Soarer's WYSE Converter firmware

[Soarer]

Introduction

This firmware for Teensy 2.0 etc. aims to convert all WYSE terminal keyboards which have a 4P4C connector, to USB.

See Wyse keyboard protocol (4P4C) for more information about the protocol and the models that use it.

(There's also a thread for this project on DT).


Features

All of the configuration features of my XT/AT/PS2/122 Converter and my Keyboard Controller firmwares are supported (remapping, layers, macros etc).

At start-up, the converter automatically determines which WYSE keyboard is attached by reading an ID byte. Also, a basic check is performed to try and prevent damage in case the connector or cable has been wired in reverse.

LEDs on the keyboard are supported. PCE and AT-style have all 3 lock LEDs, whereas the 285 just has Caps and Scroll.

Hot-swapping of the keyboard is not supported, but might be in a future version. Until then, always connect the keyboard to the converter before connecting the converter to the computer.

Use hid_listen to see what the converter is doing - for example to diagnose any problems at start-up, to check key codes for remapping, etc.


Models supported

Model		Keys		Part Nos (old, new/white)		ID (hex)		Status
30		83		840013-01		01		Should work
60 ASCII		101		840338-01, 901867-01		41		Verified
60 ANSI		101		840338-09		41		Verified
60 3161		106		840338-02		04 (or 05/06/07)		Verified
85		105		840105-01		n/a (00)		Verified
85 Gate Array		105		840366-01, 901879-01		60		Should work
285/520		108		(841038-01), 901028-01		62		Verified
285/520 ANSI WPS		108		(841038-06), 901028-06		??		Might work
AT Standard		84		840275-04		02		Should work
PCE US, Grey		102		840358-01, (901865-01)		82		Verified
PCE Int'l, Grey		103		840362-01, (901866-01)		83		Verified
PCE US, White		102		840358-13		82		Verified
PCE Int'l, White		103		840362-04		83		Verified
PCE US		102		(841135-01), 901865-01		82		Should work
PCE Int'l		103		(841135-02), 901866-01		83		Should work

Note: WY85 is not the same as WY85 Gate Array - they're the same outside, but very different inside! I think WY85 Gate Array is the more common, and later, version.

For WY50 see here, and use my Controller firmware.


Connections



Note: this is looking at the front of the socket that you might fit to your converter. The socket on the keyboard (for those with a removable cable) is a mirror image of this diagram; the cable is wired as a 'cross-over' type.

For both ATmega32U4 and AT90USB1286, connect as follows:
Data -> PD0
Clock -> PD1
+5V -> VCC
GND -> GND

Lock LEDs can be wired to any Pxx pin, and defined in your config file. An example config is included which sets up lock LEDs which are active high on pins PD5 to PD7 (i.e. the same as my XT/AT/PS2/122 converter uses on ATmega32U4).

The 4P4C connector, is popularly, but incorrectly, called RJ22, RJ10, or RJ9. It is also commonly referred to as a handset connector because the most popular usage for the connector is to terminate both ends of a handset cord and it is the de facto standard for this application.

So, for the models with a removable cable, if you need a replacement cable, or want to hack a cable to make the converter, handset cables are easy to find and cheap.

There are also various handset adapters (for recording, etc.) that could be a good source of the correct socket already mounted on a PCB and boxed. Finding one with enough space to fit a Teensy or Pro Micro inside shouldn't be too hard. This method might well require some hacky wiring onto the connector's pins (but that would be hidden anyway), and of course removal of other components on the PCB or tracks cutting (probably trivial).

Beware that some handset adapters have an RJ11 (6P4C), which isn't what you want! I've no idea what they are for. It's difficult to tell 4P4C and 6P4C apart just by looking at the photo of an item.


Resistor

Resistor is optional if you don't want to use a WY85 (non-gate array).

WY85 (non-gate array) requires a pull-up resistor between Data and +5V. The ideal value is 2.2k, but any value between 1k and 4k should work fine. The pull-up resistor does not interfere with any other WYSE keyboard models.


Tools

Use the tools from my Keyboard Controller, v1.20 to assemble and write your config files to the converter.


Config

There are no new config commands or extensions to existing commands specific to the WYSE keyboards as yet, but there are some on the to-do list:

• extend the 'ifkeyboard' and the 'ifset' commands to cover the various models
• allow the pins used for Clock and Data to be specified
• add an option for the 285's Scroll lock LED to show Num lock status (or hard code it)

Downloads

ATmega32U4 (Teensy 2.0 etc) and AT90USB1286 (Teensy++ 2.0) are currently supported.

Note: if you are re-using a Teensy or other board, load the .hex before connecting a WYSE keyboard.

[bcg]

More evidence of Soarer's superpowers.

I think one night he was bitten by a radioactive keyboard while working late in the lab.

 

[jdcarpe]

Pure, unadulterated awesomeness. I need to make this. Now I just need a device to make more spare time for me.

[metalliqaz]

Awesome, time for me to get myself a teensy so I can get my PCE going!

[Soarer]

Thanks guys! Forget Christmas, find a 4P4C and get your geek on instead  )

I'm still not sure if the basic check to detect reverse wiring is going to be 100% reliable. It might in some cases tell you it's reverse wired when it isn't. So far I've only seen this on a PCE that I had removed the power smoothing capacitor from, but it might mean that the state of the scanner chip at power-up is undefined.

Adding a 1k pull-down resistor to clock and revising the firmware might fix it, but that would be a shame since at the moment no resistors are required except for the early WY85. Also, it currently seems to work fine if pull-ups are fitted to both clock and data, meaning the same hardware setup (with or without pullups) can be used for this and the XT/AT/PS2/122 converter, as long as care is taken to swap the firmware before attaching the keyboard.

I've also had a couple of cases of bad solder joints on the keyboard connector. This can give odd symptoms, to say the least! Simply resoldering them solved the problems.

[metalliqaz]

I just ordered a Teensy 2.0.  I'll be checking it with my US PCE in a few weeks.  I also have a PCB from a WY50 (I think) WY60.    If someone wants it just ask.

[Soarer]

In the unlikely event that someone posts pics of a working converter tomorrow, I might have to send them a present in return!

If that PCB is a WY50 it will have 4 small chips on it and a 12-pin header on the left for the cable, if it's a WY60 it will have the 28-pin scanner chip (I can't remember if 4 wires in the cable are soldered direct to the PCB, or if there's a header).

[metalliqaz]

I was wrong.  WY60

[kmiller8]

I wish I had gotten both teensies I ordered with my Phantom stuff, I would have gladly try this out. zzz

[whiskytango]

In the unlikely event that someone posts pics of a working converter tomorrow, I might have to send them a present in return!

If that PCB is a WY50 it will have 4 small chips on it and a 12-pin header on the left for the cable, if it's a WY60 it will have the 28-pin scanner chip (I can't remember if 4 wires in the cable are soldered direct to the PCB, or if there's a header).

I have teensy. I have wyse. Challenge accepted

[Soarer]

I have teensy. I have wyse. Challenge accepted

His body is ready.

To be in the spirit it really should be built tomorrow as well (but how would I know...).

It still counts if you have to take it apart afterwards and return the 4P4C to the phone you stole it from, so the family can dutifully make the yearly call to Aunt Doris to thank her for the tokens )

[whiskytango]

I'll just leave these here...



That is a working WYSE PCE 840358-01 and I used it to type this post. I had the biggest grin when this thing worked. Thanks Soarer!!!!!!

Edit: And yes, I did it all today (Christmas Day) I had to spend quite a while putting this board back together because I had robbed the stabilizers and some switches off of it previously. The caps have had a bath and a retrobrite session though and I think they came out ok.

[Soarer]

Haha, fantastic! True dedication to geekery Where did the 4P4C come from?

It's ironic that you, Destroyer of WYSEs, should be the first to recreate my WYSE-saver

BTW, what's a TO-300?

PM me your address

[metalliqaz]

Awesome!

[whiskytango]

Haha, fantastic! True dedication to geekery Where did the 4P4C come from?

It's ironic that you, Destroyer of WYSEs, should be the first to recreate my WYSE-saver

BTW, what's a TO-300?

PM me your address

I used a dremel tool and cut the corner off of a PCE PCB for the 4P4C. I have a very large stack of PCBs from my wyse destroying days. I'm actually probably going to rebuild some of those WYSE now that there is a converter, but I'll probably use different switches other than blacks.

A TO-300 is basically a rebranded WYSE PCE as near as I can tell. The layout is identical at any rate, not sure about the PCB though. However, the case was different than a PCE case. I only had one of these, and it was disassembled although I'm sure I still have the case and PCB somewhere. The odd thing though was that the keycaps are not normal WYSE colors. The legends are black, the modifiers are the same light gray as WYSE alphas, and the TO-300 alphas are more like an off-white color.

