What is up with the crazy amount of 60% PCBs recently? :))
What is up with the crazy amount of 60% PCBs recently? :))
It's a very popular size, with existing cases. :)
What is up with the crazy amount of 60% PCBs recently? :))
It's a very popular size, with existing cases. :)
Correct if I am wrong, but isn't this 3 60% PCBs posted within 7 days?
If this is plug and play ready for Matias keycaps && stabs I'm in for two.
I'm down for one. I'm guessing this will fit into most cases?
$25 + shipping? i'm in.
Would you be able to source a Teensy for me as well?
*edit* damnit i need stabs too.....
More$25 + shipping? i'm in.
Would you be able to source a Teensy for me as well?
*edit* damnit i need stabs too.....
I can certainly buy a Teensy for you and include it in a package. That's easy. However, I get my stabilizers from Gon (http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/) in Korea, and shipping to the US costs at least as much as the stabs themselves.
Again, Thanks everyone for your interest!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Actually there's a slight cost savings if 25 teensies are bought at once ... mayhap it's worth counting teensy interest and doing a dual-GB?
- Bottom row supports 6.25 ANSI spacebar, 7.0 Winkeyless spacebar, 6.0 spacebar, and dual 1.75-key split spacebar.
- Right (and left) Shift key splits to provide a "happily hacking" layout.
Few questions: :D
1) Does the PCB support Teensy Pins (https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy_pins.html) or would it require soldering individual wires to the pcb from the Teensy?
2) Would someone mind posting which through-hole diodes & resistors (part or model #'s) would be needed?
3) Is just the Teensy 2.0 required or the 2.0++? Not sure what the difference is between the two.
This would be my first Teensy project, sorry if my questions are noobie. =P
Few questions: :D
1) Does the PCB support Teensy Pins (https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy_pins.html) or would it require soldering individual wires to the pcb from the Teensy?
2) Would someone mind posting which through-hole diodes & resistors (part or model #'s) would be needed?
3) Is just the Teensy 2.0 required or the 2.0++? Not sure what the difference is between the two.
This would be my first Teensy project, sorry if my questions are noobie. =P
1) Yes, but you want to be sure and remove the plastic spacers on those header pins before soldering to the PCB. You'll want the Teensy PCB as close to the keyboard PCB as possible.
2) Diodes: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1N4148/1N4148FS-ND/458603
Resistors are commonly through hole, 1/4-watt, 5% tolerance, carbon film. Actual value would depend on which color LEDs you would use. (Like these, but this is only an example of a 220-ohm value http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CF14JT220R/CF14JT220RCT-ND/1830334)
3) Teensy 2.0
Ron, as awesome as this sounds, are you taking too much on yourself? You haven't finished the G36 and G122 and you are already designing a new PCB?
Ron, as awesome as this sounds, are you taking too much on yourself? You haven't finished the G36 and G122 and you are already designing a new PCB?
Ron, as awesome as this sounds, are you taking too much on yourself? You haven't finished the G36 and G122 and you are already designing a new PCB?
Never question Ron. He's a machine. Haha!
I think the experience he gained from designing another small form factor keyboard PCB (JD45) allows him to whip up new designs quickly, and get them quoted and ordered immediately after the PCB is finished.
the GH-36 is suffering from a serious lack of completions by the prototypers.
the GH-36 is suffering from a serious lack of completions by the prototypers.
/me runs and hides in shame.
I've got a few newbie questions:Looks like it would need SMD components, controller, resistors, diodes all soldered in before soldering on the switches and LEDs.
1. Will this require any complex wiring or is it just solder on switches and program?
2. How does one program the board, is there some software interface available somewhere?
3. Is it compatible with 60% plates or is it intended to be built PCB-only?
4. Anything else needed?
I've got a few newbie questions:
1. Will this require any complex wiring or is it just solder on switches and program?
2. How does one program the board, is there some software interface available somewhere?
3. Is it compatible with 60% plates or is it intended to be built PCB-only?
4. Anything else needed?
OP says 100% through hole not smd.I've got a few newbie questions:Looks like it would need SMD components, controller, resistors, diodes all soldered in before soldering on the switches and LEDs.
1. Will this require any complex wiring or is it just solder on switches and program?
2. How does one program the board, is there some software interface available somewhere?
3. Is it compatible with 60% plates or is it intended to be built PCB-only?
4. Anything else needed?
I'm in for at least one of these, maybe two.
