I made a video for you guys!
you crazy son
What the hell is going on around here...!? I'd probably still buy one just for the heck of it. Have them make one for me!
you better be drunk son to make such a thing
I've been wanting something like this for a LONG time. I know I will get tea bagged but I'm not excited by GH60, K-Mac, Phantom but I am excited by this!
I will wield a soldering iron for this!
So can you elaborate on what the keys are, I mean like what is what. I am confused but intrigued.
It looks like it's all alpha keys, with mods at the bottom, probably a key for space, and other stuff. What kind of layers are we looking at?
How are you going to do the spacebar? Getting a custom convexed cap is pretty expensive, but if you use modifier keys as the spacebar, they're concaved so it'll feel pretty sharp for your thumb.
/me thinks Kmiller is crazy... :P Good luck with it!
How are you going to do the spacebar? Getting a custom convexed cap is pretty expensive, but if you use modifier keys as the spacebar, they're concaved so it'll feel pretty sharp for your thumb.
how about a 1x1 or 1x1.25 that is mounted on a track and can be slid back and forth and on an angle for individual tastes?
With such a small layout, I don't think having more than one alt, ctrl, or super would be necessary. Maybe we should make those 1.25x on the left, have a 1.5x for the space, and have a couple 1x on the right for things that a little more common, like ? and @.
Would you be open to doing an Alps version? It will then be super easy to use older keys / order from SP.
What exactly can I do to help in this project? Anything?
I'd have no problem providing a plate if you provide a dwg for my laser guy
happy new years to all (bourbon is good son ^____________^ )
You white boy crazy
Maybe we should just have two keys: one Fn and one key with 105 layers!
I would think it'll have a programmable pcb, too.^
Left thumb only for meYou sir must be left handed then :O
you fail
Left thumb only for meYou sir must be left handed then :O
you fail
this really isn't an issue since it should be programmable anyways. kmiller, have you seen 7bits 40% board?
this really isn't an issue since it should be programmable anyways. kmiller, have you seen 7bits 40% board?
I saw it yesterday, after people were spamming me in IRC saying I stole his design :/
Left thumb only for meYou sir must be left handed then :O
you fail
Left thumb only for meYou sir must be left handed then :O
you fail
1. right handed
2. use left thumb
3. left hand is more stationary, causing it to be more rationally defensible to use the left thumb
4. world class typing champion
i think that about settles it
So I don't see why you would need two Fn keys. What we need is something like Fn+Backspace to be Numlock which will allow you to type on the numpad layer, and then Fn+Backspace to turn it off. Then you only need one Fn key.
I'd have no problem providing a plate if you provide a dwg for my laser guy
happy new years to all (bourbon is good son ^____________^ )
Yew waz a bit cray cray. I didn't say you stole it though, that was Flynn!this really isn't an issue since it should be programmable anyways. kmiller, have you seen 7bits 40% board?
I saw it yesterday, after people were spamming me in IRC saying I stole his design :/
How are you going to do the spacebar? Getting a custom convexed cap is pretty expensive, but if you use modifier keys as the spacebar, they're concaved so it'll feel pretty sharp for your thumb.
lookit the stickynote i posted. My right thumb sits PERFECTLY on one of the 1.25 mods, the rest are there for show.
As for sharpness, I'm just using a 1.25 cherry mod and it's pretty alright for my fake typing I've done on it, I'll cover that hurdle when the time comes :D
Pefect fit for YOUR thumb. But I know everyone has different size hands. For me, my thumb is positioned right below the middle of the N key, and for some that have larger or wider hands, their thumbs might be just to the left of the N key on the spacebar. The thing with concaved keys is that the finger must be exactly centered, otherwise it'll sit on the higher corners.
I guess this all won't matter if this is only tailored to your fit and not the whole GH.
So can you elaborate on what the keys are, I mean like what is what. I am confused but intrigued.
yes, here's the layout when I designed it at work today
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i54v6g2m9wimssv/2012-12-31%2013.37.39.jpgIt looks like it's all alpha keys, with mods at the bottom, probably a key for space, and other stuff. What kind of layers are we looking at?
yep, pure alpha keys with mods at the bottom, the way I'm envisioning it, I'll have three layers overall, one of them focusing numbers, one focusing symbols.
Here is a pretty picture for you to work with. PM me with adjustments and the layers and I'll mock them up for you as well.
