Recommendations on a 60% Keyboard

[dandanflake]

Hi, I'm currently looking for a good 60% keyboard mechanical keyboard in MX Greens. Currently the one I'm considering is the Ducky Mini, although I'm a little worried about that choice as I've heard several reports that at least the Blue key switches feel somewhat mushy and sticky. I've also heard good things about the Vortex Poker which is another consideration. I'm just wondering what other recommendations I can get.

[exanile_tabasco]

Hi, I'm currently looking for a good 60% keyboard mechanical keyboard in MX Greens. Currently the one I'm considering is the Ducky Mini, although I'm a little worried about that choice as I've heard several reports that at least the Blue key switches feel somewhat mushy and sticky. I've also heard good things about the Vortex Poker which is another consideration. I'm just wondering what other recommendations I can get.

Are you looking for a non-custom 60% keyboard that is "standard" in size and layout? If so, then the Pok3r will be a no-brainer.

I don't know who told you that Blues on the Ducky Mini feel mushy, but two of my keys are now sticky (and not due to me spilling liquids over it). The Ducky Mini is the land of proprietary, so if that is something that bothers you then you should keep that in mind.

The Ducky Mini also has a plastic case while the Pok3r has an aluminum case (albeit cast).

[klennkellon]

KBParadise V60's are pretty nice, not too expensive, huge variety of switch types (MX Clears, Gateron, ALPS/Matias to the humble MX Blue.



They can be found at www.mechanicalkeyboards.com

I'd recommend  trying Matias Click switches, really fun to type on.

[G-Dubs]

KBParadise V60's are pretty nice, not too expensive, huge variety of switch types (MX Clears, Gateron, ALPS/Matias to the humble MX Blue.



They can be found at www.mechanicalkeyboards.com

I'd recommend  trying Matias Click switches, really fun to type on.

Seconded. I love my V60s.

I don't know if there's that much of a difference in build quality between Pok3r and KBP boards, but it seems like from what I've seen that the KBP are just a little bit cheaper in general. On the other hand, if you're considering Matias, the V60 is the only one I've seen at its price point.

[dandanflake]

Are you looking for a non-custom 60% keyboard that is "standard" in size and layout? If so, then the Pok3r will be a no-brainer.

I don't know who told you that Blues on the Ducky Mini feel mushy, but two of my keys are now sticky (and not due to me spilling liquids over it). The Ducky Mini is the land of proprietary, so if that is something that bothers you then you should keep that in mind.

The Ducky Mini also has a plastic case while the Pok3r has an aluminum case (albeit cast).

On a Linus Tech Tips review they said the blues felt kind of sticky and mushy, as well as a few Amazon reviews. I don't know how true that is though. And the mini is plastic? I thought that was a metal frame?

[dandanflake]

KBParadise V60's are pretty nice, not too expensive, huge variety of switch types (MX Clears, Gateron, ALPS/Matias to the humble MX Blue.



They can be found at www.mechanicalkeyboards.com

I'd recommend  trying Matias Click switches, really fun to type on.

Seconded. I love my V60s.

I don't know if there's that much of a difference in build quality between Pok3r and KBP boards, but it seems like from what I've seen that the KBP are just a little bit cheaper in general. On the other hand, if you're considering Matias, the V60 is the only one I've seen at its price point.

I've watched some reviews on the V60 and compared to the Poker 3 I'm not as impressed unfortunately. Although I would love to try Matias switches. Also I was looking at Gons Keyboards http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/ and damn those are some nice looking keyboards. They're quite a bit more than I want to spend though.

[spanyam]

I've watched some reviews on the V60 and compared to the Poker 3 I'm not as impressed unfortunately. Although I would love to try Matias switches. Also I was looking at Gons Keyboards http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/ and damn those are some nice looking keyboards. They're quite a bit more than I want to spend though.

The V60 definitely has its limitations when compared to the Pok3r, but if you're interested in Matias Switches, V60 is the cheapest way to get in. I decided to go for one with Matias Quiet Linears, and my god I love them. Another option for Matias switches, if you don't mind second hand, is to look at the GH classifieds or /r/mechmarket, as boards with Matias switches tend to pop up fairly often.

If this happens to be your first 60%, I'd suggest getting a cheaper pre-built board first before you go for a more expensive custom like the GON. The form factor is definitely different, and you'll want to know if it's right for you before spending more. Even safer if you get it from a place like Amazon that has a no hassle return policy.

[xtrafrood]

Personally, I have the V60 Matias quiet switch on my keyboard bucket list. 

[exanile_tabasco]

Are you looking for a non-custom 60% keyboard that is "standard" in size and layout? If so, then the Pok3r will be a no-brainer.