E: looking at this thread and the other, I don't see how the controller is attached to the board. I prefer to use cheap arduino boards rather than teensy boards. Will it cause a problem if the physical dimensions of the controller are a bit different?
How many rows/cols is the matrix? Looks like 15x5?
I'm in for at least one of these, maybe two.
E: looking at this thread and the other, I don't see how the controller is attached to the board. I prefer to use cheap arduino boards rather than teensy boards. Will it cause a problem if the physical dimensions of the controller are a bit different?
How many rows/cols is the matrix? Looks like 15x5?
There are holes with the Teensy footprint under the \ key. You could theoretically use a Pro Micro or whatever, but you would need to run wires from the Teensy mounting location off-board. Better to just bite the bullet and pay the extra $10 for a Teensy on this one. Plus you'll be supporting a small business (PJRC).
Ah, woops. This appeals to me even more now then!OP says 100% through hole not smd.I've got a few newbie questions:Looks like it would need SMD components, controller, resistors, diodes all soldered in before soldering on the switches and LEDs.
1. Will this require any complex wiring or is it just solder on switches and program?
2. How does one program the board, is there some software interface available somewhere?
3. Is it compatible with 60% plates or is it intended to be built PCB-only?
4. Anything else needed?
1. Solder diodes. Solder Teensy to PCB. [...] Solder switches.
2. Since it is pin compatible with the JD45, adding support to his Easy AVR key mapper should be trivial for metalliqaz to do. That would be the easiest way to create your firmware. Use PJRC's Teensy Loader software to flash it to the Teensy.
3. Should be compatible with most 60% plates out there.
Quick update this morning; I'll try to answer all questions later.
Once again, jdcarpe is correct. All through-hole on 0.100" centers (easy to solder!) and a Teensy under the |\ key. Also a 50-cent transistor for the optional backlighting. The pads for those two components were not on the mock-up in the OP. And yes, a 5x15 matrix, pin-compatible with the JD45.
No surface-mount devices for you to solder!
Outer dimensions will match the Poker X PCB, and I will include both the weird Poker mounts and some more rational ones.
Final mock-up will include all of the above -- and then we'll have the Group Buy Sprint Run.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Quick update this morning; I'll try to answer all questions later.
Once again, jdcarpe is correct. All through-hole on 0.100" centers (easy to solder!) and a Teensy under the |\ key. Also a 50-cent transistor for the optional backlighting. The pads for those two components were not on the mock-up in the OP. And yes, a 5x15 matrix, pin-compatible with the JD45.
No surface-mount devices for you to solder!
Outer dimensions will match the Poker X PCB, and I will include both the weird Poker mounts and some more rational ones.
Final mock-up will include all of the above -- and then we'll have the Group Buy Sprint Run.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Ron,
What resistor values do you recommend for backlighting? I know you had it working on your JD45 prototype.
Quick update this morning; I'll try to answer all questions later.
Once again, jdcarpe is correct. All through-hole on 0.100" centers (easy to solder!) and a Teensy under the |\ key. Also a 50-cent transistor for the optional backlighting. The pads for those two components were not on the mock-up in the OP. And yes, a 5x15 matrix, pin-compatible with the JD45.
No surface-mount devices for you to solder!
Outer dimensions will match the Poker X PCB, and I will include both the weird Poker mounts and some more rational ones.
Final mock-up will include all of the above -- and then we'll have the Group Buy Sprint Run.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Ron,
What resistor values do you recommend for backlighting? I know you had it working on your JD45 prototype.
Won't that depend on your choice of LED (i.e. color).
Is there an add-on option for the Burlwood desk?
Will there be plates?
Hi,
I'm a total newbie at custom boards.
I have a Focus FK 2001 with complicated white ALPS which isn't working, and it seems that I cannot fix it.
Could I use the switches of the faulty FK 2001, solder them on this PCB, put it into a Poker II case, add a Teensy Controller and then have my own 60% custom alps board?
Is this possible? Is it that easy?
If so, I would take one.
Does it support ISO layout?
Extra thick pcb will not work with pcb mount stabs. 0.0945" is 2.4mm, which is greater than the 1.64mm limit in this pictureShow Image(http://puu.sh/eJTKr/9a20b44ee6.jpg)
I vaguely remember reading that the bottom row has limited configurations for Alps. Is this still true? I think I see 1.25-unit mod support but it's hard to tell.
