Why would they have settings saved to the cloud and not onboard? Trying to force you to install their software on every computer you might use it on?
Have you seen this thing? (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/) It's not mechanical, but I think it might be a better choice than this thing.
Maybe MX Reds?In that thing? They say they click, and have 2mm actuation. Is that Blue? Or something else? Maybe Blues.
Not sure why anyone would want to use one of these vs say.. a Poker or Pure.Why someone would want a keypad vs keyboard?? :confused:
You should get bigger hands, miss. :o
Not sure why anyone would want to use one of these vs say.. a Poker or Pure.Why someone would want a keypad vs keyboard?? :confused:
BTW, my question was questioning if that is what they meant.. if they were suggesting a keyboard over a keypad.. which makes no sense to me.Not sure why anyone would want to use one of these vs say.. a Poker or Pure.Why someone would want a keypad vs keyboard?? :confused:
Maybe possibly they need even MORE key? :eek:
Before the page was completely loaded I said to myself, "It's going to be $130"Das and Filco don't sell keypads..
Sure enough, when the page loaded a split second later, it was $130. WTF Razer? You can buy a Das for that money, and spend $20 extra you can get a Filco!
Not sure why anyone would want to use one of these vs say.. a Poker or Pure.Why someone would want a keypad vs keyboard?? :confused:
Before the page was completely loaded I said to myself, "It's going to be $130"Das and Filco don't sell keypads..
Sure enough, when the page loaded a split second later, it was $130. WTF Razer? You can buy a Das for that money, and spend $20 extra you can get a Filco!
As posted above.. "BTW, my question was questioning if that is what they meant.. if they were suggesting a keyboard over a keypad.. which makes no sense to me." :)Not sure why anyone would want to use one of these vs say.. a Poker or Pure.Why someone would want a keypad vs keyboard?? :confused:
It's really convenient especially for MMOs. You have the convenience of having the keys lumped in one area and you can bind skills to the keys and it's possible to set modifiers to be able to bind even more things to them if you run out of keys to bind. The thumb pad is nice and eliminates the need to WASD and I think it gives better movement reaction than WASD'ing. The other random buttons on top of the thumbpad and below it are nice to set specific functions to as well. You can basically play a game just using mouse and keypad, only using keyboard to type.
So you're comparing the price of a keypad with the price of keyboards.. two different products..Before the page was completely loaded I said to myself, "It's going to be $130"Das and Filco don't sell keypads..
Sure enough, when the page loaded a split second later, it was $130. WTF Razer? You can buy a Das for that money, and spend $20 extra you can get a Filco!
Keyboard. I meant Keyboard. If you know Filco doesn't sell Keypads, and they sell keyboards for $150, what can you conclude from that statement?
So you're comparing the price of a keypad with the price of keyboards.. two different products..Before the page was completely loaded I said to myself, "It's going to be $130"Das and Filco don't sell keypads..
Sure enough, when the page loaded a split second later, it was $130. WTF Razer? You can buy a Das for that money, and spend $20 extra you can get a Filco!
Keyboard. I meant Keyboard. If you know Filco doesn't sell Keypads, and they sell keyboards for $150, what can you conclude from that statement?
Actually, people use them with their keyboard, sometimes, too.. rather than buying a "gaming"keyboard with lots of macros keys. It's not likely they would be using their keypad to type out writing, if they communicate in game..or is it.
Just as I thought :)Actually, people use them with their keyboard, sometimes, too.. rather than buying a "gaming"keyboard with lots of macros keys. It's not likely they would be using their keypad to type out writing, if they communicate in game..or is it.
I use my Belkin N52TE keypad with my keyboard. And no, it isn't likely that anyone would use their gaming keypad to type out writing. It's really just to have everything you need to game with (minus typing) right at the palm of your hand.
If they made two of them, one for lefthanded and one fore righthanded, would it be reasonable to thing I could set them up to use as a keyboard/mouse combo? Can you use the thumbstick as a mouse?I'd assume the settings would actually end up being the same for both, unless there's some way to make one run a different profile.
If they made two of them, one for lefthanded and one fore righthanded, would it be reasonable to thing I could set them up to use as a keyboard/mouse combo? Can you use the thumbstick as a mouse?
Well the Logitech has onboard memory, so I assume it would work with those.If they made two of them, one for lefthanded and one fore righthanded, would it be reasonable to thing I could set them up to use as a keyboard/mouse combo? Can you use the thumbstick as a mouse?I'd assume the settings would actually end up being the same for both, unless there's some way to make one run a different profile.