I'm planning on putting together a little case for this converter using some spare acrylic pieces I have here. It will be detachable on both ends. As you can see, I used the teensy breakout board designed by OldDataHands so I'll be able to mount the teensy, but the breakout board causes the USB socket to be very recessed in the case. I'm thinking of adding another USB breakout board like this one so that the USB socket will be closer to the edge of the enclosure.

[Soarer]

Ah right, I think I read something about a rebranded one when doing research, maybe it was the TO-300. Probably went in one eye and right out the other once I realised it was effectively an already known model! If you find the PCB and case please let me know part numbers etc. - we might as well add it to the model database, even if just as a footnote

You know, as I am typing this, I am realizing the downside of the limited KRO of the wyse. Whenever I type "I" and I hit the space bar while still holding down shift+i, the space doesn't register. Something I'll have to get used to, but I am still so pleased to be able to use the old wyse boards now.

Yes, it's unfortunate that they don't have diodes and have very dense matrix layouts, which means modifiers share rows/columns with various other keys. Mostly OK for typing, but for gaming it might take a while to find a good part of the keyboard to use instead of WASD. Can't remember which model it was now, but TFGH was the first inverted-T that I found which didn't block rolling over from left to right while pressing forwards.

[metalliqaz]

Huh, that's funny I didn't know they were so poor in the rollover department

[Soarer]

Fairly typical for an older 'board without diodes, really. Some WYSE have a better matrix than others - WY60 has the shifts on a column where the other keys are only rarely used, for example.

You could hand-wire one side of the matrix to add diodes and make it NKRO. Relatively easy to do on a single-sided PCB without taking it completely apart. But I guess for anyone going that far, replacing the scanner chip with a Teensy would be only a small step further! Adding diodes to just the shifts might help a little, but wouldn't completely solve the problem - they did that on the WY50.

[Ethaniel]

Awesome, I want to do that with one of mine, but our intrepid leaders (aka "customs") blocked my "not-quite-Teensys" and said "no chance". Now I have to find a local supplier and pay 10 times more. 

[metalliqaz]

Once again Soarer, thanks for making it dead-stupid easy to adapt my keyboards!

For posterity, here is the correct connections for using the cable from a WY60 as a patch cable to a PCE.


Now to mount it in a nice project box! 

[metalliqaz]

Done!





Confirmation that US PCE (840358-01) works!

One thing though... Caps/Scroll/Num Lock LEDs don't work.

[whiskytango]

@metalliqaz: looks great! I like that project box. Where did you get it?

Also, that's weird since my lock leds worked no problem using the same board and using soarer's firmware without modification.

[metalliqaz]

I got it at a local electronics store.  It's like the last of its kind that I know about.  Sort of like what Radio Shack used to be.  I would tell you the product name, but I threw out the packaging

When I plug it in, two of the LEDs illuminate until the keyboard is recognized in Windows, then they turn off forever.

When I initially put it together, I hooked the wires up all wrong... a couple times.  I hope I didn't fry it.  It still works, though, so I kinda doubt that is the case.

[whiskytango]

no worries, I actually just found a cheap little aluminum one on ebay that I bid on.

I also hooked mine up wrong at first. I got confused about what soarer said about the diagram being reversed. Since I used a socket on both ends, my converter side needed to be wired up just like the terminal would be in the diagram. Soarer, I think your wiring detection programming must work, because I hooked it up backwards and nothing fried. I couldn't believe I was such an idiot. I even studied the diagram forever and made drawings of my own, and I still managed to do it backwards the first time.

[Soarer]

Cool! A nice neat box

The 'bad wiring detection' is pretty basic, and is only meant to catch reversed wiring - connecting wires randomly could well result in damage. Although, quite a few combinations will simply result in too much power being drawn from the USB, and hopefully the host will just shut down the port.

I think the way akurz draws the modular connectors is also a bit confusing, since they are upside-down compared to how they are when mounted on a PCB!

[metalliqaz]

Like I said I'm pretty sure nothing is fried since things are mostly working.  I can perhaps get in there with a meter

[Pacifist]

Would a box like this work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Aluminum-Project-Box-Enclousure-Case-Electronic-With-Screw-/190978962451?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c773bb413

[Soarer]

Like I said I'm pretty sure nothing is fried since things are mostly working.  I can perhaps get in there with a meter

Oh, no, I was just clarifying. You're fine if it works   'Damage' would most likely be a dead PD1 pin on the Teensy.

[Soarer]

Confirmation that US PCE (840358-01) works!

One thing though... Caps/Scroll/Num Lock LEDs don't work.

That's very odd, they should work! Are they always on, always off, or something random?

Would a box like this work?

It would, but of course you'd have to work out how to mount the parts inside still, and make sure they didn't short out on the metal!

[metalliqaz]

Sorry dude, false alarm.  The LEDs work fine.  I obviously wasn't very thorough while testing it.  The problem is that my Caps LED is dead.

[Soarer]

Tsk! I'll mark it as verified then

[whiskytango]

Sorry dude, false alarm.  The LEDs work fine.  I obviously wasn't very thorough while testing it.  The problem is that my Caps LED is dead.

Pm me if you need a replacement led

[Soarer]

Can either of you with the PCE US please confirm that its ID is 82? It should be printed to hid_listen at startup.

[whiskytango]

Can either of you with the PCE US please confirm that its ID is 82? It should be printed to hid_listen at startup.

Roger that. It says ID: 82



Hey soarer, can you make me a version of your teensy firmware that will make the LED on it stay on when powered? Also, I am a little fuzzy (read: I have no clue) how to do the config files for this? I can add layers, correct? Like an fn layer?

[Soarer]

Thanks for that - one more thing ticked off as verified!

On most of my breadboards I have an LED (and resistor) wired to power and ground to remind me when power is on... why not just do that? Otherwise, in some future version there will probably be settings to say which pin to use for the error LED, and at that point I could also add one for power (and/or USB active or whatever).

Yes, layers and macros etc are supported. There's a few example configs in with my XT/AT/PS2/122 converter, and in those threads - configs for the XT or AT are likely to include layers in some form. You will definitely want the docs from that converter!

[dorkvader]

WY-30 PCB photos (uploading now)

I plan to wire up a teensy sometime soon

Set:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/110970257@N08/sets/72157639569020476/

I always thought the matrix for this kb was "unnecessarily complicated". I mean look at those traces!

[Soarer]

Lovely, thanks!

Single-sided PCBs do get complicated, especially when the number of wire links is minimised.

[Soarer]

Here's a thing... not sure exactly what it is, but it's an actual WYSE adapter cable, part number 920151-01, that looks like it might have room for a Teensy or Pro Micro inside

It's used with a Terminal 370.

GB?

[metalliqaz]

Wow

[Tarzan]

Here's a thing... not sure exactly what it is, but it's an actual WYSE adapter cable, part number 920151-01, that looks like it might have room for a Teensy or Pro Micro inside

It's used with a Terminal 370.

GB?

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

That's a neat little case!  What are you thinking; Teensy controller inside, replace the 4P4C connector out with a USB cable?  I can't tell from the package picture, what size connector does it convert from?

Based on my approach of always getting adapters, because... well, just because; I'd be interested in a few of these.  What I really need is a replacement cable for one of the Wyse keyboards with that round multi-pin connector, but I think I can replicate your wiring to make one somehow.

[Soarer]

I really don't know what the purpose of that adapter is... since it's in a PDF along with a WYSE terminal, and WYSE keyboard part numbers, why would they need an adapter?! Even if it's not a 4P4C socket, it is possible to fit a 4P4C socket to a PCB designed for a larger modular connector, by filing the mounting holes for the two plastic pins inwards. I wouldn't count on the Teensy's USB socket lining up with that cable exit, but you never know, it might. Or even that a Teensy will fit!

So it's a bit of a gamble, but worst case is that it could still be used as a trailing 4P4C socket. I'd take 2 or 3 anyway, if the seller will take a reasonable offer. Maybe just get a small batch of them first to check them out.

For the WY50, I'd probably just fit a Teensy (or Pro Micro) inside the keyboard to make life easy!

[dorkvader]

I think JWAZ might have one of the magic WYSE adapter boxes, but I dont know what exactly it's supposed to do.

Mouser has some sweet spaceconnection dongle boxes that are small and excellent for converter boxes. I'm using mine with a locking terminal connector for a model F 122 right now.

[Melvang]

Alright guys.  Any idea what what exactly I have here?  The outside of the case says Link but everything inside says WYSE.  Here are a couple shots of the part numbers from opposite sides of the PCB.

[Soarer]

That's a WY-60 ASCII PCB

[Melvang]

That's a WY-60 ASCII PCB

So this converter method will work, correct?

I am wondering if there is enough room in the case for the teensy.