I'm likely in for one.
Bummer about the case, I don't see many people wanting to hack into their aluminum cases.
Why not move the teensy to the left a bit, so we avoid problems 1 and 3?
Alps switches are supported on every position above the bottom row. The bottom row has Alps support only for ANSI (1.25x3, 6.25, 1.25x4). You should be able to see this better on the attachment to this post. I could change the Alps bottom-row to Winkeyless, but would have to lose ANSI. I am willing to make this change if people are actually going to build using Alps in that configuration.
Third, the USB connector on the Teensy is (a) in the wrong place and (b) too tall. Making a careful cut-out for the USB connector would solve both problems, although the resulting exit would be on the right-hand side of the case. For sure there is NOT room to route a right-angle USB cable from the Teensy to the normal exit on the back.The cable coming out of the right-hand side would be really bothersome :(
I can add provisions for a USB connector onto the PCB as on the JD40, but it would require removing the USB connector from the Teensy and hard-wiring from the Teensy to the PCB for that option to work. (I can probably even make it possible to re-use the USB connector from the Teensy.
Alps switches are supported on every position above the bottom row. The bottom row has Alps support only for ANSI (1.25x3, 6.25, 1.25x4). You should be able to see this better on the attachment to this post. I could change the Alps bottom-row to Winkeyless, but would have to lose ANSI. I am willing to make this change if people are actually going to build using Alps in that configuration.
better is the enemy of good enough.
[...]
Therefore, I think I would much prefer to make the SD-60 as originally designed
FYI, the Poker II added a screw mounting hole centered between the 'G' and 'H' keys.
My purpose in making this particular board was to get a 60% configurable and programmable PCB done and shipped quickly.
Also, I see the matrix ended up 14x5 instead of 15x5. I am a fan :)
Just a random thought: Is it really worth making the PCB Poker case compatible if it won't find in something like a TEX/Pexon style case without modification? I for one wouldn't be able to have a case milled down.
Was the issue regarding the extra PCB width and Cherry PCB mount stabs every addressed? thanks
Thanks for the continued interest!
Quick update: I have ordered some 0.093" PCB material (thank you eBay!) and will test-fit some Cherry PCB stabs. I don't think it is critical for this board, but I really want to be able to make the GH-122/154 really robust.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
Thanks for the continued interest!
Quick update: I have ordered some 0.093" PCB material (thank you eBay!) and will test-fit some Cherry PCB stabs. I don't think it is critical for this board, but I really want to be able to make the GH-122/154 really robust.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
That's a lot of first-round orders. Is it worth it to consider a different PCB source, or are we not up to such significant orders? Or maybe the multiples-of-ten scale from OshPark, or something?
I'm still in favor of thicker material, FWIW.
I've been working on the JD45, but fiddling with the large-scale layout of the SD-60 while I do that.
I have not done careful measurements yet, but it appears that placing the Teensy underneath the I and O keys would allow the PCB to be used in stock Poker cases. Including feeding the USB cable out the left-rear through the existing hole.
Better remains the enemy of good enough, so I don't know if I will do this for the first run. But I might.
Expressions of interest would help me decide.
Thanks!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Sig auto-typed by my GH36 LH keypad.
I'm waiting for gh36 as well -- hoping to purchase at least five of those boards.
I'm waiting for gh36 as well -- hoping to purchase at least five of those boards.
Are you kidding me?
I was targeting 2, just one pair for use. What use do you have for 5? :p
Either way works, I'm fine with the teensy under I/O, even if it left me with a fixed cable.
I second what JD said. I know it's more work, but it would make it more accessible to people.
Nice Ron! I'm in for two!
Oh, anyone in the US ordering teensies for this? I need a proxy for the teensies and hoping to consolidate shipping with the PCB. :D
Nice Ron! I'm in for two!
Oh, anyone in the US ordering teensies for this? I need a proxy for the teensies and hoping to consolidate shipping with the PCB. :D
If Ron doesn't want to do the Teensies along with the PCB, I'd be willing to run a GB for them. I know I have one somewhere, but I can't find it.
Nice Ron! I'm in for two!