What are the options under Mouse Button, missalaire? And it seems only logical that it should work as a mouse as well. That's just lazy and lame.
I'll be honest. I'll probably buy one.
You should add in the OP that it has Blue switches.
I wonder who will be the first person on geekhack to buy one of this and mod the swtiches to mx red/black/ergo clear :Pi plan to i might swap the leds too not digging the green maybe orange or yellow? Will probably replace the keycaps as well maybe zinc?
Honestly blue is probably the worst choice for WASD actions lol.
i plan to i might swap the leds too not digging the green maybe orange or yellow? Will probably replace the keycaps as well maybe zinc?
either ergo's or vintage blacksi plan to i might swap the leds too not digging the green maybe orange or yellow? Will probably replace the keycaps as well maybe zinc?
What do you plan on swapping the switches to?
Orange/Yellow LEDs with zinc caps would be ridiculously awesome. Can't wait to see you do this.
i could swear ive seen a keypad like this before somewhere thats was mechanical.
oh ya mine i made :PShow Image(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/75/37/68753775/photos/undefined/2012-12-17_23-17-17_631.jpg)
sure as hell didnt cost anywhere near $135 for mine and mine has a 6dof joystick. using the nostromo electronics on this prototype.soft rest also solves the problem of being able to move up and hit higher keys. and im still working on 3rd version with better asthetics.
**** this device. Synapse 2.0 required. "Saved in the cloud" is a complete load of bull. It's saved local - the only "cloud" part is that you CAN'T USE THE DEVICE AT ALL if you aren't online or if Razer's servers go down yet again. It is literally hardware DRM. The device is completely disabled if Synapse 2.0 can't call home every 60 seconds.What? Do you have anything to support this claim? Everything I have heard so far indicates that you only need to be online for the very first time setting it up, after that you don't need a connection.
i could swear ive seen a keypad like this before somewhere thats was mechanical.
oh ya mine i made :PShow Image(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/75/37/68753775/photos/undefined/2012-12-17_23-17-17_631.jpg)
sure as hell didnt cost anywhere near $135 for mine and mine has a 6dof joystick. using the nostromo electronics on this prototype.soft rest also solves the problem of being able to move up and hit higher keys. and im still working on 3rd version with better asthetics.
[attachimg=1]Before the page was completely loaded I said to myself, "It's going to be $130"Das and Filco don't sell keypads..
Sure enough, when the page loaded a split second later, it was $130. WTF Razer? You can buy a Das for that money, and spend $20 extra you can get a Filco!
(Attachment Link)Before the page was completely loaded I said to myself, "It's going to be $130"Das and Filco don't sell keypads..
Sure enough, when the page loaded a split second later, it was $130. WTF Razer? You can buy a Das for that money, and spend $20 extra you can get a Filco!
It seems to be on preorder.it actually is a bit more ramped up than the old belkins physically imo, it has more buttons! there is an extra top row and where the old scroll wheel on the belkin used to be is another button, seems to be highly adjustable (ala rat9 mice) and the buttons have different heights (whats the term for that).
It is just like the old Belkin. just with mxblues.
WHY would they make this in MX Blues. WHY.so people like me can rip then out and put vintage blacks or ergo clears in
WHY would they make this in MX Blues. WHY.Because of all the mechanical switches the blues are the ones that sound the part, really hammering home the "THIS IS A MECHANICAL KEYBOARD" part.
WHY would they make this in MX Blues. WHY.so people like me can rip then out and put vintage blacks or ergo clears in
http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-orbweaver?src=pgm.81594800If it's like most Razer products, it will develop significant faults inside of six-months and be effectively non-functional within a year.
**** this device. Synapse 2.0 required. "Saved in the cloud" is a complete load of bull. It's saved local - the only "cloud" part is that you CAN'T USE THE DEVICE AT ALL if you aren't online or if Razer's servers go down yet again. It is literally hardware DRM. The device is completely disabled if Synapse 2.0 can't call home every 60 seconds.Not exactly. If it's like their other hardware, it doesn't become non-functional without Synapse, just less functional. And, yes, that's a pretty ****ty way to do hardware.
Why would they have settings saved to the cloud and not onboard? Trying to force you to install their software on every computer you might use it on?Because.. THE CLOUD!!! You have to have THE CLOUD!!!!
