Help replacing backlight on razer bwidow 2013

[prawnflakes]

Hey all,

I'm not sure where this should go (here felt like the right place). I just recently painted my razer blackwidow ultimate 2013 (I regret my purchase) and wanted to put some new keycaps on it. My options were blank keycaps of different colors, or clear keycaps I would prefer clear keycaps, but if I get them, I won't be able to have my desired colour scheme. To resolve this, I thought that the best course of action would be to replace the LEDs to fit my colours! The other day I bought myself a 3mm LED and solder wick, and experimented with the light up razer logo. I screwed it up big time I pulled out the little eyelet thing that is inset into the PCB. I don't mind so much because it's just a logo. When I tried to unsolder it, the solder didn't really melt, I had to sort of scrape it off (I assume it's just filth tier solder) I almost tried to add a backlight to one of the keys which doesn't have one (there is room for it) and gave up when I found the solder to be the same (not sure what I expected ). So basically, I just wanted some help with how to replace the green backlights with my own flavour. If there are any guides I have missed then please point the way, or any general advice would be much appreciated!

TL;DR
How 2 change backlight LEDs on mech keyboard without stuffing it up.

Cheers,
Calum

[rowdy]

Welcome to Geekhack!

Given your experience practicing on a non-critical part of your keyboard, do you think it would be a good idea to repeat that across the board?

Maybe a better solution would be to get a different keyboard with the colour LEDs you want.  A Ducky, for instance?

[prawnflakes]

I would like to, but it's not an option. Could it be that my soldering iron just isn't good enough (it's some really old weller) and the LEDs I would like are in a certain pattern (RGB Keyboards could be an option but are expensive)

[Melvang]

I would like to, but it's not an option. Could it be that my soldering iron just isn't good enough (it's some really old weller) and the LEDs I would like are in a certain pattern (RGB Keyboards could be an option but are expensive)

Chances are the iron just wasn't hot enough.  Any solder in manufactured parts these days is lead free solder which require a significant amount more heat to melt than leaded solder.  My suggestion is to buy a learn to solder kit that just has the parts, get some 63/37 flux core solder, and have your way with it.  When you get it built up desolder it.  Also get an authentic Edsyn sold-a-pult.  These things are worth their weight in gold when it comes to desoldering.  Also a tip for desoldering anything lead free.  Go through every joint and add leaded solder to the joint before attempting to desolder.  It makes it tons easier to remove.

[prawnflakes]

Thanks a bunch, that's just the advice I needed! When I get back home I'll go out and get myself a new iron. Should I get a Gas or electric iron.

[Melvang]

Do NOT get gas.  Go for electric.  And you will want a chisel tip around 2mm wide or so.  Check the top post in the Living Soldering thread under Making Stuff Together.  It should be stickied there.

[prawnflakes]

So I thought of one more thing. Seeing as the solder already on the boar is lead free should I also get some lead free solder to attach the new LEDs?

[Melvang]

No, that stuff is a royal pain to work with.  Mostly due to the fact that it does require more heat, so this causes it to be much easier to lift pads.  You will want 63/37.  Lead free is only used to maintain RoHS compliance.