I don't know who told you that Blues on the Ducky Mini feel mushy, but two of my keys are now sticky (and not due to me spilling liquids over it). The Ducky Mini is the land of proprietary, so if that is something that bothers you then you should keep that in mind.

The Ducky Mini also has a plastic case while the Pok3r has an aluminum case (albeit cast).

On a Linus Tech Tips review they said the blues felt kind of sticky and mushy, as well as a few Amazon reviews. I don't know how true that is though. And the mini is plastic? I thought that was a metal frame?

Frame =/= case

The Mini indeed has an aluminum frame. But the aluminum merely comprises two thin layers surrounding the keyboard itself. It creates a huge bezel for a 60% and the bezel isn't even primarily aluminum (Ducky will tell you all about the "sandwich" that makes up the bezel).

The PCB / switches / plate reside inside a cheap, thin plastic case. I've sawed the bezel off my Ducky Mini to make it more of a true 60% and the case is truly a generic, flimsy disappointment.  There is only one commendable aspect of the Ducky Mini, which is that the switches are mounted very tightly to the plate, allowing for no wobble at all.

The V60 is a better choice than the Mini, as is the Pok3r. Both V60 and Pok3r have a PCB/plate that can be dropped into any "60% compatible case". The Ducky Mini cannot. Its corners are not rounded in the slightest and its screw mounting locations on both the PCB and plate are completely off.


Forgot to add, if you choose to go the Matias route for the V60, you will lose compatibility with 60% cases due to the difference of something like 1 screw.

[dandanflake]

Are you looking for a non-custom 60% keyboard that is "standard" in size and layout? If so, then the Pok3r will be a no-brainer.

I don't know who told you that Blues on the Ducky Mini feel mushy, but two of my keys are now sticky (and not due to me spilling liquids over it). The Ducky Mini is the land of proprietary, so if that is something that bothers you then you should keep that in mind.

The Ducky Mini also has a plastic case while the Pok3r has an aluminum case (albeit cast).

Wow I don't know that about the Ducky Mini. Are all of their products like that? I've always looked at them as a fantastic company. Also I'm looking at the back lit Vortex Pokers. How is the back lit version compared to the non back lit version? I know sometimes the back lighting can cause issues with keycaps and such.

On a Linus Tech Tips review they said the blues felt kind of sticky and mushy, as well as a few Amazon reviews. I don't know how true that is though. And the mini is plastic? I thought that was a metal frame?

Frame =/= case

The Mini indeed has an aluminum frame. But the aluminum merely comprises two thin layers surrounding the keyboard itself. It creates a huge bezel for a 60% and the bezel isn't even primarily aluminum (Ducky will tell you all about the "sandwich" that makes up the bezel).

The PCB / switches / plate reside inside a cheap, thin plastic case. I've sawed the bezel off my Ducky Mini to make it more of a true 60% and the case is truly a generic, flimsy disappointment.  There is only one commendable aspect of the Ducky Mini, which is that the switches are mounted very tightly to the plate, allowing for no wobble at all.

The V60 is a better choice than the Mini, as is the Pok3r. Both V60 and Pok3r have a PCB/plate that can be dropped into any "60% compatible case". The Ducky Mini cannot. Its corners are not rounded in the slightest and its screw mounting locations on both the PCB and plate are completely off.


Forgot to add, if you choose to go the Matias route for the V60, you will lose compatibility with 60% cases due to the difference of something like 1 screw.

[xtrafrood]

Are you looking for a non-custom 60% keyboard that is "standard" in size and layout? If so, then the Pok3r will be a no-brainer.

I don't know who told you that Blues on the Ducky Mini feel mushy, but two of my keys are now sticky (and not due to me spilling liquids over it). The Ducky Mini is the land of proprietary, so if that is something that bothers you then you should keep that in mind.

The Ducky Mini also has a plastic case while the Pok3r has an aluminum case (albeit cast).

Wow I don't know that about the Ducky Mini. Are all of their products like that? I've always looked at them as a fantastic company. Also I'm looking at the back lit Vortex Pokers. How is the back lit version compared to the non back lit version? I know sometimes the back lighting can cause issues with keycaps and such.

On a Linus Tech Tips review they said the blues felt kind of sticky and mushy, as well as a few Amazon reviews. I don't know how true that is though. And the mini is plastic? I thought that was a metal frame?

Frame =/= case

The Mini indeed has an aluminum frame. But the aluminum merely comprises two thin layers surrounding the keyboard itself. It creates a huge bezel for a 60% and the bezel isn't even primarily aluminum (Ducky will tell you all about the "sandwich" that makes up the bezel).