APPS IN THE CLOUDWhy would they have settings saved to the cloud and not onboard? Trying to force you to install their software on every computer you might use it on?Because.. THE CLOUD!!! You have to have THE CLOUD!!!!
Everything is in the CLOUD!
Marketing BS.
Cisco/Linksys has tried to do the same with their router settings. Not only is it pointless, but it's a serious security issue as well.
http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-orbweaver?src=pgm.81594800If it's like most Razer products, it will develop significant faults inside of six-months and be effectively non-functional within a year.
I'll be so glad to get rid of my garbage g13, freaking piece of crap. I was going to pay someone to mod it for me but I'd rather just buy this orbweaver. Perfect foot print for fps gamers who have a huge mousepad and play low sens and whip the mouse. Same concept as tkl for productivity. Better positioning IMO.I like High sensitivity. Don't really see why people like Low sensitivity, but meh
It is used for precise movement and accuracy in professional FPS games.I'll be so glad to get rid of my garbage g13, freaking piece of crap. I was going to pay someone to mod it for me but I'd rather just buy this orbweaver. Perfect foot print for fps gamers who have a huge mousepad and play low sens and whip the mouse. Same concept as tkl for productivity. Better positioning IMO.I like High sensitivity. Don't really see why people like Low sensitivity, but meh
High with cloth, low with hard.i use the slickest mat i can find with every sensitivity i play with
It is used for precise movement and accuracy in professional FPS games.I'll be so glad to get rid of my garbage g13, freaking piece of crap. I was going to pay someone to mod it for me but I'd rather just buy this orbweaver. Perfect foot print for fps gamers who have a huge mousepad and play low sens and whip the mouse. Same concept as tkl for productivity. Better positioning IMO.I like High sensitivity. Don't really see why people like Low sensitivity, but meh
Source: Former CoD4 ProMod Team Captain/Scope
I used to be like that, I was going to get the IceMat from Steelseries. Never did.
I used to like the Destructor and other Razer pads.
I am switching to soft pads now.
everyone should try a C4 NGen <3 their pads
Their site is cheaper than amazon but I am not sure about their shipping rates.i think the shipping is reasonable. They also have more options on their site and you get slightly blemished pads for $8 if you just want to try the surface.
Amazon seems to come with mouse feet. does their site come with mouse feet too?no but you can buy the mouse feet separately
What do you mean by blemished pads for $8?
Some of us still don't really like having to move the mouse two feet just to do a 180. Bit of an exaggerated example, I know, but it does get quite tiring for me to move the mouse such large distances for the same in-game movement.It is used for precise movement and accuracy in professional FPS games.I'll be so glad to get rid of my garbage g13, freaking piece of crap. I was going to pay someone to mod it for me but I'd rather just buy this orbweaver. Perfect foot print for fps gamers who have a huge mousepad and play low sens and whip the mouse. Same concept as tkl for productivity. Better positioning IMO.I like High sensitivity. Don't really see why people like Low sensitivity, but meh
Source: Former CoD4 ProMod Team Captain/Scope
Pretty much this. Ask any pro fps player how many inches for a 180 or 360. I used to be high sens until I learned how to play low sens.
I think it would have been smart by Razer to introduce a new switch to its users. But it seems to be all blue all day over there. I have never used one of these devices and don't plan on it. I've used my regular keyboard for so long and have had great success with it.
I don't think the thumbpad can be used as a mouse,It's quite possible to use it as a mouse - even if it is a bit clunky. It can also be used to emulate a joystick. Have a look at Di Axis *.
there's the belkin n52 and the razer up'd version called the n52te, aside from the "bling" they put on it, it also uses different programming/macro'ing software than the old belkin n52 and by a landslide opinion is worse than the old n52.The n52te also has better keys (even if they're still nothing special). And it acts as an actual keyboard, so games can't block it.
with that said, is this awesome? well the original n52 cost 60 bucks(i bought a few used ones for 20 or so), you can still buy a n52te for 70?, so you gotta ask yourself, is 80bucks worth it for a few cherry keys?Well, the hardware certainly seems nice. But, yeah, I'm not sure it's worth the premium, especially since the n52te does work well enough once you figure out it's peculiarities.
I dislike MX Blues for gaming, no idea why they would choose those, so i fixed it, replaced the WASD keys with MX blacks, and just for kicks because i had blue LEDs in ye olde parts bin about I replaced the LEDs as well. The blues work for the non movement keys rather well, but moving around games with that infernal clacking was no good.Very intriguing, Peter!
