FWIW, the plate design pictured is compatible with PCB mount Cherry stabs and plate mount Costar. Plate mount Cherry requires a different shape hole (more is cut away).
Cool idea! Did you prototype this first?Not yet, finalizing the design before I prototype.
Is this why the notches aren't shown in the diagram in the OP currently?Cool idea! Did you prototype this first?Not yet, finalizing the design before I prototype.
Oh good! Sweet! I'll make sure that I don't miss this buy!Cool idea! Did you prototype this first?Not yet, finalizing the design before I prototype.
Is this why the notches aren't shown in the diagram in the OP currently?
Thanks for organizing this. One other question: Is this Phantom-PCB compatible? I want to use this in a QF rapid case.
Oh, I didn't realize the notches were being done this way. It makes sense now. I had thought I read somewhere about Phantom compatibility, but I didn't see it in the OP. I just needed to reread the title, I guess. Double fail on my part, sorry.Is this why the notches aren't shown in the diagram in the OP currently?
Thanks for organizing this. One other question: Is this Phantom-PCB compatible? I want to use this in a QF rapid case.
Are you talking about the notches for every switch? They're there, you just have to click on the pic to zoom in.
It's phantom compatible. Even says so in the title lol.
Want 3 for my filcos
I prefer phantom style might be able to ask biphiany to help with the plate should just need to modify the phantom plate slightly. As for getting them cut talk to the_beast
on costa?Want 3 for my filcos
I prefer phantom style might be able to ask biphiany to help with the plate should just need to modify the phantom plate slightly. As for getting them cut talk to the_beast
I was sent my file to the_beast :) but he said some issue on costa :|
costa stab :) some issue about thickness of plate :|hmm i got mine cut and i worked fine on my phantoms... (not through him though) I believe it was just 16 gauge stainless id have to look it up again to make 100% sure though
hmm i got mine cut and i worked fine on my phantoms... (not through him though) I believe it was just 16 gauge stainless id have to look it up again to make 100% sure though
Want 3 for my filcos
I prefer phantom style might be able to ask biphiany to help with the plate should just need to modify the phantom plate slightly. As for getting them cut talk to the_beast
your holes for the switches look completely different to me and I just used to the Phantom style onesWant 3 for my filcos
I prefer phantom style might be able to ask biphiany to help with the plate should just need to modify the phantom plate slightly. As for getting them cut talk to the_beast
What's the difference between "phantom style" and the one I'm designing? They're functionally the same. Except, with the stabilizer cutouts on mine, it accepts cherry PCB mounts in both directions. Not sure if any TKL boards have backwards mounted stabilizers, but since this is "universal" I made it for backwards mounting too. Costar stabilizers can only be mounted in one direction though because of how the plastic clips are designed. Phantom plate can only support cherry/costar mounting in one direction.
your holes for the switches look completely different to me and I just used to the Phantom style ones
What's the difference between "phantom style" and the one I'm designing? They're functionally the same. Except, with the stabilizer cutouts on mine, it accepts cherry PCB mounts in both directions. Not sure if any TKL boards have backwards mounted stabilizers, but since this is "universal" I made it for backwards mounting too. Costar stabilizers can only be mounted in one direction though because of how the plastic clips are designed. Phantom plate can only support cherry/costar mounting in one direction.
Price to lasercut one part would be $50
Price to lasercut 20 parts or more would be $23.50 each
Price is for lasercutting either 16 gauge aluminum or stainless steel and does not include material.
If you want to waterjet the parts take the laser price x 3. Normally waterjet is selected if the material is thicker than .375 SS, or .250 aluminum.
Normally we are not supplying material.
I sent price quote rests to many local metal cutting companies, still waiting for responses from most. The closest one is beating around the bush with back and forth email before they're actually giving me a quote. A few companies have absurd prices, but here is the best one so far:QuotePrice to lasercut one part would be $50
Price to lasercut 20 parts or more would be $23.50 each
Price is for lasercutting either 16 gauge aluminum or stainless steel and does not include material.
