It's going to be tough the beat the original case as is. It's got clean lines and is built solid. Is there much motivation to upgrade other than just to say it's aluminum?
I'm possibly interested, but it would have to be almost identical to the Filco design, a real eye catcher.
Nice avatar btw. :)
It's going to be tough the beat the original case as is. It's got clean lines and is built solid. Is there much motivation to upgrade other than just to say it's aluminum?
I'm possibly interested, but it would have to be almost identical to the Filco design, a real eye catcher.
Nice avatar btw. :)
Swede, have you made others before? If so are there photos?I have not. This was an idea I got a long time ago. But got the chance to finalise it when I bought the Phantom :)
is there any way to make it basically the same width and height as the pcb? (ie as little surrounding frame as humanly possible?Nope. To make it fit the Phantom that uses a mountingplate bigger than the PCB this is not possible.
I'm interested, will depend on the final price tho.
Same here.
I'm interested in the Filco version. Any details on how the case will secure together? Also, what are the chances of offering multiple colors for the anodizing?
If multiple colors aren't possible, is it possible to offer both anodized and un-anodized? That way people could potentially find someone locally that does anodizing to get whatever color they wanted.No problem at all. But price will be the same :/
Interested in 1 for Filco. Would you ship to New Zealand?
The case will be screwed together. Feet will also be screwed into place.
Multiple colours will not be offered I am afraid. But I am willing to change the current colour if there is enough support for a single colour.
Yes, I can ship to New Zealand. Shipping is about 50 NZD.
PLEASE out me down for one as well. I have a spare Filco just screaming for your keyboard case........ is that what it's called?
Regardless, I'm in.
Just give us the Paypal address for payment and we'll be in it.
Yes, I can ship to New Zealand. Shipping is about 50 NZD.
mosdef? waUtalkin'bout?
otoh i insist that this case can be made smaller and still secured.
otoh it's your design. i'm interested to see what the final design is and may very well be in for a couple.
I can decrease length with about 4mm but then the walls will be very thin and will be hard to machine without warping. Tolerances will be really bad if I decrease length.understood. maybe we can do a second run of super minimalist cases for ourselves as an indulgence ;)
I can decrease width with 2mm but then I can't use countersunk screws. More than that and screws will peek out and you will see them from the front of the case.
I have to keep it this size for ease of manufacturing and looks. Any smaller and I will have problems.
I know this since the size I started with was 355x137. It has grown over time and I was reluctant to do these changes. I was even thinking of using angled screws and alternate (damn expensive and hard to make) ways of securing the halves together.
understood. maybe we can do a second run of super minimalist cases for ourselves as an indulgence ;)
(for curiosity's sake, did you try cutting material out of each surface without decreasing wall thickness? eg, a webbing type of pattern on top and sides. also obviously i'm fine with exposed screw/fasteners, etc.)
first, for weight savings, solid walls can have sections cut or scalloped out. the top panel, for example, could have a pattern machined into it.
second, to decrease overall dimensions, remove sections from the side. for example, instead of having solid edging all the way around, have the top panel only extend to the edge in the few places that it needs to be fastened (via screws) to the bottom panel, or barring that, cut some kind of honeycomb into the edging.
unfortunately, it doesn't sound like many other folks would be into this, but i'd be!
Interested in both layouts! Do note that Vortex is also making a Filco aluminum case, so whichever metal case comes out first will get my money. I don't think I'm patient enough to wait for both to come out to decide :/
Guys, I have seen swede's most recent 3D drawings and have been giving him feedback based on my experience building my Phantom/Filco acrylic cases. He knows what he is doing and his design is very good.yah, it's really because i'm obsessed with things that are tiny and light. i'm totally fine with his current design and will be in for 2-3.
I am not sure what the purpose would be to remove more material than necessary. The more you remove, the longer it is going to take to mill it, and it is going to cost more to make. More over, if you have seen pictures of some of those 356 cases, you'd see Korean folks mill out more aluminum material so they can install a big ass copper bar into the make it heavier. The heavier the better. You get an aluminum case not because it is a great case for a traveling keyboard. You want it because it is cool and it is sturdy like a rock.
yah, it's really because i'm obsessed with things that are tiny and light. i'm totally fine with his current design and will be in for 2-3.
i'm guessing i can find the inflection point at which you don't think that heavier is better ;)
that is quite heavy.
