Author Topic: The Living Soldering Thread  (Read 1855698 times)

0 Members and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline SpAmRaY

  • NOT a Moderator
  • * Certified Spammer
  • Posts: 14667
  • Location: ¯\(°_o)/¯
  • because reasons.......
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1100 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 12:27:01 »
the lube and adapters cost 2$ to ship domestically. no need to wait on those. the rest of it will cost more to ship and you may want to batch that, but if you want lube and switches please just order them now ;)

i'm less busy right now ordering-wise, and i may have to change prices AGAIN (ugh) once the storefront goes up

Ok order placed!!

Offline Photekq

  • wheat flour zone
  • Posts: 4794
  • Location: North Wales, UK
  • sorry if i was ever an ******* to you
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1101 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 15:18:42 »
Diodes inside the switches made this soooo much harder.. 480 joints total




Totally worth the hours of work! These switches are a dream to press. The true (mx) "cloud of boobs" switch.
https://kbdarchive.org/
github
discord: hi mum#5710

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1102 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 16:03:56 »
Hi,

To people located in Europe (Luxemburg/France/Belgium/Germany area), where do you buy your soldering products?

I can't find the HAKKO FX-888D anywhere, and the prices on amazon are just ridiculous. For example, a Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen is $8.75 on amazon.com and €45 on amazon.de or amazon.fr. Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder is $41.58 on amazon.com and £133.36 on amazon.co.uk :(

Thanks


Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1103 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 16:31:28 »
Hi,

To people located in Europe (Luxemburg/France/Belgium/Germany area), where do you buy your soldering products?

I can't find the HAKKO FX-888D anywhere, and the prices on amazon are just ridiculous. For example, a Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen is $8.75 on amazon.com and €45 on amazon.de or amazon.fr. Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder is $41.58 on amazon.com and £133.36 on amazon.co.uk :(

Thanks

http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-HAKKO-FX-888D-ESD-Safe-Soldering-Station-Soldering-Iron-/151109825604?pt=DE_Haus_Garten_Heimwerker_Elektrowerkzeuge&var=&hash=item232ed8f444
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=kester+951&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dkester%2B951%26_arr%3D1

FX-888D and listings for the Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen.
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1104 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 16:34:07 »
http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-HAKKO-FX-888D-ESD-Safe-Soldering-Station-Soldering-Iron-/151109825604?pt=DE_Haus_Garten_Heimwerker_Elektrowerkzeuge&var=&hash=item232ed8f444
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=kester+951&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dkester%2B951%26_arr%3D1

FX-888D and listings for the Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen.

I'm afraid it's not that easy. Here is what I get (google translated):

Quote from: amazon.de
Due to legal requirements in some countries, access to this article was unfortunately locked. We have blocked your access to this article since we are obliged to restrict access to objectionable articles. It does happen that we make access lock offers, although the respective offer does not violate the law. This is due to technical limitations. We would like you to apologize for any resulting inconvenience and hope that you will find other interesting items on eBay.

Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1105 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 16:36:31 »
http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-HAKKO-FX-888D-ESD-Safe-Soldering-Station-Soldering-Iron-/151109825604?pt=DE_Haus_Garten_Heimwerker_Elektrowerkzeuge&var=&hash=item232ed8f444
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=kester+951&LH_PrefLoc=2&_arm=1&_armm=63&_ruu=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dkester%2B951%26_arr%3D1

FX-888D and listings for the Kester 951 Soldering Flux Pen.

I'm afraid it's not that easy. Here is what I get (google translated):

Quote from: amazon.de
Due to legal requirements in some countries, access to this article was unfortunately locked. We have blocked your access to this article since we are obliged to restrict access to objectionable articles. It does happen that we make access lock offers, although the respective offer does not violate the law. This is due to technical limitations. We would like you to apologize for any resulting inconvenience and hope that you will find other interesting items on eBay.

Wait, so you aren't able to view the listings? What part of EU are you from?
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1106 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 16:38:43 »
Luxemburg, but I often go to Belgium.

Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell


Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1110 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 17:11:25 »
I would have to pay $91.34 +  $25.18 (shipping) + $29.38 (taxes) = $145.9

What do you think about this? Is it as good as the Hakko recommended in this thread?

Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1111 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 17:14:46 »
I would have to pay $91.34 +  $25.18 (shipping) + $29.38 (taxes) = $145.9

What do you think about this? Is it as good as the Hakko recommended in this thread?

