Wifes computer is having an issue I haven't seen yet.

[Melvang]

Alright guys, my wife's computer is doing some weird stuff.  It takes forever to load into windows, opening web browser or other program takes a while.  Even opening something like the web browser it takes a couple seconds for the window to come into full opacity and open.  The weird part is that her frame rates are completely unaffected in WoW.  Is it possible for the video card to die in a way that only affects 2d performance? 

specs are as follows.

Nvidia 560 Ti
Intel i5 second generation if I remember.  I bought it the same time I bought my 2600K when that was the newest family.
8 gig ram
Motherboard is a P8P67 LE. 

This started showing up fairly recently.  Though it seems to be getting slightly worse.  I tried digging in the nvidia control panel settings and didn't see much.  Though CPU-Z was reporting down to 50 mhz vid card proc speed at times for 2d applications and in desktop with WoW running minnimized.

[Belfong]

If it takes forever to load into windows, I don't think it is a gfx issue, you perhaps you are looking at the wrong direction. Probably something to do with memory or your HDD - is your HDD dying? Is it spinning a lot? Could it be the memory issue causing it to swap a lot more stuff into the HDD - also on HDD spinning - any antivirus scheduled to run?

[HPE1000]

Could be HDD, but my motherboard dying did that as well. Everything ran slow as hell until it finally just stopped posting.

[smknjoe]

Always start with a basic hardware scan first, RAM, HD, MB, with something like UBCD. You could also try booting in safe-mode to see how it runs. Okay in safe-mode, but slow on normal boot?...potential software/driver issue. Still slow in safe-mode?...probably a hardware issue.

[Melvang]

If it takes forever to load into windows, I don't think it is a gfx issue, you perhaps you are looking at the wrong direction. Probably something to do with memory or your HDD - is your HDD dying? Is it spinning a lot? Could it be the memory issue causing it to swap a lot more stuff into the HDD - also on HDD spinning - any antivirus scheduled to run?

The hdd doesn't seem to be spinning up more than usual but can't really hear it due to the fans in her PC being fairly loud and the fan on the gfx card is a higher pitched whine.  I could probably swap the memory in my PC for hers and see if the problem fixes in hers/follows into mine.  The only difference between my motherboard and hers is mine is the EVO and hers is the LE version.  I could probably buy a new HDD and just put it in.

Antivirus is not running as none is installed aside from default windows stuff on 7.  I have gone through her computer and deleted a bunch of programs she doesn't use and ran CCleaner, and spybot.

Could be HDD, but my motherboard dying did that as well. Everything ran slow as hell until it finally just stopped posting.

Yeah it does have issues on restarting or cold boot but it has done that since day one.  I just figured it to be a quirk with the board since my rig has CPU Fan errors about 2 out of 3 startups when I can see it is spinning.

[Melvang]

Always start with a basic hardware scan first, RAM, HD, MB, with something like UBCD. You could also try booting in safe-mode to see how it runs. Okay in safe-mode, but slow on normal boot?...potential software/driver issue. Still slow in safe-mode?...probably a hardware issue.

I will try this out.  What exactly is UBCD?  I haven't heard of this one.  I just remember trying to run MEMTEST 86 a while ago and for some reason I wouldn't run or I was just saving it to the disk wrong.

[smknjoe]

It's a bootable hardware diagnostic suite. Here is a link to the torrent file: http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/download/ubcd529.iso.torrent

Then download and install the Universal USB Installer to make the ISO bootable from USB. Here is the download: http://www.pendrivelinux.com/downloads/Universal-USB-Installer/Universal-USB-Installer-1.9.5.2.exe

Set your PC to boot off of the USB drive you made and run Memtest and HDD diagnostics for the brand of HDD you have.

[Melvang]

It's a bootable hardware diagnostic suite. Here is a link to the torrent file: http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/download/ubcd529.iso.torrent

Then download and install the Universal USB Installer to make the ISO bootable from USB. Here is the download: http://www.pendrivelinux.com/downloads/Universal-USB-Installer/Universal-USB-Installer-1.9.5.2.exe

Set your PC to boot off of the USB drive you made and run Memtest and HDD diagnostics for the brand of HDD you have.