Very intriguing, Peter!
I recently picked up the Orbweaver myself and, while I do like it a lot, I was looking to do exactly what you did there with the switches. (found this post via Google :cool: )
Could you please tell me how the switches are mounted? ie, did you need to do any soldering (aside from your LED modification)?
Obviously you had to take the thing apart, any tips or things to beware of while disassembling?
I imagine the screws are underneath the rubber feet, yeah?
Thanks!
I PM'd Peter earlier this week about this exact thing as I'm in the same boat as you and he was able to confirm that the screws are indeed under the rubber feet, so you either need to remove them or feel around for the screw holes (I'm imagining they're recessed a bit) and then punch through the rubber to unscrew them (this has the potential benefit of keeping the original glue on the feet).Awesome, Tapaxn. Thanks!
Because there is an LED in each switch, you will at least need to desolder that. At that point you could potentially just swap the internals of the switches and resolder the LEDs rather than go through all the extra work of desoldering and resoldering each switch entirely. Based on this, it doesn't sound like they're plate mounted.
I'm not sure when I'll have a chance to get to this as I need to order parts first, but I'll try and take some pictures of the process and post them here. If you beat me to it, I'd love to see any pictures you could provide.That would be great!
Awesome, Tapaxn. Thanks!
That would be great!
I've never messed around with MX switches so I'm kind of in no hurry to screw this up by going in blind so, if you don't mind, I'll probably wait for you :-[
That is, unless I find another case of someone doing this to an Orbweaver. In that case I'll be sure to post some pics for you!
I'm curious what your thoughts on the caps that come with the Orbweaver are.
I ordered some replacement caps today because I'm not a fan of all the different angles the caps that come with it have. Nor am I a fan of how they're all flat.
As for the rest of the thing, I like it a lot. The whole thumb area and overall comfort is a huge improvement over the Nostromo imo (which I ended up returning).
Taking apart the actual switch is pretty simple - here's a guide (the pictures should be more than enough) that I think I found linked on this site, but I can't quite remember:Wow, great. Thanks!
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=tipandtech&document_srl=3520312 (http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/index.php?mid=tipandtech&document_srl=3520312)
I was able to fashion something similar and it works quite well. I had to file down the ends on the clips to make them narrow enough to fit properly, but it's pretty straight forward. It helped that I had some spare switches to test with from the WASD Keyboards sample pack that I ordered.
For soldering, I came across this guide:
http://imgur.com/a/UIhf9 (http://imgur.com/a/UIhf9)
In terms of replacement keycaps, I don't mind the angles all that much and I kind of like the rubberized feel (at least for a gaming pad). Having said that, I tried some standard keycaps (also from the WASD sample pack) and couldn't get them on as the plate that's underneath the caps prevents you from pushing the cap down far enough to seat it properly. You might be able to finagle one on, but unless it's a very shallow/short cap like the stock ones, I think the plate might prevent enough travel to allow for key activation.uh-oh. Looks like I may have to do some filing. :eek: I ordered that same sample pack. haha
Wanted to put a shout out to Peter for his advice...I am very happy with my modification with cherry mx brown and the change in LED colors :). Pic attached for the curious.
Here's the underside of mine
As hungrymonkey said, to not compromise the glue on the rubber pads by removing them I prodded with my philips head jeweler's screwdriver until i found a soft spot then rammed it through and undid the screw.
The holes with rubber plugs I simply removed the plugs with a pin then discarded them.
you'll need to remove all the keycaps to disassemble the unit
Once you have all the bottom screws off, remove the lower plate and undo the screws on the side 'arm' thing
Then you can begin prying apart the main part of the machine, there are more screws, but they arent hidden, pay attention to how the rail thing and the pin works, there's an odd inbetween piece you need to make note of.
you can safely remove the big circuit board by disconnecting the ribbon cable, its got a nice plug and socket and can be removed without damaging it.
To replace the LEDs just pick up standard 3mm LEDs, just make sure they are wired with the 'spades' inside the LED pointing the same direction as the stock ones.
http://i.imgur.com/ynATTCc.jpg
Here's the underside of mineGood stuff, Peter. Thanks for that. It'll make cracking this thing open that much easier.
I should have my replacement switches later this week, so I'll post some internal pictures when I take mine apart to install them.I'm looking forward to seeing those pics!
