60% Unicomp Build - Success!

[Bi0]

Hey all!

So I'm a long time lurker here (just created an account not that long ago).  I have 2 model m's and a unicomp, I'l looking to make the unicomp into an SSK but had some questions about the traces since they are different than the model m's.  I'm new to modifying the membrane itself as I haven't done it before, however have done a lot of mods to my m's like USB conversion, bolt mod, led swap etc...  So had a few questions really:

So first question, with what I'm doing is there any insight on the best method for re-doing the traces? I know we have: http://imgur.com/a/AOaFm but the mod I'm doing is a little different as seen in the images and the membrane is different. Here's a image of what I'm trying to do: http://imgur.com/qPYF8Hu I was also thinking of the folding method where you folder the membrane under the plate, but with the case I'm making I'm not sure that would work.

I was also thinking of using AHK to modify the menu key into a FN key, but I'm not sure if this will work so any insight there would be awesome. Because if I can do that I would just cut it down to a true 60% w/o FN keys.

As for the case, I'm actually going to be making it out of wood, just not sure what type of wood I want to use.  That will come later once I figure all of this out.



EDIT:  I just saw Hasu's converter: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69169.0 So if I'm understanding that right, I should be able to use that for a 60%.  So any help with doing the traces would be amazing or even if someone knows of a place that will do custom membranes for a decent price. 

EDIT 2: Finished the traces and brought up another question, is it possible just to solder to the membrane trace?  Seems like the easiest solution is to cut it, expose the trace and try soldering a wire to it then holding it in place.  This would allow for flexibility to move the PCB under the plate with little to no issue. 

EDIT 3: I'm just going to post my progress as I have it here rather than starting a whole new thread.  I should be getting my copper tape and a few other goodies in a couple of days.  At that point I will hopefully have a working 60% minus the case and converter from Hasu which is on order.  ^.^ Once that happens I'll post some images of the current status of the build and such.

[fohat.digs]

I presume that it would be the same on a Unicomp as an IBM, but you can fold under the unused portion of the sheets and, even though they are still connected and active, they will simply never send out any signals. That is the simple painless way, unless it creates physical clearance space problems with the controller, since it lives over there in the same area that would get folded.

[Bi0]

Yeah that's the issue I was looking at.  since it's going to be a tight fitting case I may have to adjust for that if it's the best route. And the PCB is an issue but shouldn't be too bad as I will have enough room under the plate to mount it.

[wcass]

i've tried doing this a few times over the years, so i can offer some insight.


you can't solder to membranes due to temp and flex requirements. a few folks have had some luck with copper tape, but that didn't work for me. i contacted about 30 membrane manufacturers and price for one-off custom set (top + middle + bottom) is between $200 (china) and $1500 (USA) and the $200 one was unusable.


if you want to do it yourself, don't try CircuitWriter pen - solvents in the ink make it not work on membrane substrate. but a new pen/ink has come out recently (untested, but might work) - search for "AgIC".


i've pretty much given up membranes for capacitive due to cost. you can get a FSSK PCB from i$ for about $20. you will need to swap out the pivots for Model F type pivots, but your keyboard will have NKRO and what many consider superior feel.


good luck!

[Bi0]

Thanks for all the information.  Talked to has about it in pm as well.  Sounds like what has the best chance of working I'd the copper tape, from what you and has mentioned. I don't mind giving it a shot as I can get a new membrane from unicomp for $10.  I just won't cut the other barrel plastic or steel plate down yet just in case.

[Bi0]

Hey all I wanted to bump in some progress as I decided to take the plunge on this a while back.  I've been keeping a imgur of the progress thus far which is at: http://imgur.com/a/MQHNV I've also been adding a brief description on the images to hopefully help, I plan on doing a full write up once it's completed....or should I say if. =P 

I did run into an issue and was hoping for some input, I got it wired, hooked up to the PCB and plugged in.  The issue is that it's registered the wrong keys or no keys for several barrels even the "dead" barrels" for like backspace and shift are registering keys oddly.  I have even checked the traces by color coding them and checked for any short via multimeter. Here's a layout of the keys it's registering right now for each barrel, not the keys:

The 00 means it's not reading a key. 

Code: [Select]

00 | SHFT | ALT  | T   | U  | 00  | BCK |  00  | 00  |  ;  | 8 | 0  |  O   | 9  | 9 |
00 |  00  |  00  | R   | H  |  Y  |  ]  |  =   |  F  |  '  | 2 | P  |  [   | 00 |
00 | SHFT |  00  | B   | J  |  M  |  \  | ENTR |  G  | ALT | 5 | 0  | ENTR | L  |
6  | SHFT |  00  | ALT | 5  |  7  |  N  |  00  | BCK |  V  | / | 00 |  00  | 3  |
00 | 00   |  ,   | K   | 00 | WIN |  8  |  00  | 00  |
I'm not sure what else to look into past maybe a custom controller for it to make this work as I have signal for every lead going to the PCB and low resistance.  Then again I am new at this so, I may be missing something altogether. 