Awesome thanks Joe.  I will do that this weekend

[smknjoe]

No problem and good luck. Memtest will run indefinitely. So, just let it run for about 5-15 minutes or to where is says it's 25%  complete. It will list errors if there is a problem. Then, run the HDD diagnostics specific to your brand of HDD. That usually takes 5 min. for a quick test. Those two tests will do a quick cursory test of about 90% of your hardware, including the MB, within a total of about 15 min. Full, or longer tests are not usually necessary unless you just want to be sure there is no problem (like with the HDD.) A full HDD test can take about an hour.

Edit: I also always test the PS with a PS tester that you can get for about $15 http://www.directron.com/ps228.html That's actually the very first thing I test when troubleshooting. It's amazing what a little variation in voltage can do to computers.

Assuming that all goes well with no errors (and the BIOS has not been modified more than necessary for basic functionality of your hardware config.)  boot into safe-mode (with networking) and it will probably work better than normal.

If this is true for you at this point you either have a software/driver problem (most likely) or you may still have a potential issue with the graphics card or MB which is much less likely and really only needs to be considered after all of the above has been checked. 

[kaz]

How does it run on integrated graphics?

[blackbox]

Any results in the weekend?

[Melvang]

Any results in the weekend?

Have not had a chance to.  I only had one day off last weekend.  This weekend I will be getting three but won't start until Sunday.  Will dig into it then.

[osi]

I'm assuming the rig in question has an HDD. Don't forget about the ol' defrag!

I see you cleaned it up with a few tools--that's a step in the right direction. My favorite oldy but goody defrag software is called 'MyDefrag', version 4.3.1.

Defrag  drive
Consolidate free space
Defrag drive again

Also how is your drive space utilization? If you are nearing capacity, it will affect performance as well.

Good luck

[eth0s]

Well, I just got here, but have we checked for virus or malware?  That would be first on my list of suspects.  Download free Malwarebytes from cnet site:  http://download.cnet.com/Malwarebytes-Anti-Malware/3000-8022_4-10804572.html

Also check for other software corruption, or simply download latest drivers for video, mobo, sound, etc.

Second thing to check is all power connectors, inside and outside of computer.  Make sure they are all connected good.

Third thing is check dust and overheating.

Fourth check PSU.

Fifth check for OCZ Brand anything.  If you have any OCZ crap in there, throw it out immediately.  If their crap hasn't failed yet, it will soon, so throw it out now.

If not PSU or virus or OCZ, then prolly mobo is failing.

Mobo failure is impossible to check, so Check RAM.

If not RAM, check HDD.

If not HDD, then prolly MOBO.

Make warranty claim for MOBO if within 3 years of purchase.

It is very unlikely that your GFX card is failing.  You would not be able to play 10 seconds of any video game with a failing GPU.  Well maybe 10 seconds, but not 10 minutes.  But if you want to be sure try running FurMark for 5 minutes.  Or try GFX card in another rig.

[Belfong]

One thing I learned from a recent mobo failure is that the power supply (PSU) is sometimes the culprit. In an era where we keep on upgrading the gfx or putting in new HDD, we forget that we need a good PSU to support these additional devices. Sure, it might seemed to be able to boot up but you are putting the PSU under stress and it will burn your component, especially motherboard.

You may have a 500W PSU, but that is just the marketing spec. The actual throughput could be likely 400W and by adding more gfx and HDD, it will create problem for you. My mobo burnt because of that. Sigh.

[Melvang]

One thing I learned from a recent mobo failure is that the power supply (PSU) is sometimes the culprit. In an era where we keep on upgrading the gfx or putting in new HDD, we forget that we need a good PSU to support these additional devices. Sure, it might seemed to be able to boot up but you are putting the PSU under stress and it will burn your component, especially motherboard.

You may have a 500W PSU, but that is just the marketing spec. The actual throughput could be likely 400W and by adding more gfx and HDD, it will create problem for you. My mobo burnt because of that. Sigh.

The PSU in her system is a PC Power and Cooling from their industrial line before they got bought.  This PSU pushed a GTX 280 plus 2 HDDs (one at 10k rpm), 2 sets of 12" CCFL's along with a dozen fans with no issues for about a year.  PC Power and Cooling wattage specs are with the PSU at 50°C.  Well, they used to be when this one was purchased.

[Belfong]

Your wife PC spec is more powerful than mine!
Time for me to upgrade!!

[Leslieann]

The PSU in her system is a PC Power and Cooling from their industrial line before they got bought.  This PSU pushed a GTX 280 plus 2 HDDs (one at 10k rpm), 2 sets of 12" CCFL's along with a dozen fans with no issues for about a year.  PC Power and Cooling wattage specs are with the PSU at 50°C.  Well, they used to be when this one was purchased.