If you want to waterjet the parts take the laser price x 3. Normally waterjet is selected if the material is thicker than .375 SS, or .250 aluminum.
Normally we are not supplying material.
I'm trying to aim for $25 per plate, including material so I'll wait for quotes from other companies first before posting the google doc order sheet up.
I'm trying to aim for $25 per plate, including material so I'll wait for quotes from other companies first before posting the google doc order sheet up.
I've been trying to stay away from this thread just because I don't want to take away from your GB but when I saw those prices :(
I can get a single plate done for around $29, 3 for ~$27 and I'm guessing 20 would be around $18-$20 (in stainless, I'm guessing alum would be just a bit cheaper). If you want to collect all the money and make a single order to me I'd have no problem doing that. I'd ship all the plates you and you handle all the shipping
What's most important, though, is that the top and bottom have full contact on the switch. It's where that plastic spring is, and where most of the holding force will be I'm less worried about side-to-side, as long as it's precise cutting so it won't move. The actual area doesn't mean that much.your holes for the switches look completely different to me and I just used to the Phantom style ones
What's the difference between "phantom style" and the one I'm designing? They're functionally the same. Except, with the stabilizer cutouts on mine, it accepts cherry PCB mounts in both directions. Not sure if any TKL boards have backwards mounted stabilizers, but since this is "universal" I made it for backwards mounting too. Costar stabilizers can only be mounted in one direction though because of how the plastic clips are designed. Phantom plate can only support cherry/costar mounting in one direction.
I don't think you're fully understanding how the cutout holes for the switches work. Doesn't really matter how they "look", it's the end function. A hole from the phantom has very small corner flaps and 2 large side flaps to hold the switch in place. You really don't need those middle flaps if you already have corner flaps to lock down the switch. What I did in this plate was completely remove the middle flap, and made the corner flaps larger. That's the only difference. The Korean LZ plates are designed like this too, without the unnecessary center flap. I did this so that possibly it could make the laser cutting a tad cheaper with a more simple design. When I get quotes, I'll see if there are any differences in price between the two designs.
blue = switch
red = top housing switch tabs
yellow = area of contact between switch and plate
dark grey = plateShow Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/phantomvscustom1.png)
What's most important, though, is that the top and bottom have full contact on the switch. It's where that plastic spring is, and where most of the holding force will be I'm less worried about side-to-side, as long as it's precise cutting so it won't move. The actual area doesn't mean that much.
How much more does anodizing cost?Would like to know this as well.
How much more does anodizing cost?
]Would like to know this as well.
Is ISO Filco-TKL possible?Possible, but not for this GB. Several switch holes are different, so it's going to be pretty expensive to cut 1 plate. If you're truly interested and willing to pay prototype costs, you can PM me.
Question: Doesn't preventing the switch from latching into the plate compromise the stability that plate mounting switches give you? Or am I missing something?
Signed up for the buy. What's the payment PayPal?
It's in the order form, but I also just PMed it to you just in case.
Will you alert us as to when you believe they will be ready to go into production so we can pay?
I re-read the whole thread, but I wasn't sure if this was answered.. Are the plates going to be different across different boards? If I fill out Quickfire Rapid on the form, would I be able to use it in a Filco?
You can start paying right now. Order will actually close soon, and payment deadline is in a little more than a week.
You can start paying right now. Order will actually close soon, and payment deadline is in a little more than a week.
If I already submitted the order, and just didn't pay, is it as simple as just sending $35 to your PayPal with my user name noted? Or should I do it all over again from the Order form?
Also, once you know the price of anodizing...we'd just pay the difference then?
What I did for my stainless plates was mirror the plate so the laser would be cutting the bottom so that the "time saver" would be sanding the top of the plate and giving an even sanded finish to the top, not the bottom. Look at the bottom of the plate to see if it's sanded (I'm pretty sure it was). This mirroring is something you may want to think of before sending me the final dwg.
