Do you think this layout is achievable with your pcb?
Thanks.
will there be an iso front plate? (split left shift)
will there be an iso front plate? (split left shift)
The plate already supports ISO, look at the universal Enter cluster and wide left shift cutout
Do you think this layout is achievable with your pcb?
Thanks.
Do you think this layout is achievable with your pcb?
Thanks.
you and i have the same taste, you should probably look for iss 62 board https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=81548.0 . 60% with arrow keys.
Also, does this come with resistors and diodes pre-soldered, included or not at all?
Are the keycaps in the pictures dye-sub or printed pbt?
To hell with my never ending questions! Ordered!
To hell with my never ending questions! Ordered!
:)) I like your style!
I also joined here. When does this gb end?
Hey I put in my order yesterday but I changed my mind on the color of the LEDs. Is there a way you can just edit that or should I just resubmit another response?
How are sandwhich cases held together without aving nuts and bolts showing?
i think i got in on this lol.
i didnt get any kind of confirmation or anything.
i went through the steps last week and still havnt gotten any confirmation. should i have?
thanks.
Hey guys,
I'll be sending out invoices on Monday.
I just ordered but forgot to ask whether you can assist in assembling it? Haha.. is it easy to build one? I haven't done any sorts of soldering in my life!! :D
PM'ed.
I just ordered but forgot to ask whether you can assist in assembling it? Haha.. is it easy to build one? I haven't done any sorts of soldering in my life!! :D
PM'ed.
You only need to solder switches if I am correct, unless you ordered switch LEDs. Diodes and resistors and rgb LEDs are pre-soldering to my knowledge.
How are sandwhich cases held together without aving nuts and bolts showing?
On these? They are showing. You can see the screw holes in the picture. If you don't want any screwholes at all, use magnets like the Magneto75: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/4wvewe/magneto75_screw_free_keyboard/
You only need to solder switches if I am correct, unless you ordered switch LEDs. Diodes and resistors and rgb LEDs are pre-soldering to my knowledge.I did order LEDs. Now, I'm worried haha... :(
I agree. The first time I had ever soldered in my life was my previous keyboard, which needed switches and diodes. It was done in less that 1 1/2 hours.You only need to solder switches if I am correct, unless you ordered switch LEDs. Diodes and resistors and rgb LEDs are pre-soldering to my knowledge.I did order LEDs. Now, I'm worried haha... :(
That only means that you also have to solder LEDs. It's not harder to do than the switches since both are through hole components.
Interested, please keep the form to this weeks, my paypal account not registered yet :D
Have any invoices been sent out yet?
I got in on this through the website. I know it said shipping in about 2.5 months (November/December?), but I was just wondering if we had any update on a more focused production/ship date? Just curious. I'm very excited to get this kit.
Any plan on round 2, if so when?Round one is still ~2+ months from shipping...
Thx in advance!
Any plan on round 2, if so when?Round one is still ~2+ months from shipping...
Thx in advance!
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Hey guys!
Sorry I haven't been updating this thread much. The orders have already been placed a while ago. Right now the plates have already been completed, but now we're waiting on the acrylic midpieces and PCB's. There's a week long holiday in China starting Oct 1 so that adds a lot of time to the production time. Right now we're looking at an Oct 31 ship date.
Also, I'll try and get some pics to post of all the completed plates :p
Hey guys!
Sorry I haven't been updating this thread much. The orders have already been placed a while ago. Right now the plates have already been completed, but now we're waiting on the acrylic midpieces and PCB's. There's a week long holiday in China starting Oct 1 so that adds a lot of time to the production time. Right now we're looking at an Oct 31 ship date.
Also, I'll try and get some pics to post of all the completed plates :p
Patiently waiting :'(
I wasn't aware of this group buy, but I picked up one of the extra PCBs off their website. I plan on putting this in a TEX acrylic case. Hope it fits. I emailed support but they never answered me :(Standard 60 should most definitely fit :D
Any plan on round 2, if so when?
Thx in advance!
I wasn't aware of this group buy, but I picked up one of the extra PCBs off their website. I plan on putting this in a TEX acrylic case. Hope it fits. I emailed support but they never answered me :(
I wasn't aware of this group buy, but I picked up one of the extra PCBs off their website. I plan on putting this in a TEX acrylic case. Hope it fits. I emailed support but they never answered me :(
The mounting holes will definitely fit, but might have to do some clearencing on the case because the led's might hit it in a few spots.
anyone get shipping notifications or anything?
im trying to wait patiently but not doing a good job at it lol.
anyone get shipping notifications or anything?
im trying to wait patiently but not doing a good job at it lol.
Last I saw on one of his Reddit posts a month back (or so) was that he was hoping to get stuff shipped to him by end of October, but that was a very loose unofficial date. Once he receives the shipment, there's sorting, label printing, shipping, etc. I would give it another few weeks at the very least. Such is the GB life unfortunately.
In reply to a /r/MK comment earlier this month, /u/SentrantPC said that the S60-X RGB kits were going to ship to him on October 31st (https://np.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/583x36/help_sentraq_purchase_issues/d8xalkl/?context=3).
PCB's just finished up, here's a quick pic of one. https://i.imgur.com/hsCWfjR.jpg
Will ship to me very soon
PCB's just finished up, here's a quick pic of one. https://i.imgur.com/hsCWfjR.jpg
Will ship to me very soon
PCB's just finished up, here's a quick pic of one. https://i.imgur.com/hsCWfjR.jpg
Will ship to me very soon
Thanks for the update. I bought only the PCB from the web site after the GB closed. I also paid for a universal plate and some sip sockets several weeks ago and still don't have an update on that order. Is everything just backed up?
Have the PCBs shipped to you yet?
Have the PCBs shipped to you yet?
Should come tomorrow assuming DHL works after Thanksgiving!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/W8upq9i.jpg)
Have the PCBs shipped to you yet?
Should come tomorrow assuming DHL works after Thanksgiving!Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/W8upq9i.jpg)
Here's to hoping all was delivered and orders are sorting + shipping soon :)
Hey guys, I received the packages. Everything looks nice so far, but they made the acrylic piece clear instead of frosted. They've already started making the correct ones but it'll take 5 days to produce and around 3 days to get to me.
If any of you would prefer a clear midpiece, PM me. If you do switch, they will still ship around the same time so this is for people who preferred clear over frosted from the start. I'll upload some pics of the clear acrylic on an assembled board soon + pics of all the parts!
Hey guys, I received the packages. Everything looks nice so far, but they made the acrylic piece clear instead of frosted. They've already started making the correct ones but it'll take 5 days to produce and around 3 days to get to me.
If any of you would prefer a clear midpiece, PM me. If you do switch, they will still ship around the same time so this is for people who preferred clear over frosted from the start. I'll upload some pics of the clear acrylic on an assembled board soon + pics of all the parts!
Any chance we can keep the extra one? I'll bet some of us might be willing to pay for an extra option here.It's always nice to have options. ;)
Any chance we can keep the extra one? I'll bet some of us might be willing to pay for an extra option here.
Hey guys here's some photos of the keyboard with the clear acrylic piece (photos are a bit blurry because my phone's camera sucks). If you guys prefer this look to the original frosted look, then send me a PM and I'll switch your order. Some of you guys were wondering if you could just get both pieces for an additional price, so if you wanted to do that it'd be $5.
https://imgur.com/a/xHeIW
Do you have an updated shipping date?
Hey guys,
I'm just waiting for the replacement acrylic pieces to come. I think with the increased shipping volume with the holidays it's taking a bit longer. I'll get these out as soon as they come.
Also, for those who messaged me about getting both pieces, I'll be sending invoices soon.
Sorry about the delay guys..
Hey guys,
I'm just waiting for the replacement acrylic pieces to come. I think with the increased shipping volume with the holidays it's taking a bit longer. I'll get these out as soon as they come.
Also, for those who messaged me about getting both pieces, I'll be sending invoices soon.
Sorry about the delay guys..
Do we have a time estimate, within 1-3 weeks?
Hey guys,
I'm just waiting for the replacement acrylic pieces to come. I think with the increased shipping volume with the holidays it's taking a bit longer. I'll get these out as soon as they come.
Also, for those who messaged me about getting both pieces, I'll be sending invoices soon.
