Author Topic: Rama Works M60-A [SHIPPING] (Read 109094 times)

BerserkZz · « **Reply #1000 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 19:34:00 »

Damn, looking at all these pics and I haven't gotten my shipping notification yet. Feels bad.

Atredl · « **Reply #1001 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 19:57:03 »

Quote from: BerserkZz on Thu, 15 November 2018, 19:34:00

Damn, looking at all these pics and I haven't gotten my shipping notification yet. Feels bad.

I think that says more about how many keyboards were ordered + the speed of the shipping. Some of these boards are taking less than 48 hrs to get halfway around the world, which is awesome! Don’t worry, the wait will be worth it bud!

MrTq · « **Reply #1002 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 20:48:06 »

Quote from: eyedrop on Wed, 14 November 2018, 16:59:58

Just received the sage M60-A. Quality is top notch! Thank you, kingrama.

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

The real one is more difference than the render

Do you have any photo in good lightning condition?

Hokabuki · « **Reply #1003 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 21:59:25 »

Just got my Kuro in today! What were the original optional internal weight color options? Would it have been the W01-A in Moon that is listed on Rama's store?

schylarker · « **Reply #1004 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:00:34 »

Just a misc question: was the switchtop opening support removed at some point? (not that I'm complaining, I'm against those)

Also, what are those four little nips on the switch cutouts? Are they do prevent shaving switch sides?

schlep · « **Reply #1005 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:15:37 »

Quote from: Wilba on Thu, 15 November 2018, 07:49:57

Quote from: schlep on Thu, 15 November 2018, 07:46:41
Quote from: Wilba on Thu, 15 November 2018, 05:48:15
Quote from: schlep on Thu, 15 November 2018, 03:41:02
My hotswap sockets for no. 9 key got ripped off the PCB too. How do you connect it back? Do we have to solder the hotswap socket back to the PCB?

If you have a soldering iron and want to try putting a hotswap socket back on, then this would obviously be a quicker fix than exchanging for a new PCB. First ensure that the PCB is flat for all the other switches. It seems most of the problems people are having are due to not putting any counterforce (i.e. pushing the socket while inserting the switches). Relying on the screws to hold the PCB flat will cause the PCB to bend in the middle. The screws are for aligning the PCB and making inserting switches easier.

To solder the hotswap, it should be OK to use the solder that is already on the pad, just put it in position and push down in the middle of the hotswap's "pin" with the soldering iron tip, which should melt the solder and form a new joint. Alternate between each side until the hotswap socket is flat.

NOTE: Soldering the hotswaps, or "reflowing" the hotswap pads, is not a solution to a switch not working. The most likely causes are the switch pin being bent, or the PCB not being flat.

Thanks for the reply Wilba. Just to be sure if the sockets can still be salvaged, I have included a picture of the ripped off socket and the PCB.
I was just wondering on one side of the socket, there is a small piece of copper metal still stuck to it which I believe must have been ripped off from the PCB. How do I attach that back to the PCB?

Thanks!

Email support@rama.works and we can help you further.

Thanks Wilba, Rama and pixelpusher for all the support. I managed to salvage the PCB but it does look like a temp solution.

I understand that things may break but I appreciate all the support from Wilba and Rama.

Steerpike · « **Reply #1006 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47 »

Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

chief_shankaho · « **Reply #1007 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:46:15 »

Quote from: Steerpike on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47

Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

May be the same issue I was having. There's no screw in the middle/top of the PCB so inserting the switches pushes the PCB down slightly, which makes the switches not seat completely in the sockets. I left the bottom off the case when I seated the switches and pressed against the bottom of the PCB as I inserted the switches. That's really only needed for like E through I and D through K, if that. Hope that helps.

onefivenine · « **Reply #1008 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:48:42 »

Quote from: Steerpike on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47

Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

Did you make sure that the pcb is sitting flush against the frame and switches fully inserted? Also check your switch legs, I smashed a couple of mine.

mikenogo · « **Reply #1009 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:53:56 »

Quote from: Steerpike on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47

Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

sometimes you just gotta pull out the switch, put in a different switch in and see if it works, or see if the pins aren't bent and actually seated properly.

schlep · « **Reply #1010 on:** Thu, 15 November 2018, 23:06:13 »

This problem of switches not being able to register keypress is a problem with hotswap PCBs especially if there is a thick plate in between. Like some of you here, I also left the bottom case off and had to use a counterforce when placing the switches in. Some switches inevitably get bent as well as I tried to force the switch into the sockets.