I also noticed that the legs where the stabilizers go is really thin.
Wow looks great. I'm not afraid of doing some TouchUp to the plate, that's perfectly fine, but if we are getting anodizing then it should be done before that.
I'm thinking maybe getting powder coating instead, but then tolerances will be even tighter
Something else I was thinking about, have you tried throwing caps on everything to make sure it all looks right? I know you said it was mathematically calculated to be exact...just thought it would be something good to double check before getting them all made.
The prototype plate is the same one for CM QFR or is there a slightly different plate for those?
I have two QFR to test it on if you want to sell me the prototype :p
is this still open?
I hope there is another run I completely missed it =(Lucky for you guys, I have not submitted the order yet because something came up that delays this GB for a few days. I'll let late orders until I submit the orders to be made.
Is there any chance you'll do another run of these at a later date?
Can you invoice me or do I need to send payment on my own?
Any ETA?
Are these gonna be rolled in with the phantom plate production?
Are these gonna be rolled in with the phantom plate production?
Quick update. The orders were submitted in early December, but the metal company is taking longer than expected because they had larger projects to do for other companies. With holiday seasons, they were pressed for time to get those done first, so these plates were cut after.
Ready to rock n' roll. I'll comment on these after I take care of a few things.What is the status? If you have them are they shipping soon or have you been playing with anodizing?
Also these work with Phantom unless we are building a Winkeyless 1.5 version right?
I have one of these plates with WFD that I'm selling for cost price should anyone have missed out on the GB. Just drop me a pm if you want it!
All domestic orders were sent out a week or two ago, and some international plates went out. I also shipped them in order by payment, and your order was one of the extra ones after these plates were already made.I know this is about an older post but, you are not a business and should not be shipping at a loss. Shipping prices are out of your control. I think you should contact those who are international and let them know what the price difference of shipping is and if they want to cancel their order then list their plates for sale in the classifieds to refund them. I know I would pick up at least another plate, maybe more for my friends as well.
Lastly, for the rest of the international orders, I'm trying to figure out best and cheapest way to ship it. Recently USPS shipping prices nearly doubled for international shipping, and it wasn't that cheap to begin with. The international ones I sent to far were sent at a loss, so I'm buying different packaging stuff to downsize the package and weight.
i'm late to the game but i'd pick up a plate if anyone canceled.
Have these been sent out yet for int orders?
If not i think id like a refund(40$) T.T was looking forward to throwing this in my qfr.
i'm late to the game but i'd pick up a plate if anyone canceled.
What are you talking about? You already got your plate lolHave these been sent out yet for int orders?
If not i think id like a refund(40$) T.T was looking forward to throwing this in my qfr.
Yeah they've all been sent out. I just don't personally PM every order after I ship it.
no plate for me i bought plate stabs from you last week for another project :pi'm late to the game but i'd pick up a plate if anyone canceled.
What are you talking about? You already got your plate lol
I don't think this was brought up before, but for those who want to use Costar stabilizers..
Black stabilizer clips fit perfectly in the plate's skinny parts of the holes. However, I had an extremely tough time fitting the white stabilizer inserts into the clips, and even when I did, keypresses didn't work, because the insert didn't fit through the clip on the travel back up.
This is why I've avoided using Costar stabilizers with these plates for so long. But I've just been unsatisfied with how the Cherry stabilizers felt with the spacebar, so I figured out a solution today. With the black clips already mounted to the plate, I took a pair of pliers and pulled the vertical sides of the clip (moreso the back) outwards, until I got the white inserts to sit inside the clip without touching those vertical sides.
Loving it now - Costar for the spacebar and Cherry for everything else.
cgbuen, thanks for bringing that up. The cutouts for costar slots are in the correct positions, but the problem is the plate thickness. I've asked around a lot for exactly 0.060" that Cherry specified for the plate thickness, however US system use our own gauge system for thickness, so 16guage is exactly 0.0625". Even that small amount of extra thickness cause the costar stabilizers to not properly clip into the slots correctly. That's why that vertical part you're referring to is slightly bent forward.So this would have to be done before soldering the PCB on?
