it's the springs themselves resonating when the key is released. Lubing the springs (actually the pillar the spring goes on inside the switch) could help, but it requires desoldering the switches to open them up.

I didn't hear it in the video from the manufacture. It's the exact same model and switch type.

[gir489]

I made a video of what the ping sounds like, as per requested by the reseller:

The whole keyboard pings. You don't even have to touch it to cause the ping.

I've had to go back to the Model M, because if I'm going to deal with a pingy keyboard, I might as well use one that's a buckling spring, not a MX Brown. I tried to accommodate my neighbors, but it didn't work out. So for now, they can sit and spin.