Author Topic: Fixing faulty Model M without bolt modding ?  (Read 1772 times)

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Offline Tangtawan

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Fixing faulty Model M without bolt modding ?
« on: Tue, 01 November 2016, 06:49:19 »
Hi all,

I have just received 87' IBM Model M Space Saving Keyboard, part No. 1391472. Everything works perfectly, just the ESC button is faulty.. as sometimes it doesnt register (so I need to press it rapidly) and also gives weird feeling compared to other keys, i'd say its almost feels linear.

I managed to take apart the chassis and observe the metal plate, I have found out that there are many broken rivets and there is a noticeable distance between the metal plate and the barrel (see the attachment below).. are there any simple solution to this problem other than bolt modding? as i dont really wanna go that deep into modding this keyboard ( I have no basic skill )..

The spring and hammer for this key and F1 is also movable (with toothpick) .. so im pretty sure its because that distance between metal plate and barrel causing this problem. What if I keep using this keyboard without fixing anytime soon, will the problem be worsen? or should i stop using this keyboard immediately?

Thanks for the help.


My boards : Model F AT (6450200), Industrial M (1394950), Model M SSK (1391472), Model M13 (13H6705), Model M (1390131), Focus FK-2001 (ALPS SKCM Blue), HHKB Pro 2, Realforce 87U 55g, KBP V80 Matias Click, TADA68 (Gateron Reds), Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (67g Ergo Clears), Cherry G80-11800 (Ergo Clears), KBT One 108 (MX White), Ducky One TKL RGB (MX Black), Filco Majestouch Tenkeypad (MX Brown), Leopold FC210TP (MX Red)

Offline E TwentyNine

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Re: Fixing faulty Model M without bolt modding ?
« Reply #1 on: Tue, 01 November 2016, 07:19:25 »
You can do a partial bolt mod without pulling the board apart.  Just drill out the broken rivets in the area and put in bolts/screws.  This has the possibility of debris getting inside but should work fine.

But even before that, you just need to get the plates tighter together.  That could be as simple as a binder clip on the edge (space allowing) or something similar.  Putting a wad of folded up paper in the case so when you tighten the case it presses the plates together has been known to work as well for keys near the edge of the board.

You're on the path to an eventual bolt mod, but you may last a long while with little tricks like this.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets

Offline fohat.digs

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Re: Fixing faulty Model M without bolt modding ?
« Reply #2 on: Tue, 01 November 2016, 07:47:10 »
I would echo what E29 says and add that you *should not* try to use any type of glue in this repair, you will only give yourself headaches later.

If you can find some M2 screws about 6mm-8mm long and a 1.5mm drill bit, add a screw wherever there are multiple broken rivets in the same vicinity.
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Offline Tangtawan

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  • Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Re: Fixing faulty Model M without bolt modding ?
« Reply #3 on: Tue, 01 November 2016, 13:59:20 »
thanks for all the comments, I really have no experience using any tools let alone touching anything more advanced than a screw driver... so i dont think drilling holes or partial bolt modding would be a good solution for me.

The most reasonable solution for me would be the binder clip method, how common is this? and are there anymore details that i need to know before doing so?
My boards : Model F AT (6450200), Industrial M (1394950), Model M SSK (1391472), Model M13 (13H6705), Model M (1390131), Focus FK-2001 (ALPS SKCM Blue), HHKB Pro 2, Realforce 87U 55g, KBP V80 Matias Click, TADA68 (Gateron Reds), Filco Majestouch 2 TKL (67g Ergo Clears), Cherry G80-11800 (Ergo Clears), KBT One 108 (MX White), Ducky One TKL RGB (MX Black), Filco Majestouch Tenkeypad (MX Brown), Leopold FC210TP (MX Red)

Offline E TwentyNine

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Re: Fixing faulty Model M without bolt modding ?
« Reply #4 on: Tue, 01 November 2016, 17:23:39 »
It's pretty simple, just clip the assembly where you can (then remove the "handles" so you can close things up).

Don't know if you're going to find clearance for that though.

The paper trick is simpler still, and I think you have a good spot - the gap between the ESC and F1 keys.  I'd put a folded up square of paper in there thick enough to put some pressure on the barrel plate, hold the case closed by hand and see if things work.  If it does, install the screws and be happy with a working keyboard.
Daily driver: SSK or Tenkeyless IBM AT
1984 Model M Industrial Prototype ⌨ 1992 Black Oval Industrial SSK ⌨ 1982 5251 Beam Spring ⌨ 89 Key "SSK" ⌨ M13 triplets