Hotswap PCBs are meant to be more convenient but I am starting to feel like soldered on ones are better.

voight-kampff · « **Reply #1011 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 03:36:25 »

I haven't got a shipping notify, but I am beginning to worry about the pcb issues, and keys not registering.

KingRama · « **Reply #1012 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 05:05:49 »

Quote from: chief_shankaho on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:46:15

Quote from: Steerpike on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47
Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

May be the same issue I was having. There's no screw in the middle/top of the PCB so inserting the switches pushes the PCB down slightly, which makes the switches not seat completely in the sockets. I left the bottom off the case when I seated the switches and pressed against the bottom of the PCB as I inserted the switches. That's really only needed for like E through I and D through K, if that. Hope that helps.

The best way to assemble the board is inserting the switches from the center and working outwards, Quake from TopClack recently did a build video and show's how to do it here:
https://youtu.be/1oIoVqhsO64?t=5149 Hope that helps!

Kerasan · « **Reply #1013 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:08:15 »

I cant wait anymore, I envy/hate everyone!

KMK Labs

G1LL3Y · « **Reply #1014 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:22:44 »

Quote from: Kerasan on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:08:15

I cant wait anymore, I envy/hate everyone!

KMK Labs

I know what you mean. I check my Rama account and GeekHack multiple times daily in hopes that I will find out something about my order... and the wait continues...

ttot · « **Reply #1015 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:34:13 »

Quote from: G1LL3Y on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:22:44

Quote from: Kerasan on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:08:15

I cant wait anymore, I envy/hate everyone!

KMK Labs

I know what you mean. I check my Rama account and GeekHack multiple times daily in hopes that I will find out something about my order... and the wait continues...

same story

KingRama · « **Reply #1016 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:39:56 »

Quote from: ttot on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:34:13

Quote from: G1LL3Y on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:22:44
Quote from: Kerasan on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:08:15

I cant wait anymore, I envy/hate everyone!

KMK Labs

I know what you mean. I check my Rama account and GeekHack multiple times daily in hopes that I will find out something about my order... and the wait continues...

same story

Wilba, Kate and I are back in the warehouse early tomorrow morning!

More orders to go out

----

Latest guide here on installing switches:
https://rama.works/guides#/m60a-pcb-stab-switch-installation/

msvming · « **Reply #1017 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:45:54 »

Quote from: KingRama on Fri, 16 November 2018, 05:05:49

Quote from: chief_shankaho on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:46:15
Quote from: Steerpike on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47
Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

May be the same issue I was having. There's no screw in the middle/top of the PCB so inserting the switches pushes the PCB down slightly, which makes the switches not seat completely in the sockets. I left the bottom off the case when I seated the switches and pressed against the bottom of the PCB as I inserted the switches. That's really only needed for like E through I and D through K, if that. Hope that helps.

The best way to assemble the board is inserting the switches from the center and working outwards, Quake from TopClack recently did a build video and show's how to do it here:
https://youtu.be/1oIoVqhsO64?t=5149 Hope that helps!

Im also having issue on the 6,t,g which solved by pushing method. But after using for one day it's not register again
Should i try deassemble and install the switch again but starting from center? will it help?

chief_shankaho · « **Reply #1018 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:49:25 »

Quote from: msvming on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:45:54

Quote from: KingRama on Fri, 16 November 2018, 05:05:49
Quote from: chief_shankaho on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:46:15
Quote from: Steerpike on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47
Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

May be the same issue I was having. There's no screw in the middle/top of the PCB so inserting the switches pushes the PCB down slightly, which makes the switches not seat completely in the sockets. I left the bottom off the case when I seated the switches and pressed against the bottom of the PCB as I inserted the switches. That's really only needed for like E through I and D through K, if that. Hope that helps.

The best way to assemble the board is inserting the switches from the center and working outwards, Quake from TopClack recently did a build video and show's how to do it here:
https://youtu.be/1oIoVqhsO64?t=5149 Hope that helps!

Im also having issue on the 6,t,g which solved by pushing method. But after using for one day it's not register again
Should i try deassemble and install the switch again but starting from center? will it help?

I wouldn't re-install all the switches. It wouldn't hurt anything but it's not really needed. Just take those 3 out, take the bottom off the case, and push up on the bottom of the PCB as you install them. I'm guessing the first time you didn't push hard enough and the switches sat enough to make contact, but it wasn't enough to keep contact after typing on them for a while.