The PCB / switches / plate reside inside a cheap, thin plastic case. I've sawed the bezel off my Ducky Mini to make it more of a true 60% and the case is truly a generic, flimsy disappointment.  There is only one commendable aspect of the Ducky Mini, which is that the switches are mounted very tightly to the plate, allowing for no wobble at all.

The V60 is a better choice than the Mini, as is the Pok3r. Both V60 and Pok3r have a PCB/plate that can be dropped into any "60% compatible case". The Ducky Mini cannot. Its corners are not rounded in the slightest and its screw mounting locations on both the PCB and plate are completely off.


Forgot to add, if you choose to go the Matias route for the V60, you will lose compatibility with 60% cases due to the difference of something like 1 screw.

Ducky ANSI 104, and ANSI TKL are pretty standard. The mini is the .. odd duck? Can I use that phrase? Sounds kind of harsh.

With the backlit Pok3r you get ABS keycaps. A lot of people change out the caps of both versions because the non-backlit Pok3r's PBT keycaps have legends that fade quickly, and ABS plastic tends to shine.

If you like backlit go for it. Vortex (company that makes the Pok3r) also makes a double shot keyset of PBT/POM. The POM lets the light shine through the legends. POM is suppose to be about as resistant to wear as PBT.

Oh man, that is a crucial bit of information regarding the V60 Matias Quiet Click. No low profile acrylic case?

[dandanflake]

Ducky ANSI 104, and ANSI TKL are pretty standard. The mini is the .. odd duck? Can I use that phrase? Sounds kind of harsh.

With the backlit Pok3r you get ABS keycaps. A lot of people change out the caps of both versions because the non-backlit Pok3r's PBT keycaps have legends that fade quickly, and ABS plastic tends to shine.

If you like backlit go for it. Vortex (company that makes the Pok3r) also makes a double shot keyset of PBT/POM. The POM lets the light shine through the legends. POM is suppose to be about as resistant to wear as PBT.

Oh man, that is a crucial bit of information regarding the V60 Matias Quiet Click. No low profile acrylic case?

What I mean though is that I've heard some reports of the back lights on the V60 tend to cause some thicker keycaps to almost stick a little bit or not fit at all. Are these reports true? If this is the case with the Poker as well, then I will just go with the non back lit version instead.

[xtrafrood]

Hmmm, that's a new one for me. I was planning to upgrade the v60 case to acrylic, but that is interesting, I never would have thought of double shot keycap clearance issues.

[dandanflake]

Hmmm, that's a new one for me. I was planning to upgrade the v60 case to acrylic, but that is interesting, I never would have thought of double shot keycap clearance issues.

Yea from what I read and form some reviews online they were mentioning the clearance issue.
Here's the video I found that was originally describing it.

At around 3:20 is when he starts mentioning it.

[xtrafrood]

Ah, Vortex caps are pretty much the thickest PBT caps. Stuck on the LEDs huh? I wonder if the LEDs weren't pushed down all the way before the soldering. I like the v60 for the Matias option.

The pok3r comes with thick Vortex PBT caps originally so you shouldn't run in to that kind of sticking issue. I doubt Vortex would go though the trouble of offering a backlight keyboard without testing key clearance for the PBT caps they sell.

Side Note: LiquidEvilGaming chose a peculiar placement for that flashy mouse.

[mobbo]

I've had both boards and I prefer the Pok3r.

Pok3r comes with an aluminum case instead of plastic, PBT caps instead of ABS, and now have backlighting options as well (albeit with ABS).

Unless you prefer the default layout for the KBP v60 over the Pok3r, or have a budget limit you cannot exceed, I see no reason to get it.

[quasistellar]

well, the v60 is cheaper, and can be had with Matias switches.  Those are two pretty important things to consider.  I wish they were just a tiny bit cheaper, though, or that they had the option of better caps/case.

Full disclosure:  I own a Pok3r with PBT keycaps and aluminum case, and not a v60.

[childofthehorn]

Had a Pok3r and a Matias QC v60.

Matias QCv60 is still around.

Even though its not programmable, it has the very best standard layout I believe of any of them.  It was the one which started my love affair with better Alps.
If you like Greens, seriously look into the Matias v60 options. It will be hard to ever go back.

[Metalogic]

I've recently bought an ISO UK Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (MX brown) for use with my desktop PC, but am also thinking about getting a 60% keyboard for traveling with my laptop computer. I'm not massively keen on the font used, but the Pok3r (probably with MX clears) looks to be the best bet for me, and is readily available in the UK.

I have two questions though:

1) I've read that the key legends can wear off quite quickly, Vortex do replacement keycaps, BUT, these don't seem to have the side legends for the multi-use keys, as far as I can tell - are the original Pok3r keycap sets available to buy anywhere?