I got the caps off and was looking around and thought "hey I could just drop the PCB and hand wire the matrix that way.  Until I saw the PCB mount cherry stabs on the space bar.

[Soarer]

Yep, it'll work   Teensy might fit inside the case... stuck on top of the PCB perhaps.

[Melvang]

Now to find the most dummied down teensy reflash tutorial.  along with figuring out which two pins the +5V and GND to use are.  There are 2 labeled GND and none labeled +5V.  This is also my first keyboard mod using a Teensy so I am still new in this department.  Would like to get it figured out before I move onto my hand wired matrix build.

[dorkvader]

Now to find the most dummied down teensy reflash tutorial.  along with figuring out which two pins the +5V and GND to use are.  There are 2 labeled GND and none labeled +5V.  This is also my first keyboard mod using a Teensy so I am still new in this department.  Would like to get it figured out before I move onto my hand wired matrix build.

vcc in the top right of teensy is same as the +5V from USB. GND at the front across from is is same as USB GND. I read 0.6 ohms between the two GND pads, so either can be used, provided you aren't running high current (you aren't).

As far as flashing firmware onto the teensy, I tried to get the ergodox firmware on mine (using the teensy_loader app) for like a week before I desoldered the teensy and gave up. so I can't help you there. I'd love to actually use my 0.5 ergodox someday, but I'll have to figure out how to put firmware on it first. Right now, I'm thinking of just remapping someone else's teensy firmware with the ergodox matrix / layout.

[whiskytango]

I got a little bit fancier with my converter. A little overbuilt, but it was fun. It is completely detachable. I need to clean up the USB side hole, but here she is:



and then I added this:

[Pacifist]

Dam these Wyses look good

I may have to get one for myself and make it work

[whiskytango]

well jd is doing another teensy group buy, and if one were to hurry, he might get an order submitted in time.

[jdcarpe]

well jd is doing another teensy group buy, and if one were to hurry, he might get an order submitted in time.

And where might I get a parts list for your build there? That thing is amazing!

[Pacifist]

well jd is doing another teensy group buy, and if one were to hurry, he might get an order submitted in time.

Already have 2 ordered and paid

[Melvang]

I got a little bit fancier with my converter. A little overbuilt, but it was fun. It is completely detachable. I need to clean up the USB side hole, but here she is:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

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Amazing.  I How do you like that teensy break out board?

[whiskytango]

I did not buy all of these specifically for this converter, but I had them so I used them. Main parts:

• teensy 2.0
• teensy breakout board designed by ODH and melvang and ordered from OSHPark
• 4P4C socket that I cut off of a WYSE PCB with a dremel
• sparkfun USB mini-B breakout board so that I could get the USB socket close to the edge of the enclosure
• Aluminum project enlcosure from ebay

I also used some screws and standoffs:

• Brass standoffs from ebay
• M3x6mm screws from ebay

EDIT: Oh yeah, and I had some of these DIY USB connectors which I used to make a short little cable to go from the sparkfun breakout board to the teensy.

I cut up some more of the WYSE PCB to have something to mount everything on. That project box has slots on the sides for a PCB to slide in.

For the 4P4C connector, it would have been too tall with standoffs, so Icut up some foam shelf liner and put three layers of it between the bottom PCB and the connector PCB for a cushion, and then I screwed it to the bottom piece of PCB with m3x8mm screws and some spare M3 dome nuts from one of MOZ's cases.

Oh, and obviously I had to drill my own holes in everything 

Amazing.  I How do you like that teensy break out board?

I really liked using the teensy breakout board. Such a great idea you had there. This is the first thing I have found to use it on. I'm really not sure how I would have mounted the teensy without it. I guess using a bread board like metalliqaz did would have been the best. I think his converter box looks really sharp. I wanted mine to be completely detachable though, and I also like the idea of not having to plug the USB cable directly into the teensy so as not to stress the solder joints on it. If the breakout board fails, it was very cheap and will probably be easier to fix or replace than the teensy.
 
ETA: @melvang, if the teensy breakout board ever gets a redesign, maybe you should consider having the mounting holes so that you could mount it close to the edge of whatever enclosure it is in so that the USB socket is more accessible. Just a thought. That is the main reason I had to use a second breakout board here.

[Melvang]

Nice idea there.  I think there might be enough room if you use motherboard standoffs to put the teensy on the bottom of the breakout board.  Just eyeballing it it should fit but I know what you are saying.  ODH actually did all the Kicad work on it.  All I really did was promoted the idea and then got the pieces made from OshPark.

[whiskytango]

Yeah, i think it will fit on the bottom no problem. But I was thinking that the whole thing could be made shorter and wider so that the mounting holes are out to the sides.

Also, I think I just made this thing even more awesome:

[Melvang]

I see what you are saying.  Problem is I have no idea how to work Kicad.

[Soarer]

Show Image

That's a nice touch! :D

[ebacho]

Hey all.  I was poking around ebay earlier and found these; the connector looks like nothing I've seen on WYSE thus far, and it has alps instead of cherry switches.  If anyone has anymore information on it that'd be interesting, at the very least.

[Soarer]

The connector is the same as a WY50, but the layout is certainly not! It ought to be possible to make it work by removing the cable and using my Controller firmware in the same way as the WY50, although of course the key mappings will be different.

[noisufnoc]

Just finished mine, I'll probably clean up the connection though.  I like the project box idea.

Project Photos: http://imgur.com/a/Ubg1A
Obligitory demo video:

[mougrim]

Found where I can buy Teensy 2.0 in my country. As I have spare WYSE board, why not?

But I want elaborate about socket. When I'll plug cable into socket on by board, lines on them (if I look front into socket on board) will be mirrored? So where are "data" line on pic will be "ground" and vice versa?

[whiskytango]

Found where I can buy Teensy 2.0 in my country. As I have spare WYSE board, why not?

But I want elaborate about socket. When I'll plug cable into socket on by board, lines on them (if I look front into socket on board) will be mirrored? So where are "data" line on pic will be "ground" and vice versa?

Yes, I think that is correct.

[dorkvader]

I still need a source of 4p4c connectors that I can mount easily. This is thus far proving to be the hardest part. Maybe I'll just get some cables and cut the ends off.

[whiskytango]

I still need a source of 4p4c connectors that I can mount easily. This is thus far proving to be the hardest part. Maybe I'll just get some cables and cut the ends off.

I have a bunch of pcbs with 4p4c connectors. I just cut the corner off of one and used it as you can see in my pics somewhere above. PM me if you want to get some of these from me.

[mougrim]

I still need a source of 4p4c connectors that I can mount easily. This is thus far proving to be the hardest part. Maybe I'll just get some cables and cut the ends off.

This is my primary source of the connectors - old modem cables, etc.

[whiskytango]

Look Ma, no external converter box!

[Melvang]

Look Ma, no external converter box!

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Very nice.

On a side note, I have that exact speaker setup connected to my PS3 in the living room.  Great speakers for home audio on a very strict budget (if you can find them anymore).

[whiskytango]

Look Ma, no external converter box!

Show Image

Very nice.

On a side note, I have that exact speaker setup connected to my PS3 in the living room.  Great speakers for home audio on a very strict budget (if you can find them anymore).

Cool. Yeah, somebody gave me those speakers, but I like them, mostly because of the big volume knob which is not directly attached to one of the speakers.

Also, you might be interested to know that I mounted a pro micro in that WYSE board using one of the original teensy breakout boards from OSH Park that you had the idea for. There was just barely enough room for it to be mounted. At some point I will take pictures and post, but I forgot to take any before I put the whole thing back together.

[echo0]

Confirmation that it works with WY30 (840013-01).  Thanks...   

[Faithfool]

For both ATmega32U4 and AT90USB1286, connect as follows:
Data -> PD0
Clock -> PD1
+5V -> VCC
GND -> GND

what about Pro Micro?

[metalliqaz]

Here is the pinout:


Not sure where PD0 is routed on that thing, but you should be able to trace it yourself.

[Igthorn]

From Soarer's post on DT

[dorkvader]

For both ATmega32U4 and AT90USB1286, connect as follows:
Data -> PD0
Clock -> PD1
+5V -> VCC
GND -> GND

what about Pro Micro?

Show Image

I just made one the other day. Data is 3 clock is 2. I might as well post pictures now.

From scottc at DT



Here's mine: works great and I love it. It's the best keyboard for playing frets on fire with as F1-F5 can all be pressed simultaneously without blocking.


full album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dork_vader/sets/72157646129699654/

The thick solid core red & black wires are threaded through the pcb for rigidity (they keep the microcontroller in place quite well)

[Faithfool]

Someone can explain it to me how to make it work step by step for "newbie".