- Ron | samwisekoi
The one thing that I would suggest is having 10 keys on the middle row. Normally the left hand rests on ASDF and then goes right to hit G and the right hand rests on JKL; and moves left to hit H. Right now one of your index fingers only presses one key on the homerow, which really affects basic typing.
Additionally, while on Qwerty you can somewhat afford to lose ; on the homerow as you`ve done, on colemak and dvorak you absolutely need all 10 keys on the homerow. I`d love a tiny keyboard like this, but it would have to be able to support 10 keys on the homerow.
Here`s what I came up with in about 10 minutes in paint. It`s in colemak but it`s not hard to imagine it in qwerty. It's 40 keys, (the one between B and K still blank, not sure what to put there). I made it symmetric stagger (you'd be a fool not to love it for typing!) but it would be easy to change to normal if you really wanted. Backspace could be made larger if desired. Shift and Space are the two most needed large keys in terms of common use. Enter is somewhat related to spacebar (making whitespace) so it goes near to it.
Important to note is that by using number row numbers instead of numpad numbers, you can hold Fn1 + shift to get symbols without needing another function layer just for them. The F1-F12 keys are more human legible if they match up with the embedded numpad.
The arrow keys are on the equivalent of WASD shifted one column over (ESDF). This makes more sense because this is the homerow position, and then the extra column on the left of it (which wouldn't exist if we were on WASD) lets us reach more. Home and End are placed sensibly (Home is like "super left" so goes right above it, same idea for End). Page up and down are on the two buttons that the index finger can reach comfortably.
Media keys make sense as well, eg Volume Up on Up and Next on Right, etc. In general it's very intuitive so even if you didn't have custom keycaps with label it should be easy to understand.
These function layers that you see here are what I'm actually using on my Filco w/ HID liberation device right now essentially. I'll post a Qwerty equivalent when I get back home since I'm sure many people are deterred by the colemak legends.
I'm not understanding this part, there are 11 keys on the middle row? I also don't understand what you mean, one of my index fingers presses one key, I don't see how each one isn't hitting 6 keys each.
This is cool, the drawing I chopped out to save space, even though it is cool, I am obviously biased to the more "traditional" layout of the 33 alpha keys. Having said that, I see no reason it would be impossible to make multiple PCB layouts and if I do end up producing these in any way, shape, or form have a vote on which one would be best/more preferred. Another layout that has been mentioned is a pure 1x1 matrix, which wouldn't be too terribly difficult to make.
The arrow keys are on the equivalent of WASD shifted one column over (ESDF). This makes more sense because this is the homerow position, and then the extra column on the left of it (which wouldn't exist if we were on WASD) lets us reach more. Home and End are placed sensibly (Home is like "super left" so goes right above it, same idea for End). Page up and down are on the two buttons that the index finger can reach comfortably.
More, confusing, layout speek :s
For the symmetrical one:
Should be a 1/2 space between G/H
QA stagger is 1/4
AZ stagger is also 1/4
But you can't put them both on the same PCB because then there'd be extra space hanging out on one side, no? (left on mine, right on yours)
The 1.25 middle two? There's only room for 1x in my sketch.
The 1.25 middle two? There's only room for 1x in my sketch.
yeah, but I threw your sketch out the window for simplicity :)
If this does actually get made, I'd totally suggest just a metal plate for the bottom wall of a "case" and not have side walls at all to keep the small/minimalist look. Kind of like on the Corsair K60
It would also be super simple. You'd just need to tap some threaded holes in the metal plate, which is something I could get done.
This board is turning into pure insanity. I love it.Avatar relevant.
yeah, but I threw your sketch out the window for simplicity :)I LOL'd :D
i think this might be a good use for those modular housings i posted over the break
sure, the housings are snap fit and are very tight once they are fit together but of course with nothing behind them there is no return pressure. here is a link to the info about them so i dont derail Kirk's thread.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38617.0
So I don't know if this is 40%, but is has no stinkin' stabilzers:
Keyboard for 7" Tablets
This keyboard is designed to have the same footprint as a 7" tablet (e.g. Nexus 7, Kindle Fire, Nook Color) and retain all of the standard keys to allow for non-chiclet typing. Please note that tablets don't have/need Control, Windows or Alt keys, so they are missing. However, there are arrow keys and a whole bunch of re-labelable keycaps, so if you need other keys, you can have them.
Just a thought.