Sorry about the delay guys..
Do we have a time estimate, within 1-3 weeks?
The package was already shipped via DHL Express which usually takes 3 days from China.
The bulk shipment of frosted acrylic pieces from the manufacturer.
Any updates on when our orders will be shipped out?
Any updates on when our orders will be shipped out?
Would love to hear updates as well
Just received the correct parts. I'll ship them out via Priority tomorrow which should be in time for Christmas for those in the US.
Just received the correct parts. I'll ship them out via Priority tomorrow which should be in time for Christmas for those in the US.Music to our ears. Can't wait! :thumb:
Just received the correct parts. I'll ship them out via Priority tomorrow which should be in time for Christmas for those in the US.
I have a feeling we won't be seeing our kits until mid January.Why mid January? I don't think we will ever seem them to be honest.
I have a feeling we won't be seeing our kits until mid January.Why mid January? I don't think we will ever seem them to be honest.
I have a feeling we won't be seeing our kits until mid January.Why mid January? I don't think we will ever seem them to be honest.
Well it seems like we are just getting a run around. He has stopped responding to inquiries about the kits and nobody has any idea what the current situation is. I don't want to be pessimistic but this just doesn't look good from the buyers perspective.I have a feeling we won't be seeing our kits until mid January.Why mid January? I don't think we will ever seem them to be honest.
Why do you say that?
Well it seems like we are just getting a run around. He has stopped responding to inquiries about the kits and nobody has any idea what the current situation is. I don't want to be pessimistic but this just doesn't look good from the buyers perspective.I have a feeling we won't be seeing our kits until mid January.Why mid January? I don't think we will ever seem them to be honest.
Why do you say that?
Yeah, I got mine today, and I'm in MN.
Yeah I know but we never got any shipping confirmation so idk what's going on. This is my first group buy so this is new to me.Well it seems like we are just getting a run around. He has stopped responding to inquiries about the kits and nobody has any idea what the current situation is. I don't want to be pessimistic but this just doesn't look good from the buyers perspective.I have a feeling we won't be seeing our kits until mid January.Why mid January? I don't think we will ever seem them to be honest.
Why do you say that?
I thought he said on the 20th that he was shipping parts... no? It's about 17 posts up from here
Yeah, I got mine today, and I'm in MN.
Yeah, I got mine today, and I'm in MN.Good news! Mind showing us pictures?
I understand the initial delays, but I don't get how at this point, we haven't been told of any thing since a many days ago. Just pop in once a day and say something. Even if it's just more delays. just ****ing say something.
Hey guys sorry I haven’t been communicating that well. I’ve been super busy because of the holidays and my personal life the past few days and haven’t stayed on top of this. I also wasn’t able to get as many as I’d like shipped because of this.
I know there were several delays with this GB, which were just exacerbated by the proximity to the holiday season. The rest of the kits will start shipping on Monday, not next year or mid-january. It may take until Tuesday to get everything shipped due to the amount of packages.
Happy Holidays, and sorry again.
Hey guys sorry I haven’t been communicating that well. I’ve been super busy because of the holidays and my personal life the past few days and haven’t stayed on top of this. I also wasn’t able to get as many as I’d like shipped because of this.
I know there were several delays with this GB, which were just exacerbated by the proximity to the holiday season. The rest of the kits will start shipping on Monday, not next year or mid-january. It may take until Tuesday to get everything shipped due to the amount of packages.
Happy Holidays, and sorry again.
Who will the international orders be shipped with?
Who will the international orders be shipped with?
USPS First Class Int'l. Yours is in Vancouver already. I'll PM you tracking. Btw, for others whose orders shipped, I'll PM you tracking as well.
Who will the international orders be shipped with?
USPS First Class Int'l. Yours is in Vancouver already. I'll PM you tracking. Btw, for others whose orders shipped, I'll PM you tracking as well.
Will You be giving out shipping confirmations/shipping info when the rest of the boards ship? And PLEASE in the future do updates more frequently when there are delays.
Who will the international orders be shipped with?
USPS First Class Int'l. Yours is in Vancouver already. I'll PM you tracking. Btw, for others whose orders shipped, I'll PM you tracking as well.
Will You be giving out shipping confirmations/shipping info when the rest of the boards ship? And PLEASE in the future do updates more frequently when there are delays.
Hey guys sorry I haven’t been communicating that well. I’ve been super busy because of the holidays and my personal life the past few days and haven’t stayed on top of this. I also wasn’t able to get as many as I’d like shipped because of this.
I know there were several delays with this GB, which were just exacerbated by the proximity to the holiday season. The rest of the kits will start shipping on Monday, not next year or mid-january. It may take until Tuesday to get everything shipped due to the amount of packages.
Happy Holidays, and sorry again.
Any ETA for when the pcb will be available through the Sentraq store?
Any ETA for when the pcb will be available through the Sentraq store?
I think it was just a group buy
Any ETA for when the pcb will be available through the Sentraq store?
I think it was just a group buy
Hey I got my board a couple of days ago and finished it today. I was wondering what software I should use to edit the keymap, led's and underglow.
Thanks, I don't know how I missed that in the OPHey I got my board a couple of days ago and finished it today. I was wondering what software I should use to edit the keymap, led's and underglow.
Qmk or tmk.
This will be fun... If I hit any key from the Shift row, it sets off the whole column. Ugh.
Any updates on the final shipping orders?
I saw the updates with some of them shipping,, but i never got any word back on info for receiving that extra acrylic piece....... Is that just simply not an option anymore?
Any updates on the final shipping orders?
I'm working on packing up orders as I type this.
C:\Users\Matt\Desktop\qmk1\keyboards\s60-x>make custom
Making s60-x with keymap custom
avr-gcc.exe (GCC) 4.8.2 20131010 (prerelease)
Copyright (C) 2013 Free Software Foundation, Inc.
This is free software; see the source for copying conditions. There is NO
warranty; not even for MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.
Compiling: keyboards/s60-x/s60-x.c [OK]
Compiling: keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c In file included from keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c:4:0:
keyboards/s60-x/s60-x.h:64:5: error: 'KC_BL_ON' undeclared here (not in a function)
{ KC_##K20, KC_##K21, KC_##K22, KC_##K23, KC_##K24, KC_##K25, KC_##K26, KC_##K27, KC_##K28, KC_##K29, KC_##K2A, KC_##K2B, KC_##K2C, KC_##K2D, KC_NO }, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c:130:5: note: in expansion of macro 'LEGACY_KEYMAP'
LEGACY_KEYMAP( TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, NO, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/s60-x.h:64:15: error: 'KC_BL_OFF' undeclared here (not in a function)
{ KC_##K20, KC_##K21, KC_##K22, KC_##K23, KC_##K24, KC_##K25, KC_##K26, KC_##K27, KC_##K28, KC_##K29, KC_##K2A, KC_##K2B, KC_##K2C, KC_##K2D, KC_NO }, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c:130:5: note: in expansion of macro 'LEGACY_KEYMAP'
LEGACY_KEYMAP( TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, NO, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/s60-x.h:64:25: error: 'KC_BL_DEC' undeclared here (not in a function)
{ KC_##K20, KC_##K21, KC_##K22, KC_##K23, KC_##K24, KC_##K25, KC_##K26, KC_##K27, KC_##K28, KC_##K29, KC_##K2A, KC_##K2B, KC_##K2C, KC_##K2D, KC_NO }, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c:130:5: note: in expansion of macro 'LEGACY_KEYMAP'
LEGACY_KEYMAP( TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, NO, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/s60-x.h:64:35: error: 'KC_BL_INC' undeclared here (not in a function)
{ KC_##K20, KC_##K21, KC_##K22, KC_##K23, KC_##K24, KC_##K25, KC_##K26, KC_##K27, KC_##K28, KC_##K29, KC_##K2A, KC_##K2B, KC_##K2C, KC_##K2D, KC_NO }, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c:130:5: note: in expansion of macro 'LEGACY_KEYMAP'
LEGACY_KEYMAP( TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, NO, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/s60-x.h:64:45: error: 'KC_BL_STEP' undeclared here (not in a function)
{ KC_##K20, KC_##K21, KC_##K22, KC_##K23, KC_##K24, KC_##K25, KC_##K26, KC_##K27, KC_##K28, KC_##K29, KC_##K2A, KC_##K2B, KC_##K2C, KC_##K2D, KC_NO }, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c:130:5: note: in expansion of macro 'LEGACY_KEYMAP'
LEGACY_KEYMAP( TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, NO, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/s60-x.h:64:55: error: 'KC_BL_TOGG' undeclared here (not in a function)
{ KC_##K20, KC_##K21, KC_##K22, KC_##K23, KC_##K24, KC_##K25, KC_##K26, KC_##K27, KC_##K28, KC_##K29, KC_##K2A, KC_##K2B, KC_##K2C, KC_##K2D, KC_NO }, \
^
keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.c:130:5: note: in expansion of macro 'LEGACY_KEYMAP'
LEGACY_KEYMAP( TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, TRNS, NO, \
^
[ERRORS]
|
|
|
tmk_core/rules.mk:352: recipe for target '.build/obj_s60-x_custom/keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.o' failed
make[1]: *** [.build/obj_s60-x_custom/keyboards/s60-x/keymaps/custom/keymap.o] Error 1
Make finished with errors
../../Makefile:490: recipe for target 'custom' failed
make: *** [custom] Error 1
C:\Users\Matt\Desktop\qmk1\keyboards\s60-x>
Here's the firmware that fixes the backspace button. The other S60-X firmwares are for the old keyboard without LED's.Awesome!