Oh, anyone in the US ordering teensies for this? I need a proxy for the teensies and hoping to consolidate shipping with the PCB. :D
If Ron doesn't want to do the Teensies along with the PCB, I'd be willing to run a GB for them. I know I have one somewhere, but I can't find it.
Hope I'm not too late for the party, but I'm in for two. :thumb:
Quick question, are all PCB's that has teensy NKRO?
[EDIT: Sorry for much noobness]
Quick question, are all PCB's that has teensy NKRO?
[EDIT: Sorry for much noobness]
It depends on the PCB to some extent, but this one (and pretty much all of them) should support NKRO. Simply, diodes + matrix = NKRO (6KRO). The full answer is a little more complex than that.
I thought I posted in this thread requesting a board. Must have dreamed it! :( If available I would like at least one if not two PCB's!It's been a little over a month since he had updated the thread, it's likely that none have been produced so you're probably fine.
If this is plug and play ready for Matias keycaps && stabs I'm in for two.
I have no experience with Matias keycaps or stabilizers, but I used the Matias spec for the switch mounts. Someone with more Alps knowledge will be better able to answer this questions than I am.
Does someone know if the PCB has support for ISO enter? The OP says clearly ANSI support, but the question is just in case it is feasible.
The comment of the OP on ISO support is here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=67815.msg1625889#msg1625889).
Does someone know if the PCB has support for ISO enter? The OP says clearly ANSI support, but the question is just in case it is feasible.
ISO enter needs a switch hole between rows 2 and 3, I don't see one in the mock up :(
According to reply #104 there is support for ISO-enter but only for MX, not AlpsDoes someone know if the PCB has support for ISO enter? The OP says clearly ANSI support, but the question is just in case it is feasible.
ISO enter needs a switch hole between rows 2 and 3, I don't see one in the mock up :(
I'd love to have ISO support. But, maybe it is not feasible.
I've been clamoring for this for months, I think I'm in the first 10 to express interest, but sadly I believe it is on hold until some of his other projects are finished.
All right. I just went back and re-read both threads and looked at the PCB layout in its current state of design. It appears that this whole thing got stalled when I began to modify the design to support existing Poker cases. That meant moving the Teensy, so all the traces were impacted. Poker case compatibility does nothing to assist in making this a re-useable component of the GH-122/152 design, and Swill has got his pancake-design tool nearly complete. (I have no idea what that tool can do for Alps-lovers, but the SD-60 does and will support Alps.)Best news I have read in a long time here! Thank you!
So, having said that, and judging from the level of interest continuing to be shown, I'll spend some time re-learning the layout and add this project to my list.
Poker case compatibility is likely to be a victim of a re-start.
My JD45 proto case and backlighting are done, the GH36 Beta layout is out for review, so I could potentially spin the SD-60 back up quite quickly.
TL;DR I could probably launch this again quickly if I abandon Poker-case compatibility. So I will.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.
I'm still on the fence about differentiation from the GH-60. One differing feature is the 100% through-hole (no SMD) design. Another is the Alps support. And the multiple bottom row options.
But in all of my previous designs, I've had to make the case thicker than I'd like because of the Teensy USB socket. But today I saw this detail of the Massdrop Ergodox, and wondered if placing the Teensy on the top surface ABOVE the top row work work for people.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/J8E8DLK.jpg)
Detail from Ergodox from Massdrop.
Please comment!
Thanks,
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my JD45 keyboard.
Please comment!
Ron, quick question:
This PCB still will have mount holes, correct? Just not poker compatible? Are the plans for mount holes still the 3x3 matrix of red holes from your image on page 2 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=67815.msg1601621#msg1601621)?
bump
Yes I'm aware of that, but this is the first that I have seen Ron active on here in some time and I think this project is an awesome effort. So I bumped it.bump
That's one hell of a bump.
The OP has not posted since may, last year, bumps will not change that, if he is not interested, there is no reason for this thread to be bumped if it has no leader.Thank you for that explanation, I'm aware of how things work; however Ron seems to have been busy as of late and has just recently returned to the forum, commenting about his gh36 case and his administration of the gh60 gb. I chose to bump this, as he had made significant progress and 8 was wondering if it still remained in his queue of projects, along with the sd122 and even his 60% model m. He has a ton of talent so I took this opportunity to alert him to interest in his work.
The OP has not posted since may, last year, bumps will not change that, if he is not interested, there is no reason for this thread to be bumped if it has no leader.