- Ron | samwisekoi
I'd take one of those... interesting idea Ron!So I don't know if this is 40%, but is has no stinkin' stabilzers:
Keyboard for 7" Tablets
This keyboard is designed to have the same footprint as a 7" tablet (e.g. Nexus 7, Kindle Fire, Nook Color) and retain all of the standard keys to allow for non-chiclet typing. Please note that tablets don't have/need Control, Windows or Alt keys, so they are missing. However, there are arrow keys and a whole bunch of re-labelable keycaps, so if you need other keys, you can have them.
Just a thought.
- Ron | samwisekoi
That's more like 60%, go post that crap in the GH60 Thread :-*
No seriously, It's interesting, and I like seeing people propose new crazy layouts in this thread. If you really like that layout, PM me and lets make something happen, I'll gladly help you out.
When would this be available?
I think a 40% board is a bit much for me. I'm still stuck on 104 keyboards lol. But you're doing awesome work; this project looks really cool. I'm sure you're doing more than just this and the Topre keychains so props to you ^_^.Just between you and me, I think he's crazy. Oh hi Kmiller8, didn't seen you there!
kaymillerateSomebody knows their Phonics!
I think a 40% board is a bit much for me. I'm still stuck on 104 keyboards lol. But you're doing awesome work; this project looks really cool. I'm sure you're doing more than just this and the Topre keychains so props to you ^_^.Just between you and me, I think he's crazy. Oh hi Kmiller8, didn't seen you there!
Honestly, very nice looking. The more I look, the more I think it would be cool to have!
Now do mine :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d9Nbq.png)
Now do mine :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/d9Nbq.png)
le sighs. I'll see what I can do
But as I explained to TheProfosist, I refuse to touch the left side, since it is already cluttered with a controller :x
What I will do is try to squeeze some 1x mods down there :))
Make it five deep so you get the numbers.
On the right hand side add a number pad.
What are you guys using to create these layouts because I can mock up what I'm describing.
Ha! I love it!
When would this be available?
If the PCB doesn't look super horrible (I'll try to run it by as many people as possible to make sure everything looks good) I'll try to get a small run ~10-15 PCB's made HOPEFULLY sometime early February, so just be sure you hang around this thread, to keep up to date :)
I was going to protest and say that spacebar looks funky and that it's probably not going to work well, but then I looked down at my laptop keyboard and realized that the spacebar on that is bigger than the spacebar on my laptop...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QgAM2.png)
Who's ordering the doubleshots!
Ha! I love it!
so you're ok with the 1, 1, 6.25, 1, 1, 1? (That's what I added for you)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/QgAM2.png)
Who's ordering the doubleshots!
You better fix those keys on the left side, that layout is not and will not be supported by this :x
OneProduct, you get your layout, now shoo. You can add a 1x in the extreme upper right as a pseudo 'Esc' key
updated prof layout layers should come soonShow Image(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v519/TheProfosist/GeekHack/GH-sub-mine/kmiller40-PROF125_zps49cbd0cb.png)
Prof's new layout looks almost the same as mine, except for the bottom row.
Kirk, I hate to change things on you now, but I didn't like the bottom row the way I had it before. Can you change it to reflect this?
This board caught my attention - I've been blowing over this thread for awhile, now. But I'm impressed. I like the looks of Prof's layout - with the potential for a nice 2nd layer arrow cluster.you could have arrows in the lower right if you dont need rshift or relocated it
Much rather have the shift, punctuation, etc... on the primary layer with an arrow cluster on a function layer.well punctuation isnt happening unless you sacrifice letters
But who knows.
I think typing on this keyboard would be real fun, but I have a question. what case can we use for this?
I think typing on this keyboard would be real fun, but I have a question. what case can we use for this?
For everyone else: Y U NO EMBRACE SYMMETRICAL LAYOUT? IT R GUD 4 UR HANDZI believe in you!! The key positions look pretty good, it's the one I like the best so far, but I would have an even cooler idea. :cool:
sort of like a mobile ErgoDox. :D
next project, it'll be a Ergo8 :PI'm in! ;D
Trackpoint idea:IDK, though I know it's not entirely possibly, I would much prefer something like the trackpoint-equipped laptops have (between the G, H, and B keys), though I can understand not having that due to keycaps. I'm not sure how I would like a symmetrical keyboard, but I MIGHT try it.
People could just DIY it, kmiller talked about making it safe to drill (without cutting traces) in irc during his livestream.