How much is it? It's recommended in this thread as well, so I assume it's pretty good. I don't have any personal experiences with it so I couldn't tell you.
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1112 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 17:27:11 »
I would have to pay $91.34 +  $25.18 (shipping) + $29.38 (taxes) = $145.9

What do you think about this? Is it as good as the Hakko recommended in this thread?

How much is it? It's recommended in this thread as well, so I assume it's pretty good. I don't have any personal experiences with it so I couldn't tell you.

€150.59 + €5-12 shipping, maybe a better alternative given that I'd have to pay almost the same price for the hakko.

Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1113 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 17:31:58 »
I would have to pay $91.34 +  $25.18 (shipping) + $29.38 (taxes) = $145.9

What do you think about this? Is it as good as the Hakko recommended in this thread?

How much is it? It's recommended in this thread as well, so I assume it's pretty good. I don't have any personal experiences with it so I couldn't tell you.

€150.59 + €5-12 shipping, maybe a better alternative given that I'd have to pay almost the same price for the hakko.

It's actually really cool that it has a built in smoke absorber, as well as the hot air gun.
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline mkawa

  •  No Marketplace Access
  • Posts: 6562
  • (ツ)@@@. crankypants
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1114 on: Wed, 11 September 2013, 23:28:20 »
lit is the only one who has really written extensively about the aoyue and his conclusion is that you should get a dedicated hot air, iron and whatever unit instead. he never uses anything but the iron, and it's a pretty so-so iron.

the smoke absorber is largely useless (although he did say he liked it), it doesn't really do much to absorb the smoke, it just disperses it away from you. see my DIY smoke absorber thread to see why. a reasonable absorption unit needs at least 5lbs of activated charcoal, regularly changed, and a fan that moves enough air to actually draw the smoke away from your station. you also want low velocity and maximum pressure through the actual charcoal, which needs to be granulated ionized carbon and not just "carbon impregnated filter medium". the latter is completely worthless.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline pixel5

  • Posts: 308
  • Location: Texas
    • pixel5
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1115 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 10:02:10 »
I just bought a Helping hands + magnifying glass + LED light + iron holder combo on amazon. My project is getting closer and closer to takeoff. GET HYPE.

Still need to buy a new tip for my iron and some solder. I'm probably just going to go to radioshack for those.
Poker II

Quickfire Rapid
BUY MY CRAP

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1116 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 11:20:52 »
lit is the only one who has really written extensively about the aoyue and his conclusion is that you should get a dedicated hot air, iron and whatever unit instead. he never uses anything but the iron, and it's a pretty so-so iron.

the smoke absorber is largely useless (although he did say he liked it), it doesn't really do much to absorb the smoke, it just disperses it away from you. see my DIY smoke absorber thread to see why. a reasonable absorption unit needs at least 5lbs of activated charcoal, regularly changed, and a fan that moves enough air to actually draw the smoke away from your station. you also want low velocity and maximum pressure through the actual charcoal, which needs to be granulated ionized carbon and not just "carbon impregnated filter medium". the latter is completely worthless.

Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll buy the hakko then, or a Weller station if I can find an affordable one.

I had a look at your DIY smoke absorber. Really nice and easy to build. Question: how often do you replace the activated charcoal?


Offline Thimplum

  • * Esteemed Elder
  • Posts: 1101
  • Master of all Ponies
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1117 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 11:42:04 »
I just bought a Helping hands + magnifying glass + LED light + iron holder combo on amazon. My project is getting closer and closer to takeoff. GET HYPE.

yaayyay! What project is it?
TP4 FOR ADMIN 2013

Offline mkawa

  •  No Marketplace Access
  • Posts: 6562
  • (ツ)@@@. crankypants
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1118 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 11:47:42 »
lit is the only one who has really written extensively about the aoyue and his conclusion is that you should get a dedicated hot air, iron and whatever unit instead. he never uses anything but the iron, and it's a pretty so-so iron.

the smoke absorber is largely useless (although he did say he liked it), it doesn't really do much to absorb the smoke, it just disperses it away from you. see my DIY smoke absorber thread to see why. a reasonable absorption unit needs at least 5lbs of activated charcoal, regularly changed, and a fan that moves enough air to actually draw the smoke away from your station. you also want low velocity and maximum pressure through the actual charcoal, which needs to be granulated ionized carbon and not just "carbon impregnated filter medium". the latter is completely worthless.

Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll buy the hakko then, or a Weller station if I can find an affordable one.