I guess you can force it straight like you did, but what I did to half the plates I sent out from this GB, was to file down the top part of the underside of the plate so the stabilizers can clip on perfectly. I used a dremel to do this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/plates/th_IMG_2645.jpg) (http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/WhiteFireDragon/media/keyboard/plates/IMG_2645.jpg.html)
Anybody happen to be selling one of these?
i dont mean to necro a 2 month old thread but i ran into issues with costar stabs and this plate. I tried bending them back as far they would go but the keys are still really sticky. everything is soldered already so i cant realistically go to plate mounted cherry stabs and i saw wfd dremeled out the bottom of the plates a little to get them to fit but again that would require me to desolder everything. i found this on the deskthority wiki for phantom plates. do you think this would work?
If your Costar stabilizers feel a little sticky, here is what you can do: - they are seated correctly
1. In the first Costar star stabilizer picture on the right (scroll down a bit to see) the red areas need to be fully seated onto the plate. alaricljs's suggestion: Use a micro straight blade screw driver and gently press the black plastic piece toward the plate edge so that it engages properly. You may or may not hear a click as it seats itself. The tolerance is very tight.
2. Costar Stabilizer Clip - the stabs are as wide as they will go. they white inserts will fit in between but are very sticky/fussy
Also, the stabilizer clips are made of plastic, so the width can vary. You can see the difference between these two in the picture on the right (scroll down a bit).
3. Costar Stabilizer Clip Width Difference - this is what im about to try. what does this exactly accomplish? i just want to make sure this is relavant before i start hacking up my stabs anymore than what they already are.
Besides making sure the clips are seated perfectly, you can also gently bend the clip with your figures to make the gap wider. After this was done to a few Costar stabilizer clips, the wide, stabilized keys should not stick any more.
If, and only if, the two techniques don't fix your sticky Costar stabilizers, the last resort is to file down slightly the areas marked as red in the first Costar stabilizer clip picture. Use a thin filer that fits in there and file just a little. after filing both sides down a little bit, it should fit very well on to the plate.Show Image(http://deskthority.net/w/images/thumb/5/51/Costar%2BStabilizer%2Bfile.jpg/631px-Costar%2BStabilizer%2Bfile.jpg)
EDIT: i went with #3 but with a razor blade. carved out the stab a little bit on the back side, slid in and all they stabilized keys are operating as intended ;)
Hang on, I'll sort this out in a bit. I have to take care of the GH60 stuff first. I'll respond to PMs about this within a day or two.
Hang on, I'll sort this out in a bit. I have to take care of the GH60 stuff first. I'll respond to PMs about this within a day or two.
I am interested in prepaying. Sorry didn't read the thread was there any mention of a price difference either way after changing metals?
Ok here is round 2. I do not have time to go through all the steps and logistics of a GB, so I'm paying for these first. Here is the preorder list so far, based on people that have posted or PM me. I will send out PMs soonish when I free up some time. Once I receive them, the remaining ones will just be sold at a mark up.
Tai92
Chase5delta
Dreamre
bazemk1979
dadgh
remmeh
do_Og@n
OneshotshifT
lightsout714
csimi
Photoelectric
Ok here is round 2. I do not have time to go through all the steps and logistics of a GB, so I'm paying for these first. Here is the preorder list so far, based on people that have posted or PM me. I will send out PMs soonish when I free up some time. Once I receive them, the remaining ones will just be sold at a mark up.
Tai92
Chase5delta
Dreamre
bazemk1979
dadgh
remmeh
do_Og@n
OneshotshifT
lightsout714
csimi
Photoelectric
This is for aluminum or steel? I already have aluminum. If steel, I may be interested.
This is for aluminum or steel? I already have aluminum. If steel, I may be interested.