I have got everything soldered, installed driver for Pro Micro.
Now what? :/

@edit
btw. I'm using Windows

[dorkvader]

I followed this guide:
http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/how-to-use-a-pro-micro-as-a-cheap-controller-converter-like-soarer-s-t8448.html

Once you have the driver, you need to get the pro micro into bootloader mode. Open a command prompt and the device manager for windows. Bridge the boot pin to the USB case twice and then wait. It should change devices to a new USB serial port and then change back a few seconds later. Remember what one it was.

Then download the flashing program and then on the command line type out the command to flash it. I renamed my HEX file to "SW130.hex" be easier to type

I put the firmware in c:\kb\soarer. In my case the command looked like this:

Code: [Select]

avrdude -p atmega32u4 -P COM4  -c avr109  -U flash:w:SW130.hex
Don't press enter yet. Instead put the pro micro in USB boot mode again by bridging the boot pin to the USB port twice with a wire (paperclip works). click on the CMD window and press enter. It should work.

Once the FW is on there you can use soarer's tools SCAS and SCWR (and SCASWR in windows) to write the new layout to the KB.

---
I'll go through this after dinner and edit it to be more of a guide.

[Faithfool]

...to write the new layout to the KB.

I'm on that step, don't know what to do next.

I do not know anything about it.

[dorkvader]

So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.

So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc

Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:

Code: [Select]

scas wy30.sc wy30.scbNow there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmware

Code: [Select]

scwr wy30.scbSince you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.

Code: [Select]

scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.

Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computer

Code: [Select]

scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and edit

Code: [Select]

scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.

Code: [Select]

# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end

# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end

# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end

# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end

# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.

[Rexxed]

I've been away from the site for a while so I didn't see this until last week.  I've had a WYSE terminal keyboard and a Teensy 2.0 sitting around for a couple of years and I had been thinking I would have to replace the onboard controller to get the keyboard working with a PC, but thanks to this firmware it works perfectly with the teensy as an adapter.  I'll have to stop being lazy and finish the retrobrite job I started on the case.  It's from the 80s so it needs a lot of work reduce the yellow and get it back towards the original grey.

Thanks a ton, Soarer!

[dorkvader]

I've been away from the site for a while so I didn't see this until last week.  I've had a WYSE terminal keyboard and a Teensy 2.0 sitting around for a couple of years and I had been thinking I would have to replace the onboard controller to get the keyboard working with a PC, but thanks to this firmware it works perfectly with the teensy as an adapter.  I'll have to stop being lazy and finish the retrobrite job I started on the case.  It's from the 80s so it needs a lot of work reduce the yellow and get it back towards the original grey.

Thanks a ton, Soarer!

Glad you got it working!

Me, I'm too lazy to clean it. Mine's not even yellowed, it's just got dirt on it. I've been too busy using it

[Faithfool]

PCB inscription:
"WYSE TECHNOLOGY 1986"
990137- 01
REV A1
CPC-49



still not working, dont know what to do next ;/

[Faithfool]

dbl post

[dorkvader]

I will have to check to be sure but it looks like you are using soarer's converter firmware for IBM terminal and PS/2 instead of soarer's wyse converter firmware.

You can check by running the "scinfo" command.

You need the firmware from the post in this thread and the "tools" from the firmware in the other thread.

reflash the teensy with the .HEX file in this thread, then test it again and if it works (with the default layout), then remap it with a new layout using scaswr.

[Faithfool]

Keyboard is working

Thanks for everything!

[Faithfool]

I have issue with this converter, or with my keyboard. I can't press 4 buttons at once. In gaming it matters in typing not really .

Is there any way to solve this?

[metalliqaz]

I have issue with this converter, or with my keyboard. I can't press 4 buttons at once. In gaming it matters in typing not really .

Is there any way to solve this?

I believe those old WYSE terminal keyboards only support 2KRO, like the Model M.

-d

[fohat.digs]

I have an old Televideo keyboard with a 4P4C connector that I would love to get running again.

The Teensy is flashed and I think that I have gotten the wires right.

hid_listen returns WY50 as the device but that may just be the default for the firmware. Pressing keys does not get any response.

Any suggestions for what to try next?

Thanks!

PS - I see that Soarer has connections for the LEDs on the Teensy, but I can't see anywhere to bring them off the keyboard.

[dorkvader]

PS - I see that Soarer has connections for the LEDs on the Teensy, but I can't see anywhere to bring them off the keyboard.

I believe you enable the LEDs in the firmware config file and list what pin they're connected to and what LED they're supposed to act as. Once that's done, wire up a resistor and a lead to the LED or two leads and use the resistor on the PCB.

[Blaise170]

Awesome converter Soarer. Got my WYSE ASCII cleaned up and ready to go, tested the leads and keys were being registered, but unfortunately the 4P4C connector had cloth insulators which made it impossible to solder on like I was planning. Now I'm going to have to hardwire the Teensy to the board.

[dorkvader]

Awesome converter Soarer. Got my WYSE ASCII cleaned up and ready to go, tested the leads and keys were being registered, but unfortunately the 4P4C connector had cloth insulators which made it impossible to solder on like I was planning. Now I'm going to have to hardwire the Teensy to the board.

I had the same trouble with almost all 4p4c modular connector cables

I eventually gave up and put the controller and USB cable inside.

[Asininity]

I'm not at all knowledgeable about the Teensy. I have dumb question.

I'm trying to figure out what to solder where. It's obvious where the 5V and the ground goes but I can't figure out where the wires for Clock and Data on the 4P4C should be soldered. Any help would be fantastic! Thanks. 

[metalliqaz]

Show Image

I'm not at all knowledgeable about the Teensy. I have dumb question.

I'm trying to figure out what to solder where. It's obvious where the 5V and the ground goes but I can't figure out where the wires for Clock and Data on the 4P4C should be soldered. Any help would be fantastic! Thanks.

It is listed in the Original Post.  PD0 and PD1.  They are labeled on the Teensy as "D0" and "D1".  A little hard to read in the pic but that looks like pins 5 and 6.

[Asininity]

Show Image

I'm not at all knowledgeable about the Teensy. I have dumb question.

I'm trying to figure out what to solder where. It's obvious where the 5V and the ground goes but I can't figure out where the wires for Clock and Data on the 4P4C should be soldered. Any help would be fantastic! Thanks.

It is listed in the Original Post.  PD0 and PD1.  They are labeled on the Teensy as "D0" and "D1".  A little hard to read in the pic but that looks like pins 5 and 6.

My mistake, I must have missed it. Thank you!

This image is much more clear:

[tgujay]

So I have flashed the firmware and soldered a 4P4C connector terminator to my pro micro but I'm only getting solid LED's and no key output.  Any help?

[tgujay]

Here are some pictures of my board and my connector soldered to the pro micro.

[magicwuff]

Hi all!

I have what I believe to be a 990112-12 wyse keyboard and would like to build this converter. This model number isn't mentioned in the "model's supported" list, but does anyone know if it will work anyway?

Thanks for the help!

[Blaise170]

Will this converter work for the 900023-01? A standard telephone cable does not fit the socket.

[Pardalis]

Hey, I don't know if I should start a new thread or just bump this one.

I got my WYSE #840362-01 working with a generic, blue Pro Micro, everything works fine besides:
-Iffy key rollover, I only noticed this because of that old "hold down both shift keys and type out TQBF" exercise, the spacebar doesn't work when holding down both shift keys among other weird combos.
-The numpad doesn't output numbers or symbols besides slashes and plus/minus, plus doing the arrowkey and home/pgup/etc options. I CAN see the keypresses in hid_listen under windows, though, this is a sequence from 0-9 then the other keys:

What am I missing here?

[whiskytango]

Hey, I don't know if I should start a new thread or just bump this one.

I got my WYSE #840362-01 working with a generic, blue Pro Micro, everything works fine besides:
-Iffy key rollover, I only noticed this because of that old "hold down both shift keys and type out TQBF" exercise, the spacebar doesn't work when holding down both shift keys among other weird combos.
-The numpad doesn't output numbers or symbols besides slashes and plus/minus, plus doing the arrowkey and home/pgup/etc options. I CAN see the keypresses in hid_listen under windows, though, this is a sequence from 0-9 then the other keys:

Show Image

What am I missing here?

I don't know about the numpad thing, but the rollover on wyse keyboards is pretty bad. Your experience is normal I would say. I typed on a wyse pce using this converter for a while, and I could not get used to it. Space bar often would not register because of the limitations of the way the board is wired when pressing other commonly used keys like shift. Which is why I plan to hand wire one instead. (Of course pile that on top of all my other keyboard projects that'll never get done)

Not sure about the numpad thing though. No help there, sorry

[trenzafeeds]

This might be the wrong place to post this, but I have a WYSE with the RJ11, and I'm only looking to convert it to PS/2. Can I do this by just hacking together an RJ11 and PS/2 cable, or do I need to do anything fancier?