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0834/6257/files/S60-X_FW.hex?8141681582128064533
Here's the firmware that fixes the backspace button. The other S60-X firmwares are for the old keyboard without LED's.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0834/6257/files/S60-X_FW.hex?8141681582128064533
Try this out, https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB
anyone have details of how to flash firmware on this?
very new to building keyboards.
got it soldered together just fine its looking dope though i have no clue how to use this thing. no idea how to change the RGB colors of the underglow nor are my in key LEDs working. to be honest im a little bummed there isnt more info out there about these things.
anyway i have the backspace button issue and would like to atleast flash the firmware to fix that. so any help much appreciated.
thanks guys this is exactly what i needed!
though my in key LEDs are not working so ill have to look over that.
also im getting an error when trying to flash.
when i go to communication and select usb it says AtLibUsbDfu.dll not found. click okay then says Could not load dynamic library.
gonna google some more and see what i can find most of it is audrino related.
but if anyone knows how to fix it id appreciate the help.
You have to make it look for an atmega 32u4.
The led controls are in the new firmware. Not sure about stock firmware.
You have to make it look for an atmega 32u4.
The led controls are in the new firmware. Not sure about stock firmware.
that would explain why they are not working lol.
i have selected the device ATmega32U4.
then after that im selecting the connection and get the error.
still no luck. when i push the button windows makes the hardware disconnecting sound. if i hold it for 5 seconds it will make the sound then make the reconnecting sound. neither seem to make and difference in flip.
i cant tell if there is an issue with the software or the keyboard or me lol.
im running win10. tried the software in compatibility for win8 and win7 still nothing.
googling is showing people having driver issues causing this behavior. though i cant get the driver to install as other have (other are doing this when working with audrinos not keyboards specifically)
oooooohhhh i may have found the issue. i have 64 bit windows. i may possibly need 32bit to run this software.
I use 64bit windows 10 just fine. You want it to make the disconnect sound, because then it is in programming mode and windows doesn't recognize it as a device, so it doesn't play the reconnect sound. Once you have pressed the button, select USB connection, and load your hex file. Press the run button, and then the Start Program button to reconnect it.
ah thanks. my bad on the quotes ill go fix the post so they dont look so bad.huh. I can't seem to get my led's to turn on at all :(
so got the firmware flashed.
everything seems cool. after it first flashed the in key LEDs came on. but then after unplugging the keyboard and plugging back in they do not work.
i tried flashing again and they still dont work. wont be a huge deal if i cant get them atleast i have a backspace key now lol.
stand corrected. they where just all the way dim.
ah thanks. my bad on the quotes ill go fix the post so they dont look so bad.huh. I can't seem to get my led's to turn on at all :(
so got the firmware flashed.
everything seems cool. after it first flashed the in key LEDs came on. but then after unplugging the keyboard and plugging back in they do not work.
i tried flashing again and they still dont work. wont be a huge deal if i cant get them atleast i have a backspace key now lol.
stand corrected. they where just all the way dim.
Yeah I got the new firmware that fixed the backspace but the in switch led's just won't come on.
yep, at least I think so... :-[
Welp I'm smart. I kept hitting the =+ key... Oh well I got them working now! Thanks :thumb:
So I went to make my own firmware, and I did not modify the RGB layer, but I can now not switch the mode that the RGB lights are in.
Any ideas?
I should mention that all of the other RGB controls still work.
So I went to make my own firmware, and I did not modify the RGB layer, but I can now not switch the mode that the RGB lights are in.
Any ideas?
I should mention that all of the other RGB controls still work.
where can i find how to make changes to the firmware?
i have just like 2 or 3 small changes id like to make feel like it would be simple but dont know how or even where to start.
I'm having a lot of trouble getting this keyboard to work consistently. Sometimes everything will work perfectly fine, but if I leave it plugged in overnight I wake up to it having sent a few thousand enter keystrokes and some keys won't work at all, while others will send their entire column and then get stuck.
I'm worried that I've damaged the PCB somehow, but I've checked over all the solder joints a few times and they all seem reasonable to me. The columns that get stuck sending and the keys that don't work change every so often, also.
Is it possible that there's a bug in the firmware? (I'm using the firmware (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware) from earlier in this thread). Could my PCB have been defective? Or have I damaged it or just soldered some joint incorrectly?
Thanks!
Tested both of my PCB's, it looks like in one of them the escape key doesn't work. I flashed it with the new hex and still nothing. I looked at the surface, comparing it to the other one and everything looks like it is in place. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Or am I just going to have to return it.
I'm having a lot of trouble getting this keyboard to work consistently. Sometimes everything will work perfectly fine, but if I leave it plugged in overnight I wake up to it having sent a few thousand enter keystrokes and some keys won't work at all, while others will send their entire column and then get stuck.
I'm worried that I've damaged the PCB somehow, but I've checked over all the solder joints a few times and they all seem reasonable to me. The columns that get stuck sending and the keys that don't work change every so often, also.
Is it possible that there's a bug in the firmware? (I'm using the firmware (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware) from earlier in this thread). Could my PCB have been defective? Or have I damaged it or just soldered some joint incorrectly?
Thanks!Tested both of my PCB's, it looks like in one of them the escape key doesn't work. I flashed it with the new hex and still nothing. I looked at the surface, comparing it to the other one and everything looks like it is in place. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Or am I just going to have to return it.
Can you email me? info@sentraq.com
Hoping these issues are isolated. Anyone have positive feedback? Speak up
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Got mine. Had the firmware-based Backspace issue that was easily resolved after following the instructions on this thread (restarting, adding device with drivers in the Flip directory, and then communicating via USB after pressing button on back of PCB). I experienced some strange LED issues, some lights were shorting from the LED leads touching the bottom of the case (my fault for only having bulky wire cutters), and at one point, an entire single row of backlight LEDs wouldn't turn off. After trimming the leads as much as I could and hitting every key aggressively out of frustration, the issue resolved itself.
Would love to upload a layout with arrow keys using the menu modifier or even volume controls on + and - maybe? If I figure out how to make a layout, I'll put it up here.
Every control works (LED controls for me are menu \ to turn on and off, [ to lower, ] to brighten), and the keyboard feels great. Very happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Got mine. Had the firmware-based Backspace issue that was easily resolved after following the instructions on this thread (restarting, adding device with drivers in the Flip directory, and then communicating via USB after pressing button on back of PCB). I experienced some strange LED issues, some lights were shorting from the LED leads touching the bottom of the case (my fault for only having bulky wire cutters), and at one point, an entire single row of backlight LEDs wouldn't turn off. After trimming the leads as much as I could and hitting every key aggressively out of frustration, the issue resolved itself.
Would love to upload a layout with arrow keys using the menu modifier or even volume controls on + and - maybe? If I figure out how to make a layout, I'll put it up here.