Wanted to put a shout out to Peter for his advice...I am very happy with my modification with cherry mx brown and the change in LED colors :). Pic attached for the curious.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cbtr2ua.jpg?1)
You can get one and mod it to whatever switches you want Quardah. I'm going to put 65g Blues or Ghetto Greens in mine I think. And I'm pretty sure Pink LEDs will work so I'll be swapping those stock green ones for Pink LEDs. I'll post a build log if anyone is interested.
You can get one and mod it to whatever switches you want Quardah. I'm going to put 65g Blues or Ghetto Greens in mine I think. And I'm pretty sure Pink LEDs will work so I'll be swapping those stock green ones for Pink LEDs. I'll post a build log if anyone is interested.
1) Since you have experience (And you're Badass Captain level lol) i might ask you something, do you need to weld the entire thing to change cherry color or the mechanism permits you to switch it easily? I am not very familiar with all of this...
2) And what soldering iron do you use? We had pretty ****ty ones back in school...
1) Since you have experience (And you're Badass Captain level lol) i might ask you something, do you need to weld the entire thing to change cherry color or the mechanism permits you to switch it easily? I am not very familiar with all of this...
2) And what soldering iron do you use? We had pretty ****ty ones back in school...
1) The switch is it's own part. You open the Orbweaver/keyboard up and there will be a bunch of self contained switches. If you look at my Spring Swap review (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=44749.0#post_Guide), it has pictures of what a switch looks and how you'd swap the stems/springs out.
2) I have a Hakko 936, which I understand is the older model of the Hakko 888. If you are going to get a soldering iron, I'd recommend a Hakko 936/888 or a Weller WESD51. Check out the Living Soldering Thread (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0) for more tips.
Have you seen this thing? (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/) It's not mechanical, but I think it might be a better choice than this thing.
Have you seen this thing? (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/) It's not mechanical, but I think it might be a better choice than this thing.
Eww! Rubber dome.
Have you seen this thing? (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/) It's not mechanical, but I think it might be a better choice than this thing.
Eww! Rubber dome.
It might be better if you have really large hands because I'm pretty sure the Logitech G13 is bigger and wider than the Nostromo or Orbweaver. I'd still prefer the Nostromo over that though since I think its shaped better ergonomically and I have small hands.
Have you seen this thing? (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/) It's not mechanical, but I think it might be a better choice than this thing.
Eww! Rubber dome.
It might be better if you have really large hands because I'm pretty sure the Logitech G13 is bigger and wider than the Nostromo or Orbweaver. I'd still prefer the Nostromo over that though since I think its shaped better ergonomically and I have small hands.
And it is TONS easier to hit specific directions on the dpad on the Nostromo. I have had both. Thinking of modding my Nostromo to Cherry switches and selling my Orbweaver that is already modded to clears with reds on the WASD and blue LED's.
So, I just got an Orbweaver, but so far it hasn't really impressed me. I've still got about 40 days to decide if I want to return it, but so far I'm not too keen on keeping it. If I do keep it, I'll most likely mod it, at least get rid of the noisy blues.
Anyone here got any suggestions for "unlocking its true potential"? So far I've only played TF2 with it, not terribly impressed. Dunno how I should set it up to get the most out of it in a game, so setup suggestions for various games are very welcome.
So, I just got an Orbweaver, but so far it hasn't really impressed me. I've still got about 40 days to decide if I want to return it, but so far I'm not too keen on keeping it. If I do keep it, I'll most likely mod it, at least get rid of the noisy blues.
Anyone here got any suggestions for "unlocking its true potential"? So far I've only played TF2 with it, not terribly impressed. Dunno how I should set it up to get the most out of it in a game, so setup suggestions for various games are very welcome.
The best thing the device will give you as "true potential" is your money back.
well take full advantage of what you can do with the custom layout... if you make it to be the same as your keyboard you are better off using a keyboard unless you want something a little more ergo.
My orbweaver has all kinds of macros set up for different games to make reloads/weapon switches/multi-button combos occur flawlessly every time.
If you don't like a fully programmable left handed number pad with thumb switches I guess you aren't looking for an orbweaver :-/
So, I just got an Orbweaver, but so far it hasn't really impressed me. I've still got about 40 days to decide if I want to return it, but so far I'm not too keen on keeping it. If I do keep it, I'll most likely mod it, at least get rid of the noisy blues.
Anyone here got any suggestions for "unlocking its true potential"? So far I've only played TF2 with it, not terribly impressed. Dunno how I should set it up to get the most out of it in a game, so setup suggestions for various games are very welcome.