[Junkok]

Hello.
Help to solve my problem with the Wyse keyboard please.
There is a Wyse keyboard - part no:840362-04 and Arduino Pro Micro
I stitched an arduino your insertion of v1.20
Now at connection of Arduino in "Device manager" there are 2 more Keyboard HID devices, soldered Arduino conclusions according to your scheme, but the keyboard doesn't work.
Prompt please in what there can be a problem.
I apply screenshots.

Cable Brown - GND
Cable Orange - VCC
Cable Blue - Data
Cable Blue-White - Clock

Before connection of Arduino:


After connection of Arduino:


Connection to the keyboard:


Connection to the Arduino:

[Junkok]

Sorry. Mixed wires. Now everything works!!!
Thanks a lot)))

[audax989]

Hello,

I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?

thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything.

[metalliqaz]

Hello,

I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?

thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything.

That looks a lot like mine.  You can see my Teensy pinout on my post on page 1

[whiskytango]

Hello,

I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?

thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything.

Is that a TO-300?

[audax989]

Hello,

I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?

thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything.

That looks a lot like mine.  You can see my Teensy pinout on my post on page 1

it was exactly like yours! I have a lot to thank you for posting that close up picture of the pinout. I was confused on soarer's guide saying that it was mirrored. here it is all working! Thank you Soarer and everyone!! vintage blacks feel awesome!

[whiskytango]

Hello,

I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?

thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything.

That looks a lot like mine.  You can see my Teensy pinout on my post on page 1

it was exactly like yours! I have a lot to thank you for posting that close up picture of the pinout. I was confused on soarer's guide saying that it was mirrored. here it is all working! Thank you Soarer and everyone!! vintage blacks feel awesome!

Hey, were you considering using that surface mount telephone jack in the background of your pictures as a converter box? Because that's exactly what I just did, and I swear I didn't notice it in your picture until after I built this one. Saw the boxes on clearance at the home improvement store for $0.99 and had the idea.

[audax989]

Hello,

I have a 980478-01. Will this work for it? Also, the connector on mine looks like a filco modular on. Does anyone have a link to the pinout on this one?

thanks! I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing before I start anything.

Hey man sorry to get back to you so late! Actually, I really wanted to house the Teensy inside the keyboard and just run the usb cable out. But, I realized that maybe the teensy shouldn't be mounted permanently, since, I have an IBM Model M that I want to Convert, I'm thinking of making a converter box for it. Still not sure if I want to keep it that way though, I still have leandren's R4 on the way. So many keyboards, so, little time. I might just reconsider this hobby It's burning through my wallet.

That looks a lot like mine.  You can see my Teensy pinout on my post on page 1

it was exactly like yours! I have a lot to thank you for posting that close up picture of the pinout. I was confused on soarer's guide saying that it was mirrored. here it is all working! Thank you Soarer and everyone!! vintage blacks feel awesome!

Hey, were you considering using that surface mount telephone jack in the background of your pictures as a converter box? Because that's exactly what I just did, and I swear I didn't notice it in your picture until after I built this one. Saw the boxes on clearance at the home improvement store for $0.99 and had the idea.

Show Image

[whiskytango]

I revamped my telephone jack design. Here it is in case anyone is looking for inspiration.

Parts:

pro micro clone from ebay
desoldered 4p4c connector from a WYSE PCB
Short male micro USB to female mini USB cable for strain relief and quick detach option
button from old mouse for reset switch (pro micro doesn't have one like teensy does)
surface mount rj11 telephone jack
hot glue gun and glue
something to cut the plastic housing as needed (I used a small hacksaw blade, pliers, and dremel with cutoff wheel)
small wire (I used an old piece of cut up USB cable)

Had to cut some of the plastic from the inside of the phone jack housing to make things fit and used lots of hot glue to make everything stay in place. Probably could have made the wires a little shorter for better appearance but that would make everything harder to fit together. After a little modification, the 4p4c socket fit nicely where the rj11 jack was originally. I trimmed some of the rubber surround from the end of the USB adapter cable so that the female mini USB end would stick out through the hole a little bit.

[metalliqaz]

I revamped my telephone jack design. Here it is in case anyone is looking for inspiration.

Parts:

pro micro clone from ebay
desoldered 4p4c connector from a WYSE PCB
Short male micro USB to female mini USB cable for strain relief and quick detach option
button from old mouse for reset switch (pro micro doesn't have one like teensy does)
surface mount rj11 telephone jack
hot glue gun and glue
something to cut the plastic housing as needed (I used a small hacksaw blade, pliers, and dremel with cutoff wheel)
small wire (I used an old piece of cut up USB cable)

Had to cut some of the plastic from the inside of the phone jack housing to make things fit and used lots of hot glue to make everything stay in place. Probably could have made the wires a little shorter for better appearance but that would make everything harder to fit together. After a little modification, the 4p4c socket fit nicely where the rj11 jack was originally. I trimmed some of the rubber surround from the end of the USB adapter cable so that the female mini USB end would stick out through the hole a little bit.

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Looks good!

[audax989]

I revamped my telephone jack design. Here it is in case anyone is looking for inspiration.

Parts:

pro micro clone from ebay
desoldered 4p4c connector from a WYSE PCB
Short male micro USB to female mini USB cable for strain relief and quick detach option
button from old mouse for reset switch (pro micro doesn't have one like teensy does)
surface mount rj11 telephone jack
hot glue gun and glue
something to cut the plastic housing as needed (I used a small hacksaw blade, pliers, and dremel with cutoff wheel)
small wire (I used an old piece of cut up USB cable)

Had to cut some of the plastic from the inside of the phone jack housing to make things fit and used lots of hot glue to make everything stay in place. Probably could have made the wires a little shorter for better appearance but that would make everything harder to fit together. After a little modification, the 4p4c socket fit nicely where the rj11 jack was originally. I trimmed some of the rubber surround from the end of the USB adapter cable so that the female mini USB end would stick out through the hole a little bit.

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Weird how my last reply was in the middle of the quote. I must've been sleepy at the time. This looks great. I might just give this a try when I get the time.

[invariance]

Some help here please.

I have loaded the WYSEvert v1.30 for atmega32u4 onto an Arduino Leonardo and hooked it up to what I believe is an 85, going by this post and my pcb has serial # 980062-01 also.


Here is what Hid_listen is outputting when powered up and the keys 'a', 'b' and 'c' are pressed:

Code: [Select]

WYSE...
ID: 00
Model: WY85


Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 2 (extended)
Mode: AT/PS2

\4E +04 \4F +42 d04 d42
/4E -04 /4F -42 u04 u42
\5B +05 \5C +1F d05 d1F
/5B -05 /5C -1F u05 u1F
\13 +06 \14 +27 d06 d27
/13 -06 /14 -27 u06 u27

Is this normal?


27 May.
Was grappling with the reloading the firmware on, but eventually worked out the procedure and here is what Hid_listen produces:

Code: [Select]

Device disconnected.
Waiting for new device:............
Listening:
wEE

remaining: 007C


Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 1
Mode: PC/XT

It is currently totally unresponsive to key presses.

NO, disregard as I have loaded it again and its back to what I originally posted: ID 00

[invariance]

After leaving it for a while, I have finally got it working and the unusual keys remapped, but I cannot figure out the caps/num/scroll lock leds.  I even tried to assemble the supplied led config but it fails at the first line.

Has anyone been able to configure the leds?

[ShawnMeg]

After leaving it for a while, I have finally got it working and the unusual keys remapped, but I cannot figure out the caps/num/scroll lock leds.  I even tried to assemble the supplied led config but it fails at the first line.

Has anyone been able to configure the leds?

How did you wire your Teensy or Pro Micro?  I don't have any experience with the Wyse Soarer's converter, but I managed to get LED functionality for a Pro Micro Soarer's for PS2/XT/AT.  I looked the Wyse LED .sc file, and the wiring is the same for Soarer's PS2/XT/AT. 

Here's what worked for me, and may work for you.  I hooked up only the numlock LED, as I don't use scroll lock or capslock.  I used a Pro Micro.  For numlock, I used the A1 pin (corresponds to PF6).  If you are using a Teensy, it should be the F6 pin.  I used a prewired LED harness that I bought from eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCs-3mm-Pre-wired-200mm-LED-Light-Lamp-Bulb-12V-Plastic-Bezel-Holder-8-Colors-/371742145681?var=&hash=item568d8efc91:m:m1IxS-6pOCgnzuqIC3ncqjg.  There was already an inline resistor in this harness.  I soldered the red wire (which leads to the anode) to the A1 pin and the black wire (cathode end) to one of the ground pins.  If you don't use the harness, then the wiring should be A1 - resistor - LED anode - LED cathode - ground pin.  The capslock and scroll lock LED should be the same with the corresponding microcontroller pin.

