Space Invaders > cherry then. I knocked over a full cup of hot coffee directly into my space invaders - it started off sending all kinds of signals at that point, of course. Then I opened the casing and ran hot water across everything, on the key caps, back of the pcb and inside both halves of the case. Then I just let it dry and it was fine, the only difference was that it was now very free of all dust. Not sure if that approach would be a good idea or not on that one.
Hey guys,
I've been mainly a lurker around here, reading about several sweet projects and everything else.
But today I need some help. :(
I spilt water on my razer blackwidow. I know, razer is **** and blabla, but it was my first mechanical kb and my only with blues, which I miss using sometimes.
Thing is, it wasn't that much water... I turned it upside down, shook it and left to college. Once I got back I realized some of the keys weren't registering and if I spammed them, things like this would happen:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FZB6rQP.jpg)
(D key)
They kept being registered until I pressed some other key.
I took it apart and saw it wasn't moist or anything, but left it open for 15 hours or so in hope it would magically start working again, no luck though.
I also tried downloading the pre-synapse firmware updater but it doenst recognize the keyboard, even though synapse would reconize it just fine.
Any ideas on how to bring it back from the dead?
If nothing else works I think I will have to find a way to reuse these blues. :confused:
Are you talking about rust? Because other than the plate, which is painted, the pcb should have no pure iron. Not sure what else would use water in such a process. Once it was dry everything looked and works perfect.
Go for a Ducky.
And considering the name it is probably more resilient to water...
As I've said earlier, looking at the amount of switches that fail (and the way they stay actuated), it looks like the controller is dead. That would mean that cleaning the board or replacing switches wouldn't help. Of course I can't be certain, so replace a few and see if that helps.
If it doesn't help, I wouldn't recommend soldering a whole board as your very first soldering project. Train soldering and desoldering on your BW first before you move on to a custom PCB.
Thanks for the response guys.
I will try desoldering the problematic switches and swap with working ones, but I will need to wait until monday to get a desoldering pump. If it works, I will try isopropyl alcohol to clean the contacts, otherwise, time for a new board. Any other possible solution? Full isopropyl alcohol bath maybe?
Having the worst in mind, anyone recommend any 87% board (preferably with the diodes already soldered) which I could reuse blackwidow leds, switches and keycaps? I'd love breathing and reactive mode, and maybe a metal case, but heck, I just wanna be able use those again.
I'd need a PCB, plate, controller and a case only, is that right?
Welp, if it comes to it, for someone who never even soldered anything, it should be an interesting experiment.
Oh OK yeah I've heard some bad things about the Brazilian postal system...
If you want backlighting you probably want some sort of Korean custom, the phantom doesn't offer backlighting.
Oh OK yeah I've heard some bad things about the Brazilian postal system...
If you want backlighting you probably want some sort of Korean custom, the phantom doesn't offer backlighting.
Multiply what you heard by 10, lol.
Like LZ's ou KMAC's, you mean?
I read about Sprit's model 1 as well.
I considered getting a KMAC because it was the only one I found for prompt sale (http://www.originativeco.com/products/kmac-2) but I admit I'd love a sky blue case and would hate to solder every single diode.
Like LZ's ou KMAC's, you mean?
I read about Sprit's model 1 as well.
I considered getting a KMAC because it was the only one I found for prompt sale (http://www.originativeco.com/products/kmac-2) but I admit I'd love a sky blue case and would hate to solder every single diode.
Thanks for the response guys.
I will try desoldering the problematic switches and swap with working ones, but I will need to wait until monday to get a desoldering pump. If it works, I will try isopropyl alcohol to clean the contacts, otherwise, time for a new board. Any other possible solution? Full isopropyl alcohol bath maybe?
Having the worst in mind, anyone recommend any 87% board (preferably with the diodes already soldered) which I could reuse blackwidow leds, switches and keycaps? I'd love breathing and reactive mode, and maybe a metal case, but heck, I just wanna be able use those again.
I'd need a PCB, plate, controller and a case only, is that right?
Welp, if it comes to it, for someone who never even soldered anything, it should be an interesting experiment.
if u think isopropyl bath, why dont try contact cleaner?
its basically same, except isopropyl if not 99% have water in it that might not good, thus imo better try contact cleaner
try deoxit (save for plastic version) if you can find it
or you can use standard contact cleaner, it will do same thing, except some contact cleaner might/can damage plastic material
well just small amount wont damage the switch i think
i use philips contact cleaner (that said can damage plastic) for fixing mouse double click many times, and didnt have problem with plastic on the switch
spray it on effected switch, press switch few times to let liquid get into it
and test it if it fix it or not
Oh OK yeah I've heard some bad things about the Brazilian postal system...
If you want backlighting you probably want some sort of Korean custom, the phantom doesn't offer backlighting.
Multiply what you heard by 10, lol.
Like LZ's ou KMAC's, you mean?
I read about Sprit's model 1 as well.
I considered getting a KMAC because it was the only one I found for prompt sale (http://www.originativeco.com/products/kmac-2) but I admit I'd love a sky blue case and would hate to solder every single diode.
I would NOT buy from originative, there won't be anything prompt about that sell other than you filing a chargeback.
Like LZ's ou KMAC's, you mean?
I read about Sprit's model 1 as well.
I considered getting a KMAC because it was the only one I found for prompt sale (http://www.originativeco.com/products/kmac-2) but I admit I'd love a sky blue case and would hate to solder every single diode.
Exactly, those would be some options. They're expensive though, but if you don't mind the price they're great boards. You probably can't really get around soldering the diodes, but Sprit offers assembly service, maybe you can ask him to just do that.
I would not recommend buying from Originative right now too, as Sherryton has gone MIA.
Yeah, they are hella expensive. Are there any other cheaper backlit options?
I will also keep a look for some good deals at the classifieds and group buys.