Problem with the Orbweaver is that it is the first of its kind. No one ever made any other mechanical gaming keypad and Razer are making it waaay too expensive for what it is.
I mean you can get a good quality mecho. for about 100$, why would have of it in a weird shape be 140$? It has less mechanical switches therefore i can't understand how comes you pay about 150% of the price for about 20% of a full board.
Something is going to happen in this field sooner or later since there's a market for keypads and razer is the only serious concurrent in it. Therefore no choices for customers means they can set the price as high as they want. I wish Logitech would step back or even Steelseries steps in. Build Quality is way better for both.
Here's what would be ok :
- 70$-80$ prod cost means about 120$ shipped for the buyer
- Full mechanical with switch choice (Or changeable)
- Has same layout has orb weaver, which means 4x5 keys on top
- Thumb button (not incredibly useless and non-accurate 8 axis joypad) maybe like the Naga Hex (at least 4)
- Space button (maybe even multiple)
- Palm Rest, Movable like the Nostromo. Rubber with Logo engraved for ultimate comfyness.
- Killer design like a Filco or SteelSeries or Leopold keyboard (Serious design made for adults and gods of gaming like Gaben or like any PC Master Race users like us ultimate warriors of the internet)
- USB interface with not completly ****ty software like Synapse which can't sync your **** properly and therefore it syncs empty layout destroying your local layout since it's uber ****.
- No Gimmicky backlight
- No Cheap-Made rubber dome (Doesn't apply for Orbweaver but applies for all other keypads)
- No Overprice like crazy
- No Razer logo
- Not made in China cheap ****
- No ORDER NOW FOR ULTIMATE RAZOR $W@G (Only valid for orders at least 400$ without taxes)
Quardah, I demand a picture of your orbweaver for proof that you've had any of these problems, or have a concept of what the product actually does.
Your wall of text looks to be very contrived.
Quardah, I demand a picture of your orbweaver for proof that you've had any of these problems, or have a concept of what the product actually does.
Your wall of text looks to be very contrived.
This.
Plus the Orbweaver is hardly the first of its kind. There was the N52 from belkin then they made the N52te, Razer then had the nostromo and now there are 3 iterations of the Orbweaver. Available with blues, browns i think and RD switches. Plus countless full sized keyboards with "game pads" built into the left side instead of a num pad on the right. In fact I used to have one of those and my wife still uses hers.
Quardah, I demand a picture of your orbweaver for proof that you've had any of these problems, or have a concept of what the product actually does.
Your wall of text looks to be very contrived.
Quardah, I demand a picture of your orbweaver for proof that you've had any of these problems, or have a concept of what the product actually does.
Your wall of text looks to be very contrived.
This.
Plus the Orbweaver is hardly the first of its kind. There was the N52 from belkin then they made the N52te, Razer then had the nostromo and now there are 3 iterations of the Orbweaver. Available with blues, browns i think and RD switches. Plus countless full sized keyboards with "game pads" built into the left side instead of a num pad on the right. In fact I used to have one of those and my wife still uses hers.
He's saying it's the first to be mechanical, and he's right.
Binge - wall of text? It's a few sentences plus a list :))
Also he mostly complains about price and other small details but no real physical "problems" and he's right about the price. It's clearly overpriced.
My orbweavers cost $70/ea. The retail price is also about or less than 1/2 of a whole ergonomic keyboard with less function. Overpriced is not the word...How does the ergodox have less function?
My orbweavers cost $70/ea. The retail price is also about or less than 1/2 of a whole ergonomic keyboard with less function. Overpriced is not the word...How does the ergodox have less function?
The real question I have about Orbweaver is, does its thumb controller work well enough and comfortable enough to assign WASD to it full-time? That's the only reason I would cough up that kind of dough to buy it.
The real question I have about Orbweaver is, does its thumb controller work well enough and comfortable enough to assign WASD to it full-time? That's the only reason I would cough up that kind of dough to buy it.
Yes.
I would like something like this, but it doesn't have enough keys for myself. maybe if it had a function row.
I would like something like this, but it doesn't have enough keys for myself. maybe if it had a function row.
I would like something like this, but it doesn't have enough keys for myself. maybe if it had a function row.
Lol? what are you doing that requires that many keys? and you do realize you can make modifiers so you can have more binds, right?
I would like something like this, but it doesn't have enough keys for myself. maybe if it had a function row.
Lol? what are you doing that requires that many keys? and you do realize you can make modifiers so you can have more binds, right?