[invariance]

Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.

I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.

led caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7

As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work.  Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished.  I'll do that when I get home after work.

Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.

[ShawnMeg]

Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.

I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.

led caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7

As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work.  Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished.  I'll do that when I get home after work.

Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.

I didn't realize you hadn't wired the leds yet.  What exactly did you do to get things working? 

[invariance]

Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.

I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.

led caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7

As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work.  Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished.  I'll do that when I get home after work.

Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.

I didn't realize you hadn't wired the leds yet.  What exactly did you do to get things working?

No worries.
I was initially compiling the configuration file using the tools from the XT/AT... Converter just for remapping the keys.  It wasn't until I introduced the LED commands that I wasn't able to assemble the file ( using scas.exe) without it throwing up errors.  I don't know why, as the XT/AT...Converter should have the capability AFAIK.

Anyway, for me the tools in the Keyboard Controller Firmware did the trick.

[ShawnMeg]

Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.

I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.

led caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7

As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work.  Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished.  I'll do that when I get home after work.

Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.

I didn't realize you hadn't wired the leds yet.  What exactly did you do to get things working?

No worries.
I was initially compiling the configuration file using the tools from the XT/AT... Converter just for remapping the keys.  It wasn't until I introduced the LED commands that I wasn't able to assemble the file ( using scas.exe) without it throwing up errors.  I don't know why, as the XT/AT...Converter should have the capability AFAIK.

Anyway, for me the tools in the Keyboard Controller Firmware did the trick.

I'm not familiar with compiling, assembling, etc. the configuration file.  I simply create an .sc config file with a text editor, save it, and then drop and drag this file onto the scaswr.bat file.  I use Windows.  This makes things very easy to configure remapping, macros, function layers, etc.  According to the documentation, this method "... will assemble the text config and then write the resulting binary config to the converter, in a single step".

[invariance]

Just to be different, I am using an Arduino Leonardo which has the Atmega32u4 µController.
I haven't hooked up any leds yet, just attempting to compile the config first.

I have been compiling my configuration file for key remapping using the tools in Soarer's XT/AT/PS2/Terminal Converter (as he mentions it in the OP if this thread) but when I tried to do the same with the supplied led file (wyse_leds.sc), I had no success: error at line 1: invalid command.

led caps +PF5
led num +PF6
led scroll +PF7

As I was typing this up, I thought that I should try the tools in his Keyboard Controller firmware (also mentioned) to see if it would work.  Well f'k me, it does!!
So all I need to do is wire up the leds and I am finished.  I'll do that when I get home after work.

Thanks for replying ShawnMeg, you helped me realise where I was going wrong.

I didn't realize you hadn't wired the leds yet.  What exactly did you do to get things working?

No worries.
I was initially compiling the configuration file using the tools from the XT/AT... Converter just for remapping the keys.  It wasn't until I introduced the LED commands that I wasn't able to assemble the file ( using scas.exe) without it throwing up errors.  I don't know why, as the XT/AT...Converter should have the capability AFAIK.

Anyway, for me the tools in the Keyboard Controller Firmware did the trick.

I'm not familiar with compiling, assembling, etc. the configuration file.  I simply create an .sc config file with a text editor, save it, and then drop and drag this file onto the scaswr.bat file.  I use Windows.  This makes things very easy to configure remapping, macros, function layers, etc.  According to the documentation, this method "... will assemble the text config and then write the resulting binary config to the converter, in a single step".

Haha, yeah, I seem to do everything the hard way: convert the .sc file to binary, then write it to the controller with scwr.
I will give scaswr a shot.

[Hypersphere]

So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.

So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc

Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:

Code: [Select]

scas wy30.sc wy30.scbNow there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmware

Code: [Select]

scwr wy30.scbSince you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.

Code: [Select]

scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.

Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computer

Code: [Select]

scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and edit

Code: [Select]

scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.

Code: [Select]

# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end

# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end

# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end

# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end

# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.

Thank you for this! Very helpful!

[xandwich]

I've got a strange problem here with my WYSE PCE and Soarer's WYSE Converter v1.30.  This is the hid_listen output when I connect the keyboard:

Code: [Select]

WYSE...
ID: 00
Model: WY85

Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 2 (extended)
Mode: AT/PS2
But I've got an 840358-01 (PCE), not a WY-85!  It still happily recognizes keypresses, but the keys are mapped all wrong.  Any ideas?  Is there a way to force it to use the PCE keymap?  I don't want to have to write a config.sc where I remap all the keys, but if that's what it takes...

[invariance]

That's interesting, @whiskeytango has the PCE and confirmed that it reported ID:82 and Model:WY-PCE US.
Responding to keystrokes says that data/clock are correct.
Not picking up the keyboard id; maybe reflash the µcontroller.  Recheck the cabling and connectors: sounds like it isn't picking up the id from the data stream when initialising (just guessing though).

[xandwich]

Well I wrote up a config remapping the keys (though this still failed to properly handle the onboard LEDs), but then I recalled seeing something about long cables needing some pullup resistors, so I made a much shorter cable from the WYSE to the Pro Micro and now the keyboard gets identified properly.  Whew!

[xandwich]

I've got a new problem.  When I have certain combinations of three keys down simultaneously, the third keypress gets dropped.  Though not totally ignored!

One example: [shift] i [space].  As long as I haven't yet released either shift or I, I won't get a space character.  Now the hid_listen output is pretty odd.  Here are the keys pressed sequentially (which is no problem):

Code: [Select]

\1F +E1 dE1
/1F -E1 uE1
\1B +0C d0C
/1B -0C u0C
\27 +2C d2C
/27 -2C u2C
and here are the keys pressed sloppily (i.e. how I would normally type them)

Code: [Select]

\1F +E1 dE1
\1B +0C d0C \7B
\23 \27
/23 /27
/7B /1B -0C u0C
/1F -E1 uE1
What's this about 7B and 23?  I see the \27 for the space bar.  But there's no u2C d2C to give me an actual space character!
Here I'll mash space a bit while holding down shift-i (again, all I'll get in my output are some capital I characters)

Code: [Select]

\1F +E1 dE1
\1B +0C \7B d0C
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
\23 \27 /23 /27
\23 \27
/23 /27
/1F -E1 /7B uE1 /1B -0C u0C
It's very frustrating!  Can anyone else duplicate this?  Is it just a common thing that I (being a bit of a newbie) have never heard of?

[invariance]

Yours might need the pullup resistor between +5V and Data also (even though you made a shorter cable).

[xandwich]

I just added a 1k resistor between +5v and data per the diagram, but no change in symptoms.  However reading over this thread a little more carefully I see I'm not the first to have this problem!

[mike52787]

Ok, just wired one of these up and am having an issue. I programmed the teensy, and it shows up in device manager just fine. Then I soldered it to the pcb, and it still shows up in device manager, but all the lock leds are lit and it doesn't register any keypresses. I checked HID listen and it's totally silent. any help is appreciated.

[invariance]

Ok, just wired one of these up and am having an issue. I programmed the teensy, and it shows up in device manager just fine. Then I soldered it to the pcb, and it still shows up in device manager, but all the lock leds are lit and it doesn't register any keypresses. I checked HID listen and it's totally silent. any help is appreciated.

Quadruple checked the wiring: Vcc/Gnd and Data/Clk?

[gloomyeve]

can I use it with my Arduino Nano V3.0?

[xandwich]

Can't.  Nano has an atmega328, and the Wyse Converter (along with most of the aftermarket keyboard firmware here) is written for the beefier 32u4.  I used a cheap pro micro clone for mine.

[gloomyeve]

Can't.  Nano has an atmega328, and the Wyse Converter (along with most of the aftermarket keyboard firmware here) is written for the beefier 32u4.  I used a cheap pro micro clone for mine.

Thanks for reply, I just got a pro micro. Flashed it with Wyse converter. Connect with my Wyse 840358-01.Hid listen show like yours:

Code: [Select]

WYSE...
ID: 00
Model: WY85


Keyboard ID: 0000
Code Set: 2 (extended)
Mode: AT/PS2But no key seem working. Can you take the picture yours pin out connector? thank you.

[Tactile]

Don't know if it'll help you folks having trouble but if you're using a Pro Micro, most of the Chinese ones have a problem. J1 in the corner should be bridged with solder on a 5 volt Pro Micro and usually isn't on the ones from China.

There's more info in this thread.

[rowdy]

Don't know if it'll help you folks having trouble but if you're using a Pro Micro, most of the Chinese ones have a problem. J1 in the corner should be bridged with solder on a 5 volt Pro Micro and usually isn't on the ones from China.

There's more info in this thread.

I've got a couple of these coming in the post - are they all 5V?  Is there some way to tell whether the jumper should be bridged or not?

[Tactile]

I've got a couple of these coming in the post - are they all 5V?  Is there some way to tell whether the jumper should be bridged or not?