Every control works (LED controls for me are menu \ to turn on and off, [ to lower, ] to brighten), and the keyboard feels great. Very happy with it!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
if you could do the arrow keys using the menu modifier plus a Delete key with the same modifier. so like menu+ backspace seems to be common. that would be sweet as those are the only 2 things id like added to my keyboard.
http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/
seems to be good place to make a layout.
also super jelly of your keycaps.
just seems to be missing the PCB.
Yeah, there is no sign of any PCB in the package. What's in the photo is what came in the box.just seems to be missing the PCB.
Wait. What?
Yeah, there is no sign of any PCB in the package. What's in the photo is what came in the box.just seems to be missing the PCB.
Wait. What?
I'm just trying to keep a positive spin on it after all the delays and radio silence in this GB. Couldn't help but chuckle when I saw there wasn't a PCB, just when I thought things were all set. I'm sending an email about it once I'm back home. Here's hoping I can get sorted.
Is it possible to program patterns via qmk/tmk for inswitch LEDs on this board?
Is it possible to program patterns via qmk/tmk for inswitch LEDs on this board?
Not that I know of, but better to ask on the olkb reddit. IIRC it is either all on or all off.
//edit// looks like I'm wrong, there is apparently breathing. Check out the experimental keymap in the Planck directory, and the PVC layout in the Atomic directory. I added it to my keymap, seems to work.
Is it possible to program patterns via qmk/tmk for inswitch LEDs on this board?
Not that I know of, but better to ask on the olkb reddit. IIRC it is either all on or all off.
As a side note, by that do you mean that a LED indicator for caps lock would be possible?
//edit// looks like I'm wrong, there is apparently breathing. Check out the experimental keymap in the Planck directory, and the PVC layout in the Atomic directory. I added it to my keymap, seems to work.
Yeah I saw the breathing mode, but I was hoping to get some patterns in there based on key presses.... Looks like most PCBs are wired in a series, except for the lock keys
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Okay, so you got that one to work, but one PCB is still having issues?Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Haha, that's embarrassing. I'll send one over tomorrow.
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Okay, so you got that one to work, but one PCB is still having issues?Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Haha, that's embarrassing. I'll send one over tomorrow.
The PCB that I already built was having firmware issues but that was fixed. The only problem with it still is 2 of the smd rgb's don't work. The second PCB that I have not done anything to does not have a functioning escape key.
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Okay, so you got that one to work, but one PCB is still having issues?Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Haha, that's embarrassing. I'll send one over tomorrow.
The PCB that I already built was having firmware issues but that was fixed. The only problem with it still is 2 of the smd rgb's don't work. The second PCB that I have not done anything to does not have a functioning escape key.
Check for a busted diode on the ESC key? I had a busted one on my D key that i had to fix.
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Okay, so you got that one to work, but one PCB is still having issues?Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Haha, that's embarrassing. I'll send one over tomorrow.
The PCB that I already built was having firmware issues but that was fixed. The only problem with it still is 2 of the smd rgb's don't work. The second PCB that I have not done anything to does not have a functioning escape key.
Check for a busted diode on the ESC key? I had a busted one on my D key that i had to fix.
I will once my multimeter comes in, any advice on the smd leds? Weird that two of them went out, almost makes me think a trace went bad.
Also where should I get the diodes from?
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Okay, so you got that one to work, but one PCB is still having issues?Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Haha, that's embarrassing. I'll send one over tomorrow.
The PCB that I already built was having firmware issues but that was fixed. The only problem with it still is 2 of the smd rgb's don't work. The second PCB that I have not done anything to does not have a functioning escape key.
Check for a busted diode on the ESC key? I had a busted one on my D key that i had to fix.
I will once my multimeter comes in, any advice on the smd leds? Weird that two of them went out, almost makes me think a trace went bad.
Also where should I get the diodes from?
I meant visually busted. Mine lost the black shell and was cracked in half.
Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Okay, so you got that one to work, but one PCB is still having issues?Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Haha, that's embarrassing. I'll send one over tomorrow.
The PCB that I already built was having firmware issues but that was fixed. The only problem with it still is 2 of the smd rgb's don't work. The second PCB that I have not done anything to does not have a functioning escape key.
Check for a busted diode on the ESC key? I had a busted one on my D key that i had to fix.
I will once my multimeter comes in, any advice on the smd leds? Weird that two of them went out, almost makes me think a trace went bad.
Also where should I get the diodes from?
I meant visually busted. Mine lost the black shell and was cracked in half.
I meant where to buy some fresh ones :P. My diode looks fine, visually it isn't cracked.
No worries, thanks mate. Glad to get that sorted so soon.Fixed my led issue (Though the 2 RGB leds still dont work). But now my keyboard isn't working properly. I hit ctrl and it pulls up the Active Directory out of all things. Most keys won't register anything, other than A which will register as a capital H. I'm assuming this is a firmware issue since this happened after I tried reflashing it to see if the RGB would work. I'll go to bed on this, hope everyone has a Happy New Year :).
This is a hardware issue. The firmware worked just fine for me, and it wouldn't cause those issues. If anything, check to make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case.
Definitely a firmware issue, its almost impossible to short with through hole soldering. Even with the case removed the same issues arise. Anyone have a different hex that I could use?
Edit: Got it to work by flashing other random hex's and then flashing the original one back on it.
Okay, so you got that one to work, but one PCB is still having issues?Order #1237 here. Package arrived and everything looks good, just seems to be missing the PCB.
Thanks for including the clear midpiece!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170102/e93c20fe579969b64237d3bfaf7b93da.jpg)
Haha, that's embarrassing. I'll send one over tomorrow.
For arrow keys on all of my keyboards I use left-win and wasd. It is so natural that when I use a keyboard that doesn't have it I end up sending a few windows commands until I realize it. If you make a keyboard-layout-editor of exactly what you want I could make it for you.
//edit//
This is my de-facto keymap (http://www.mediafire.com/file/mlcht8qhfn7m502/keymap.c), and hex (http://www.mediafire.com/file/wocpggml4k58zcd/S60RGB_default.hex) file if anyone wants it.
Quote
For arrow keys on all of my keyboards I use left-win and wasd. It is so natural that when I use a keyboard that doesn't have it I end up sending a few windows commands until I realize it. If you make a keyboard-layout-editor of exactly what you want I could make it for you.
//edit//
This is my de-facto keymap (http://www.mediafire.com/file/mlcht8qhfn7m502/keymap.c), and hex (http://www.mediafire.com/file/wocpggml4k58zcd/S60RGB_default.hex) file if anyone wants it.
if you could do that it would be awesome. basically. just using menu as function to add delete to backspace and arrow directions to wasd. everything else stay the same. (Attachment Link)
Quote
For arrow keys on all of my keyboards I use left-win and wasd. It is so natural that when I use a keyboard that doesn't have it I end up sending a few windows commands until I realize it. If you make a keyboard-layout-editor of exactly what you want I could make it for you.
//edit//
This is my de-facto keymap (http://www.mediafire.com/file/mlcht8qhfn7m502/keymap.c), and hex (http://www.mediafire.com/file/wocpggml4k58zcd/S60RGB_default.hex) file if anyone wants it.
if you could do that it would be awesome. basically. just using menu as function to add delete to backspace and arrow directions to wasd. everything else stay the same. (Attachment Link)
Do you want escape on the FN layer, main layer, or at all? I will do this tomorrow, so lmk by then.
Quote
For arrow keys on all of my keyboards I use left-win and wasd. It is so natural that when I use a keyboard that doesn't have it I end up sending a few windows commands until I realize it. If you make a keyboard-layout-editor of exactly what you want I could make it for you.
//edit//
This is my de-facto keymap (http://www.mediafire.com/file/mlcht8qhfn7m502/keymap.c), and hex (http://www.mediafire.com/file/wocpggml4k58zcd/S60RGB_default.hex) file if anyone wants it.
if you could do that it would be awesome. basically. just using menu as function to add delete to backspace and arrow directions to wasd. everything else stay the same. (Attachment Link)
Do you want escape on the FN layer, main layer, or at all? I will do this tomorrow, so lmk by then.
FN layer would be great. sorry i forgot to add that one.
Tested the diode on the escsape key, seems to have the right voltage (same as the other diodes). Not sure what I should do now.