I had a look at your DIY smoke absorber. Really nice and easy to build. Question: how often do you replace the activated charcoal?


i currently have two large FRB based boxes with two different venting patterns. each large FRB holds about 10lbs of charcoal. i suspect i'll change the charcoal at about the 6-8 month mark. but i have not only solder fumes but abs vapors from the printer and solvent vapors so ymmv. activated charcoal is also washable. soaking it in warm water with a mild detergent will actually start unclogging granules, which will hold aromatic crap again once unclogged. that said, a lot of rinsing is involved, and at the price i get my charcoal at (1$/lb), i don't really care enough to wash anything.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline pixel5

  • Posts: 308
  • Location: Texas
    • pixel5
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1119 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 12:26:29 »
I just bought a Helping hands + magnifying glass + LED light + iron holder combo on amazon. My project is getting closer and closer to takeoff. GET HYPE.

yaayyay! What project is it?

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48156.0
Poker II

Quickfire Rapid
BUY MY CRAP

Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1120 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 17:13:25 »
Are soldering guns bad for working with keyboards? I found a Weller 8200pk and am wondering how good it would work for soldering diodes and switches. I feel like maybe 100/140W may be too high for electronic work.
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline MJ45

  • HHKB Pro
  • Posts: 530
  • Location: Chicagoland
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1121 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 17:53:53 »
Are soldering guns bad for working with keyboards? I found a Weller 8200pk and am wondering how good it would work for soldering diodes and switches. I feel like maybe 100/140W may be too high for electronic work.
[/quote
Soldering guns would be the worst thing you could use. I would not use one at all on keyboards or any electronics.

Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1122 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 18:07:54 »
Are soldering guns bad for working with keyboards? I found a Weller 8200pk and am wondering how good it would work for soldering diodes and switches. I feel like maybe 100/140W may be too high for electronic work.
[/quote
Soldering guns would be the worst thing you could use. I would not use one at all on keyboards or any electronics.
Alright, guess I'll be on the lookout for a soldering iron again.
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline PointyFox

  • Posts: 1193
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1123 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 18:27:51 »
I use soldering guns all the time for electronics.  Just not things with PCBs though.  Just point to point.

Offline dragonxx21

  • Posts: 471
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1124 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 18:51:02 »
I use soldering guns all the time for electronics.  Just not things with PCBs though.  Just point to point.
I see, I was hoping I would be able to use it for PCB work, but doesn't seem like that's possible.
Keyboards Owned:

Realforce Topre 91 Key JIS Profile - Main
CM Quickfire Rapid Blue Switches
IBM Model M in Industrial Shell

Offline jdcarpe

  • * Curator
  • Posts: 8852
  • Location: Odessa, TX
  • Live long, and prosper.
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1125 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 20:17:19 »
I just soldered my SmallFry Keyboard prototype PCB using the Yihua. It's not quite the quality of my Hakko FX-888D, but it's definitely usable. Seems to heat up quickly and maintain temperature. Recovery time is slower than the 888, but it's not terrible. I could see using this as a primary station, if I didn't already own the 888.
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


in memoriam

"When I was a kid, I used to take things apart and never put them back together."

Offline tjcaustin

  • King Klaxon
  • * Maker
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 3557
  • Location: Dallas-ish
  • King of All Klaxon Sciences and Cable Makery
    • Buy stuff
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1126 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 20:22:15 »
For the couple of you that are international and needing a good budget iron, PM me if you'd like for me to proxy you one of the yihuas.

Offline Photekq

  • wheat flour zone
  • Posts: 4794
  • Location: North Wales, UK
  • sorry if i was ever an ******* to you
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1127 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 20:26:36 »
https://kbdarchive.org/
github
discord: hi mum#5710

Offline PointyFox

  • Posts: 1193
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1128 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 21:07:33 »

Offline tjcaustin

  • King Klaxon
  • * Maker
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 3557
  • Location: Dallas-ish
  • King of All Klaxon Sciences and Cable Makery
    • Buy stuff
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1129 on: Thu, 12 September 2013, 21:08:57 »
As a note, for me to ship, it'd be $25 - 40 on top of the price you see.  I don't know how many people that will still benefit, but there you go.

Offline kaiserreich

  • HHKB Elite
  • Posts: 880
  • Location: Malaysia
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1130 on: Fri, 13 September 2013, 03:44:06 »
Anyone can get a FX888 from a reputable Taobao reseller. 220V-240V version.
They cost $80 before shipping + Agent fees + shipping.