They're not all 5 volt but the 5 volt version is what you should be using for a USB keyboard project. The 3.3 volt run at 8mhz and the 5 volt run at 16mhz. In the photo in the other thread you can see the rectangular metal can in the center at the end opposite the USB port. You can see the metal cover has been stamped with the frequency: 16.000. 16mhz = 5 volt Pro Micro.

[rowdy]

I've got a couple of these coming in the post - are they all 5V?  Is there some way to tell whether the jumper should be bridged or not?

They're not all 5 volt but the 5 volt version is what you should be using for a USB keyboard project. The 3.3 volt run at 8mhz and the 5 volt run at 16mhz. In the photo in the other thread you can see the rectangular metal can in the center at the end opposite the USB port. You can see the metal cover has been stamped with the frequency: 16.000. 16mhz = 5 volt Pro Micro.

Thanks for the tip - bookmarked so I can check when my Pro Micros arrive.

[rowdy]

I've got a couple of these coming in the post - are they all 5V?  Is there some way to tell whether the jumper should be bridged or not?

They're not all 5 volt but the 5 volt version is what you should be using for a USB keyboard project. The 3.3 volt run at 8mhz and the 5 volt run at 16mhz. In the photo in the other thread you can see the rectangular metal can in the center at the end opposite the USB port. You can see the metal cover has been stamped with the frequency: 16.000. 16mhz = 5 volt Pro Micro.

Mine have arrived, and both have 16.000MHz on the component, and both have J1 NOT bridged.

Thanks for the info - that would have confused me no end when I try to connect them.

[gloomyeve]

Hi guys, I need some help.
I used Wyse Converter with my Pro Micro. When I plug in the keyboard, non key working. Try the hid_listen and it show:

I don't know where I went wrong 

update: I did it. I made mistake with pin out. The right one is:
Black -> Data -> PD0
Red -> +5V -> VCC
Green -> Clock -> PD1
Yellow -> GND -> GND

[jamie_s]

Just to say thank you Soarer for this awesome firmware and set of instructions. Typing this reply on a saved-from-the-waste-pile WYSE PCE Terminal keyboard with its smooth as butter Cherry Blacks.

 

[Hypersphere]

Yes, indeed -- Thank you, Soarer, wherever you are. I am typing this on my Wyse30 using an Orihalcon/Soarer converter built into the cable. I've remapped the board to something as close to a HHKB as I could get. Now the board is quite usable for me. It would be even better (for me, at least) if I could detach the NumPad!

I am amazed at how smooth these vintage black switches are. The board also feels very solid despite its relatively light weight.

Now I need to clean up the board and repair the wonky 10x spacebar.

[ergya]

Hi everyone,

I am pretty new to any DIY electronic projects, I managed to brake the Pro Micro (Chinese one) USB jack from the PCB of a friends WYSE keyboard . He used Soarers converter so I bought a new Pro Micro, desoldered the broke one, flashed 1.12 to the new one, soldered and all I have at the moment is the keyboard LEDs (Scroll Lock...) are on constantly, no inputs from the keyboard. On the Pro Micro the power LED is on, no other LEDs are on. I am new to anything like this so I am stuck at the moment. Took pictures, notes... before desoldering from the wiring (just you know, to make sure...), so I am pretty sure the wiring is OK, checked conductivity with a multimeter between the solder joints and the end of the cables (end=just before they connect to the PCB of the keyboard), all OK, no bridges... Executed hid_listen but nothing. These are the outputs I collected to debug, could someone be so kind to help me out with some suggestion?

flash output: https://pastebin.com/HLH7vM07
journalctl output when connecting the keyboard: https://pastebin.com/PmJkQYNt, the only "red" in the log is: hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0005: No inputs registered, leaving
the output of hid_listen (keyboard is still connected): https://pastebin.com/1L8vXWd9, nothing else when hitting any keys
I desoldered the pro micro controller and did the clock/data short test Soarer suggested on Deskthority, output: https://pastebin.com/DyUZwtLf

What I did not do is to "send" any config to the cotroller (like modify keyboard mapping...) but according to the step-by-step guide is not necesseraly needed.

I tried with 3 different USB cable (even with the one I used for flashing), same results, I reflashed with version 1.10, but same. What could go wrong?

[Tactile]

Hi everyone,

I am pretty new to any DIY electronic projects, I managed to brake the Pro Micro (Chinese one) USB jack from the PCB of a friends WYSE keyboard . He used Soarers converter so I bought a new Pro Micro, desoldered the broke one, flashed 1.12 to the new one, soldered and all I have at the moment is the keyboard LEDs (Scroll Lock...) are on constantly, no inputs from the keyboard. On the Pro Micro the power LED is on, no other LEDs are on. I am new to anything like this so I am stuck at the moment. Took pictures, notes... before desoldering from the wiring (just you know, to make sure...), so I am pretty sure the wiring is OK, checked conductivity with a multimeter between the solder joints and the end of the cables (end=just before they connect to the PCB of the keyboard), all OK, no bridges... Executed hid_listen but nothing. These are the outputs I collected to debug, could someone be so kind to help me out with some suggestion?

flash output: https://pastebin.com/HLH7vM07
journalctl output when connecting the keyboard: https://pastebin.com/PmJkQYNt, the only "red" in the log is: hid-generic 0003:16C0:047D.0005: No inputs registered, leaving
the output of hid_listen (keyboard is still connected): https://pastebin.com/1L8vXWd9, nothing else when hitting any keys
I desoldered the pro micro controller and did the clock/data short test Soarer suggested on Deskthority, output: https://pastebin.com/DyUZwtLf

What I did not do is to "send" any config to the cotroller (like modify keyboard mapping...) but according to the step-by-step guide is not necesseraly needed.

I tried with 3 different USB cable (even with the one I used for flashing), same results, I reflashed with version 1.10, but same. What could go wrong?

First make sure the hardware is right.

[ergya]

First make sure the hardware is right.

Hi, thanks for helping, my pro micro has 16.000 marked on the silver thing (that is the clock generator?) and I have not bridged the top right corner pins yet. I guess 5V should go to the keyboard so I need to bridge them, correct?

EDIT
on the forum post you linked, someone said this: "Is it possible you had it selected as a 3V3 instead of 5V pro micro when you were flashing it? That can cause this behaviour. You should be able to reflash at 5V by forcing it into bootloader mode. "

Does it make any difference if you flash it with 3.3 or 5? Or let me put it this way, can I influence the voltage just by flashing it differently?

EDIT2
I read this topic and yes, I need to bridge it, Thank you Tactile, oddly enought though the original pro micro (the one I broke) did not show conductivity between thouse 2 pins on my multimeter... hmmm

[ergya]

So before soldering the pads I checked the voltage at the end of the cables with my multimeter, 1 probe was connected to VCC, 1 probe was connected to the cable that goes to GND and I measured 4.65V (DC) (the keyboard was connected to the controller, the controller was connected to my PC via USB). I checked the conductivity between the pads and my multimeter was not beeping... what a heck?

[Tactile]

You can find the schematic and additional info by clicking on "Documents" on this page.

[jamie_s]

Following up with a picture of the 'beaut.

[ergya]

You can find the schematic and additional info by clicking on "Documents" on this page.

Thanks for the suggestions, without the J1 bridge I measured 4.65V, I even checked the regulator OUT pin and it was 4.65. After soldering the J1 bridge it is now 5V. The keyboard still not responding . I really hope I did not kill the keyboard somehow.... Without the keyboard I connected the controller to my PC, shorted the clock pin to the ground briefly and I used a program called hid_listen which showed some error codes so I assume the board is OK, although I am by no means an expert here...

EDIT
After closing the J1 pins I reflashed the controller with 1.12, resoldered, still nothing . The 3 LEDs (caps lock...) are on, but nothing, no response etc.

Unfortunately I am pretty much stuck here

[Tactile]

...After closing the J1 pins I reflashed the controller with 1.12...

I'm not sure that's right. "1.12" sounds like a version of Soarer's converter firmware. For a Wyse converter I think you should be using version 1.30, as found way down at the bottom of the first post in this thread.

[Hypersphere]

@jamie_s: What is the model number of your Wyse PCE keyboard? Thanks!

[jamie_s]

@Hypersphere it's a PCE INT'L #840362-01

[ergya]

...After closing the J1 pins I reflashed the controller with 1.12...

I'm not sure that's right. "1.12" sounds like a version of Soarer's converter firmware. For a Wyse converter I think you should be using version 1.30, as found way down at the bottom of the first post in this thread.

You are absolutely right, I got the link from my friend and I just grabbed whatever was there. I really appreciate your help I owe you a bier . And now we have a fully functioning WYSE keyboard over USB . Big thanks to Soarer too wherever he is. So lessons learned there are 2 firmwares, I believe 1 for terminal WYSE keyboards, 1 for AT/XT...