How many colors will be available and is it compatible to ISO DE Filcos?Will be one colour avaliable.
damn. i would love to have one but the price is above my price range..Price is not set. I am nearing $150 per case if everyone who have shown interests orders. More orders will get them even cheaper :)
I think once there is a prototype to show, there will be a lot more interest - especially for all those Filco TKL owners!I would imagine that :)
This is probably a noob question, but would this fit a cm storm quickfire?No idea. Have not seen any pictures fo the PCB and controller.
This is probably a noob question, but would this fit a cm storm quickfire?
Price is not set. I am nearing $150 per case if everyone who have shown interests orders. More orders will get them even cheaper :)
Price is not set. I am nearing $150 per case if everyone who have shown interests orders. More orders will get them even cheaper :)
Bit of a stretch of what?His money? ;)
when it comes down to it, the potential price for what's being offered here... the value, it's incredible. anyone balking at that needs to get slapped around.
the problem that -i- face is that i embarked on a project without a defined budget, a huge desire and vision, and limited funding. there are many guys here who clearly do not have the restriction of the 3rd item... but that's simply not a reality for me. there's also some of us that are unwilling to spend money we don't have for 'nice to have' items.
however, i WILL find the funds.
one question though, and this might be addressed in a prototype. in the acrylic cases, the thickness of the top plate allows the bottom of the keys to be exposed (since it's only 1/4" thick). will the wall height above the plate be greater, so that the bottom edge of the keycap is not exposed? the OTD cases all have a slightly higher lip/wall, and i think it results in a nice aesthetic, and mirrors the design of the filco case much more closely in that regard.
on the other hand, i appreciate the size and proportions of the rendering, and wouldn't want to see it be any smaller. these are not minimalist boards, that's what pokers/pure/hhkb/choc mini are for.
The walls are 6.8mm thick :)
Would it be possible to break the case up into three pieces, a top, middle, and bottom plate? Doing something like that would allow for some awesome color combinations, similar to litster's acrylic cases. Even if you're doing a single color run, having the middle plate anodized "nude" would look spiffy in contrast to a different colored top and bottom plate.
Would it be possible to break the case up into three pieces, a top, middle, and bottom plate? Doing something like that would allow for some awesome color combinations, similar to litster's acrylic cases. Even if you're doing a single color run, having the middle plate anodized "nude" would look spiffy in contrast to a different colored top and bottom plate.
Would it be possible to break the case up into three pieces, a top, middle, and bottom plate? Doing something like that would allow for some awesome color combinations, similar to litster's acrylic cases. Even if you're doing a single color run, having the middle plate anodized "nude" would look spiffy in contrast to a different colored top and bottom plate.
possibly.
but im guessing it would cost more money. and some people are already iffy about the (IMO) very cheap 150 it'll probably cost.
I will not do this. It's way to late to change the design, and even if it was possible I would not do it.good! there is absolutely nothing that needs to be changed about this case.
And concerning the differences in colour between the halves; This will most likely not happen.
Everything will get lowered into the same tub at the same time.
150 is a good price. the thing is that i don't have a filco TKL. unless it fits my realforce 86u, that would mean i have to purchase another filco on top of that.
So...on an unrelated note...anybody know how to come up with $180 on the quick? :biggrin:
So...on an unrelated note...anybody know how to come up with $180 on the quick? :biggrin:
When are you planning on taking orders? I apologize for not going through pages 2-6, at work, but seriously, just take my money
Supposedly, Vortex is going to release a tenkeyless aluminum like your first pic, but no details on pricing, and they were supposed to announce it on facebook this month...
swede, i'm in for 3Nice :)
Is the Vortex one tenkeyless or smaller?Vortex make a tenkeyless.
Is the Vortex one tenkeyless or smaller?
good! there is absolutely nothing that needs to be changed about this case.
it won't fit your realforce. it's specifically made for filco (which will also fit phantom since it was designed to fit in a filco case)
Will this go faster than the Truly Ergonomic from 3D rendering to final product?
actually, Swede made this case specifically for the Phantom only, then decided to make sure it would work with the Filco as well.