Steel. Other changes on this revision were posted on the previous page.
Left and right edges will widen ~0.01", top slit for costar stabs increased by 0.02" (to account for plate thickness (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36907.msg824224#msg824224)), and spacebar wire slit added.
Is it the plates or the shipping that will be more expensive? I was under the impression that steel was cheaper since the Phantom plates were I think $20 a piece.
WFD form filled waiting on invoice from you.
I've paid for this small batch already, so I only have a set amount. I don't have time to do a full GB for these. I've just sent out PMs to everyone that wanted one so far. Probably won't be accepting anymore "preorders" since I want to reserve some to sell later.
I'm still around, but been pretty busy with moving to my new place. I've already sent out PMs to the prior list of preorders. Plates will finish soon and I'll go pick them when I can free up some time. Not sure what other updates I need to give.
I'm still around, but been pretty busy with moving to my new place. I've already sent out PMs to the prior list of preorders. Plates will finish soon and I'll go pick them when I can free up some time. Not sure what other updates I need to give.
lol sensing someone is getting pissed hahaha, and cant blame him :D
Just a quick update, I picked up the plates a few days ago, I'll package most tonight and have it shipped tomorrow. I'm not processing leftovers right now. That will have to come later when I have more time.
Just a quick update, I picked up the plates a few days ago, I'll package most tonight and have it shipped tomorrow. I'm not processing leftovers right now. That will have to come later when I have more time.lol sensing someone is getting pissed hahaha, and cant blame him :D
Huh? Why would I be mad?
I'm not processing leftovers right now. That will have to come later when I have more time.
Do you have a list of people interested or will I have to spam f5 in this thread until you offer them? ;)
I'll keep you in mind after I take of these first shipments.
Sometimes I actually think postal services try and **** up packages..
To straighten it you'll need to bend it the opposite way.. you can't just flatten it as it'll never be fully flat that way.
use that granite counter top to straighten it out. just bend it until it looks good. every plate i've bought has come like that unfortunately.
Just do it nice and slowly, don't rush it. Bend it the opposite way slightly, see how it looks, and repeat until it looks flat. Don't go overboard and bend it loads at once.Sometimes I actually think postal services try and **** up packages..
To straighten it you'll need to bend it the opposite way.. you can't just flatten it as it'll never be fully flat that way.
Yeah... I assumed just bending it would be the obvious way to do it but now I'm scared that while I'm bending it, it's going to give way I'm going to create like this huge fold into it....... this is pretty retarded.
Thanks for the tips though....
l0l
next time just buy more plates so they act as reinforcements huehuehue jk
bending it back should be ok.
Just do it nice and slowly, don't rush it. Bend it the opposite way slightly, see how it looks, and repeat until it looks flat. Don't go overboard and bend it loads at once.
Well, if you're too worried about damaging it further and if you have a local metal or machine shop, perhaps they can run it through their metal roller thingy and straighten it out for hopefully a small fee?
I've never done this, just an idea
Just do it nice and slowly, don't rush it. Bend it the opposite way slightly, see how it looks, and repeat until it looks flat. Don't go overboard and bend it loads at once.
Sometimes I actually think postal services try and **** up packages..
To straighten it you'll need to bend it the opposite way.. you can't just flatten it as it'll never be fully flat that way.
Yeah... I assumed just bending it would be the obvious way to do it but now I'm scared that while I'm bending it, it's going to give way I'm going to create like this huge fold into it....... this is pretty retarded.
Thanks for the tips though....
My Poker plates arrived like that (almost..), I think some of the curvature is due to the raw stock. I used a 2x4, bent them flat gradually, trying to move across the area being bent, to avoid creasing them. Worked fine, got them both nice and flat.
VesperSAINT, if you can't fix it, send that one back and I'll send you one of the leftovers I have. For the time being, TRY THIS (at 46m 58s) (http://youtu.be/gdLAdci6p-w?t=46m58s). If you can't do it, then I'll try to salvage it.