[Hypersphere]

@Hypersphere it's a PCE INT'L #840362-01

Thanks. It's an attractive board -- looks brand new.

[pivanow]

Working Link keyboard with this converter. It's actually a Wyse 980112-01 model.

Numeric keys will have to be remaped.

[invariance]

Working Link keyboard with this converter. It's actually a Wyse 980112-01 model.

Numeric keys will have to be remaped.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

Looks very neat and tidy.

[mlev6]

I have a question: is there a modern pcb on the market that fits the wyse/50/60 terminal layouts (like the picture pivanow posted above)? The reason I ask is I really love the condensed 101 key layout on the wyse - it is my favorite over even 96s. I kind of want to keep everything about my wyse keyboard - including the mounting plate etc, but just modernize the pcb to something that can directly hook up usb/ wireless as well as programmable LEDs. Thanks!

[kelvinhall05]

Hi guys, wired this up to my PCE and while it works, it is outputting the wrong scancodes compared to the key on the board (like, M puts out ], numlock puts out 0, it's just all ****ed up). Also, all three lock lights stay lit up, although maybe the locks are just on or something idk. Any ideas? Thanks!

[itzklyde]

So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.

So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc

Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:

Code: [Select]

scas wy30.sc wy30.scbNow there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmware

Code: [Select]

scwr wy30.scbSince you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.

Code: [Select]

scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.

Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computer

Code: [Select]

scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and edit

Code: [Select]

scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.

Code: [Select]

# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end

# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end

# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end

# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end

# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.

I know people hate newbie questions when it's easy for you but I'd really love some help if possible.
So, I'm just trying to check if some keyboards work. I got it working last night for a min but I'm not sure what I did to make it stop.
I have a Teensy 2.0.
I have Teensy loader.
I have Arduino.
I have Soarers converter.
HID Listen shows it doing stuff.

So I flash the converter firmware first without the keyboard connected. Then I input these commands from @DorkVader. Then I connect the keyboard? Can anyone just let me know which programs need to be opened? I would really appreciate it.

[Tactile]

So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.

So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc

Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:

Code: [Select]

scas wy30.sc wy30.scbNow there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmware

Code: [Select]

scwr wy30.scbSince you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.

Code: [Select]

scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.

Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computer

Code: [Select]

scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and edit

Code: [Select]

scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.

Code: [Select]

# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end

# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end

# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end

# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end

# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.

I know people hate newbie questions when it's easy for you but I'd really love some help if possible.
So, I'm just trying to check if some keyboards work. I got it working last night for a min but I'm not sure what I did to make it stop.
I have a Teensy 2.0.
I have Teensy loader.
I have Arduino.
I have Soarers converter.
HID Listen shows it doing stuff.

So I flash the converter firmware first without the keyboard connected. Then I input these commands from @DorkVader. Then I connect the keyboard? Can anyone just let me know which programs need to be opened? I would really appreciate it.

To begin, just flash the Soarer's firmware, connect keyboard & try it. It should work without doing anything additional. After that, if you want to reprogram some keys, we can work on that. But, again, your board/convertor should work with only the Soarer's Convertor flashed to the Teensy.

[itzklyde]

So you have to make a layout file if you want to change the layout from default. Save it as anything (I called mine wy30.sc) and put it in the same folder as scas (not necessary, but makes it easier), the "tools" folder.

So I have the file wy30.sc in the folder c:\kb\soarer_wyse\tools\wy30.sc

Then I navigate to the tools folder and run the following:

Code: [Select]

scas wy30.sc wy30.scbNow there is wy30.scb in the folder as well.
Then I run scwr to write it to the KB firmware

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scwr wy30.scbSince you are in windows, you can combine the two steps with scaswr. This saves a lot of time if you have no errors in your layout file.

Code: [Select]

scaswr wy30.scb
If you are having trouble building a layout file from nothing, you can always pull the default file from the KB and use that.

Use scrd to read the current config and write it to a file on your computer

Code: [Select]

scrd wy30.scb
use scdis to disassemble the binary config file into a text file you can read and edit

Code: [Select]

scdis wy30.scb wy30.sc
open the file in notepad and take a look. This is actually really helpful for me 'cause I lost the original file I used, and so now I don't know what the layout is. looks like I have it set up for either qwerty or dvorak. This is the disassembled file I got back.

Code: [Select]

# block length: 3
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
# configblock
# config count: 0
# end

# block length: 5
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
layerblock
# count: 1
fn1 1
end

# block length: 28
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 1
# count: 12
1 F1
2 F2
3 F3
4 F4
5 F5
6 F6
7 F7
8 F8
9 F9
0 F10
MINUS F11
EQUAL F12
end

# block length: 70
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect 1
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 33
MINUS LEFT_BRACE
EQUAL RIGHT_BRACE
Q COMMA
W PERIOD
E QUOTE
R P
T Y
Y F
U G
I C
O R
P L
LEFT_BRACE SLASH
RIGHT_BRACE EQUAL
S O
D E
F U
G I
H D
J H
K T
L N
SEMICOLON S
QUOTE MINUS
Z SEMICOLON
X Q
C J
V K
B X
N B
COMMA W
PERIOD V
SLASH Z
end

# block length: 18
ifset any
ifkeyboard any
ifselect any
remapblock
layer 0
# count: 7
SCROLL_LOCK SELECT_1
CAPS_LOCK LALT
LALT FN1
HOME PAGE_DOWN
PAGE_DOWN PAGE_UP
PRINTSCREEN DELETE
PAD_COMMA LGUI
end
You can use that to remap your KB, but it should work with a default layout as-is.

I know people hate newbie questions when it's easy for you but I'd really love some help if possible.
So, I'm just trying to check if some keyboards work. I got it working last night for a min but I'm not sure what I did to make it stop.
I have a Teensy 2.0.
I have Teensy loader.
I have Arduino.
I have Soarers converter.
HID Listen shows it doing stuff.

So I flash the converter firmware first without the keyboard connected. Then I input these commands from @DorkVader. Then I connect the keyboard? Can anyone just let me know which programs need to be opened? I would really appreciate it.

To begin, just flash the Soarer's firmware, connect keyboard & try it. It should work without doing anything additional. After that, if you want to reprogram some keys, we can work on that. But, again, your board/convertor should work with only the Soarer's Convertor flashed to the Teensy.

Are you saying this is all I should need to do? All I want is to be able to test them to see if they work. Layout doesn't matter. I've done this and also followed the instructions above with little luck. After doing the commands from above, sometimes it'll work but all it does is press a random key(s) automatically without me doing anything. My brother wired and soldered it but was pretty confident he did it right. Would a messed up wire layout make it act like that? And I just need to flash the Wyseverter file and nothing else? Do I need the controller and also USB one?

I've tried many different times many different ways and I'm not sure. I have multiple Wyse keyboards and cords too so it's not a bad keyboard/cord. At this point all I can think of is a bad wire layout but I don't know.

Couple screens from Hid Listen





If you can think of anything, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks for your reply and help. If you can help me figure it out, I'll send you some money for a coffee or something.

[Tactile]

This response makes it look like the Soarer's is properly flashed & working.

Keep in mind that I have experience with Soarer's but none with the Wyse converter & know nothing about Wyse keyboards.

Are you using a pullup resistor?

[itzklyde]

This response makes it look like the Soarer's is properly flashed & working.
(Attachment Link)
Keep in mind that I have experience with Soarer's but none with the Wyse converter & know nothing about Wyse keyboards.

Are you using a pullup resistor?

EDIT: So, apparently on some of those keyboards the wires inside are backwards. If anyone comes across this thread and can't get it to work, they might be reversed.
Only do this if you wired it right but it doesn't work.

Black -> Data -> PD0
Red -> +5V -> VCC
Green -> Clock -> PD1
Yellow -> GND -> GND

Found it here: https://forum.level1techs.com/t/how-to-mod-old-wyse-keyboards-terminal-connector/99182/6

[geekera]

hi all, super new here. I've always loved old clickity keyboards and we had this old Verizon data room at work. They were getting rid of everything but I found the last Wyse 85 Gate Array and want to make it work. I'm not into computers at all (not even gaming), I don't even know how to code, I just want to use my clicky keyboard. I read through this and a couple other threads - can someone please explain to me like I'm 5 years old?

They don't make Teensy 2.0 anymore, is there anything else I can buy that will work?  I have the phone cable-like string that came with it.  Do I need to physically buy anything else for this project?  (What is soldering, is it like mini welding - will I need physical tools?)

[fohat.digs]

They don't make Teensy 2.0 anymore

I don't know anything about WYSE, but although PJRC stopped making Teensy 2.0, there is still plenty of "new old stock" available on ebay.