Pc plate and pcb and I'm in!This!
Pc plate and pcb and I'm in!
Pc plate and pcb and I'm in!This!
I am in for at least a couple pcbs though!
Skickat från min CLT-L29 via Tapatalk
Pc plate and pcb and I'm in!
PC plate please!
Never filled out a ic form so fast.
Never filled out a ic form so fast.
Aren't PC plates more difficult to cut? I believe you can cut FR4 and pom with a laser but PC needs to be cnc'ed?
Never filled out a ic form so fast.
Aren't PC plates more difficult to cut? I believe you can cut FR4 and pom with a laser but PC needs to be cnc'ed?
almost positive you can waterjet it but i'm not an expert
Isn't 1.2og using the same layout as h87a PCB?
There should be some that already supports it.
For the RGB lights, Tiamo V2 PCB just put like 8 SMD onto the line and works like a charm.
super interested! i realise it's far out but do you have any idea of what colour the PCB & plate will be?Depends what PCB manu can do and how spicy I'm feeling. FR4 plate will just be black probably.
Isn't 1.2og using the same layout as h87a PCB?I'd like to retain the original construction of the 1.2 with the use of the separate PCB for the lightbar.
There should be some that already supports it.
For the RGB lights, Tiamo V2 PCB just put like 8 SMD onto the line and works like a charm.
Isn't 1.2og using the same layout as h87a PCB?
There should be some that already supports it.
For the RGB lights, Tiamo V2 PCB just put like 8 SMD onto the line and works like a charm.
If no LED daughter board then I'm out. Matrix might put up more replacement PCBs on taobao anyway so the only thing I'm interested in is the PC plate.I will see what Ender can do in regards to the LED daughter board. I wasn't planning on getting those made, since I presumed those don't arrive dead.
From my experience building Matrix stuff, the LED parts are always the most finicky, so replicating these would be really helpfulIf no LED daughter board then I'm out. Matrix might put up more replacement PCBs on taobao anyway so the only thing I'm interested in is the PC plate.I will see what Ender can do in regards to the LED daughter board. I wasn't planning on getting those made, since I presumed those don't arrive dead.
From my experience building Matrix stuff, the LED parts are always the most finicky, so replicating these would be really helpfulIf no LED daughter board then I'm out. Matrix might put up more replacement PCBs on taobao anyway so the only thing I'm interested in is the PC plate.I will see what Ender can do in regards to the LED daughter board. I wasn't planning on getting those made, since I presumed those don't arrive dead.
From my experience building Matrix stuff, the LED parts are always the most finicky, so replicating these would be really helpfulIf no LED daughter board then I'm out. Matrix might put up more replacement PCBs on taobao anyway so the only thing I'm interested in is the PC plate.I will see what Ender can do in regards to the LED daughter board. I wasn't planning on getting those made, since I presumed those don't arrive dead.
From my experience building Matrix stuff, the LED parts are always the most finicky, so replicating these would be really helpfulIf no LED daughter board then I'm out. Matrix might put up more replacement PCBs on taobao anyway so the only thing I'm interested in is the PC plate.I will see what Ender can do in regards to the LED daughter board. I wasn't planning on getting those made, since I presumed those don't arrive dead.
Correct, I currently have an issue with mine where one of the LEDs in the strip triggers incorrectly when cycling through the colors.
My only problem is that stock PCB does not support ISO!
;D
do you happen to know if the 1.2 PCB would be compatible with Matrix's other TKLs? it's kinda hard to find much info on the specs for each one to compareI do not, sorry.
do you happen to know if the 1.2 PCB would be compatible with Matrix's other TKLs? it's kinda hard to find much info on the specs for each one to compareI do not, sorry.
But if someone does know, please feel free to chime in.
Are you going to make this a thin boi pcb like the original? I believe it’s 1.2mm but I didn’t put a caliper to it. A spacer for the stabs would be cool. One like Hiney includes for his thin pcbs. Use of the original led daughter board would be nice.I don't have my 1.2og in hand yet (stuck in Korea apparently) but if it's 1.2mm then this replacement will also be 1.2mm. Spacers, I can have those done.
Is it a terrible idea to eliminate the daughter board and just have those LEDs on the main board? I guess that puts too much component around that area above arrows where the controller normally sits?The problem I see is that the current daughter board is elevated. This allows the rubber surround on it to meet the top case and minimize light bleed. If the leds were right on the pcb, a solution would have to be created to fill that space between pcb and case.
I'm asking because LZ Iron has a similar ring LED as the one on Matrix 2.0 and LZ managed to put it on the main board.