Steerpike · « **Reply #1019 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 12:55:37 »

Quote from: msvming on Fri, 16 November 2018, 07:45:54

Quote from: KingRama on Fri, 16 November 2018, 05:05:49
Quote from: chief_shankaho on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:46:15
Quote from: Steerpike on Thu, 15 November 2018, 22:20:47
Mine arrived today, I'm very impressed! I noticed that several of my keys are kind of flakey; some flat out don't work and others seem sort of on and off between resetting them. I followed the guide and it appears that the PCB is fine (shorting the pins verified all keys). But my switches also look okay and look like they're fully seated; also, swapping the switches from some of the working keys didn't seem to help. However, pressing the PCB in the problem areas did help in a few cases... is there some trick to setting/mounting the PCB? I didn't notice any problems when setting it, but I'm not sure why else I might have this issue. Not sure if it's relevant, but I got 67g Zealios; are they known to have a different profile for their pins or something that might cause this?

May be the same issue I was having. There's no screw in the middle/top of the PCB so inserting the switches pushes the PCB down slightly, which makes the switches not seat completely in the sockets. I left the bottom off the case when I seated the switches and pressed against the bottom of the PCB as I inserted the switches. That's really only needed for like E through I and D through K, if that. Hope that helps.

The best way to assemble the board is inserting the switches from the center and working outwards, Quake from TopClack recently did a build video and show's how to do it here:
https://youtu.be/1oIoVqhsO64?t=5149 Hope that helps!

Im also having issue on the 6,t,g which solved by pushing method. But after using for one day it's not register again
Should i try deassemble and install the switch again but starting from center? will it help?

For me it's the 6, 7, 8, 9, 0 and i keys. I did manage to get 0 working with a push but, like your situation, it failed again in subsequent tests. Going to try re-installing switches from the middle out tonight (after verifying again that it's not defective switches in those sockets). The board appears to be flush to the case; I'll have to double check but the structure seemed simple enough that there wouldn't be any protrusions or obstacles to hinder it from being set correctly.

nerium · « **Reply #1020 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 13:38:01 »

Since they are Kailh hot-swap sockets, would using Kailh switches result in the least amount of problems? Going to try and decide on and order my switches tonight.

Perfex · « **Reply #1021 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 14:58:09 »

Build quality of the M60 was top notch.

SA 1965, Tealios, Zeal stabs

Lisinge · « **Reply #1022 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 15:18:30 »

Quote from: nerium on Fri, 16 November 2018, 13:38:01

Since they are Kailh hot-swap sockets, would using Kailh switches result in the least amount of problems? Going to try and decide on and order my switches tonight.

No, i really don't think that is the case. The only switches you're going to have actual problems with is some outemus that comes with sockets on the legs OR desoldered switches.

Just check the legs to see that they are straight before installing each switch and if you are really pedantic then apply counterpreasure with your hand just like rama and wilba have said.

pixelpusher · « **Reply #1023 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 16:28:22 »

Quote from: Perfex on Fri, 16 November 2018, 14:58:09

Build quality of the M60 was top notch.

what switches? Looks pretty fab

beerafffe1 · « **Reply #1024 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 16:58:46 »

Sage+Camping

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Perfex · « **Reply #1025 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 17:02:58 »

Quote from: beerafffe1 on Fri, 16 November 2018, 16:58:46

Sage+Camping

Show Image

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Fantastic!

mrpetrov · « **Reply #1026 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 17:29:21 »

Quote from: beerafffe1 on Fri, 16 November 2018, 16:58:46

Sage+Camping

Show Image

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Very cool and unique, especially with the Ewok artisan! Do you think the stormtroopers driving the AT-ST walkers on Endor used this colorway/artisan combo in their cockpits?

pixelpusher · « **Reply #1027 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 19:41:14 »

Serving up some Royal Tea(alpha) for King Rama

aaron6301 · « **Reply #1028 on:** Fri, 16 November 2018, 21:40:08 »

Oh shoot boys, received tracking notification for CA

datfroyodoe · « **Reply #1029 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 01:43:00 »

Top notch product quality aside, I would like to highlight what a pleasant experience this whole group buy has been, from start to finish. Great communication, updates and attention to detail.

I had issues with my PCB and was immediately sent a replacement one, which worked like a charm. Even putting up a guide on how to fix the rattling weight the next day after raising the issue to him.

This is a group buy done right, a gold standard for all future organisers to follow and reference. Congrats to Rama, Kate and Wilba for putting out such a wonderful product.