I know Beast's source for plates come bent because they way they are processed, but all mine are shipped perfectly flat and ready to be installed. I paid the manufacturer extra for the brushed finish, and for them to NOT bend it. A bit sad to see the post office handling it like this.
mine just arrived.They usually come like this. however its usually very easy to straighten it
even with the sticker...
it is bent. .... so sad...
hopefully I can straighten it out decently.
mine just arrived. it is bent. .... so sad...
mine just arrived. it is bent. .... so sad...
Dammit >:D . I'll have to start insuring these packages. That'll be cheaper than buying tons of reinforcements. These plates are expensive and I can't afford many replacements. I'll shoot you a PM in a bit.
Just reporting that I got the plate straightened out fairly flat. Just spent the entire day modding my QFR. Happy to say that the mod was successful! Only thing that bothers me is the blemishes the plates arrived with but I assume these happened during manufacturing :\ Right, WFD?
Now I have 2 custom/modded keyboards! One aluminum and the other stainless steel! Thanks WFD.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mASJZB5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3duSZhw.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GTuOTaW.jpg)
The blemishes :( At least I won't see them with keycaps on :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/1D7E3S7.jpg)
Just reporting that I got the plate straightened out fairly flat. Just spent the entire day modding my QFR. Happy to say that the mod was successful! Only thing that bothers me is the blemishes the plates arrived with but I assume these happened during manufacturing :\ Right, WFD?
Now I have 2 custom/modded keyboards! One aluminum and the other stainless steel! Thanks WFD.
(http://i.imgur.com/mASJZB5.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/mASJZB5.jpg)
mine did not have any marks but the aluminium plate from the first round was covered in blemished (i didn't mind it too much
mine did not have any marks but the aluminium plate from the first round was covered in blemished (i didn't mind it too much)
Show ImageShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/3duSZhw.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/3duSZhw.jpg)Show ImageJust reporting that I got the plate straightened out fairly flat. Just spent the entire day modding my QFR. Happy to say that the mod was successful! Only thing that bothers me is the blemishes the plates arrived with but I assume these happened during manufacturing :\ Right, WFD?
Now I have 2 custom/modded keyboards! One aluminum and the other stainless steel! Thanks WFD.
(http://i.imgur.com/mASJZB5.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/mASJZB5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/GTuOTaW.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/GTuOTaW.jpg)
The blemishes :( At least I won't see them with keycaps on :)
(http://i.imgur.com/1D7E3S7.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/1D7E3S7.jpg)
mine did not have any marks but the aluminium plate from the first round was covered in blemished (i didn't mind it too much
I might have to get another batch, because I don't have enough leftovers for everyone.
Maybe this time around, I'll have Beast cut it to save on costs. But Beast's local source will definitely come already bent, and finish is not as nice. So it'll come down to unbending it yourself and less nice surface finish, or pay a little more for smoother brushed finish and ready to install.
Out of curiosity, what do you guys use to open the switches once they are mounted onto the plate? In the absence of the Beast's tool? Bent staples? Photos or a video would be great.
Thank you.
I might have to get another batch, because I don't have enough leftovers for everyone.
Maybe this time around, I'll have Beast cut it to save on costs. But Beast's local source will definitely come already bent, and finish is not as nice. So it'll come down to unbending it yourself and less nice surface finish, or pay a little more for smoother brushed finish and ready to install.
whatever is easier for you man. Beast plates are pretty good quality and bend isn't really that bad. in the end, its a plate. who's going to be looking at it?
Out of curiosity, what do you guys use to open the switches once they are mounted onto the plate? In the absence of the Beast's tool? Bent staples? Photos or a video would be great.
I have a spare TKL plate availible. I ordered a plate from WFD then later I got a Phantom pcb with a plate. PM me if interested sell for what I paid. M.J.
On a semi-unrelated note, what do you think is a good way to fancy up stock Filco plates? I have 2 now, without use. Wondering if sanding and using engine enamel (+baking) would result in sturdy finish.