Will this go faster than the Truly Ergonomic from 3D rendering to final product?Unless someone kills me or the workshop burns to the ground things should be just fine. :)
Unless someone kills me or the workshop burns to the ground things should be just fine. :)
just got the watercut blocks :)
They look really good, nice and precise! Sorry about the size and quality, took them with my phone...
(Attachment) 44858[/ATTACH]
(Attachment) 44859[/ATTACH]
The " 'protrusions' " are for the winkeyless version. I let the watercutter have those shaped and then I just cut them off for those who wish not to have them.
These are just the precut blocks. These are the blocks I get before I stick it into the CNC. Why the top part is shaped to the final keyboard is so that it will be faster to cut in the CNC. I only need to make a 1mm cut to get to the final shape. Then ofc I need to mill the inside of the block to make them stick together.
The final prototypes should hopefully be done on wednesday if everything goes to plan, but I've had no luck with that so far ;)
The " 'protrusions' " are for the winkeyless version. I let the watercutter have those shaped and then I just cut them off for those who wish not to have them.
Ahh I see, ingenious! Why no luck with the plan?
I was going to ask if you were considering winkeyless, and its awesome that you have. I don't have a need for one, but good call. Can't wait for the next iteration.
Hmm, what if you're interested in a windows key? lolWill have a case with room for winkey :)
This case look awesome, especially since I was thinking about picking up a filco ten keyless
i'd like to run a powdercoat service for these units so that we can all get ours colored for a reasonable price. i'll open up an interest thread for this and oneproduct's cases tomorrow.Shipping will be a ***** mkawa, just so you know.... I have no problem with you doing that service at all, but know that shipping may cost a lot.
Will have a case with room for winkey :)shipping from me or to me?
Shipping will be a ***** mkawa, just so you know.... I have no problem with you doing that service at all, but know that shipping may cost a lot.
I've read alot about instances where people say its fine to powdercoat over anodized parts. Not sure how different the outcome will be though.I mean, either way, the Aluminium will have a thin coating of oxidation (Al2O3) that forms almost immediately after exposure to air. Anodizing just serves to make this layer thicker (and, often, introduce dye as an interstitial, to give it colour). Either way, you're painting onto a layer of Aluminium Oxide.
So here we go again! (****)
Recieved my Filco earlier today. Turns out that the Filco is bigger than I thought. So it won't fit. . .
This means that the blocks I have to make the prototypes are to small to make them into the Final shape. But I can use them to test out the inside of the case, all is not lost with those cases.
So I have to redesign the case, make it bigger and try again. So expect atleast 1 week delay on the prototypes.
So here we go again! (****)wait can you clarify this? does it fit the phantom pcb but not the filco? i only plan on casing phantoms...
Recieved my Filco earlier today. Turns out that the Filco is bigger than I thought. So it won't fit. . .
This means that the blocks I have to make the prototypes are to small to make them into the Final shape. But I can use them to test out the inside of the case, all is not lost with those cases.
So I have to redesign the case, make it bigger and try again. So expect atleast 1 week delay on the prototypes.
wait can you clarify this? does it fit the phantom pcb but not the filco? i only plan on casing phantoms...
actually that was not so straightforward to understand for the rest of us, litster. thanks for the overwhelmingly clear explanation (forgot about the plate fitment issues entirely)
Did the prototype for the topcase today! Yaaaayyy!!
No pictures however as it looks like ****. Umm, it does not look good as it is now.
So I need to make some fixtures to make it rigid and not bend like a banana when I start milling...
So expect about 1 month(!) additional development time, as next week will be a standard school week for me.
Even if I use the bigger blocks it will bend. This is mostly for the top part, as there is so little material.
So for me this is getting interesting, for you guys your wait just got longer :)
phantoms aren't coming in for another month and a half or so. take your time!
Did the prototype for the topcase today! Yaaaayyy!!
No pictures however as it looks like ****. Umm, it does not look good as it is now.
So I need to make some fixtures to make it rigid and not bend like a banana when I start milling...
So expect about 1 month(!) additional development time, as next week will be a standard school week for me.
Even if I use the bigger blocks it will bend. This is mostly for the top part, as there is so little material.