Quote
For arrow keys on all of my keyboards I use left-win and wasd. It is so natural that when I use a keyboard that doesn't have it I end up sending a few windows commands until I realize it. If you make a keyboard-layout-editor of exactly what you want I could make it for you.
//edit//
This is my de-facto keymap (http://www.mediafire.com/file/mlcht8qhfn7m502/keymap.c), and hex (http://www.mediafire.com/file/wocpggml4k58zcd/S60RGB_default.hex) file if anyone wants it.
if you could do that it would be awesome. basically. just using menu as function to add delete to backspace and arrow directions to wasd. everything else stay the same. (Attachment Link)
Do you want escape on the FN layer, main layer, or at all? I will do this tomorrow, so lmk by then.
FN layer would be great. sorry i forgot to add that one.
Do you want a FN toggle or a momentary (hold to use layer) FN? I will do this when I get home.
Hey guys,fn z for on, x for mode, c, v for color, b, n, for hue, m, , for brightness.
I just built mine today, pretty happy with the quality and how it all turned out, all LEDs work, underglow works. Used the firmware update posted here a few pages back to get the backspace issue resolved too.
Now some questions.
I'm on OSX, and I used QMK Firmware Flasher application (which opens dfu-programmer) to flash the hex file a few pages back. My questions are:
1. How do you control the default underglow? I know you can control LEDs using FN + [ or FN + ] for example, is there similar shortcut for underglow
2. How do you create your own function layers, specifically ones where holding FN is required? Again, I'm on OSX so I'd need someone to point me in the right direction for OSX.
3. Is there ANY other documentation online for this PCB/board?
Cheers!
fn z for on, x for mode, c, v for color, b, n, for hue, m, , for brightness.
brew install dfu-programmerbrew tap osx-cross/avr
brew install avr-libc
make customdfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase(Remember to press the reset button on back before doing this)dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash S60RGB_custom.hexOK,
Managed to set up some custom keymapping on the function layer so I thought I'd share (since I answered my own questions).
Firstly, this guide is for OSX. So if you're like me and prefer to do things on command line then this is for you.
1. Install 'dfu-programmer' via homebrewCode: [Select]brew install dfu-programmer
2. Install homebrew avr so you can compile firmware (https://github.com/osx-cross/homebrew-avr)Code: [Select]brew tap osx-cross/avr
brew install avr-libc
3. Grab the (supposed) latest QMK source for the S60RGB here: https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB
4. Go to this folder https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB/keymaps/default, copy the keymap.c file into another folder in the /keymaps dir called 'custom' for example
5. Make your edits. My particular version was minor, I flipped right CTRL and FN buttons. I added up/left/down/right to WASD, and added audio mute, vol - and vol + to FN+1, FN+2, FN+3. You can use this link https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keycode.txt to find out what all the keycodes are
6. Now compile your firmware withCode: [Select]make custom
7. Next, using dfu-programmer erase the current firmware like so:Code: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase(Remember to press the reset button on back before doing this)
8. Now flash your custom firmwareCode: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash S60RGB_custom.hex
Unplug and replug the board and that should be it. Well, it worked for me.
By the way, I'm a total newb at this, not my first board built, but it is my first proper custom firmware/keymap, so if any of the above can be improved please let me know.
One question I have is how to set more FN 'layers' and how to activate them? What would this look like in a keymap file? I'd also love if vendor would confirm that the above firmware source I linked is in fact the one that the .hex file supplied earlier is made from.
Copy paste another keymap. Look at where the function key on the base map, make another of those keys with #define. See if anything else has that name. Pretty simple.
Copy paste another keymap. Look at where the function key on the base map, make another of those keys with #define. See if anything else has that name. Pretty simple.
I figured it might be something like this. So what you're saying is to activate the second FN layer you would hold the first FN (FN0) key, then also hold whatever you map as FN1 on function layer 0?
You lost me there. Make another function key, it will lead to your second function layer. Your first function key will still go to your first function layer.
So how would I go about changing the code in the keymap file for ISO layouts. I wired my escape key to the left iso shift, but it seems like the github branch you gave us is missing the keymap file for ISO and only has the support for ANSI. Do you have the necessary files that you can push to github?
Also sent my email a while ago and still no response.
So how would I go about changing the code in the keymap file for ISO layouts. I wired my escape key to the left iso shift, but it seems like the github branch you gave us is missing the keymap file for ISO and only has the support for ANSI. Do you have the necessary files that you can push to github?
Also sent my email a while ago and still no response.
The extra key next to shift on iso is set as KC_NO in the keycaps iirc
OK,
Managed to set up some custom keymapping on the function layer so I thought I'd share (since I answered my own questions).
Firstly, this guide is for OSX. So if you're like me and prefer to do things on command line then this is for you.
1. Install 'dfu-programmer' via homebrewCode: [Select]brew install dfu-programmer
2. Install homebrew avr so you can compile firmware (https://github.com/osx-cross/homebrew-avr)Code: [Select]brew tap osx-cross/avr
brew install avr-libc
3. Grab the (supposed) latest QMK source for the S60RGB here: https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB
4. Go to this folder https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB/keymaps/default, copy the keymap.c file into another folder in the /keymaps dir called 'custom' for example
5. Make your edits. My particular version was minor, I flipped right CTRL and FN buttons. I added up/left/down/right to WASD, and added audio mute, vol - and vol + to FN+1, FN+2, FN+3. You can use this link https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keycode.txt to find out what all the keycodes are
6. Now compile your firmware withCode: [Select]make custom
7. Next, using dfu-programmer erase the current firmware like so:Code: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase(Remember to press the reset button on back before doing this)
8. Now flash your custom firmwareCode: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash S60RGB_custom.hex
Unplug and replug the board and that should be it. Well, it worked for me.
By the way, I'm a total newb at this, not my first board built, but it is my first proper custom firmware/keymap, so if any of the above can be improved please let me know.
One question I have is how to set more FN 'layers' and how to activate them? What would this look like in a keymap file? I'd also love if vendor would confirm that the above firmware source I linked is in fact the one that the .hex file supplied earlier is made from.
OK,
Managed to set up some custom keymapping on the function layer so I thought I'd share (since I answered my own questions).
Firstly, this guide is for OSX. So if you're like me and prefer to do things on command line then this is for you.
1. Install 'dfu-programmer' via homebrewCode: [Select]brew install dfu-programmer
2. Install homebrew avr so you can compile firmware (https://github.com/osx-cross/homebrew-avr)Code: [Select]brew tap osx-cross/avr
brew install avr-libc
3. Grab the (supposed) latest QMK source for the S60RGB here: https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB
4. Go to this folder https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB/keymaps/default, copy the keymap.c file into another folder in the /keymaps dir called 'custom' for example
5. Make your edits. My particular version was minor, I flipped right CTRL and FN buttons. I added up/left/down/right to WASD, and added audio mute, vol - and vol + to FN+1, FN+2, FN+3. You can use this link https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/blob/master/tmk_core/doc/keycode.txt to find out what all the keycodes are
6. Now compile your firmware withCode: [Select]make custom
7. Next, using dfu-programmer erase the current firmware like so:Code: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 erase(Remember to press the reset button on back before doing this)
8. Now flash your custom firmwareCode: [Select]dfu-programmer atmega32u4 flash S60RGB_custom.hex
Unplug and replug the board and that should be it. Well, it worked for me.
By the way, I'm a total newb at this, not my first board built, but it is my first proper custom firmware/keymap, so if any of the above can be improved please let me know.
One question I have is how to set more FN 'layers' and how to activate them? What would this look like in a keymap file? I'd also love if vendor would confirm that the above firmware source I linked is in fact the one that the .hex file supplied earlier is made from.
Did all this. Upon using "make custom" in cmd, and in the correct directory of the Makefile, prompt shows "Making S60RGB with keymap custom" and doesn't do anything. No hex file made, nothing.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for all the help on this thread deductivemonkee. Any reason why it may be doing it for longer? It's been over an hour >.<.
May I ask somebody to try to compile my keymap and see if it does it for them?
For my function layer, besides backlight and underglow controls, I have Esc as ~, 1 through 0 being F1-F10, - and = as Volume Down and Up, respectively, Backspace as Delete, Right Shift as Volume Mute, and WASD as arrows. I'll also attach it to post.