Still waiting my order :S (2 ISO plates). Are there still pending shipments? I hope so, otherwise something went wrong with my order.
I'm moving soon to a new address and I'll like to know when I can expect the package to arrive and so leave instructions about what to do with it.
Still waiting my order :S (2 ISO plates). Are there still pending shipments? I hope so, otherwise something went wrong with my order.
I'm moving soon to a new address and I'll like to know when I can expect the package to arrive and so leave instructions about what to do with it.
Still waiting my order :S (2 ISO plates). Are there still pending shipments? I hope so, otherwise something went wrong with my order.
I'm moving soon to a new address and I'll like to know when I can expect the package to arrive and so leave instructions about what to do with it.
If I got mine on July 15, in the U.S., then it's entirely possible that yours are still traveling, given that you are in Spain.
Still waiting my order :S (2 ISO plates). Are there still pending shipments? I hope so, otherwise something went wrong with my order.
I'm moving soon to a new address and I'll like to know when I can expect the package to arrive and so leave instructions about what to do with it.
If I got mine on July 15, in the U.S., then it's entirely possible that yours are still traveling, given that you are in Spain.
Thanks for your reply. Knowing that they are still dispatching plates around USA let me know it's just a matter of time :)
Still waiting my order :S (2 ISO plates). Are there still pending shipments? I hope so, otherwise something went wrong with my order.
I'm moving soon to a new address and I'll like to know when I can expect the package to arrive and so leave instructions about what to do with it.
If I got mine on July 15, in the U.S., then it's entirely possible that yours are still traveling, given that you are in Spain.
Thanks for your reply. Knowing that they are still dispatching plates around USA let me know it's just a matter of time :)
maxmalkav, wrong GB. Although this plate is compatible with phantom PCB, this GB is unrelated to logistics of the Phantom GB.
For your specific situation of the Phantom GB, bavman has your stuff and it's out of my control. If I had known he was going to go AFK for this long (I sure hope he is ok), I would have personally shipped it myself. I told him I'd be willing to help him ship out stuff he was suppose to take care of, but bavman insisted on shipping your stuff since it was his mistake to ship out your PCB separately.
I received my plate with no bend at all, thanks to WFD ;D and the postman :p
One question though, can I power coat the plate? ;D
I received my plate with no bend at all, thanks to WFD ;D and the postman :p
One question though, can I power coat the plate? ;D
You can powder coat the plate as I've had it done to Beast's poker plate. I was going to have WFD's plate powder coated but I thought about it and felt it would be a waste especially since WFD had it brush finished. It looks great as it is :)
I personally love the brushed steel look and would hate to cover it up with anything short of anodizing. And I love how the steel glimmers through with dark keycaps over it. The stock black Filco plate, however, is a different story :)
I received my plate with no bend at all, thanks to WFD ;D and the postman :p
One question though, can I power coat the plate? ;D
You can powder coat the plate as I've had it done to Beast's poker plate. I was going to have WFD's plate powder coated but I thought about it and felt it would be a waste especially since WFD had it brush finished. It looks great as it is :)
I've had some motorcycle parts powder-coated, and I recall that the coating is fairly thick. Did you mask off the key switch openings, or is there enough clearance to fit the keys even after the coating is applied?
Could be the brand of coating the shop applied, too. I was having wheels and a swing-arm coated, they may have laid it on pretty thick.
It was a from some place in South San Francisco that my friend had it done because they used the same shop for parts they needed for their house renovation (small trinkets and such). Since I got a Beast plate primarily for my friend, he was the one who dealt with the shop. I just saw the end result. He did mention filing down some areas that he believe could have problems whered he'd put switches but other than a few tight fits where the stabilizers were, it went well.
