Author Topic: Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick  (Read 25051 times)

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Offline nanu

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #50 on: Sun, 30 January 2011, 19:50:47 »
Quote from: JelinaNU;287501
I remember seeing a post from one of the custom stick builders showcasing their new acrylic or plastic cases, all transparent or translucent and sold individually as a kit. Where was that? It may not be at all what you're after, but I can try to track the thread down again if it is.


arthong's DIY custom acrylic cases? I too saw it but maybe it was a site post and not a forum post...

Offline NamelessPFG

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #51 on: Mon, 31 January 2011, 11:36:51 »
I've seen those cases before. Too short for Western buttons, as usual.

If he's willing to make a lengthened version, I'd consider it.

Offline fartbutt

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #52 on: Thu, 03 February 2011, 13:07:36 »
You can fit iL (iL is preferred over happ these days) PSL buttons into the SE case, but not PSL-L without putting spacers in on the bottom panel.

« Last Edit: Thu, 03 February 2011, 13:11:20 by fartbutt »

Offline NamelessPFG

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #53 on: Thu, 03 February 2011, 15:12:27 »
That's what I've heard, but there's a problem.

I can't find iL PSL buttons for sale anywhere. All I find are the PSL-L variety that need the spacers, Happ and iL alike.

Where do people buy them?

Offline fartbutt

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #54 on: Sat, 05 February 2011, 15:10:52 »
You might want to track kowal down on byoac forums or srk and ask him maybe. He knows all about this stuff

Offline NamelessPFG

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #55 on: Wed, 09 February 2011, 17:49:57 »
Now that I got my Mayflash Classic Controller USB adapter today and verified that it worked fine with my TvC sticks, I fired up some GGXX #Reload.

My execution feels all wrong now-not that it was anything special with a pad. Perhaps this is to be expected since the muscle memory isn't there.

But I can't even double-tap to dash that easily. These JLF-style sticks are too damn loose, as I feared. Might have to grab a couple of LS-56s...though looking at the actuator, if someone were to fabricate a thicker one, that would just as easily do the trick. (But I don't think anyone has, if only because people seem to LIKE that JLF looseness.)

Offline nanu

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #56 on: Wed, 09 February 2011, 18:44:57 »
SoulHunter uses heat shrink tubing to lower the throw of his stick. http://geekhack.org/showpost.php?p=189866&postcount=25

Offline RoboKrikit

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #57 on: Wed, 09 February 2011, 20:11:53 »
Quote from: NamelessPFG;292536
My execution feels all wrong now-not that it was anything special with a pad. Perhaps this is to be expected since the muscle memory isn't there.

But I can't even double-tap to dash that easily. These JLF-style sticks are too damn loose, as I feared. Might have to grab a couple of LS-56s...though looking at the actuator, if someone were to fabricate a thicker one, that would just as easily do the trick. (But I don't think anyone has, if only because people seem to LIKE that JLF looseness.)

You want the stick to adjust to you, when it is you that must adjust to the stick.



It is totally normal to take a while to get used to using a stick (in general or a specific one).  The JLF definitely double taps just fine.


(That could be an LS-32, hard to tell.  Doesn't really matter.)

If you are coming from pad it is typical to take weeks or months to get back to the level of play you are used to.  If you're more familiar with Happ sticks, it's still very different since you are using mostly your fingers and hand and very little arm movement compared to old US cabs.

You might like an LS-32 though.  The LS-56 is REALLY tight.  If you do get one, definitely get the bat top and the octo gate for it.  It might be the only stick that has a decent octo gate.  I personally think the LS-56 is too tight for fighting games because it demands too much precision from the user, even if the feel is nice.  I've recommended it to several people who didn't want to or couldn't get used to Japanese-style sticks (coming from Happ), and it did work out for a few of them.

Note that the looser sticks like the JLF (and LS-32) actually offer more precision than 'tight' sticks.  The tight feel may be nice, but all of the actuators are much closer to each other, and it becomes easier to enter accidental inputs, especially in gameplay with higher execution requirements.
Lovely day for a GUINNESS

Offline NamelessPFG

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #58 on: Wed, 09 February 2011, 22:37:09 »
After a few more minutes of GGXX #Reload, some things set in.