Layers and binds cost time in fps games that will get you and your entire team killed.
I would like something like this, but it doesn't have enough keys for myself. maybe if it had a function row.
Lol? what are you doing that requires that many keys? and you do realize you can make modifiers so you can have more binds, right?
Layers and binds cost time in fps games that will get you and your entire team killed.
The orbweaver does have enough keys for most FPS games though, at least the ones where you actually need time and precision. If you're playing something like CS then the only thing you might want on another layer is buy macros. After I got mine I have been using it with great success in CS games and TF2, so I'd be interested to know what kind of precision fps games you play that requires more keys than the orbweaver has.
I would like something like this, but it doesn't have enough keys for myself. maybe if it had a function row.
Lol? what are you doing that requires that many keys? and you do realize you can make modifiers so you can have more binds, right?
Layers and binds cost time in fps games that will get you and your entire team killed.
The orbweaver does have enough keys for most FPS games though, at least the ones where you actually need time and precision. If you're playing something like CS then the only thing you might want on another layer is buy macros. After I got mine I have been using it with great success in CS games and TF2, so I'd be interested to know what kind of precision fps games you play that requires more keys than the orbweaver has.
Finally got used to the Orbweaver, I see :P
I would like something like this, but it doesn't have enough keys for myself. maybe if it had a function row.
Lol? what are you doing that requires that many keys? and you do realize you can make modifiers so you can have more binds, right?
Layers and binds cost time in fps games that will get you and your entire team killed.
The orbweaver does have enough keys for most FPS games though, at least the ones where you actually need time and precision. If you're playing something like CS then the only thing you might want on another layer is buy macros. After I got mine I have been using it with great success in CS games and TF2, so I'd be interested to know what kind of precision fps games you play that requires more keys than the orbweaver has.
Pressing 2 keys at once doesn't take longer than pressing a single key alone tho...
Problem is burning it into your muscle memory and doing it as reflex, can take very long.
I can't figure out how to open this without destroying it so maybe someone else here can help me.
I have the yellow section free and the red part is still attached together:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/peCY6lW.jpg)
A look underneath the two rubber pads reveals a molding mark and this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5ZDt0LS.jpg)
How do I access that screw? It's the last screw I think that is holding the device together.
Did you get it open? I've gotta get around to modding mine soon, and knowing how to get it open would help :/
This section can be simply popped off!
Did you get it open? I've gotta get around to modding mine soon, and knowing how to get it open would help :/
Not yetThis section can be simply popped off!
This section as in that cover over the screw will come off it I pry it off?
Hi All -
I am thinking about getting an Orb and I was just wondering how easy it is to adapt one's gaming from a WSAD play-style to a thumb pad controlling the avatar's movement? I only play Call of Duty so does anyone else use the Orb for playing CoD? I know the learning curve is subjective and based on personal experience and/or skill level. So I was just wondering how quick and easy people have found the transition from either a keyboard or WSAD game pad to the Orb?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!!! :thumb:
Hi All -
I am thinking about getting an Orb and I was just wondering how easy it is to adapt one's gaming from a WSAD play-style to a thumb pad controlling the avatar's movement? I only play Call of Duty so does anyone else use the Orb for playing CoD? I know the learning curve is subjective and based on personal experience and/or skill level. So I was just wondering how quick and easy people have found the transition from either a keyboard or WSAD game pad to the Orb?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!!! :thumb:
Would it be possible to map the keys for a typing layout and use it as a one-handed keyboard in Windows?
Please someone help me open the side part with the thumb-stick without breaking it, I cant find the trick. I need to mod an analogue Joystick in there.
Do you guys think there is something under the metal sticker? I did remove all visible screws and it wont pop off. It really feels if another hidden screw holds it in place.
I dont thinks its possible to remove the metal sticky around the stick without damaging it.
I need to get in there dammit.
Show Image(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2832/9811580795_23b2104abf.jpg)
There's probably screws here now that I look at the pictures.
With our powers combined vun, we can open this Orbweaver! :P
/me high fives vun
I want to put an analogue Joystick beside the digital thumbpad one. The rubber removed there are some screws, the metal you mean comes off. The rest is a plastic hull that wont open. The metal sticker I mean is on top around the thumb stick. A friend from Finland can make it work with a teensy on PC and over XIM to Xbox/PS.
On monday I could do an X-ray of the thumb piece maybe at least to see if there are still screws in there.