I think powder coating would look nice, but is a bit overkill for a plate. I usually give them a sanding with 80-grit sandpaper and about 3 light coats of regular Krylon in whatever color I want (usually satin black) and call it good. :)
Looks great, Dreamre. So glad these international ones aren't getting bent. So far, I think only 2 plates from the whole batch got bent.
Is that a detachable cable mod? Where did you get that end sticking out?It was a from some place in South San Francisco that my friend had it done because they used the same shop for parts they needed for their house renovation (small trinkets and such). Since I got a Beast plate primarily for my friend, he was the one who dealt with the shop. I just saw the end result. He did mention filing down some areas that he believe could have problems whered he'd put switches but other than a few tight fits where the stabilizers were, it went well.
How much for the powder coating? I only asked about it once from a local shop, and added on too much cost to the plate.
It was a from some place in South San Francisco that my friend had it done because they used the same shop for parts they needed for their house renovation (small trinkets and such). Since I got a Beast plate primarily for my friend, he was the one who dealt with the shop. I just saw the end result. He did mention filing down some areas that he believe could have problems whered he'd put switches but other than a few tight fits where the stabilizers were, it went well.
How much for the powder coating? I only asked about it once from a local shop, and added on too much cost to the plate.
Ok, I'm going to give this a try, for science! Sanded down one of my unused Filco plates, and now trying to decide what color to go with... probably Red.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/h2Rwofm.jpg)
These give an anodizing effect, but as to how sturdy on bare metal... that it to be tested. I may need to get their Adhesion Promoter to go underneath, as directed.
The short answer is that those paints work. I've used the Adhesion Promoter as specified, and it's only been a few hours, but the finish is sturdy enough to sand. And it takes 7 days to fully dry (from the bottle description).
It doesn't come out exactly nicely anodized, as it needs to be polished a whole lot after spraying (not by sanding but by rubbing with cutting / rubbing compounds to get rid of dark dullness). Here is the result in bad kitchen lighting, and I expect it to get better. It won't be uniform--looks a bit aged, with darker outlines by the holes. But I kind of like the effect.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tDCr9R2.jpg)
(looks more anodized in person). Anyway, not a walk in the park as far as the process goes but potentially worth it if anyone is interested. Some of the darkness is remnants of black powder coating that I couldn't quite get out (some of it was deep into rough parts of the steel, and in some light it was all sanded off, but in other, there were shadows left).
If only I had some use for it... I'm still trying to figure out a future keyboard to use vintage Blacks on (that I have a bag of). Not another Filco though! But I was told stock Filco plates fit Phantom PCBs. This was just a curiosity-inspired experiment.
Obviously, we need to have battles of some sort. My suggestion is arena style. Two men enter, one man walks out. And he gets his plate.
Moose thinks that
GH isn't ready for more battlin'
Little does he know that
He's due for a paddlin'
My flows flow quicker than
a board with lubed Blacks
no stickerin'
Have everyone received their plate? I am still waiting on mind for over 2 months now, I am losing so many things in the mail.
Have everyone received their plate? I am still waiting on mind for over 2 months now, I am losing so many things in the mail.
I received mine within a couple days after they were shipped. You may have to talk to your post office about these problems, as I believe it shouldn't take this long, even for international shipments... :(
What happened to WFD? It has already been almost 2-3 month, and I still haven't got my plate, he never responded to PM too.
Is there anywhere else where we can get a similar plate? I'm looking for a plate for my QFR but this is the only thread that pops up... Anyone selling a spare? :)You can start a thread in the classified section about buying plate, but you need to have 60 post first.
I'm thinking of spray painting mine.
I'll look for the Dupli-color metal cast but if I cant find it I'll probably just use Krylon.
I dont think it will make the plate too think or anything.
Or I could just leave it be.
Anyone else have any input? Comments? Advice?
If I do paint it though,
Question is what to go with the Red LEDs on my Shine?
Red paint or Black?
I missed this group by.
I want to mod my QFR but I don't want to desolder it multiple times.
If there is a 2nd round I'd get at least 3 ANSI 125 plates...