-Rapid movement still feels rather weird at the moment. But circle motions actually work pretty well, once you get the hang of the actuation zones. I noticed problems with diagonal jumping, so I tried to compensate for that...perhaps a bit too much. A double-QCF move attempt kept giving me a DP move. The trick? Move the stick just a bit higher so it's resting at 6 (right) when I hit the button, not 3 (down-right). I never did quite notice this 'til I started to listen carefully for the distinct microswitch clicks.

-The angle of my arm to the stick affects the feel a lot. Come to think of it, the general ergonomics of how I'm holding the stick in the first place and how it's positioned do seem to have a drastic effect on the feel when trying to pull off those motions.

Speaking of octo-gates, word is that what makes the JLF and the LS-56 so different in that regard is that the former actually increases the stick's travel relative to the square gate, while the latter restricts it instead. Is that true?

I'm also still left wondering why there aren't different actuator bits for JLFs and their clones. If people are resorting to electrical tape and heatshrink tubing, why not offer multiple actuators like there are multiple restrictor gates? At the very least, a JLF could be tightened up like an LS-56, but the LS-56 can't be made all loose like a JLF.

As for the LS-32...I'm not sure. It's more common, but I might like an octogonal gate better...yet I manage with square-gated Neo-Geo CD pads when playing shmups on said console. Perhaps it depends on what's too loose, what's too tight, and what's just right, which isn't easy to tell without actually getting a hands-on evaluation.

(Speaking of which: Why isn't there a sink list for these things? Something like the Switch Try Board, except they're arcade joysticks!)

Offline kill will

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #59 on: Wed, 09 February 2011, 22:43:37 »
this isnt a joystick forum.  i think for the best info look into shoryuken.com ... look into older topics as SF4 brought A LOT of bs.  

All the sticks are great, but I would stick to JLF as it seems to be the most accepted stick.
I <3 BS

Offline RoboKrikit

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #60 on: Thu, 10 February 2011, 01:22:33 »
Quote from: NamelessPFG;292688
Speaking of octo-gates, word is that what makes the JLF and the LS-56 so different in that regard is that the former actually increases the stick's travel relative to the square gate, while the latter restricts it instead. Is that true?

Yes, that is true.  Some people like the JLF octo, but it does increase the throw yet further in the cardinal directions.

Toodles' GT-C restrictor (circular JLF gate) is available now.  I helped test this out and it is pretty much the sweet spot for JLF circle gates without changing the actuator size.  I like the stock JLF best, but this turned out pretty decent.  I think it might be a little better with a slightly larger actuator to help out with diagonals.  The throw is still pretty far, but tightening it up any more makes the diagonals too difficult to hit.

Quote from: NamelessPFG;292688
I'm also still left wondering why there aren't different actuator bits for JLFs and their clones. If people are resorting to electrical tape and heatshrink tubing, why not offer multiple actuators like there are multiple restrictor gates? At the very least, a JLF could be tightened up like an LS-56, but the LS-56 can't be made all loose like a JLF.

Sanwa's customers are primarily Japanese arcades and peripheral manufacturers.  If you make big enough orders they can do things like special colors and whatnot (Per@akihabarashop has done this), but doing a new mold for a handful of home users not likely to happen.  It'd have to be someone closer to the community willing to make an investment, like Toodles did with the GT-C.  I actually asked him about a larger actuator to pair with the GT-C, but the expense of the GT-C itself was too much to consider making another part.  So yeah, buy one.  :D
Lovely day for a GUINNESS

Offline NamelessPFG

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #61 on: Sun, 20 February 2011, 16:27:35 »
I decided to do the crude "electrical tape around the actuator" mod, and I think I've found a bit of a sweet spot. Right now, it handles like I would imagine an LS-32 to feel. Still a bit loose around center, but tight enough to where I can more comfortably pull off circular motions and double-tap. I actually loosened it up some because tightening it to the point I would imagine an LS-56 to be like ended up with the switches staying stuck unless I carefully centered the stick. (I'd still like a professionally-made actuator, but I lack the tools and skills.)