Offline SpAmRaY

  • NOT a Moderator
  • * Certified Spammer
  • Posts: 14667
  • Location: ¯\(°_o)/¯
  • because reasons.......
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1131 on: Fri, 13 September 2013, 06:57:35 »
Anyone can get a FX888 from a reputable Taobao reseller. 220V-240V version.
They cost $80 before shipping + Agent fees + shipping.

Are those legit hakkos? or are they just clones?

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1132 on: Fri, 13 September 2013, 08:18:40 »
Are those legit hakkos? or are they just clones?

It seems that some of the items listed on taobao have good reviews (google chrome translation helps). I don't know if this is a "legit" price 440 yuan = 72 dollars.

I've PM'd qtan to know if his taobao proxy service also works for soldering stations.
« Last Edit: Sun, 15 September 2013, 08:59:07 by Grobalo »

Offline kaiserreich

  • HHKB Elite
  • Posts: 880
  • Location: Malaysia
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1133 on: Fri, 13 September 2013, 13:09:36 »
Anyone can get a FX888 from a reputable Taobao reseller. 220V-240V version.
They cost $80 before shipping + Agent fees + shipping.

Are those legit hakkos? or are they just clones?

Here are some teardown pics I posted a few months back
Seller link: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z09.5.0.0.RbbT8A&id=13430939975
It looks pretty legit to me.

Can Tjcaustin put a link at the First post for those seeking for 220V-240V FX888D for Cheaps?
This version is very expensive elsewhere

Comparison to a FX888D from other sources
http://runawaybrainz.blogspot.com/2013/03/hakko-fx-888d-solder-station-hi-res.html

More






« Last Edit: Fri, 13 September 2013, 13:15:27 by kaiserreich »

Offline mkawa

  •  No Marketplace Access
  • Posts: 6562
  • (ツ)@@@. crankypants
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1134 on: Fri, 13 September 2013, 22:31:50 »
one of the dangers of buying grey market eg via taobao.is that you.may g err t a unit that was either made on extra shift and did not pass wc or didn't pass qc regardless.I've bought stuff like.stuffed animals this way but I wouldn't cheap out on a soldering iron for the price difference

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline pixel5

  • Posts: 308
  • Location: Texas
    • pixel5
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1135 on: Sat, 14 September 2013, 11:04:45 »
I just got this awesome multimeter at goodwill for $0.99. Works perfectly!

Poker II

Quickfire Rapid
BUY MY CRAP

Offline kaiserreich

  • HHKB Elite
  • Posts: 880
  • Location: Malaysia
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1136 on: Sat, 14 September 2013, 13:27:58 »
For what it's worth, the seller of the solder station also sells other hakko stations at full price.

However, the unit was made in 2012.3 and I read that newer Hakkos have some improvement at chinese message boards talking about whether these units are genuine or not. What I am interpreting out of this,is that hakko is dumping these units in the chinese markets, and selling them for cheaps, as they lack some qc or feature compared to newer models.

The dumping info is my interpretation, but the "older" model lack of feature comes from a seller who sources his parts from the chinese hakko distributor. I am taking his word for it. Mine even makes the "signature" fx888 buzzing noise, occasionally


On a side note, i got some fluxclene and this thing just cleans everything so easily.
« Last Edit: Sat, 14 September 2013, 13:34:20 by kaiserreich »

Offline PointyFox

  • Posts: 1193
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1137 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 00:57:02 »
I just got this awesome multimeter at goodwill for $0.99. Works perfectly!

Show Image


You got a great deal on that $3 multimeter.

Offline StrikeEagleCC

  • Posts: 31
  • Location: Pyeongtaek, ROK
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1138 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 06:21:24 »
I just got this awesome multimeter at goodwill for $0.99. Works perfectly!

Show Image


You got a great deal on that $3 multimeter.

LOL. There's something great about watching the needle jump though.
A better example of how your keyboard works:
More
It's expandable and ~25 seconds long.



Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1139 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 07:35:01 »
So I am trying to solder some wires onto a connector that has solder cups on the one side of things.  Any suggestions for getting the wires down into the cups for a good connection?

A couple of the wires are a little large for them.  Can I just split off a couple of the strands and cut so they fit down in a bit better?  I do have a "helping hands" for holding the connector but I still don't have 7 hands for everything.

Tips or suggestions very much welcome.

Edit:  StrikeEagleCC  What aircraft is that in your avatar?
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline jdcarpe

  • * Curator
  • Posts: 8852
  • Location: Odessa, TX
  • Live long, and prosper.
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1140 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 08:46:03 »
Edit:  StrikeEagleCC  What aircraft is that in your avatar?