I did, I went between the plastic parts with a thin screwdriver, the force applied was so huge I can only imagine a screw is holding it. Normally if you pry open a part it stays this one snapped back. Must be a screw, but where?
Its impenetrable. Kryptonite anyone?
I plan to mod mine and am wondering which LED's I need to get to change the keys colour? Can anyone recommend some for me please???
Its done you can find the code that needs to be flashed on the teensy on the XIM forum. The analog mod is awesome.Show Image(http://www7.pic-upload.de/17.11.13/r6kc8zpjwn4y.jpg)Show Image(http://www7.pic-upload.de/17.11.13/zfeeem63phps.jpg)Show Image(http://www7.pic-upload.de/17.11.13/yu4j48umu747.jpg)Show Image(http://www7.pic-upload.de/17.11.13/esj5i8m4wnx.jpg)Show Image(http://www7.pic-upload.de/17.11.13/vfm3sxxcc6yo.jpg)
Thanks for that. Does the size of the LED's matter or will any fit?
Yes the size matters, 2x3x4mm square is the size I prefer.
Yes the size matters, 2x3x4mm square is the size I prefer.
So which size is the correct size to get???
I was wondering if the keycaps can have o-rings put on them. I bought the regular version so noise might be an issue for me; do the modified keycaps not allow o-rings or will it be fine? Thanks!
Have you seen this thing? (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/) It's not mechanical, but I think it might be a better choice than this thing.
I found this on youtube. This guy completed a Razer Orbweaver LED mod in bright red. Looks pretty sweet. I’m using his tutorial. Seems simple enough. Check it out: list=UUNVzzWmdn4p0a1oBtT5qgqQ&feature=c4-overviewThat looks like a cool mod, but... are you sure you just happened to stumble upon it and then stumble upon this particular thread? You say you found it, but @13:55 (http://youtu.be/oqUYqPUwn2g?t=13m55s) you can see the computer username Omar Lopez-Nunez, which is pretty similar to your own forum username. If it's yours, just take credit for it. >_>
I have a little problem with my orbweaber the key from 6 to 10 are die!!! any ideas??? (leds still work)
While I don't remember what the voltages were for low and medium brightness settings (they do change with this setting) on high it was in the 3.1 to 3.2 range.
For modding, I wouldn't worry about getting PCB mount. Just desolder the LED's open the switches, swap out springs and stems as appropriate, and reassemble. If you want to be able to swap out switch guts in the future without removing the LED's you have a couple options.
Install sip sockets for the LED's, though not sure of any European dealers that have them, or you can modify the switch tops.
Here is a video regarding the modification of the switch tops. While he uses a dremel, I think I would use a good pair of flush cutters or a razor knife. It doesn't have to be pretty just functional and the dremel I feel would take longer and make more of a mess.
Wait, so you're telling me the identity of a Cherry MX keyswitch is solely made out of it's colored stem and spring underneath it? :eek:
Well if that's true, it should cut my work by at least half as I won't be needing to desolder and completely pull out the keyswitch from the PCB to replace it with a new one...I'm already in love with these Cherry MX switches. :D
About the LEDs indeed it seems that for 3mm (or 5mm) Blue and Green LED your typical voltage is at 3.2V (Max 3.4)...but for Red, Orange and Yellow those figures drop to 1.8 (Max 2.3). So what would happen if I would to install some red and orange LEDs in there and then crank the brightens to max in settings...will that burn my red and orange LEDs?
Wait, so you're telling me the identity of a Cherry MX keyswitch is solely made out of it's colored stem and spring underneath it? :eek:
Well if that's true, it should cut my work by at least half as I won't be needing to desolder and completely pull out the keyswitch from the PCB to replace it with a new one...I'm already in love with these Cherry MX switches. :D
Yes, MX switches only differ in terms of stems and springs. The housings are the same. However, with how the Orbweaver is, you will need to desolder. There is a weird plate in the way. Also, you may need to shave down any normal caps you buy.
For some reference, here's my build log for my Orbweaver mod (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48771.0).About the LEDs indeed it seems that for 3mm (or 5mm) Blue and Green LED your typical voltage is at 3.2V (Max 3.4)...but for Red, Orange and Yellow those figures drop to 1.8 (Max 2.3). So what would happen if I would to install some red and orange LEDs in there and then crank the brightens to max in settings...will that burn my red and orange LEDs?
Can you adjust the brightness? I didn't see any settings in the Orbweaver software. I'm not so sure about the LEDs though.