I just can't get it to compile =\.
Thanks for all the help on this thread deductivemonkee. Any reason why it may be doing it for longer? It's been over an hour >.<.
May I ask somebody to try to compile my keymap and see if it does it for them?
For my function layer, besides backlight and underglow controls, I have Esc as ~, 1 through 0 being F1-F10, - and = as Volume Down and Up, respectively, Backspace as Delete, Right Shift as Volume Mute, and WASD as arrows. I'll also attach it to post.
I just can't get it to compile =\.
Quote
For arrow keys on all of my keyboards I use left-win and wasd. It is so natural that when I use a keyboard that doesn't have it I end up sending a few windows commands until I realize it. If you make a keyboard-layout-editor of exactly what you want I could make it for you.
//edit//
This is my de-facto keymap (http://www.mediafire.com/file/mlcht8qhfn7m502/keymap.c), and hex (http://www.mediafire.com/file/wocpggml4k58zcd/S60RGB_default.hex) file if anyone wants it.
if you could do that it would be awesome. basically. just using menu as function to add delete to backspace and arrow directions to wasd. everything else stay the same. (Attachment Link)
Do you want escape on the FN layer, main layer, or at all? I will do this tomorrow, so lmk by then.
FN layer would be great. sorry i forgot to add that one.
Do you want a FN toggle or a momentary (hold to use layer) FN? I will do this when I get home.
Quote
For arrow keys on all of my keyboards I use left-win and wasd. It is so natural that when I use a keyboard that doesn't have it I end up sending a few windows commands until I realize it. If you make a keyboard-layout-editor of exactly what you want I could make it for you.
//edit//
This is my de-facto keymap (http://www.mediafire.com/file/mlcht8qhfn7m502/keymap.c), and hex (http://www.mediafire.com/file/wocpggml4k58zcd/S60RGB_default.hex) file if anyone wants it.
if you could do that it would be awesome. basically. just using menu as function to add delete to backspace and arrow directions to wasd. everything else stay the same. (Attachment Link)
Do you want escape on the FN layer, main layer, or at all? I will do this tomorrow, so lmk by then.
FN layer would be great. sorry i forgot to add that one.
Do you want a FN toggle or a momentary (hold to use layer) FN? I will do this when I get home.
hey man sorry it took so long i just now got this flashed onto my board.
its perfect thank you so much this is exactly what i wanted.
Thanks for all the help on this thread deductivemonkee. Any reason why it may be doing it for longer? It's been over an hour >.<.
May I ask somebody to try to compile my keymap and see if it does it for them?
For my function layer, besides backlight and underglow controls, I have Esc as ~, 1 through 0 being F1-F10, - and = as Volume Down and Up, respectively, Backspace as Delete, Right Shift as Volume Mute, and WASD as arrows. I'll also attach it to post.
I just can't get it to compile =\.
Did you make sure to put the keymap.c into a 'custom' subfolder (next to 'default' subfolder) in the S60RGB sub dir?
Thanks for all the help on this thread deductivemonkee. Any reason why it may be doing it for longer? It's been over an hour >.<.
May I ask somebody to try to compile my keymap and see if it does it for them?
For my function layer, besides backlight and underglow controls, I have Esc as ~, 1 through 0 being F1-F10, - and = as Volume Down and Up, respectively, Backspace as Delete, Right Shift as Volume Mute, and WASD as arrows. I'll also attach it to post.
I just can't get it to compile =\.
Did you make sure to put the keymap.c into a 'custom' subfolder (next to 'default' subfolder) in the S60RGB sub dir?
Yes. See attached picture.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for all the help on this thread deductivemonkee. Any reason why it may be doing it for longer? It's been over an hour >.<.
May I ask somebody to try to compile my keymap and see if it does it for them?
For my function layer, besides backlight and underglow controls, I have Esc as ~, 1 through 0 being F1-F10, - and = as Volume Down and Up, respectively, Backspace as Delete, Right Shift as Volume Mute, and WASD as arrows. I'll also attach it to post.
I just can't get it to compile =\.
Did you make sure to put the keymap.c into a 'custom' subfolder (next to 'default' subfolder) in the S60RGB sub dir?
Yes. See attached picture.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the picture. You can't compile with Windows CMD, download mhv avr tools and use that to compile.
Thanks for all the help on this thread deductivemonkee. Any reason why it may be doing it for longer? It's been over an hour >.<.
May I ask somebody to try to compile my keymap and see if it does it for them?
For my function layer, besides backlight and underglow controls, I have Esc as ~, 1 through 0 being F1-F10, - and = as Volume Down and Up, respectively, Backspace as Delete, Right Shift as Volume Mute, and WASD as arrows. I'll also attach it to post.
I just can't get it to compile =\.
Did you make sure to put the keymap.c into a 'custom' subfolder (next to 'default' subfolder) in the S60RGB sub dir?
Yes. See attached picture.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the picture. You can't compile with Windows CMD, download mhv avr tools and use that to compile.
Got it! Flashed and it's all working. Appreciate all the help. Was confused on CMD compiling because I think I did it for the Minorca 40%.
I'm having trouble getting the board flashed. I'm using QMK Firmware Flasher on mac, when it asks me to click on reset I can't get it to work. The button doesn't seem to register.
I tried using AMTEL FLIP on my PC, and after rebooting the software wouldn't run, and I cannot uninstall... feeling helplessly stupid.
I'm having trouble getting the board flashed. I'm using QMK Firmware Flasher on mac, when it asks me to click on reset I can't get it to work. The button doesn't seem to register.
I tried using AMTEL FLIP on my PC, and after rebooting the software wouldn't run, and I cannot uninstall... feeling helplessly stupid.
Check the button doesn't have a broken solder joint?
I'm having trouble getting the board flashed. I'm using QMK Firmware Flasher on mac, when it asks me to click on reset I can't get it to work. The button doesn't seem to register.
I tried using AMTEL FLIP on my PC, and after rebooting the software wouldn't run, and I cannot uninstall... feeling helplessly stupid.
Check the button doesn't have a broken solder joint?
Nope, it was user error. I fixed it with the QMK for windows. Still wondering about FLIP on my Windows 10PC, but whatever...
The wife helped me out and we had a blast putting this thing together, together. Can't wait to do another!Show Image(http://imgur.com/a/sG4j7)
Thought I'd share my S60-X RGB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iZkQNNN.jpg)
More photos of the build log here: http://imgur.com/a/OMOAz
Future plans:
- Desolder all the white LEDs (what was i thinking), orange ones are on the way, replace all of them
- Get some black M3 screws for the top plate to suit the black keycaps
Thought I'd share my S60-X RGB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iZkQNNN.jpg)
More photos of the build log here: http://imgur.com/a/OMOAz
Future plans:
- Desolder all the white LEDs (what was i thinking), orange ones are on the way, replace all of them
- Get some black M3 screws for the top plate to suit the black keycaps
Looks nice! I quite like the silver screws. Also, please be careful desoldering those LEDs!!! She's a beauty... You don't want to batter and bruise her with jumper wires all over the back (from having to reroute lifted pads)!
Thought I'd share my S60-X RGB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iZkQNNN.jpg)
More photos of the build log here: http://imgur.com/a/OMOAz
Future plans:
- Desolder all the white LEDs (what was i thinking), orange ones are on the way, replace all of them
- Get some black M3 screws for the top plate to suit the black keycaps
Thought I'd share my S60-X RGB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iZkQNNN.jpg)
More photos of the build log here: http://imgur.com/a/OMOAz
Future plans:
- Desolder all the white LEDs (what was i thinking), orange ones are on the way, replace all of them
- Get some black M3 screws for the top plate to suit the black keycaps
Looks nice! I quite like the silver screws. Also, please be careful desoldering those LEDs!!! She's a beauty... You don't want to batter and bruise her with jumper wires all over the back (from having to reroute lifted pads)!
Is this a shot at my jumper for a lifted pad?
Thought I'd share my S60-X RGB:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iZkQNNN.jpg)
More photos of the build log here: http://imgur.com/a/OMOAz
Future plans:
- Desolder all the white LEDs (what was i thinking), orange ones are on the way, replace all of them
- Get some black M3 screws for the top plate to suit the black keycaps
Looks nice! I quite like the silver screws. Also, please be careful desoldering those LEDs!!! She's a beauty... You don't want to batter and bruise her with jumper wires all over the back (from having to reroute lifted pads)!
