Author Topic: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica  (Read 16335 times)

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Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #100 on: Thu, 16 August 2018, 07:26:16 »
I looked into the alignment issue with spacebar and left alt. It can be fixed with the following:

- CAREFULLY file down the protruding parts (top and bottom) between the WK and WKL alt key center peg hole so instead of a 'sideways 8' you have a 'sideways 0' there
- Use a plate mount switch on alt position
- Twist the pins of the switch 90 degrees with pliers (so instead of having the flat sides of the pins face north and south, they're facing east and west), and bent them slightly. This combined with the filing part makes it possible to move the switch to the right as a whole.
- Solder one leg first and see if it's aligned well. If it isn't, reflow and re-position until it sits right. Then solder 2nd leg.

Potato pictures of fixed thing:




Sorry ag36, LightningXI and french dude who probably isn't on GH, if I had known about this problem I would not have distributed my spare PCBs. This fix is quite ghetto but better than nothing I guess.

Also, if anyone has a spare black WKL case, hit me up  :p
« Last Edit: Thu, 16 August 2018, 07:57:35 by pngu »

Online Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #101 on: Mon, 20 August 2018, 18:38:52 »
I looked into the alignment issue with spacebar and left alt. It can be fixed with the following:

Have you got any photos without the keys/switches installed, or from behind? My pcbs are arriving this week and don't want to screw anything up :)

Online Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #102 on: Fri, 31 August 2018, 06:06:02 »
Double post, sorry, but here's a couple of photos of what pngu has described above - basically you have to use a round file to create an oval at S104,  instead of the original infinity symbol shape (∞):

Before



After



I haven't soldered the switches yet, as only just received these, but it looks as if it's going to work :)

Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #103 on: Mon, 03 September 2018, 02:26:09 »
Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.

Offline Lifehack

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #104 on: Mon, 03 September 2018, 06:11:27 »
Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).

thanks

Online Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #105 on: Mon, 03 September 2018, 14:41:35 »
Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.

Awesome, good to hear - I fried two boards somehow, which connected to the PC & worked originally, but after removing overnight, stopped working! I can't figure it out as everything was soldered well (I actually surprised myself) so I'm assuming ESD or something fried the atmega32u4... funny thing is, on my third account, I accidentally removed a pad and had to jump the connection & this one is working perfectly :))

Only issue I'm having at the moment is that the NUMLOCK LED indicator isn't as bright as the other two indicator LED's when programmed with QMK, but when programmed with EasyAVR they're all fine - anyone else run into this issue?

Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).

Only issue I've come into is the bottom row alignment (& probably my own separate issue above).

Offline Lifehack

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #106 on: Tue, 04 September 2018, 03:19:08 »
thanks, I meant the post quoted below

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Also, you'll want to use a plate mount switch and bend the pins a bit so everything can line up. Thanks for taking these pictures, my phone isn't good enough to do it.

Awesome, good to hear - I fried two boards somehow, which connected to the PC & worked originally, but after removing overnight, stopped working! I can't figure it out as everything was soldered well (I actually surprised myself) so I'm assuming ESD or something fried the atmega32u4... funny thing is, on my third account, I accidentally removed a pad and had to jump the connection & this one is working perfectly :))

Only issue I'm having at the moment is that the NUMLOCK LED indicator isn't as bright as the other two indicator LED's when programmed with QMK, but when programmed with EasyAVR they're all fine - anyone else run into this issue?

Hello, is the pcb fixed? I've seen that someone reported a number of errors on the layout (bottom row but not only that).

Only issue I've come into is the bottom row alignment (& probably my own separate issue above).



Just built mine as well, but there seems to be a little problem regarding the bottom row.

As you can see, the alt key is a little misplaced.
I've doublechecked the source and I've found no issue whatsoever, furthermore all the boards I've put together are winkeyless and they are fine.
Make sure the switch is in its correct position, see if there's any gap between the bottom of the switch and the PCB.
Keep me posted.

I took it a bit further and exported the gerbers into kicad, where I checked the placement of the switches by placing my own footprints over them in the exact same place using a 10mil grid since that seems to be what you're using. What I found is that the 1.5u key next to the 7u spacebar is shifted so far to the left that it overlaps the 7u footprint.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

Not only that, but a lot of switches are off by at least 5 mils. The switch spacing is 750 mil (=19,05mm), right? The Esc key is on X = 340, so the F5 key should be on X = 340+(6.5*750) = 5215. But it's on X = 5210. And there are more switches with the same problem.

Offline kokokoy

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #107 on: Tue, 04 September 2018, 05:41:53 »
First off, thanks TalkingTree for this project. Managed to build mine but won't be doing it again.  :)) I'm 1/6 in terms of my build. I don't know if it was lack of skill, lack of good equipment or both. Was thinking of doing it again after getting a few things but g80-3000 are so flimsy that I decided leave it be. One board is good enough. I'll just consider it as learning experience.