This was what I was thinking.Is it a terrible idea to eliminate the daughter board and just have those LEDs on the main board? I guess that puts too much component around that area above arrows where the controller normally sits?The problem I see is that the current daughter board is elevated. This allows the rubber surround on it to meet the top case and minimize light bleed. If the leds were right on the pcb, a solution would have to be created to fill that space between pcb and case.
I'm asking because LZ Iron has a similar ring LED as the one on Matrix 2.0 and LZ managed to put it on the main board.
we released the pcb and plate file today, hope it can help you to make the board better :)
we released the pcb and plate file today, hope it can help you to make the board better :)
Thank you so much for releasing the files!
Now, someone run a PC plate GB please :)
we released the pcb and plate file today, hope it can help you to make the board better :)Thank you so much, this makes our lives way way easier.
We need POM and PBT plates... stat
Get outa here w your foamWe need POM and PBT plates... stat
I loved my POM plate on my OSA, I would definitely love on for this board, along with some foam for inbetween the plate and PCB!
Get outa here w your foamWe need POM and PBT plates... stat
I loved my POM plate on my OSA, I would definitely love on for this board, along with some foam for inbetween the plate and PCB!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Will this support the tsangan layout 1.2og or is it just wkl?Tsangan layout for WK, unless there's a lot of people that want the weird 6.25 layout for WK, I won't be adding it
QMK compatible PCB is available from their lab. Just FYI.Too difficult to obtain for westerners. Even persistent ones.
QMK compatible PCB is available from their lab. Just FYI.Too difficult to obtain for westerners. Even persistent ones.
This was what I was thinking.Is it a terrible idea to eliminate the daughter board and just have those LEDs on the main board? I guess that puts too much component around that area above arrows where the controller normally sits?The problem I see is that the current daughter board is elevated. This allows the rubber surround on it to meet the top case and minimize light bleed. If the leds were right on the pcb, a solution would have to be created to fill that space between pcb and case.
I'm asking because LZ Iron has a similar ring LED as the one on Matrix 2.0 and LZ managed to put it on the main board.
I won't be able to make comments since 1) I've never built a 1.2og 2) mine is still stuck in Korea
Expect updates when:
1) 1.2og is in my hand
2) PCB and plate is shipped out to ender
3) PCB and daughter board proto ordered
4) PCB and daughter board proto in hand
5) When it's confirmed working (if it doesn't work, go to step 3)
6) Ready to GB
The discord name is incorrect (or that's what discord says).This was what I was thinking.Is it a terrible idea to eliminate the daughter board and just have those LEDs on the main board? I guess that puts too much component around that area above arrows where the controller normally sits?The problem I see is that the current daughter board is elevated. This allows the rubber surround on it to meet the top case and minimize light bleed. If the leds were right on the pcb, a solution would have to be created to fill that space between pcb and case.
I'm asking because LZ Iron has a similar ring LED as the one on Matrix 2.0 and LZ managed to put it on the main board.
I won't be able to make comments since 1) I've never built a 1.2og 2) mine is still stuck in Korea
Expect updates when:
1) 1.2og is in my hand
2) PCB and plate is shipped out to ender
3) PCB and daughter board proto ordered
4) PCB and daughter board proto in hand
5) When it's confirmed working (if it doesn't work, go to step 3)
6) Ready to GB
Can you pm me on discord evorus#5336
1) 1.2og is in my hand
2) PCB and plate is shipped out to ender
3) PCB and daughter board proto ordered
4) PCB and daughter board proto in hand
5) When it's confirmed working (if it doesn't work, go to step 3)
6) Ready to GB
1.2og arrived today and is in my hand.
Parts that ender needs will be shipped sometime this week, he should receive it sometime this week (if USPS is fast) or next week.
For the daughter board, I plan on sourcing all the materials including: screws, the stand off thing you solder into the PCB, foam, and the acrylic/POM material thing.
I was wondering if it would be easier to move to a screw in system for the daughter board rather than soldering the stand off thing, let me know your thoughts.
1) 1.2og is in my hand
2) PCB and plate is shipped out to ender
3) PCB and daughter board proto ordered
4) PCB and daughter board proto in hand
5) When it's confirmed working (if it doesn't work, go to step 3)
6) Ready to GB
1.2og arrived today and is in my hand.
Parts that ender needs will be shipped sometime this week, he should receive it sometime this week (if USPS is fast) or next week.
For the daughter board, I plan on sourcing all the materials including: screws, the stand off thing you solder into the PCB, foam, and the acrylic/POM material thing.