Is this a shot at my jumper for a lifted pad?
Oh no. Just speaking from experience. I've had plenty a need for jumpers because of the fragile led pads in the past year. I learned my lesson... sips all the way for now on
[_FLTWO] = KEYMAP(
KC_GRV, KC_F1, KC_F2, KC_F3, KC_F4, KC_F5, KC_F6, KC_F7, KC_F8, KC_F9, KC_F10, KC_F11, KC_F12, RESET, KC_DELETE, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_LCTL, KC_LSFT,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_UP, KC_TRNS, KC_PSCREEN, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_HOME,KC_LEFT,KC_DOWN, KC_RIGHT, KC_END, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_AUDIO_MUTE,KC_AUDIO_VOL_DOWN, KC_AUDIO_VOL_UP, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS, KC_MENU, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS),
};I have an issue with the qmk firmware, maybe someone can help me. I forked the version from jbyoung and added a secondary layer:Code: [Select][_FLTWO] = KEYMAP(
KC_GRV, KC_F1, KC_F2, KC_F3, KC_F4, KC_F5, KC_F6, KC_F7, KC_F8, KC_F9, KC_F10, KC_F11, KC_F12, RESET, KC_DELETE, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_LCTL, KC_LSFT,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_UP, KC_TRNS, KC_PSCREEN, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_HOME,KC_LEFT,KC_DOWN, KC_RIGHT, KC_END, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_AUDIO_MUTE,KC_AUDIO_VOL_DOWN, KC_AUDIO_VOL_UP, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, \
KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS,KC_TRNS, KC_MENU, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS, KC_TRNS),
};
This enables me to use the arrow keys on CAPS + jikl which works as expected. I realized that I have trouble to reach Shift and Ctrl while holding the CAPSLOCK key so I mapped Shift to CAPS + W and CTRL to CAPS + E. Everything is working as expected except that when I use CAPS + W (Shift) and hit any key from the Layer above (that is not mapped in this Layer) say R, then the keyboard is writing everything in upper case, even when I release the Caps (function) key.
The keymap can be found here:
https://github.com/mjisaak/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/S60RGB/keymaps/default/keymap.c
Can anyone help me?
#define PREVENT_STUCK_MODIFIERS in config.h :-DHey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.
http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.
All the keys that aren't working are 3 e d x left alt and ~http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.
I notice in the last picture that two diodes are missing the black cover and look as though they could be damaged. I had this issue on my D key that prevented it from sending whatsoever. Could you check those diodes and if they are ruined replace them? Through-hole diodes can be used interchangeably with SMD, just hard to solder.
Edit, disregard this. It looks as though the flash made it look this way. What are all the keys that are not firing correctly?
Wiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.
I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.
So, here's an album of my build in a Tex case:
http://imgur.com/gallery/0AR3D
I did make 1 little mistake that I may fix down the road... I put the capslock switch in the wrong spot :( I don't usually use stepped caps, BUT I DO NOW. :p I'm currently using capslock as the function key, so it's not ideal, but oh well. If I get bored some day I'll desolder it and scootch it over to the next hole.
For getting the firmware working and cutomized I used:
- This thread (good info on the 5th and 6th pages) for the specifics of the firmware and
- Another post https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82935.0 for info on how to get a compiling environment up and running in Windows.
I used the QMK git deposit for the S60RGB that doodersbrother linked (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB) and added in the #define RGBLIGHT_ANIMATIONS line in the config.h file, as deductivemonkee so cleverly suggested.
Great community support here!
MoreWiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.
I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.
Thanks for the help! This is my first build so I was probably a little bit too liberal with the solder...I used all of what my soldering kit came with. Ill definitely try the toothbrush thing (I only have 70% alcohol but I think that should still be okay) and then resolver all those connections after I get some more solder.MoreWiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.
I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.
You have way too much solder on just about every connection. The solder should look like a gently sloping mountain, not a dome. There's a chance that when the solder domes like that it's not even connecting to the PCB. Here's an example I found: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/r/600-600/assets/c/d/a/a/9/523b1189757b7fb36e8b456b.jpg
The keys giving you an error (3, e, d, x) are all in a column and wired together in the PCB. I don't have a board in front of me to test, but it's not entirely uncommon for a column to pick up a random key like backspace to make it fit on the controller, but that may be a separate issue.
I would recommend completely desoldering those 4 keys and then soldering again. If you can, clean the pcb with an old (but clean) sacrificial toothbrush and some 91% isopropyl alcohol. All that yellow flux and solder residue should be removed from the pcb, and a good scrubbing over the whole thing will help catch any small but troublesome solder splatters that can occur when you're heating up as much solder as you used on those connections.
Finally, on the X key I can see a lot of the gold contact is still visible. When you're making the "mountains" try to ensure the entire contact is covered. Just wait for the solder to become fully liquified and drag the solder around ~25% of the switch leg (while also touching the contact), that should be enough for the solder to grab onto the whole thing.
Well I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/MoreWiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?http://imgur.com/a/HV451Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1. It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.
2. Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.
I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.
Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?
Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?
Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.
I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.
You have way too much solder on just about every connection. The solder should look like a gently sloping mountain, not a dome. There's a chance that when the solder domes like that it's not even connecting to the PCB. Here's an example I found: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/r/600-600/assets/c/d/a/a/9/523b1189757b7fb36e8b456b.jpg
The keys giving you an error (3, e, d, x) are all in a column and wired together in the PCB. I don't have a board in front of me to test, but it's not entirely uncommon for a column to pick up a random key like backspace to make it fit on the controller, but that may be a separate issue.
I would recommend completely desoldering those 4 keys and then soldering again. If you can, clean the pcb with an old (but clean) sacrificial toothbrush and some 91% isopropyl alcohol. All that yellow flux and solder residue should be removed from the pcb, and a good scrubbing over the whole thing will help catch any small but troublesome solder splatters that can occur when you're heating up as much solder as you used on those connections.
Finally, on the X key I can see a lot of the gold contact is still visible. When you're making the "mountains" try to ensure the entire contact is covered. Just wait for the solder to become fully liquified and drag the solder around ~25% of the switch leg (while also touching the contact), that should be enough for the solder to grab onto the whole thing.
Well I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/Can you post another picture of the PCB?
http://imgur.com/pbpgXlPWell I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/Can you post another picture of the PCB?
Morehttp://imgur.com/pbpgXlPWell I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/Can you post another picture of the PCB?
Sorry about the iphone quality I don't have a better camera.
I'd would love to send it to you but im not sure if there much that can be done so save it. It seems like either the PCB came screwed up or I screwed it up, I should have tested it before soldering. If you think there is a good chance you could save it I'm all for sending it off. Can you link me to your reddit accout? Thanks a ton for helping me!Morehttp://imgur.com/pbpgXlPWell I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/Can you post another picture of the PCB?
Sorry about the iphone quality I don't have a better camera.
That's still probably 3x more solder than you need. And look at what I think is B (if I'm counting correctly from the edge), that huge blob almost reaching to the diode. Things like that can cause issues similar to what you're seeing as there are "wires" running through the pcb and enough heat/solder can sometimes short to those.
It is possible to handwire, but you'll need a multimeter to track where to run the wires to/from (unless we have a full schematic available.)
I do a lot of custom builds for users over on r/mechmarket, if you want to send it to me I can look at this for just the cost of shipping - I'd love to help you get this board up and working.
So after OP gone silent for awhile, a GB of this kit goes online on Massdrop :)) Idk what to say now.
Gmk stormtrooper maybe?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Gmk stormtrooper maybe?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
That would match well, thanks. Now to find someone to sell me the few caps that I need.
Gmk stormtrooper maybe?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
That would match well, thanks. Now to find someone to sell me the few caps that I need.
I think the legends are a bit bigger on stormtrooper. We may make a compatibility set later with our dye-subs, but that's still a whiles off. Maybe cherry profile white blanks?