So for me this is getting interesting, for you guys your wait just got longer :)
No! My filcos, along with many many others, are ready and waiting!
I was beginning to wonder about your progress. So great timing there.
Too bad about the problems though. But I guess it's good for your schoolwork. Always useful to encounter a few obstacles on the way. Gives you something to write about in your report.
I personally don't mind waiting. It's the end result that counts.
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.agreed! learning experiences are always good!
The Filcos is what has made the most delays. I had to make a lot of changes to make them fit!
If not for them, I would possibly have discovered this 2 weeks ago ;)
And also this change will assure a nice and good looking case. It will also decrease tolerances. :)
You know I was just joking lol! Well I can say from experience with building pcs etc that no project gives you a sense of satisfaction at the end like overcoming a few unexpected obstacles and screw ups. The delays just make me look forward to the case more!
If theres one for a CM Storm i am interested.
Not gonna happen, due to USB controller placement.
Does anyone know if Leopold boards fit in Filco cases?Someone (sorry, I don't remember who) had measured both keyboards and found that they don't. The spacing between key groups is slightly different.
Does anyone know if Leopold boards fit in Filco cases?
I'm now waiting for the vortex alu case. Seems like that one is also delayed.
welcome back swede!!! glad you're not lying in a ditch somewhere :P
case is looking good!
ps, since it sounds like you have reasonably priced machine time, and are relatively local to damorgue, could you please ping him?
thanks buds!
Damn. I'm so broke now, too! :(
excellent!!welcome back swede!!! glad you're not lying in a ditch somewhere :P
case is looking good!
ps, since it sounds like you have reasonably priced machine time, and are relatively local to damorgue, could you please ping him?
thanks buds!
I've talked with him a bit since I restarted the case, and he has recommended an anodiser for me, if I'm lucky they might do my prototypes for free (just dropping it in with some other stuff), so I can give you guys some concrete colours to decide from :)
And my machine cost is unbeatable, it's half of what most can offer since it's on my school, might even get it for free if I do a very limited series, they said that I can do about 40cases for free. And judging from the support I got last time I guess I will pass that limit ;)
But we have only talked about my own case, Don't know about his 3d printed stuff.. :/excellent!!welcome back swede!!! glad you're not lying in a ditch somewhere :P
case is looking good!
ps, since it sounds like you have reasonably priced machine time, and are relatively local to damorgue, could you please ping him?
thanks buds!
I've talked with him a bit since I restarted the case, and he has recommended an anodiser for me, if I'm lucky they might do my prototypes for free (just dropping it in with some other stuff), so I can give you guys some concrete colours to decide from :)
And my machine cost is unbeatable, it's half of what most can offer since it's on my school, might even get it for free if I do a very limited series, they said that I can do about 40cases for free. And judging from the support I got last time I guess I will pass that limit ;)
some fine cuts on the the exterior of his 3d-printed parts might just give it the finish he's been looking for... ;)
I haven't brought it up yet. One thing at a time. I only offered to help him with his case, anodizing and such. I don't want to slow down the progress on the case, I intend to buy one eventually.
Great progress btw, keep it up. Let me know if you need help with anything else. I can visit the anodizer to do a quality check and hopefully all the cases won't disappear during my visit ;D
So when will this be happening?I will not give a deadline, but it hope it's in a few weeks atleast for the prototype.
So when will this be happening?I will not give a deadline, but it hope it's in a few weeks atleast for the prototype.
I am waaay to optimistic with deadlines, so better if I dont make any.
Interested in 2x 7bit depending on price.
Not quite sure what height you're talking about... Standard teensy install instructions on a Phantom board removes the plastic spacers and you are supposed to air-gap the controller off the main PCB with a slip of paper or some such. The thickest part at this point is the USB cable and there are some that are just too thick, especially with the teensy so close to the main PCB.
Even so the Teensy does not fit, so I still need to redesign the case. I made room for the height I was given, and I was sure of that the measurment I was given was correct. So I made room for a "standard" cable. And the teensy height I have now does not fit even if I gave it some extra room
are compatible plates/boards still available for purchase someplace?Nope, group buy was over a long time ago, and there are no extras. Round2 phantom might happen, but that won't be for a long time.