2) I generally prefer a UK ISO layout, as it's what I'm used to and make less mistakes with this, this is readily available for the Pok3r, but for this keyboard, would it be better to go with an ANSI layout for better compatibility with replacement keys? If I can live without the side legends for the multi-function keys, I'd probably go for a double-shot PBT set, but there seems to be very limited availability of these with an ISO UK layout. Thanks

[1swt2gs]

One thing that turned me off about the 60% ducky is the hideous case

[exanile_tabasco]

I've recently bought an ISO UK Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (MX brown) for use with my desktop PC, but am also thinking about getting a 60% keyboard for traveling with my laptop computer. I'm not massively keen on the font used, but the Pok3r (probably with MX clears) looks to be the best bet for me, and is readily available in the UK.

I have two questions though:

1) I've read that the key legends can wear off quite quickly, Vortex do replacement keycaps, BUT, these don't seem to have the side legends for the multi-use keys, as far as I can tell - are the original Pok3r keycap sets available to buy anywhere?

2) I generally prefer a UK ISO layout, as it's what I'm used to and make less mistakes with this, this is readily available for the Pok3r, but for this keyboard, would it be better to go with an ANSI layout for better compatibility with replacement keys? If I can live without the side legends for the multi-function keys, I'd probably go for a double-shot PBT set, but there seems to be very limited availability of these with an ISO UK layout. Thanks

I think the issue is not with wearing but with staining. It seems to be much more noticeable with the black Pok3r which uses yellow-ish legends; those get dark with use I think. The white Pok3r is not affected (i have the white one and am currently using the pok3r caps on my ducky mini without any problems).

The Tai-hao PBT sets, available on Amazon, purportedly come with ISO compatibility. As someone who was raised in North America, I find ISO clumsy and scarce, but that's just me. Some keycap manufactuers, Taihao included, include ISO enters (not sure about the rest of the ISO scheme though, it seems many people equate ISO enter = ISO which is not true given that other keys such as 2 are also slightly different).

[Metalogic]

I've recently bought an ISO UK Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (MX brown) for use with my desktop PC, but am also thinking about getting a 60% keyboard for traveling with my laptop computer. I'm not massively keen on the font used, but the Pok3r (probably with MX clears) looks to be the best bet for me, and is readily available in the UK.

I have two questions though:

1) I've read that the key legends can wear off quite quickly, Vortex do replacement keycaps, BUT, these don't seem to have the side legends for the multi-use keys, as far as I can tell - are the original Pok3r keycap sets available to buy anywhere?

2) I generally prefer a UK ISO layout, as it's what I'm used to and make less mistakes with this, this is readily available for the Pok3r, but for this keyboard, would it be better to go with an ANSI layout for better compatibility with replacement keys? If I can live without the side legends for the multi-function keys, I'd probably go for a double-shot PBT set, but there seems to be very limited availability of these with an ISO UK layout. Thanks

I think the issue is not with wearing but with staining. It seems to be much more noticeable with the black Pok3r which uses yellow-ish legends; those get dark with use I think. The white Pok3r is not affected (i have the white one and am currently using the pok3r caps on my ducky mini without any problems).

Okay, I see, I'm not so keen on white keys, though guess I might get used to them.

Also, the "black" Pok3r keys actually look more like dark grey in the screenshots I've seen - is this the case? I don't have a problem with that, if so, am just curious!

The Tai-hao PBT sets, available on Amazon, purportedly come with ISO compatibility. As someone who was raised in North America, I find ISO clumsy and scarce, but that's just me. Some keycap manufactuers, Taihao included, include ISO enters (not sure about the rest of the ISO scheme though, it seems many people equate ISO enter = ISO which is not true given that other keys such as 2 are also slightly different).

I'm a little clumsier with ANSI keys, but that's just because I'm used to them, but I'm not terrible on ANSI boards. I don't mind the smaller "Return""key on ANSI boards, but do miss the ALT GR key a little (makes it easier to type the Euro symbol and accented characters) and find some of the other changes confusing (e.g. hunting for the "\" and "|" characters, this key is in a different place on ANSI boards, as is the ~ key ), though the larger left shift key I quite like.

I also don't mind if there is a "#" symbol on the "3" key, instead of the "£" sign, although it means that there isn't a dedicated key for "#" as the "#" key is used for entering £ with a UK keyboard mapping, which can be a little annoying, as you have to type ALT-3 instead

On the plus side, it seems it's *much* easier to get key sets (espc. PBT ones) for ANSI keyboards.  Tai-hao do *some* PBT for ISO, but the range seems very limited.

[LiquidEvilGaming]

Ah, Vortex caps are pretty much the thickest PBT caps. Stuck on the LEDs huh? I wonder if the LEDs weren't pushed down all the way before the soldering. I like the v60 for the Matias option.