I was wondering if it would be easier to move to a screw in system for the daughter board rather than soldering the stand off thing, let me know your thoughts.
pics of 1.2og pls
1) 1.2og is in my hand
2) PCB and plate is shipped out to ender
3) PCB and daughter board proto ordered
4) PCB and daughter board proto in hand
5) When it's confirmed working (if it doesn't work, go to step 3)
6) Ready to GB
1.2og arrived today and is in my hand.
Parts that ender needs will be shipped sometime this week, he should receive it sometime this week (if USPS is fast) or next week.
For the daughter board, I plan on sourcing all the materials including: screws, the stand off thing you solder into the PCB, foam, and the acrylic/POM material thing.
I was wondering if it would be easier to move to a screw in system for the daughter board rather than soldering the stand off thing, let me know your thoughts.
pics of 1.2og plsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4DHKPw9.png)
You ask, you shall receive.
Sorry for the **** photo, it's raining (and has been since Tuesday with it continuing till the weekend).
PMed you1) 1.2og is in my hand
2) PCB and plate is shipped out to ender
3) PCB and daughter board proto ordered
4) PCB and daughter board proto in hand
5) When it's confirmed working (if it doesn't work, go to step 3)
6) Ready to GB
1.2og arrived today and is in my hand.
Parts that ender needs will be shipped sometime this week, he should receive it sometime this week (if USPS is fast) or next week.
For the daughter board, I plan on sourcing all the materials including: screws, the stand off thing you solder into the PCB, foam, and the acrylic/POM material thing.
I was wondering if it would be easier to move to a screw in system for the daughter board rather than soldering the stand off thing, let me know your thoughts.
pics of 1.2og plsShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/4DHKPw9.png)
You ask, you shall receive.
Sorry for the **** photo, it's raining (and has been since Tuesday with it continuing till the weekend).
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the white dampening sheet that the 1.2og comes with? I got mine aftermarket and it didn't have it.
Screw-in system would be nice actually, but I also didn't mind soldering the standoffs.
I like the SMT standoffs. Kind of unique and was fun to figure out how to get it to attach. Digi-Key offers them I know, but I’m sure you could dig them up cheaper in bulk.I'll need to do some testing to see if the screws hit the dampening plastic, but the more I think about it, the more likely I feel about keeping the standoffs. Although going screw in would make things a tiny bit easier, I don't really want to take away from the experience.
Will the pcb use USB type-c or stick with Mini USB? That would be a nice change. Not sure if clearance would be an issue. Don’t have my board with me atm.Will stay mini B for the time being
Update:
Bottom row cannot be made to fit 6.25U since spacing is different and it'll fit weirdly/may not fit at all.
Working on light bar daughterboard + sourcing all the needed screws, standoffs, etc.
Vendors found for all regions
Please consider split Rshift!Alternative layouts are off the table since the spacing is different compared to "normal" spacing. I will try to get Ender to entertain the idea again.
Would it be possible to flip the Mini USB port, with it being upside down and all the way on the right side of the board I tend to have to force my cables to stay upside down, causing extra strain on the port when the cable tries to flip.This is something we can entertain.
Will be released soon!Update:
Bottom row cannot be made to fit 6.25U since spacing is different and it'll fit weirdly/may not fit at all.
Working on light bar daughterboard + sourcing all the needed screws, standoffs, etc.
Vendors found for all regions
Who will the NA vendor be?
Matrix team is fully booked for weight development, it's nice to see they can outsource pcb production!I'm just some dude who wants a 1.2og PCB
are these proto pcbs that you ordered? or ready to ship to us :OProtos.
Will the pcb use USB type-c or stick with Mini USB? That would be a nice change. Not sure if clearance would be an issue. Don’t have my board with me atm.Will stay mini B for the time being
[/quote
that only thing that I miss, wish there was type C, but it's alright, will join for PCB and plate ( if you can prefer POM or Carbon). lol :p
are these proto pcbs that you ordered? or ready to ship to us :OProtos.
Will post pics once I get one of them.
Sorry :(Will the pcb use USB type-c or stick with Mini USB? That would be a nice change. Not sure if clearance would be an issue. Don’t have my board with me atm.Will stay mini B for the time being
[/quote
that only thing that I miss, wish there was type C, but it's alright, will join for PCB and plate ( if you can prefer POM or Carbon). lol :pShould arrive soon.are these proto pcbs that you ordered? or ready to ship to us :OProtos.
Will post pics once I get one of them.
What the eta on the proto?