I have the 750 watt version of that psu, it should be fine (fantastic PSU really). Nearly 10 years old and flawless.

Usually when a psu fails, you see it on other things first, I.E. a dead dvd-rom, dead hard drive, usb sticks start failing for no reason... The motherboard has on board power regulation, so it's usually the last to go.



I'm assuming you have done the malware testing.
I recommend Malware Bytes, Super Anti-Spyware, TDSSKiller and Combo Fix.
Beware, the latter two can be like using a sledgehammer to squash an ant. TDSSKiller is a rootkit tool and Combo Fix does a rather deep scan, while I haven't seen either do damage (yet), the way they work can bring a system down. If you aren't sure, skip those.


First thing, I would do is check the system temps.
Once you know that's fine,  before doing anything drive intensive, image the drive. On a failing drive, running a defrag can destroy it or at the very least the data. If I am extremely concerned for the drive, I copy out important documents and such before I even pull an image. Get the important stuff first. This way if the drive fails during imaging, you still have the most important things.

From this point  you have a few options, from easy to difficult:
Try a different sata cable, I have seen them go bad and do cause extremely slow speeds.
Try a defrag using Defraggler, it will not only defrag, but also tell you if there is a S.M.A.R.T. error, though that only works a1/10th of the time.
Test the memory.
Last resort, if you have a spare drive, image onto it and put that in and see what happens.

If that all shows good, odds are it's the mobo. The sata system may be failing.

[cultofjosh]

The PSU in her system is a PC Power and Cooling from their industrial line before they got bought.  This PSU pushed a GTX 280 plus 2 HDDs (one at 10k rpm), 2 sets of 12" CCFL's along with a dozen fans with no issues for about a year.  PC Power and Cooling wattage specs are with the PSU at 50°C.  Well, they used to be when this one was purchased.

I have the 750 watt version of that psu, it should be fine (fantastic PSU really). Nearly 10 years old and flawless.

Usually when a psu fails, you see it on other things first, I.E. a dead dvd-rom, dead hard drive, usb sticks start failing for no reason... The motherboard has on board power regulation, so it's usually the last to go.



I'm assuming you have done the malware testing.
I recommend Malware Bytes, Super Anti-Spyware, TDSSKiller and Combo Fix.
Beware, the latter two can be like using a sledgehammer to squash an ant. TDSSKiller is a rootkit tool and Combo Fix does a rather deep scan, while I haven't seen either do damage (yet), the way they work can bring a system down. If you aren't sure, skip those.


First thing, I would do is check the system temps.
Once you know that's fine,  before doing anything drive intensive, image the drive. On a failing drive, running a defrag can destroy it or at the very least the data. If I am extremely concerned for the drive, I copy out important documents and such before I even pull an image. Get the important stuff first. This way if the drive fails during imaging, you still have the most important things.

From this point  you have a few options, from easy to difficult:
Try a different sata cable, I have seen them go bad and do cause extremely slow speeds.
Try a defrag using Defraggler, it will not only defrag, but also tell you if there is a S.M.A.R.T. error, though that only works a1/10th of the time.
Test the memory.
Last resort, if you have a spare drive, image onto it and put that in and see what happens.

If that all shows good, odds are it's the mobo. The sata system may be failing.

Great advice here and in all the other posts. If there are no obvious signs of hardware failure, I always do the malware scans first. It's been my experience that 9 times out of 10, that's the issue. Even when there is paid and current antivirus running. If the slow down is huge, and it sounds like it is, it's unlikely to be a problem with disk fragmentation. Honestly, I would leave that until dead last. Lack of disk space is more likely, windows could be constantly adjusting your swap file trying to cope which just trashes the disk and slows everything down. If disk space is an issue, skip the defragging entirely until you've cleaned up the drive a bit, it will be much harder on the disk without a decent amount of free space to use for moving files around. It'll also probably take 10 times as long. I think. I haven't done my personal PC since I switched to SSDs (you shouldn't defrag SSDs)

I have a "silver" PC Power & Cooling at home, 650 or 750, I forget. Never had a problem with it. My work PC has a Corsair 1200 watt at the moment (maybe made by seasonic?) Needed something beefy to power my dual hex core xeons and dual r290x's

Didn't UBCD go commercial or am I thinking of something else? I guess I could be thinking of parted magic...