The pok3r comes with thick Vortex PBT caps originally so you shouldn't run in to that kind of sticking issue. I doubt Vortex would go though the trouble of offering a backlight keyboard without testing key clearance for the PBT caps they sell.

Side Note: LiquidEvilGaming chose a peculiar placement for that flashy mouse.

Haha yeah sorry about that (The mouse placement and annoying lights)   Had a heap of products to review at the time and i had stuff nearly thrown all over my desk.

Having owned and reviewed both i'll say this pro/cons wise.

KBP V60
Pros:
I prefer the layout
More affordable
Backlit if you are into that sort of thing
VERY large switch variety!

Cons: I had issues putting some thicker Keycaps onto the boards and they rubbed against the LED's (These were in fact Vortex Doubleshot PBT which as mentioned are insanely thick)  other PBT sets may work fine but it's all i tested with personally.
The stock case isn't the greatest and had i kept mine i would have replaced it with a metal one (Which would have added to the cost making it more costly than a pok3r is as stock)
Worst stock keycaps i have ever seen, thin,oily cheap plastic feel...just very unpleasant honestly. Granted most of us swap out caps anyways but it's worth mentioning for anyone who does not

Pok3r
Pros: Stock case is fantastic
Stock keycaps feel fantastic and are Thick PBT
Case lays keyboard more flat (Which i prefer personally)

Cons:
While the stock caps FEEL great the lettering wears out SUPER fast making them look hideous
Several keycaps on the pok3r's have VERY visible stems through the caps (Normal to a small degree on some PBT sets) but pok3r's seem to have some VERY bad examples.  My personal boards have been fine however.



Out of the box as a stock keyboard i preferred then (and still now) the Pok3r. However with a metal replacement case and some nicer caps the V60 is still a solid option if you don't mind spending the extra on those just for the back lighting it provides.  That said i have never used or owned one of the new back lit pok3r's so i really can't comment on those.  The V60 however also offers some switch options the pok3r does not (Matias,MX Whites*Don't believe pok3r offers these?*,Gaterons,White Fukka (Fuhua) ) So that is something to definitely bear in mind should you want to try one of these lesser used switch types.

In short decide which switch type you want First,if it's available in both decide if you want back lighting or not...then decide if you are willing to shell out extra after the fact for a non stock case or not. 

On a total side note about the Ducky mini while i totally respect Ducky as a company i could not get past the huge Bezel on the Ducky mini and decided not to even peruse purchasing one.

P.S i noticed you had mentioned MX Greens however with the dearth of options the KBP V60 has for switches figured i would at least mention them all.

Also as far as switches go i had an MX Blue of both KBP V60 (and still have a pok3r with them) and both of them had crisp feeling Blues across the entire board.

[xtrafrood]

Ah, Vortex caps are pretty much the thickest PBT caps. Stuck on the LEDs huh? I wonder if the LEDs weren't pushed down all the way before the soldering. I like the v60 for the Matias option.

The pok3r comes with thick Vortex PBT caps originally so you shouldn't run in to that kind of sticking issue. I doubt Vortex would go though the trouble of offering a backlight keyboard without testing key clearance for the PBT caps they sell.

Side Note: LiquidEvilGaming chose a peculiar placement for that flashy mouse.

Haha yeah sorry about that (The mouse placement and annoying lights)   Had a heap of products to review at the time and i had stuff nearly thrown all over my desk.

Having owned and reviewed both i'll say this pro/cons wise.

KBP V60
Pros:
I prefer the layout
More affordable
Backlit if you are into that sort of thing
VERY large switch variety!

Cons: I had issues putting some thicker Keycaps onto the boards and they rubbed against the LED's (These were in fact Vortex Doubleshot PBT which as mentioned are insanely thick)  other PBT sets may work fine but it's all i tested with personally.
The stock case isn't the greatest and had i kept mine i would have replaced it with a metal one (Which would have added to the cost making it more costly than a pok3r is as stock)
Worst stock keycaps i have ever seen, thin,oily cheap plastic feel...just very unpleasant honestly. Granted most of us swap out caps anyways but it's worth mentioning for anyone who does not

Pok3r
Pros: Stock case is fantastic
Stock keycaps feel fantastic and are Thick PBT
Case lays keyboard more flat (Which i prefer personally)

Cons:
While the stock caps FEEL great the lettering wears out SUPER fast making them look hideous
Several keycaps on the pok3r's have VERY visible stems through the caps (Normal to a small degree on some PBT sets) but pok3r's seem to have some VERY bad examples.  My personal boards have been fine however.