Any estimates to how much this will add on to the price since you need to order thicker aluminum blocks now? The areas that are not hollowed out looks very thick now, which is a good thing :DNot so much of an increase, but $10 maximum. More pieces it will cost about $5/ piece. But it's going to take longer to machine, where the main cost is. So instead of machining out 1.5kg, I machine out 2kg. Luckily most of that can be faced out with a big tool. So that time is minimised.
I see three problems:
A) I would still consider the holes that protrude the inner radii to be a problem. They will break either the mill bit or the drill bit quite a lot depending on what order you do them. At least that is the case with stainless steel. Aluminum might be soft enough to not break them.
B) The design seems to require several different mill bits. Places around supports with rounds will suit a ball end mill bit while the sharp corners will require a flute mill bit.
C) (Letters and previous arrows are from your image and not related to my A and B)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dAMqT.jpg)
That incline will be difficult. It is related to B. Imagine your mill bit travelling up and down, or from side to side. How will the edge of that incline look. If you use a flute mill bit to get the sharp edge (marked in image), thenj it won't be sharp when the bit travels in an incline., you need another axis on your mill to make it sharp. There are a couple of these inclines with sharp edges.
The chamfers might be good to keep the cables from chafing, but really, how much will the cable move around? I don't think many people will complain about aesthetics on the inside if you decide to remove features there.
The shear force on the support stands will be close to none, so I agree that the fillet there is unnecessary, but if you are going to use a ball end, then you may as well leave it. Once you have decided what mill bits to use, I would stick to them throughout the design.
I want to reduce the toll it will have on my wallet, which is why I am trying to reduce unnecessary expenses :P
What is the plan for securing the cable? Looking at the pics, it looks like you had something in mind. Some standard plug which you snap on the cable and then push down, or just make the cable itself end there with its socket, or? I may have missed it if you mentioned it earlier.
You could make it compatible with something like this:
https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/init.do?item=55-011-50&toc=20639
You snap it on the cable and then push it down a slit in the case which fixates it.
Cable glands are a good idea. I've always supported their use, even in DIY designs.
I also like damorgue's Z-shape cable routing.
I was going to say some things about the design, but he already said them! That guy knows a lot about manufacturing, and I've never done it in the real world.
What size ball end(s) are you using? It might be possible to make the cable channel rounded on the bottom. I'll be making my USB cables, so I'm good for anything 1.7mm to 6mm in diameter.
Is their room inside for the stock Filco cablelock?You can stuff it in the slot where the Teensy is supposed to go, it's 8.5mm of clearence there, lots of room.
I'm not convinced that sharp a bend radius for the cable will work as well long-term. The second bend looks good, though.Cable glands are a good idea. I've always supported their use, even in DIY designs.
I also like damorgue's Z-shape cable routing.
I was going to say some things about the design, but he already said them! That guy knows a lot about manufacturing, and I've never done it in the real world.
What size ball end(s) are you using? It might be possible to make the cable channel rounded on the bottom. I'll be making my USB cables, so I'm good for anything 1.7mm to 6mm in diameter.
Right now I try and make room for a standard 4mm USB cable.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HhpGt.jpg)
I hope to make a quick prototype of this today to see how my design works. The 90° vertical bend might mess up the hold on the cable so it wont stay in place.
Going to make a rounded bottom and a flat, to see how both works.
This design will however make the Filco cablelock useless, so either you have to cut it off or stow it away.
I am definitly getting this even if i have to sell one of my kidneyDamn. I'm so broke now, too! :(
You'll have time to save.
It will take a few weeks before I can get the prototype done. And I will wait some weeks after that to get a decent bunch of orders.
what software are you making that in?I am using Solidworks to make this design.
Well if you want price rape, go to the other Filco metal case by feng/MKC and order that one. It's available now for $355 shipped. I'm just waiting to see how this one unfolds.The MKC is worth it's price imo. You're able to choose from almost any colour for your case, and the quality is top notch!
how about checking with treble and linking this to the gh60 case to cut the costs?
I decided to make another since he hasn't responded or been active since. I hope Swede doesn't mind, but here is some info on it (http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/case-discussions-t4530.html). Currently discussing pricing on it.
I will drop it if he returns though, as he had access to cheaper machine time.