Mine is slowly dying lolAny plans for an FR4 1/2 plate?FR4 full and half
PC full and half
these are the plan but not concrete.Split R shift would be nice for sure. However, any hopes for split HHKB style backspace support?Matrix 1.2og pcb supported layouts so nothing special but ISO support was added.Does anyone know how the lightbar on the original 1.2 pcb was made? Also an array of smd rgb leds?Daughterboard with array of SMD leds.
Our version will be using more SMD leds, but are smaller. Same effect will be achieved. The combo will include all the necessary hardware (standoffs, jst conenctor, screws, that small gasket/protector against light bleed thingy, etc.)
Good evening, during this time of being stuck in the house and with my Polaris no where to be seen, I made an impulse purchase of a beautiful olive Matrix 1.2og. I learned that Matrix does not make replacement PCBs and although I am getting a brand new PCB with it, I fear the day where I find out my PCB is dead.
In order to combat this, I've decided to enlist the help of PCB guru Ender to create a PCB that can be a drop in replacement for the 1.2og. When my Matrix arrives, I will be shipping it directly to him so he can begin work on it.
TLDR: I'm getting replacement 1.2og PCBs made
Drop in for 1.2og
Designed by Ender
ESD protection
QMK compat and possibly VIA
Maybe FR4 plates if people want them?
Fill out IC form so you can give me feedback on what y'all want.
IC FORM HERE (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeqp9zJnkOGf_VgqmuKIeFTiWa5hEWg6dfpolts2t4BUhc1Ew/viewform?usp=sf_link)
Any thoughts on offering a silicon pad that fits between place/pcb, similar to the 2.0 Add?
I am definitely in for one, but in the meantime, does anyone have a cheat sheet for the stock 1.2 pcb LED controls? I've figured most of it, (pause + tab) as well as changing speed and colors, but can't seem to get a static color. Any help is appreciated!
Any thoughts on offering a silicon pad that fits between place/pcb, similar to the 2.0 Add?Sorry, I don't want to have too many things going on at the same time.
Excited for this! Also, probably the wrong place to ask, but does anyone know all the default LED lighting controls?Just received and all I've figured out is that tab+pause is how to change the patterns.
Edit: Figured out a bit more, pause+1 or 2 changes colors for the led pattern that has two "beams" moving around. For the pattern that has 4 colors of beams moving around, pause+1,2,3,4 control those colors. Light bar seems to react to tab+q, w, e, r, but not sure what these 4 key combinations do.
Edit 2: Pause+s controls speed. It cycles through speed options and then wraps back around.
Edit 3: Pause+c controls color for the patter than consists of the led pattern that moves from left to right. Who would have thought.
Edit 4: Pause+n controls "length" of the led pattern that moves from left to right.
Right now, Ender and I need to put all our files together and send it to Upas. We have it scattered across 2 different group chats and we're both busy but this is just to let y'all know that we still intend to get this going.
Sorry it's taking so long, I won't give excuses as they aren't really necessary.
My matrix 1.2og pcb just died on me for no apparent reason. kaput, nothing, no power coming through.Well good thing for you, all the files have been sent over to Upas.
hoodrow, you are our (actually my) only hope.
My matrix 1.2og pcb just died on me for no apparent reason. kaput, nothing, no power coming through.Well good thing for you, all the files have been sent over to Upas.
hoodrow, you are our (actually my) only hope.
My matrix 1.2og pcb just died on me for no apparent reason. kaput, nothing, no power coming through.Well good thing for you, all the files have been sent over to Upas.
hoodrow, you are our (actually my) only hope.
My matrix 1.2og pcb just died on me for no apparent reason. kaput, nothing, no power coming through.
hoodrow, you are our (actually my) only hope.
2.0 next plsI did consider 2.0add but that one is a tough one to get done.
I did hear that H87 technically fits but will need some modification.
2.0add or 2.0. I heard that the spacing is only shorter on certain boards (ie: 1.2og)I did hear that H87 technically fits but will need some modification.
I measured the spacing between left arrow and right control and it's shorter on 2.0 than H88. I don't have H87 but I would assume the spacing is the same on H88 and H87. All Matrix TKLs have the same slightly shorter spacing
2.0add or 2.0. I heard that the spacing is only shorter on certain boards (ie: 1.2og)I did hear that H87 technically fits but will need some modification.
I measured the spacing between left arrow and right control and it's shorter on 2.0 than H88. I don't have H87 but I would assume the spacing is the same on H88 and H87. All Matrix TKLs have the same slightly shorter spacing
Welp - I got my original 1.2og pcb repaired (it just died one day for no apparent reason). Worked fine again for half a day when I got it back from being repaired, then the same thing happened - just died.