I've gotta grab a GT-Y or two, though, just to experiment further with actuator tweaks. It might work out better with a JLF + GT-Y gate + enlarged actuator than an LS-32 or LS-56 for all I know.

Perhaps I should stop playing fighting games for a while and use it with some shmups. Too bad I haven't installed MC Cthulhu boards in them yet, so any stick time with Radiant Silvergun will have to be through SSF.

Offline Kelsin

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #62 on: Sat, 05 March 2011, 10:30:11 »
Just wanted to add here that sometimes you can find collector's editions of games laying around in Best Buy's and GameStop's that include Hori sticks that could easily be used for parts. Just the other day I bought Tekken6 CE for $30 bucks brand new from Best Buy. Brand new Hori stick for $30 is great :)

Offline fartbutt

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #63 on: Tue, 08 March 2011, 11:20:00 »
The cheaper hori sticks tend to be a ***** to mod though - they are very shallow.

Offline Carefoot

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #64 on: Thu, 10 March 2011, 11:42:15 »
Quote from: fartbutt;307686
The cheaper hori sticks tend to be a ***** to mod though - they are very shallow.


...Well it already arrived I must use it XD
* - Black "Otaku" HHKB Professional 2
* - Filco Neo Multifinger Touch Pad
* - AKG701 headphones
* - Steelseries [Rubberized/Raw] Sensei

Offline slueth

  • Posts: 577
Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #65 on: Tue, 29 March 2011, 12:24:21 »
Sigh, I think I am going to want a arcade stick too.  Been playing lots of MVC3 and just preordered mk9.  Tried to get super street fighter 4 but gamestop didn't have it.  Didn't find any at the pawn stores(only old games no one plays), so I might order from Amazon.

Been thinking of making the case out of plastics.  Going to have to create a plan and go to tap's plastic to get them to cut the plastics for me.  Get me a 8 button layout with 3 buttons on the top.  One for ps home and start and a select.  Maybe a slide out bottom so I can close it and also slide it out to repair/mod it.  Going to use sanwa joystick and buttons with a pcb from lizardlick.com(Toodles Cthulhu for Multi-Console).  Maybe buy an Octagonal Restrictor Plate.

Not sure what artwork to place on it but maybe a clear plexiglas on top and slide the art underneath.

Offline Carefoot

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Brainstorm: Building an arcade stick
« Reply #66 on: Tue, 05 April 2011, 19:14:52 »
Quote from: slueth;320770
Sigh, I think I am going to want a arcade stick too.  Been playing lots of MVC3 and just preordered mk9.  Tried to get super street fighter 4 but gamestop didn't have it.  Didn't find any at the pawn stores(only old games no one plays), so I might order from Amazon.

Been thinking of making the case out of plastics.  Going to have to create a plan and go to tap's plastic to get them to cut the plastics for me.  Get me a 8 button layout with 3 buttons on the top.  One for ps home and start and a select.  Maybe a slide out bottom so I can close it and also slide it out to repair/mod it.  Going to use sanwa joystick and buttons with a pcb from lizardlick.com(Toodles Cthulhu for Multi-Console).  Maybe buy an Octagonal Restrictor Plate.

Not sure what artwork to place on it but maybe a clear plexiglas on top and slide the art underneath.


http://shoryuken.com/f177/arts-arcade-stick-plexiglass-covers-tekcase-other-updates-post-3447-a-183523/

I i have no idea how to use a Cthulhu I was planning on gutting my EX2 hori for its guts and use sanwa buttons with jlf, I ordered a round gate for my JLF I will also need a plexy mounting plate too boot.
* - Black "Otaku" HHKB Professional 2
* - Filco Neo Multifinger Touch Pad
* - AKG701 headphones
* - Steelseries [Rubberized/Raw] Sensei