Out of the box as a stock keyboard i preferred then (and still now) the Pok3r. However with a metal replacement case and some nicer caps the V60 is still a solid option if you don't mind spending the extra on those just for the back lighting it provides.  That said i have never used or owned one of the new back lit pok3r's so i really can't comment on those.  The V60 however also offers some switch options the pok3r does not (Matias,MX Whites*Don't believe pok3r offers these?*,Gaterons,White Fukka (Fuhua) ) So that is something to definitely bear in mind should you want to try one of these lesser used switch types.

In short decide which switch type you want First,if it's available in both decide if you want back lighting or not...then decide if you are willing to shell out extra after the fact for a non stock case or not. 

On a total side note about the Ducky mini while i totally respect Ducky as a company i could not get past the huge Bezel on the Ducky mini and decided not to even peruse purchasing one.

P.S i noticed you had mentioned MX Greens however with the dearth of options the KBP V60 has for switches figured i would at least mention them all.

Also as far as switches go i had an MX Blue of both KBP V60 (and still have a pok3r with them) and both of them had crisp feeling Blues across the entire board.

Haha, I figured the reason would be something along those lines.

[dandanflake]

Well just ordered a white backlit, black Pok3r. I ended up going with MX Clears actually. I bought a WASD Cherry MX tester and actually seemed to like the clears quite a bit . Amazon only charged me $5 for 1 day shipping so the keyboard should be here tomorrow. I'm really excited. I'm a little worried I won't like the clears on a full board though, especially given I'm used to using buckling springs.

[exanile_tabasco]

I'm sure you'll be fine. Congratz on the purchase!

Two things to note:

1. I'm sure you've read of it already but be careful when swapping keycaps on Clears (i'm sure you'll want to, seeing how the stock caps are lol). They fit really tight; some sources say to leave the stock caps on for 2 weeks before pulling any caps, but I cannot verify that claim.

2. Be careful on the edges; if you use lower profile caps such as DSA (which sit a tad bit higher on a switch), be extra careful as they may snag on random objects. This is because the Pok3r's plate sits flush with the case sides, unlike the V60 or Poker 2. Just something to keep in mind if you travel very long distances with your keyboard, like I do. I opted for a wooden case because the extra bezel protects my board a bit more when I put it in my sleeve and then my backpack.

[dandanflake]

I'm sure you'll be fine. Congratz on the purchase!

Two things to note:

1. I'm sure you've read of it already but be careful when swapping keycaps on Clears (i'm sure you'll want to, seeing how the stock caps are lol). They fit really tight; some sources say to leave the stock caps on for 2 weeks before pulling any caps, but I cannot verify that claim.

2. Be careful on the edges; if you use lower profile caps such as DSA (which sit a tad bit higher on a switch), be extra careful as they may snag on random objects. This is because the Pok3r's plate sits flush with the case sides, unlike the V60 or Poker 2. Just something to keep in mind if you travel very long distances with your keyboard, like I do. I opted for a wooden case because the extra bezel protects my board a bit more when I put it in my sleeve and then my backpack.

Thank you! And yea, I'm definitely going to change them out. Idk about that claim with letting them sit. I've heard about it too. I'm going to use it for a couple weeks before pulling any just to be on the safe side. Right now I'm looking for a good set to replace the stock keycaps with. I bought the backlit version so that's going to limit my options somewhat. I already purchased some dice keycaps from Max keyboards for my number keys. I'm not sure if I'll use them especially when I replace the rest of the keycaps, but we'll see. I'm hoping they won't look obnoxious and will be of decent quality.

[LiquidEvilGaming]

I'm sure you'll be fine. Congratz on the purchase!

Two things to note:

1. I'm sure you've read of it already but be careful when swapping keycaps on Clears (i'm sure you'll want to, seeing how the stock caps are lol). They fit really tight; some sources say to leave the stock caps on for 2 weeks before pulling any caps, but I cannot verify that claim.

2. Be careful on the edges; if you use lower profile caps such as DSA (which sit a tad bit higher on a switch), be extra careful as they may snag on random objects. This is because the Pok3r's plate sits flush with the case sides, unlike the V60 or Poker 2. Just something to keep in mind if you travel very long distances with your keyboard, like I do. I opted for a wooden case because the extra bezel protects my board a bit more when I put it in my sleeve and then my backpack.

Thank you! And yea, I'm definitely going to change them out. Idk about that claim with letting them sit. I've heard about it too. I'm going to use it for a couple weeks before pulling any just to be on the safe side. Right now I'm looking for a good set to replace the stock keycaps with. I bought the backlit version so that's going to limit my options somewhat. I already purchased some dice keycaps from Max keyboards for my number keys. I'm not sure if I'll use them especially when I replace the rest of the keycaps, but we'll see. I'm hoping they won't look obnoxious and will be of decent quality.