Anyway, I used a PCB mount switch and that work well in terms of the spacing on the right ALT though you can see the small difference in the spacing between the left and the right ALTs. And for leds, using firmware out of QMK configurator didn't work but compiling it manually (using msys2) did.

Online Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #108 on: Tue, 04 September 2018, 17:54:59 »
thanks, I meant the post quoted below


That seems to be a non-issue though - the switches might be out by a tiny amount but they're all evenly spaced & fit perfectly into the G80 cases listed in the original post; my finished board doesn't have any issues with fitment or spacing between any of the keys except the 7u spacebar. Hope this helps.

Online Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #109 on: Sun, 09 September 2018, 10:32:44 »
Here's my finished board, in a modern G80 case with OG Cherry Dyesubs (& ePBT 9009 Win/FN):

203183-0

Needed to do a little modification to the case to make it fit (saw 3 plastic posts off), but otherwise, it fits perfectly.

Numpad LED issue still persists on QMK though - is there any way to change the brightness of the LED's within your config.c etc files?
« Last Edit: Sun, 09 September 2018, 10:35:47 by Ascenity »

Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #110 on: Sun, 09 September 2018, 18:04:55 »
Here's my finished board, in a modern G80 case with OG Cherry Dyesubs (& ePBT 9009 Win/FN):

(Attachment Link)

Needed to do a little modification to the case to make it fit (saw 3 plastic posts off), but otherwise, it fits perfectly.

Numpad LED issue still persists on QMK though - is there any way to change the brightness of the LED's within your config.c etc files?

That looks glorious. I'm not sure if TalkingTree provided the option to change LED brightness, but you could solder in a higher value resistor.

Online Ascenity

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #111 on: Mon, 10 September 2018, 08:21:34 »
That looks glorious. I'm not sure if TalkingTree provided the option to change LED brightness, but you could solder in a higher value resistor.

Thanks dude! Is yours built yet?

I'm using 470ohm resistors on each LED, but my num-lock LED is much dimmer than caps + scroll lock, so I'm just trying to figure that out - they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK. I'm going to desolder it & see if I can figure it out off-board because I lifted the pads on the num-lock LED through-holes, as my original LED cracked when I cut the leg, so I might not have routed it correctly.

Offline pngu

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #112 on: Wed, 12 September 2018, 02:10:39 »
they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK.

Well that sounds more like a software issue then. I built mine but am still waiting for resistors, the ones I ordered never showed up so I ordered some more from a different store:



OG doubleshots and retooled blacks in a ~1986 G80-1K case. Some of the PCB mount switches were a VERY tight fit and aren't seated properly, I'll need to re-do those.

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #113 on: Wed, 12 September 2018, 12:43:10 »
they're all equally as bright with EasyAVR, but not with QMK.

Well that sounds more like a software issue then. I built mine but am still waiting for resistors, the ones I ordered never showed up so I ordered some more from a different store:

Show Image


OG doubleshots and retooled blacks in a ~1986 G80-1K case. Some of the PCB mount switches were a VERY tight fit and aren't seated properly, I'll need to re-do those.

Ah, that's annoying. I got all my components from LCSC (JLCPCB's component company), so it all came in the same package :) Yeah, that's what I thought, but I'll have to try de-soldering first to double check and then go from there.

Looks super nice dude! Yeah, I used H year code (1995) PCB mount MX blacks & had to absolutely force them in (destroyed my thumbs haha) - I even had to desolder a few and push them in a bit further to align the caps properly, but it was worth it, I think!


Offline kokokoy

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #114 on: Wed, 19 September 2018, 20:41:20 »
Heads up, I purchased PCB mounted gateron yellow from kbdfans and the pegs are thicker! Had to make all the mounting holes a bit bigger w/ a 2mm bit.  :'( Not sure why those switches are like that but I have some leftover cherry silent blanks and gateron clears that fits fine.

Anyway finally finished it and all looks good.

Offline tedfs3

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #115 on: Thu, 20 September 2018, 18:04:19 »
First of all, thank you for posting this. Very cool to see a project like this.

Did you make this project in KiCad or Eagle ? I haven't played with KiCad in a while but it's pretty fun to make something in KiCad and have it shipped to your door in less than a week.
Just have to watch out for Chinese New Year.

Offline tedfs3

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #116 on: Sat, 29 September 2018, 21:56:17 »
Thinking of doing this in a left handed version but will need to study the Gerbers and start from scratch in KiCad.
Thank you for the inspiration.

Offline t8c

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #117 on: Fri, 05 October 2018, 11:58:23 »
Would anyone offer assembly in EU ?

Offline abrahamstechnology

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Re: [opensource] GH80-3000 | Cherry G80-3000 replica
« Reply #118 on: Mon, 08 October 2018, 18:23:11 »
I'm getting a bunch of these made. I want to see if  I can dremel out a bunch of cheap rubber dome boards and stick these in.