KURO / Outemu Sky / GMK Laser / Grimdark Keybuto III

Sent from my LG-H930 using Tapatalk

pnkpanther65 · « **Reply #1030 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 09:29:24 »

I feel like I've spent more time taking pictures of this board than typing on it so far

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

ExuDeCandomble · « **Reply #1031 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 09:53:50 »

Aw maaaaan. I wanted to be the first Kuro with Laser! Looks fantastic. Still PATIENTLY

waiting on my tracking notification to come through.

mrpetrov · « **Reply #1032 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 10:14:11 »

Quote from: pnkpanther65 on Sat, 17 November 2018, 09:29:24

I feel like I've spent more time taking pictures of this board than typing on it so far
Show Image
Show Image

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Great to see one with an SA profile keycap set on it - looks fabulous and I love the high profile on it. Thanks for sharing!

kidcongo · « **Reply #1033 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 10:44:22 »

Here are a couple of pictures of mine.....

Everything about this board is very well done and beautifully finished, great job by everyone involved!

schlep · « **Reply #1034 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 10:46:11 »

Finally got the time to complete my build after the slight hiccup with the Kailh hotswap sockets. Here is my Dusk with GMK Olivia and Novelias switches.

Clix4Clax · « **Reply #1035 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 11:58:59 »

Quote from: mrpetrov on Sat, 17 November 2018, 10:14:11

Quote from: pnkpanther65 on Sat, 17 November 2018, 09:29:24
I feel like I've spent more time taking pictures of this board than typing on it so far
Show Image
Show Image

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Great to see one with an SA profile keycap set on it - looks fabulous and I love the high profile on it. Thanks for sharing!

SAMR

pendemon · « **Reply #1036 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 15:29:14 »

Anyone else obsessively checking for news about the waitlist?

TestostoBoost · « **Reply #1037 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 16:52:01 »

I’m obsessively checking for a shipping notification, haha.

MMKB · « **Reply #1038 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 17:22:25 »

Great job Rama. This has been perfectly executed.

jjwax · « **Reply #1039 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 19:48:12 »

Quote from: TestostoBoost on Sat, 17 November 2018, 16:52:01

I’m obsessively checking for a shipping notification, haha.

Same here, bro.

It'll be worth it!

forstsiven · « **Reply #1040 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 20:20:34 »

Not sure the right way to phrase this, but my layer 1 and layer 2/3 keys don't register. Keyboard also randomly goes unresponsive, forcing me to unplug it and plug it back in for it to be responsive.

Perfex · « **Reply #1041 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 20:51:19 »

Quote from: forstsiven on Sat, 17 November 2018, 20:20:34

Not sure the right way to phrase this, but my layer 1 and layer 2/3 keys don't register. Keyboard also randomly goes unresponsive, forcing me to unplug it and plug it back in for it to be responsive.

https://rama.works/m60a-keys-not-registering

cucgach · « **Reply #1042 on:** Sat, 17 November 2018, 21:26:29 »

Since joining mechkey community and especial some GBs, I've discovered my tolerance about patience. Sometimes, the GB like Rama one, i put my mind in Zen mode... Namaste...

(actually, I'm crying inside for not getting the board fast enough)

siggerzz · « **Reply #1043 on:** Sun, 18 November 2018, 05:04:15 »

Got woken up at 4am last night. Not even mad, because it was my shipping notification!

For any UK buyers, it's around £73 for customs. Once you get your waybill number, you should be able to pay here https://epayments.dhl.co.uk/. Not sure if it'll speed the process up at all.

Thanks again Rama, looking to it!

KingRama · « **Reply #1044 on:** Sun, 18 November 2018, 06:23:30 »

Hey all!

Thank you so much for the kind words, patience and photos! Absolutely love seeing all the set / colour combinations <3

---

Just had another two days of packing with Kate / Wilba and his kids helping out. I anticipate another 2 days of packing and we'll be all done!!! Going back to the warehouse tomorrow to pack some more orders with Kate.

A few orders will have boutique boxes painted by Wilba's daughter, post a pic if you get it!

Also the new tape machine is helping us pack orders a lot quicker and it results in much neater packaging

---

Don't stop posting setups

DHL Pickup for the packages shown above is scheduled in for tomorrow morning, so most orders from that batch should arrive before the end of week

vewy_nice · « **Reply #1045 on:** Sun, 18 November 2018, 07:27:41 »

Hey, uh... Pay attention when you install the stabilizers! (I was distracted, talking to my gf)

I was able to fix it by scraping some of the solder mask off the via near the pad that ripped off, so all is well, but others might not share my luck.

News:

Author Topic: Rama Works M60-A [SHIPPING] (Read 109094 times)