Far as the claim of letting "Clears sit"  I asked WASD about this when i was asking them about their company what made them different etc before i did a WASD Code review and this is the exact response i got regarding the matter...P.S Tek Syndicate i think started this rumor given the info he actually got from WASD about his custom done WASD board.  But i'll copy paste what WASD E-mailed me directly.




That’s right, we include a warning in each of our V2 custom mechanical keyboards that has the following message

WARNING:

Please note that new keycaps fit very snugly on Cherry MX Clear switches.
To avoid damage to your switches we strongly advise waiting two weeks
before removing any new keycaps that have been put on your Clear
switches. If you have any questions regarding keycap removal on Clear
switches, please email our support team at info@wasdkeyboards.com

This is based off our experience with building keyboards with Clear switches, and it’s a little subjective so your mileage may vary of course. The danger here is that if you get a brand new assembled keyboard and try pulling out a keycap immediately, the switch’s stem may come out along with the keycap and the only way to fix that is to replace the entire switch.

As far as we can tell, this is because we build every keyboard to order and normally a manufacturer will do a large run of the same model all at once and have them sitting in warehouses for months before shipping out. For instance, our CODE keyboards are made in this way and don’t need this degree of caution, but our V2s which are all built to-order do.

Let me know if you have any other questions,



TLDR: With boards that are pre built and been sitting on a shelf for awhile it's really no big deal, with boards built ""Freshly"" or custom with brand new Clear switches you need to let them sit for awhile.

[dandanflake]

I'm sure you'll be fine. Congratz on the purchase!

Two things to note:

1. I'm sure you've read of it already but be careful when swapping keycaps on Clears (i'm sure you'll want to, seeing how the stock caps are lol). They fit really tight; some sources say to leave the stock caps on for 2 weeks before pulling any caps, but I cannot verify that claim.

2. Be careful on the edges; if you use lower profile caps such as DSA (which sit a tad bit higher on a switch), be extra careful as they may snag on random objects. This is because the Pok3r's plate sits flush with the case sides, unlike the V60 or Poker 2. Just something to keep in mind if you travel very long distances with your keyboard, like I do. I opted for a wooden case because the extra bezel protects my board a bit more when I put it in my sleeve and then my backpack.

Thank you! And yea, I'm definitely going to change them out. Idk about that claim with letting them sit. I've heard about it too. I'm going to use it for a couple weeks before pulling any just to be on the safe side. Right now I'm looking for a good set to replace the stock keycaps with. I bought the backlit version so that's going to limit my options somewhat. I already purchased some dice keycaps from Max keyboards for my number keys. I'm not sure if I'll use them especially when I replace the rest of the keycaps, but we'll see. I'm hoping they won't look obnoxious and will be of decent quality.

Far as the claim of letting "Clears sit"  I asked WASD about this when i was asking them about their company what made them different etc before i did a WASD Code review and this is the exact response i got regarding the matter...P.S Tek Syndicate i think started this rumor given the info he actually got from WASD about his custom done WASD board.  But i'll copy paste what WASD E-mailed me directly.




That’s right, we include a warning in each of our V2 custom mechanical keyboards that has the following message

WARNING:

Please note that new keycaps fit very snugly on Cherry MX Clear switches.
To avoid damage to your switches we strongly advise waiting two weeks
before removing any new keycaps that have been put on your Clear
switches. If you have any questions regarding keycap removal on Clear
switches, please email our support team at info@wasdkeyboards.com

This is based off our experience with building keyboards with Clear switches, and it’s a little subjective so your mileage may vary of course. The danger here is that if you get a brand new assembled keyboard and try pulling out a keycap immediately, the switch’s stem may come out along with the keycap and the only way to fix that is to replace the entire switch.

As far as we can tell, this is because we build every keyboard to order and normally a manufacturer will do a large run of the same model all at once and have them sitting in warehouses for months before shipping out. For instance, our CODE keyboards are made in this way and don’t need this degree of caution, but our V2s which are all built to-order do.

Let me know if you have any other questions,



TLDR: With boards that are pre built and been sitting on a shelf for awhile it's really no big deal, with boards built ""Freshly"" or custom with brand new Clear switches you need to let them sit for awhile.

That's good to know, thank you! Hopefully I won't have any issues with switching them out.
Btw I just subscribed to your YouTube channel

[LiquidEvilGaming]

I'm sure you'll be fine. Congratz on the purchase!

Two things to note:

1. I'm sure you've read of it already but be careful when swapping keycaps on Clears (i'm sure you'll want to, seeing how the stock caps are lol). They fit really tight; some sources say to leave the stock caps on for 2 weeks before pulling any caps, but I cannot verify that claim.