Hold your hands out, palms down in front of your body. Twist both of your hands to the left at your wrist. Which hand is more comfortable?
Put your hands on your keyboard with each finger resting across the keys that it is responsible for:
QAZ for the left pinky, WSX for the left ring finger, etc.
Is your left or right hand more comfortable when you do this?
It makes far more sense for both hands to twist inwards, not outwards! That's just how the body is. Think about how much sense it makes and give it a shot. If you're a human being with human hands and wrists you should enjoy it!
Would you wear two right shoes!? :D
You can drill a hole there if you want to add a trackpoint.Oh boy yes... and if someone could actually hack it to be wireless, this would be the best traveling keyboard ever! :D
You can drill a hole there if you want to add a trackpoint.seriously? If so just make the hole standard :p
Track point in the 40%? This is sounding better all the time! Guess I'll have to contemplate ways to make it wireless now. Powered Bluetooth dongle?
Haha, I just posted it showing that it should be possible to implement a BT module on this board.
Ok I need to order like 4 of the prototype boards. :D
Got that trackpoint headed to me now. Thanks for the link, KM.
haha, I'm not even sure if it'll work, YOU SHOULD HAVE WAITED FOR ME TO TEAR IT APART FIRST.
Track point in the 40%? This is sounding better all the time! Guess I'll have to contemplate ways to make it wireless now. Powered Bluetooth dongle?
*cough* http://captainunlikely.blogspot.com/2012/01/bluetooth-teensyduino-and-linux.html *cough*
if someone really wants to try it :D Like I was explaining in IRC, I plan on making as many of the unused pins on the left side of the board usable with through-holes so that anyone can add their own boards and mods to this thing :D
haha, I'm not even sure if it'll work, YOU SHOULD HAVE WAITED FOR ME TO TEAR IT APART FIRST.
Like I can wait for anything. ;D
You just tell me where to solder that ish and I will puts it on the board.
Maybe someone has some trackpoint GHB Cherry keycaps they will sell us.
Wow you guys work fast. Jd, you really already ordered prototypes? How much was 4?
Does anybody have suggestions about where to get 1.25 and 1.75 keycaps for row 2 and 3?either get them custom made or be like me and not care too much about profile cause yo uwant the nlayers on the caps and get them from wasd
If this is a real problem a '13-key wide' version with standard-width tab, caps-lock, shift and enter keys may still be an option...
Does anybody have suggestions about where to get 1.25 and 1.75 keycaps for row 2 and 3?
Does anybody have suggestions about where to get 1.25 and 1.75 keycaps for row 2 and 3?
If this is a real problem a '13-key wide' version with standard-width tab, caps-lock, shift and enter keys may still be an option...
think wasd might be wiling to etch those? you should totally look at getting PBT!!!Does anybody have suggestions about where to get 1.25 and 1.75 keycaps for row 2 and 3?
If this is a real problem a '13-key wide' version with standard-width tab, caps-lock, shift and enter keys may still be an option...
That is a serious concern, hmm not sure how I let that slide, I was cross-checking the keys as I went, but I overlooked that one...
It looks as if SP makes a 1.25 row 3
http://keycapsdirect.com/pdfs/DCSFamily.pdf
but they don't have any blanks in stock.
http://keycapsdirect.com/inventorypdfs/DCSPBTInventory.pdf
http://keycapsdirect.com/inventorypdfs/DCSABSInventory.pdf
I guess we'll have to do a GB for caps :)
I'll contact SP about pricing for a hundred blanks or so and report back with my findings.
think wasd might be wiling to etch those? you should totally look at getting PBT!!!
i dont think the profile matters so muchthink wasd might be wiling to etch those? you should totally look at getting PBT!!!
IDK, it's an odd profile for sure, I just popped melissa an email about 100 PBT blanks in the cheapest color they have. NOW WE WAIT.
There's a keepout thingy... if I remember/figure it out before you I'll post.
Could you describe your issues with the larger safe zone kmiller8? We can try to make one that is less objectionable.
You haven't specified firmware yet, have you looked at the TMK firmware? It has tons of features including the ability to forward data from a ps/2 mouse which I think some thinkpad sticks are.
kmiller8, do you have a picture of the different possible bottom rows together? It's hard to make out possible layouts from the PCB. Thanks
PCB suggestion.
To prevent te extra border on top, would it be an idea to make the usb connector break out a little (like many keyboard PCB designs) and try to bring the 'teensy connector' closer to the center. The column connections may also be drawn from the connections at the bottom row..?? Otherwise you would have a gap between the top keys and possible keyboard case....