I'm guessing it's an F-15E Strike Eagle. And that he's a crew chief for said aircraft. :)
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


in memoriam

"When I was a kid, I used to take things apart and never put them back together."

Offline mkawa

  •  No Marketplace Access
  • Posts: 6562
  • (ツ)@@@. crankypants
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1141 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 09:12:08 »
melvang, pics?

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline StrikeEagleCC

  • Posts: 31
  • Location: Pyeongtaek, ROK
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1142 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 11:55:32 »
I'm guessing it's an F-15E Strike Eagle. And that he's a crew chief for said aircraft. :)
Yup, I was. I don't turn wrenches on it anymore though. Regardless of opinions about it's usage, it's one incredible machine.

So I am trying to solder some wires onto a connector that has solder cups on the one side of things.  Any suggestions for getting the wires down into the cups for a good connection?

A couple of the wires are a little large for them.  Can I just split off a couple of the strands and cut so they fit down in a bit better?  I do have a "helping hands" for holding the connector but I still don't have 7 hands for everything.

 Solder cups are a little tricky to begin with, but you'll soon get the hang of them. They can easily be done with 2 regular hands and your helping hands.

1.    Measure, strip, and tin the end of  your wire. You should strip enough of the wire so that when the wire is bottomed out in the cup, there is some clearance between the start of the insulation and the top of the cup (about one wire diameter's worth).
35532-0

2.    Take a length of solder, fold it in half once or twice to increase it's thickness, and twist it to form a multi-strand wire. Snip a bit of this off and drop it into the solder cup.
35534-1

3.    Then, lay your iron's chisel tip against the outside of the cup until the solder melts. While the solder is molten, insert your pre-tinned wire at an angle. in one movement, straighten the wire and force it down into the cup. Try to keep the wire in contact with the highest point of the cup wall (this only applies if you're using cups that have a milled edge).
35536-2


The trick to all of this is to estimate the correct amount of solder so that it fills the cup completely but does not overflow. It's better to start with too little solder, because it's easier to add more than to clean up the mess that happens when it spills over.

If your wires are too large for the cup, then ideally, you should get different wires or cups. If that is not an option, I suppose you could clip a few strands to get it to fit. Be aware however, that by doing this, you will decrease the strength of the wire below that of even the now smaller portion. In many home projects, this is not an issue, but just keep in mind that it will be more prone to failure from flexing and vibration than if you had just used a smaller wire.
« Last Edit: Sun, 15 September 2013, 12:03:03 by StrikeEagleCC »
A better example of how your keyboard works:
More
It's expandable and ~25 seconds long.



Offline TheSoulhunter

  • Posts: 1169
  • Location: Euroland
  • Thorpelicious!
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1143 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 12:49:53 »
I'm guessing it's an F-15E Strike Eagle. And that he's a crew chief for said aircraft. :)

Indeed looks like the F-15 and the nick suggest model "E" aka. Strike Eagle

EDIT: Too late, lol

Offline pixel5

  • Posts: 308
  • Location: Texas
    • pixel5
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1144 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 13:16:24 »
Make fun of me all you want. I got that multimeter 66% off. I win.
Poker II

Quickfire Rapid
BUY MY CRAP

Offline mkawa

  •  No Marketplace Access
  • Posts: 6562
  • (ツ)@@@. crankypants
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1145 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 13:38:53 »
I'm guessing it's an F-15E Strike Eagle. And that he's a crew chief for said aircraft. :)
Yup, I was. I don't turn wrenches on it anymore though. Regardless of opinions about it's usage, it's one incredible machine.

So I am trying to solder some wires onto a connector that has solder cups on the one side of things.  Any suggestions for getting the wires down into the cups for a good connection?

A couple of the wires are a little large for them.  Can I just split off a couple of the strands and cut so they fit down in a bit better?  I do have a "helping hands" for holding the connector but I still don't have 7 hands for everything.

 Solder cups are a little tricky to begin with, but you'll soon get the hang of them. They can easily be done with 2 regular hands and your helping hands.