2. Be careful on the edges; if you use lower profile caps such as DSA (which sit a tad bit higher on a switch), be extra careful as they may snag on random objects. This is because the Pok3r's plate sits flush with the case sides, unlike the V60 or Poker 2. Just something to keep in mind if you travel very long distances with your keyboard, like I do. I opted for a wooden case because the extra bezel protects my board a bit more when I put it in my sleeve and then my backpack.

Thank you! And yea, I'm definitely going to change them out. Idk about that claim with letting them sit. I've heard about it too. I'm going to use it for a couple weeks before pulling any just to be on the safe side. Right now I'm looking for a good set to replace the stock keycaps with. I bought the backlit version so that's going to limit my options somewhat. I already purchased some dice keycaps from Max keyboards for my number keys. I'm not sure if I'll use them especially when I replace the rest of the keycaps, but we'll see. I'm hoping they won't look obnoxious and will be of decent quality.

Far as the claim of letting "Clears sit"  I asked WASD about this when i was asking them about their company what made them different etc before i did a WASD Code review and this is the exact response i got regarding the matter...P.S Tek Syndicate i think started this rumor given the info he actually got from WASD about his custom done WASD board.  But i'll copy paste what WASD E-mailed me directly.




That’s right, we include a warning in each of our V2 custom mechanical keyboards that has the following message

WARNING:

Please note that new keycaps fit very snugly on Cherry MX Clear switches.
To avoid damage to your switches we strongly advise waiting two weeks
before removing any new keycaps that have been put on your Clear
switches. If you have any questions regarding keycap removal on Clear
switches, please email our support team at info@wasdkeyboards.com

This is based off our experience with building keyboards with Clear switches, and it’s a little subjective so your mileage may vary of course. The danger here is that if you get a brand new assembled keyboard and try pulling out a keycap immediately, the switch’s stem may come out along with the keycap and the only way to fix that is to replace the entire switch.

As far as we can tell, this is because we build every keyboard to order and normally a manufacturer will do a large run of the same model all at once and have them sitting in warehouses for months before shipping out. For instance, our CODE keyboards are made in this way and don’t need this degree of caution, but our V2s which are all built to-order do.

Let me know if you have any other questions,



TLDR: With boards that are pre built and been sitting on a shelf for awhile it's really no big deal, with boards built ""Freshly"" or custom with brand new Clear switches you need to let them sit for awhile.

That's good to know, thank you! Hopefully I won't have any issues with switching them out.
Btw I just subscribed to your YouTube channel

Thanks =) always appreciate every sub and view i get of anyone who is willing to listen/watch my amateur dribble

I do think there is some truth to WASD's statement as removing the Caps on my WASD CODE was a relative cakewalk honestly.  This would be an interesting thing for someone to test ordering a batch of new MX Clear switches and putting them on a switch tester or something and try swapping caps on them with tightly fitting caps like VORTEX PBT versus older Clears on a board that's been sitting for awhile.

[dandanflake]

Well just got my Pok3r in. I'm really impressed with the build quality of this thing. I'm still not sure how I feel about the clears, I think I just have to get used to them along with the 60% layout. One thing I've noticed with this board is when the backlighting is turned on, it makes a hissing or whining noise. Has anyone else experienced this? Or do I maybe have a defective unit?

Edit: It seems the higher I have the LED's the louder the noise is. However it is still present even when turned to their lowest level. I've looked it up and I have seen other people complain about it. I just wonder if it's a hit or miss case or what?

[jcoffin1981]

Yes,  there is a hum, but  there is supposedly a firmware upgrade that fixes this

http://theniunai.com/pok3r-firmware-update-v1-1-5-new-media-keys/


I spilled beer on my keyboard before I had chance to try it out.  What sucks about  your  board is the keys  are  ABS and not PBT.  Also with the new firmware, programming seems more difficult, and I could not get any media controls to work.

[dandanflake]

Yes,  there is a hum, but  there is supposedly a firmware upgrade that fixes this

http://theniunai.com/pok3r-firmware-update-v1-1-5-new-media-keys/


I spilled beer on my keyboard before I had chance to try it out.  What sucks about  your  board is the keys  are  ABS and not PBT.  Also with the new firmware, programming seems more difficult, and I could not get any media controls to work.

Thank you so much for the link! Going to try it out. And yea I agree about the key caps, but at least key caps can be easily swapped out.

Update: Just downloaded and updated the firmware. Fixed the issue!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you so much again!
There still is a slight hum when I put the board directly against my ear with the backlight on... but that's obviously a non issue. There's no audible hum when it's normal distance away from me