(btw, why not bring the 'teensy connector' to the other side of the board.. That may prevent having to draw many long datalines)
Above suggestions doesnt get rid of the border/padding completely if I'm correct. Only the right side has no border at the moment and keys would be next to the case, other sides will have a gap.
Another (crazy) idea: since you're moving into the direction of a Teensy-breakout controller anyway; the following idea would make use of the usb connector on the Teensy and could get rid of all borders on the PCB as the controller and usb connector on the PCB is not needed. I know you prefer an on-PCB controller, but this would have advantages...
Ok, I'll stop (stahp) worrying about PCB size, but do look at the following image where the PCB of the GH60 (or any other board) is layered ontop of the 'miller40' (in approximated scale). With the GH60 (and Pure, Poker etc) the pcb is about the same size as the reach of the keycaps. With your current board the pcb would be 5 mm higher and 3 mm more to the left as the key caps.
Ok, I'll stop (stahp) worrying about PCB size, but do look at the following image where the PCB of the GH60 (or any other board) is layered ontop of the 'miller40' (in approximated scale). With the GH60 (and Pure, Poker etc) the pcb is about the same size as the reach of the keycaps. With your current board the pcb would be 5 mm higher and 3 mm more to the left as the key caps.
Alright, and do you see how the GH60 was able to make that smaller? They didn't have to squeeze a controller on the side of the PCB. They only support one or two layouts that is a different bottom row (also the split-backspace now I guess). What I'm trying to say is, this thing I've designed doesn't look pretty, but holy **** does it have a whole new level of layout-customization that eclipses even the phantom. I'm pretty sure 3mm won't bother the people who get one of these :))
I just sent out your GH60 prototype. When you receive it, you'll realize it supports many more layouts than what you just mentioned.
Make it micro USB. I might forget that I posted this and post it again on page 15 :pI'm not entirely sure why people want Micro-USB. I generally prefer Mini-USB or (if the size of the board permits it) Full-size USB B. I feel Micro-USB is too thin and insecure.
It is because micro USB is built for 1000s of plug ins and disconnects and mini-usb is not. I've not really checked it much, but I think micro might even have a tighter connection when it is plugged in. It would also be nice to use the same cables for our phones as keyboards, then we carry less crap with us when we go places.Make it micro USB. I might forget that I posted this and post it again on page 15 :pI'm not entirely sure why people want Micro-USB. I generally prefer Mini-USB or (if the size of the board permits it) Full-size USB B. I feel Micro-USB is too thin and insecure.
Which is the one that is designed to not break the port but the cable?
I do think that Mini-USb > Micro-USB (Due to bending and breaking, especially for something that's meant to be portable that's not a phone), but I can understand that if, for some reason, the case size requires Micro. Micro's just fine for phones (and Raspberry Pis, not to mention keyboards meant to be stationary), but I wouldn't want it on a keyboard meant to be carried around, which I can only assume is the purpose behind this keyboard (unless he is A) tight for space (not likely, based on that desk in the video) or B) just wants a tiny keyboard for some reason).Which is the one that is designed to not break the port but the cable?
In my experience with things larger than phones, microUSB connectors stay attached in a fall and bend both the PCBA connector and the cable end. Again, in my experience, MiniUSB connectors simply come out and nothing breaks.
I cannot speak to dropping a connected Rosewill keyboard! I plan to avoid that scenario.
- Ron | samwisekoiShow Image(http://www.samwisekoi.com/pixelart/M.png)
So true. Micro is way more convenient. If anyone is afraid of. Falling o ut, yout can look at the g700 slot and dock. I think micro stays in better but has a higher chance to be bent. Most of my cables don't bend or break. (Micro). I have had one that broke and fall out. It was a three meter cable from Amazon. It was just poor quality.It is because micro USB is built for 1000s of plug ins and disconnects and mini-usb is not. I've not really checked it much, but I think micro might even have a tighter connection when it is plugged in. It would also be nice to use the same cables for our phones as keyboards, then we carry less crap with us when we go places.Make it micro USB. I might forget that I posted this and post it again on page 15 :pI'm not entirely sure why people want Micro-USB. I generally prefer Mini-USB or (if the size of the board permits it) Full-size USB B. I feel Micro-USB is too thin and insecure.