I think this pcb has some real issues man, it needs to go see a counsellor or something.
Can't wait for the replacement!
Welp - I got my original 1.2og pcb repaired (it just died one day for no apparent reason). Worked fine again for half a day when I got it back from being repaired, then the same thing happened - just died.
I think this pcb has some real issues man, it needs to go see a counsellor or something.
Can't wait for the replacement!
For anyone wondering if this is dead, no it's not dead.
Upas told me that he'll have time to dive into this once his keyboard GBs are complete (so in a week or so).For anyone wondering if this is dead, no it's not dead.
My PCB is dead. Should I wait for this or keep bothering Albertzzz on the matrix discord to sell me a replacement PCB?
Love seeing helpful people like this. So wholesome and nice.Welp - I got my original 1.2og pcb repaired (it just died one day for no apparent reason). Worked fine again for half a day when I got it back from being repaired, then the same thing happened - just died.
I think this pcb has some real issues man, it needs to go see a counsellor or something.
Can't wait for the replacement!
Man, I feel bad just reading this lol. I have a spare desoldered PCB and brand new light bar that's yours if you just pay shipping if you needed it
the plates are still a thing? FR4/PC, Half/fullplate?I'll make sure that it's a thing.
the plates are still a thing? FR4/PC, Half/fullplate?I'll make sure that it's a thing.
I really want to try PC half/full on this board, it would probably sound pretty damn good.
the plates are still a thing? FR4/PC, Half/fullplate?I'll make sure that it's a thing.
I really want to try PC half/full on this board, it would probably sound pretty damn good.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/z9ZgyI9.png)
Can this be used for Abel-X?YMMV
There were some questions posed about the 1.2og pcb working in AbelX. I am currently using a 1.2og yellow pcb in my abelx, albeit there are some caveats.
- For alphas everything is fine
- For tkl cluster (arrows, print screen/delete etc) spacing is off
- I had to cut and trim the pegs in switches to make them fit, but it works
- Mini-USB port sits further back on 1.2og pcb compared to the abelx pcb, which extends the mini-usb port out about 1cm. Usb ports align, however, which means if you have a small cable it works fine.
I would not recommend doing this, but if you are in a pinch and want to use your abelx, a 1.2og pcb will work...sort of
Hope this helps, and gives some closure to the issue.
edit: I figured it was obvious, but without some janky hand wiring the leds will not work...as there are none on the board.
Any chance you might have some news for us soon? Been terribly excited for this to get goingProtos didn't go into production till after CNY (we hoped it'd be done before then), so Upas is await them currently.
Protos didn't go into production till after CNY (we hoped it'd be done before then), so Upas is await them currently.
I'm again, sorry to keep everyone waiting. :-[
Protos didn't go into production till after CNY (we hoped it'd be done before then), so Upas is await them currently.
I'm again, sorry to keep everyone waiting. :-[
Nothing to apologize for, appreciate the update!
Is this project still alive
Really glad to have found this project!
I just acquired a 1.2OG and was surprised to learn the pcb is not QMK compatible..
Also would really be interested in the other plate options (not sure if there's any alternatives around atm)
Would appreciate some pics / typing tests of the protos if you have the chance! :)
Really glad to have found this project!
I just acquired a 1.2OG and was surprised to learn the pcb is not QMK compatible..
Also would really be interested in the other plate options (not sure if there's any alternatives around atm)
Would appreciate some pics / typing tests of the protos if you have the chance! :)
Sound test => it'll sound like a 1.2og, there's plenty of them floating around.
PCB pictures => we got the protos made in green, I can take a picture of the one that's in my board but it's literally just a green PCB.
Plates => Upas and I are opting to run without offering plates, mostly because 1) plate files are posted on page 2 2) strictly due to time constraints, this project has sort of dragged along for a while now and I think it's time to just get this going. I do wish we could have gotten around to doing plates but knowing how busy we (Upas and I) are going to be these next upcoming months, easier to just get them out the door this way.
While waiting for these to become avail XYZ and I ported the original Matrix 1.2OG PCB to QMK.
The PR just got merged: https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/pull/11614
So if you don't want to wait any longer for basic QMK capabilities you can use the original PCB now as well (RGB works too btw).
The only downside of this is that you can't use VIA because of the MCU that was used on those boards (STM32 without EEPROM storage).
(I personally am still going to get one of the replacements for VIA support.)
nvm...
latest chibios update in QMK broke the port completely. Don't use it for now :-X