1.    Measure, strip, and tin the end of  your wire. You should strip enough of the wire so that when the wire is bottomed out in the cup, there is some clearance between the start of the insulation and the top of the cup (about one wire diameter's worth).
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

2.    Take a length of solder, fold it in half once or twice to increase it's thickness, and twist it to form a multi-strand wire. Snip a bit of this off and drop it into the solder cup.
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

3.    Then, lay your iron's chisel tip against the outside of the cup until the solder melts. While the solder is molten, insert your pre-tinned wire at an angle. in one movement, straighten the wire and force it down into the cup. Try to keep the wire in contact with the highest point of the cup wall (this only applies if you're using cups that have a milled edge).
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]

The trick to all of this is to estimate the correct amount of solder so that it fills the cup completely but does not overflow. It's better to start with too little solder, because it's easier to add more than to clean up the mess that happens when it spills over.

If your wires are too large for the cup, then ideally, you should get different wires or cups. If that is not an option, I suppose you could clip a few strands to get it to fit. Be aware however, that by doing this, you will decrease the strength of the wire below that of even the now smaller portion. In many home projects, this is not an issue, but just keep in mind that it will be more prone to failure from flexing and vibration than if you had just used a smaller wire.
what i would do with this kind of connector is actually mechanically secure the wire to the cup while soldering. take an alligator clip or clip on heatsink and secure the end of the stripped bit of wire to the upper end of the solder cup. then, solder as normal with the cup and wire secured in a work holder (and as everyone knows my favorite work holders are the panavise line). once your soldering is done, as long as you didn't heat the retaining part (the clippy bit) to joint temp, it will come right off, because it's not part of hte joint.



i assume that this kind of connect has an additional mechanically securing component that fits over the entire assembly. remember, the mantra of soldering is that solder joints are _electrical connections only_ a good joint has two parts, an electrical connection and a mechanical connection. the melted solder is _not_ a mechanical connection.

as far as cutting some of the wire off the strand to get it to fit, basically you will decrease the current capacity of the wire at the joint. if you're just cutting a few strands off, this is not a big deal. if it's like half the wire you should do some back of the envelope calcs to make sure you don't need those strands _at the joint_. current capacity of a wire is largely dependent on diameter. current capacity of a stranded wire is iirc the geometric sum of the diameters.

oh, some basic E&M for you. you can actually think of current carrying wire as a system of tubes. the equations are actually analogous to simple pressure calcs over tubing, but replace pressure with current. this is because electrical current is actually physical movement of electrons (or electron holes, depending on which direction is most comfortable for you to think about).

« Last Edit: Sun, 15 September 2013, 13:40:40 by mkawa »

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline StrikeEagleCC

  • Posts: 31
  • Location: Pyeongtaek, ROK
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1146 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 16:14:50 »
what i would do with this kind of connector is actually mechanically secure the wire to the cup while soldering. take an alligator clip or clip on heatsink and secure the end of the stripped bit of wire to the upper end of the solder cup. then, solder as normal with the cup and wire secured in a work holder (and as everyone knows my favorite work holders are the panavise line). once your soldering is done, as long as you didn't heat the retaining part (the clippy bit) to joint temp, it will come right off, because it's not part of hte joint.

using a tool to hold the wire in place while soldering it simplifies things a bit, but can potentially cause problems. If you position the wire, and then solder, the solder tends to form a "bubble", a skin at the top of the joint, and a gap of air underneath. If this happens, you will have a joint that may look normal, but is only half as mechanically or electrically secure as it could be.

A better example of how your keyboard works:
More
It's expandable and ~25 seconds long.



Offline Melvang

  • Exquisite Lord of Bumfluff
  • * Maker
  • Posts: 4398
  • Location: Waterloo, IA
  • Melvang's Desktop Customs
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1147 on: Sun, 15 September 2013, 18:54:21 »
Thanks for the help guys I will post some pics of what I am working with in the morning.
OG Kishsaver, Razer Orbweaver clears and reds with blue LEDs, and Razer Naga Epic.   "Great minds crawl in the same sewer"  Uncle Rich

Offline bpiphany

  • Posts: 1033
  • Location: Stockholm, Sweden
  • bpiph is a special type of crazy. //mkawa
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1148 on: Mon, 16 September 2013, 01:29:27 »
I again refer to Norman on soldering cups

Offline Grobalo

  • Posts: 16
  • Location: Luxemburg
Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #1149 on: Mon, 16 September 2013, 17:53:41 »
Sorry for the noob question, but tbh I never paid much attention to the solder I used so far.

I might have a good deal on kester solder 285 or 282 rosin core solder, 0.02in.

How is it compared to the 44 kester recommended in the OP?

Also, is it a problem if the solder is from 2006? :p

Thanks!