ive only bent cables doing stupid stuff with my phone but id rather have to buy a new cable than a new phone.So true. Micro is way more convenient. If anyone is afraid of. Falling o ut, yout can look at the g700 slot and dock. I think micro stays in better but has a higher chance to be bent. Most of my cables don't bend or break. (Micro). I have had one that broke and fall out. It was a three meter cable from Amazon. It was just poor quality.It is because micro USB is built for 1000s of plug ins and disconnects and mini-usb is not. I've not really checked it much, but I think micro might even have a tighter connection when it is plugged in. It would also be nice to use the same cables for our phones as keyboards, then we carry less crap with us when we go places.Make it micro USB. I might forget that I posted this and post it again on page 15 :pI'm not entirely sure why people want Micro-USB. I generally prefer Mini-USB or (if the size of the board permits it) Full-size USB B. I feel Micro-USB is too thin and insecure.
I've only bent cables having other people do stupid stuff with my tablets. And I can totally see someone grabbing a keyboard or knocking one off a desk and saying "oops!"ive only bent cables doing stupid stuff with my phone but id rather have to buy a new cable than a new phone.So true. Micro is way more convenient. If anyone is afraid of. Falling o ut, yout can look at the g700 slot and dock. I think micro stays in better but has a higher chance to be bent. Most of my cables don't bend or break. (Micro). I have had one that broke and fall out. It was a three meter cable from Amazon. It was just poor quality.It is because micro USB is built for 1000s of plug ins and disconnects and mini-usb is not. I've not really checked it much, but I think micro might even have a tighter connection when it is plugged in. It would also be nice to use the same cables for our phones as keyboards, then we carry less crap with us when we go places.Make it micro USB. I might forget that I posted this and post it again on page 15 :pI'm not entirely sure why people want Micro-USB. I generally prefer Mini-USB or (if the size of the board permits it) Full-size USB B. I feel Micro-USB is too thin and insecure.
Micro USB is a much better design than mini in most technical respects. Phones (at least at my company) switched long before space was the primary concern. Mini is much more prone to break the socket than the connector.
Hmm, is the project stalled? :?
I WANT 40% BOARD NAO!!11!!
T00 M4NY 60% b04|2Dz C0m1Ng t0 t3H m4|2K3t na0 4Nd i w0n'7 f33L 1337 uN13sS i h4Z 40% b04|2d...
I am excited for this project. The only thing I'm worried about is the board loosing the signature shape of a keyboard. 75% boards are too square. 60% boards look right. This one may be too square.
shouldn't this be stabilizer less? (Where we're going... we don't need stabilizers)I am excited for this project. The only thing I'm worried about is the board loosing the signature shape of a keyboard. 75% boards are too square. 60% boards look right. This one may be too square.
It no look square to me...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0w53a.png)
I have LOTS of them. I mean like 12. :)Ok then are vintage blacks the best blacks, or blacks with 65g Korean springs?
I think a 10 unit spacebar would be awesome, I support your goals jdcarpe. I think I have two 10x spacebars sitting around, I'd donate one to kmiller8 if it might help persuade him :pI too support the 10 unit spacebar!
Why not vintage black with 65g springs? :P
Did we give up on this?
T00 M4NY 60% b04|2Dz C0m1Ng t0 t3H m4|2K3t na0 4Nd i w0n'7 f33L 1337 uN13sS i h4Z 40% b04|2d...
#40%forthemassesplease!
#40%forthemassesplease!
#40%forthemassesplease!
Look for more info on this once the GH60s have shipped. Oh, I also have that Alps TKL board project. Hmmm, I've got quite a few irons in the fire, huh?
#40%forthemassesplease!
Look for more info on this once the GH60s have shipped. Oh, I also have that Alps TKL board project. Hmmm, I've got quite a few irons in the fire, huh?
#40%forthemassesplease!
Look for more info on this once the GH60s have shipped. Oh, I also have that Alps TKL board project. Hmmm, I've got quite a few irons in the fire, huh?
Why wait for the Gh60 to ship? Did you not get the packi I sent you?
#40%forthemassesplease!
Look for more info on this once the GH60s have shipped. Oh, I also have that Alps TKL board project. Hmmm, I've got quite a few irons in the fire, huh?
Why wait for the Gh60 to ship? Did you not get the packi I sent you?
Oh, yes I got it in the mail yesterday. And I will have my personal project complete soon-ish. But Ray asked for it for the masses. So that will take a little while. :)