Thanks all for any help in advance!


UPDATE! - I talked to Hasu who is amazing, he said to start doing a matrix table which I did and notice that the 8 column was completely dead, turns out the dimbled plug I thought was dead was actually the live plug.   WOMP WOMP.  Here's images of what I'm talking about.  It works now!  Next step is cutting the plate and plastic down to size.  After that I'm going to get some sort of interface so I can unplug the keyboard from the PCB.  This will give me an easy way to access the keyboard if I need to and cut down on a lot of wire clutter.  I'm thinking of like a 24 pin header maybe like an IDE cable since I've seen them used for other projects in the past. 

For the connection I had soldered them wrong.  The far left connection on the PCB is actually a dead one so I had to move all these connections over to the right by 1. As marked in red here:

[Bi0]

I know this sort of died off and I'm bringing it back a little but I wanted to get a sneak peak of what's coming! 

[AMongoose]

That looks intriguing...

[Bi0]

hehe  Thanks!  It's been a long and bumpy road so far for sure.  >.<  I'm probably a few weeks due to scheduling still out from finally being able to use the keyboard but I'm pretty excited. 

[Bromono]

I know this sort of died off and I'm bringing it back a little but I wanted to get a sneak peak of what's coming!

What kind of wood did you use.

[Bi0]

It has a few different names, people call it wormwood maple and wormy wood maple, I've always known it as Ambrosia Maple.  Here's a bigger image from google.  Basically worms gets into the wood and create that beautiful striping.  ^.^

[AMongoose]

and create that beautiful striping.  ^.^

Neato!!

[fohat.digs]

I have tried the SSK "chop job" mod on standard Model Ms twice now, and the internals are nearly trivial (the fold-under method, that is) but the case re-jiggering has never worked at all for me.

A wooden case top would be a great solution. You could make the case bottom shell work *however* and not worry about looks, and from the top it would still be awesome.

[Bi0]

Yeah this isn't a fold over, this is fully cut and wired.  I do have an extra membrane however (just in case) where I could do like a fold over if needed. I'm hoping to get some more work done on this this coming weekend, things just keep coming up and halting progress.  T.T

[Bi0]

Okay so here it goes.  Let me start by saying I am sorry for basically necroing this thread.  However I felt it better than starting a whole new one for the build.  That said, I do apologize for not updating the thread in that time. The board has been done for almost a year now.  I haven't really been able to use or look at the board for that time and even now it's really a tough thing typing this and I truly hope this thread isn't a .  Please bare with me while I tell the story of this board.  I started out building this as a challenge to myself to see if I could build it.  I was able to complete the electronics with some help from Hasu and tips he had from his build.  As for the woodworking, I turned to my father for help who was a great woodworker and craftsman.  Which brings my to why this is tough typing. About 4 months after the case was finished on a trip to visit my family, he passed away. On December 20th 2016, which also happened to be the day after my birthday so I was able to thankfully talk with him.  This was the last thing we were ever able to build together.  I feel like part of him lives on with this board so it has been tough presenting it to others or using it frankly.

This said, I want others to view what we did together, the final result of the project and part of something that I put my heart into with my father. It's not perfect and I like that it's not, it shows to my that everything has its flaws and it's something that I built together with my dad and our hands. 

At the bottom I also added one of the photos I took with some coasters that my dad made with some scrap Ambrosia Maple and Purpleheart from some cutting boards he made.  The 2 side ones are mini pallets. 

Thank you all for viewing and reading this.  Here is a link to the full build log in imgur as well: http://imgur.com/a/MQHNV

[rowdy]

First of all it's your thread about this keyboard, so making another thread would just upset people with a duplicate thread.  Some of these build threads go on for years (I know mine did)!

It is the imperfections that define us and the things we built.  If everything was perfect and identical, where would the satisfaction be in having built something yourself?  It is the imperfections that add character and make something unique - something that you (and your father) have crafted yourselves.

And finally - it looks fantastic!  I'd love to know how it sounds, compared to the usual plastic-cased Model M keyboards, but it's up to you to compare it or not.

Either way, that keyboard would make a fantastic display piece, or working keyboard.

[pabile]

wow! you and your father did a great job. in my personal view, imperfections does not exist in one of a kind custom pieces. more so on one that has wonderful story behind it.

[Bi0]

Thanks to both of you for the amazingly kind words.  It's pretty much a family heirloom at this point to me.  I'll also see about getting a sound comparison up at some point as I still have my old model m silver label that I use.