Also, I'll be shipping your diodes and keycap on Tuesday (monday is a holiday)
So, here's an album of my build in a Tex case:
http://imgur.com/gallery/0AR3D
I did make 1 little mistake that I may fix down the road... I put the capslock switch in the wrong spot :( I don't usually use stepped caps, BUT I DO NOW. :p I'm currently using capslock as the function key, so it's not ideal, but oh well. If I get bored some day I'll desolder it and scootch it over to the next hole.
For getting the firmware working and cutomized I used:
- This thread (good info on the 5th and 6th pages) for the specifics of the firmware and
- Another post https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82935.0 for info on how to get a compiling environment up and running in Windows.
I used the QMK git deposit for the S60RGB that doodersbrother linked (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB) and added in the #define RGBLIGHT_ANIMATIONS line in the config.h file, as deductivemonkee so cleverly suggested.
Great community support here!
Looks good! Could you post pics of the bottom?
So, here's an album of my build in a Tex case:
http://imgur.com/gallery/0AR3D
I did make 1 little mistake that I may fix down the road... I put the capslock switch in the wrong spot :( I don't usually use stepped caps, BUT I DO NOW. :p I'm currently using capslock as the function key, so it's not ideal, but oh well. If I get bored some day I'll desolder it and scootch it over to the next hole.
For getting the firmware working and cutomized I used:
- This thread (good info on the 5th and 6th pages) for the specifics of the firmware and
- Another post https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82935.0 for info on how to get a compiling environment up and running in Windows.
I used the QMK git deposit for the S60RGB that doodersbrother linked (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB) and added in the #define RGBLIGHT_ANIMATIONS line in the config.h file, as deductivemonkee so cleverly suggested.
Great community support here!
Looks good! Could you post pics of the bottom?
Here ya go:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Anyone here get the HHKB option and mind sharing their keymap and hex file? Helping a friend setup his keyboard and I'm completely stumped on how to get it compiled correctly. Any help would be much appreciated!
Quick question. So I added in a split right shift, but I can't seem to figure out how to add it in with QMK.
I tried to just add an extra declaration, (using KC_DEL as a holder here) but it says it's too many declarations:
KC_LSFT, KC_Z, KC_X, KC_C, KC_V, KC_B, KC_N, KC_M, KC_COMM,KC_DOT, KC_SLSH, KC_RSFT, KC_DEL, \
says I gave it 63 instead of 62. Ideas? Thanks in advance.
doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?
doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?
The board is already at the max for power consumption on usb 2.0 ports. Although if you happened to be using a usb 3.0 port you could hypothetically pull DOUT, VCC, and GND off of RGB10, if anything happens as a result of this it's completely unsupported, and entirely your own responsibility.
doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?
The board is already at the max for power consumption on usb 2.0 ports. Although if you happened to be using a usb 3.0 port you could hypothetically pull DOUT, VCC, and GND off of RGB10, if anything happens as a result of this it's completely unsupported, and entirely your own responsibility.
How does the s65 RGB PCB have so many more LEDs then?
doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?
The board is already at the max for power consumption on usb 2.0 ports. Although if you happened to be using a usb 3.0 port you could hypothetically pull DOUT, VCC, and GND off of RGB10, if anything happens as a result of this it's completely unsupported, and entirely your own responsibility.
How does the s65 RGB PCB have so many more LEDs then?
The brightness of the LEDs is being limited in firmware, so overall it uses the same power, but each LED is not as bright.
Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...
Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...
Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...
Look a few posts up about the .H file. That was for the left split shift but same idea.
Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...
I'll post the code soon. Eating
Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...
Look a few posts up about the .H file. That was for the left split shift but same idea.
D'oh! I was reading through posts last night before those were posted...and didn't post about the exact same issue. Ya know, to try and figure it out myself! and not look dumb!...and now I look dumb. Haha thank you for the heads up.Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...
I'll post the code soon. Eating
Perfect, thanks! I added in the k3c key in the .h before the k3d in the second group of args, but putting it into the first group (and matching up the HHKB layout that's set up beneath it, for reference) it comes after, so I think that's where I'm getting confused. :-[
For reference, here is what my non-working-layout currently looks like: http://pastebin.com/5PTkmZSt (http://pastebin.com/5PTkmZSt)
[...]This helped a lot, k3e was exactly what I needed! Thank you so much!
Hope that helps.
Hi Sentraq-Team,
I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.
I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?
I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.
What can I do?
Best regards,
Martin Brandl
I am very disappointed right now. It seems like I have an issue with the LEDs so I wrote sentraq an email (info@sentraq.com) on 1/16 but didn't received any response.
This is what I sent them:QuoteHi Sentraq-Team,
I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.
I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?
I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.
What can I do?
Best regards,
Martin Brandl
Here the video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWT0VHdjVORkZTdXVjWmdJMk5ybEdUb2FaUEVz
and my solderd PCB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWQlRHbjVsZFZ0Q0d3Q21ZWHJsdEwwblhVbjJN
Any suggestions?
Did you test everything before soldering? LEDs, backlight LEDs, and switch holes?No, I didn't. Forgot to say that I don't have Switch-LEDs, only the standard backlight LEDs which comes with the board.
I am very disappointed right now. It seems like I have an issue with the LEDs so I wrote sentraq an email (info@sentraq.com) on 1/16 but didn't received any response.
This is what I sent them:QuoteHi Sentraq-Team,
I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.
I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?
I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.
What can I do?
Best regards,
Martin Brandl
Here the video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWT0VHdjVORkZTdXVjWmdJMk5ybEdUb2FaUEVz
and my solderd PCB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWQlRHbjVsZFZ0Q0d3Q21ZWHJsdEwwblhVbjJN
Any suggestions?
I am very disappointed right now. It seems like I have an issue with the LEDs so I wrote sentraq an email (info@sentraq.com) on 1/16 but didn't received any response.
This is what I sent them:QuoteHi Sentraq-Team,
I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.
I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?
I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.
What can I do?
Best regards,
Martin Brandl
Here the video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWT0VHdjVORkZTdXVjWmdJMk5ybEdUb2FaUEVz
and my solderd PCB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWQlRHbjVsZFZ0Q0d3Q21ZWHJsdEwwblhVbjJN
Any suggestions?
Hey, I don't remember getting an email. I must have missed it I'll look into it and get back to you. Sorry about that!
Just wondering, any plans for a second GB of this kit anytime soon :3 ?
Just wondering, any plans for a second GB of this kit anytime soon :3 ?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/sentraq-60-diy-keyboard-kit?mode=guest
OK, after all the issues I've been seeing with this PCB I decided to test out the entire board before I started soldering. I own a multi-meter and I just finished testing the vias (holes) for the switches and I got all of them to make the needle move except for three areas. Now I'm not sure if this bad, because I'm also not sure of exactly what I'm doing. What I mean by that is that I don't know what setting to put the multimeter on...I just fooled around with the dial until I could get the needle to move when I put the leads across the vias. So, in short, I didn't get much, if any movement on the needle with the backspace key, the split backspace key and the 1u split right shift key. I have posted pictures of the front and back of the PCB. All looks good to me. What should my next step be?
http://imgur.com/a/IeaN5 (http://imgur.com/a/IeaN5)
P.S. I feel defeated because I don't ever get time to solder at home (I have a 1 year old) and now I'm on a work trip (by myself) and this is the only board that I brought to work on. I'm itching to solder, but I don't think I can if this is an issue. I should have brought my HOLTITEs with me so I could have tested it. Lesson learned.
Just take a bent paperclip and short each pair of holes, it comes pre-flashed with firmware. I personally don't use a multimeter, so I can't offer any advice for that.
Just take a bent paperclip and short each pair of holes, it comes pre-flashed with firmware. I personally don't use a multimeter, so I can't offer any advice for that.
I will admit that I should have thought of that myself. Hah. Thanks for your help.
Ok, I shorted those holes and they are not registering any keypresses. All the other ones that I verified as good with the multimeter are good when I short them. So does this mean I have a dud?
With the pre-flashed firmware split keys and extra keys are not assigned to anything, and will not output keycodes. It sounds like it is a good PCB.
Can anyone tell me whats the qmk keycode for a right click to show the menu in windows? I tried KC_MENU without success
Can anyone tell me whats the qmk keycode for a right click to show the menu in windows? I tried KC_MENU without success
Try KC_APP
Can anyone tell me whats the qmk keycode for a right click to show the menu in windows? I tried KC_MENU without success
Try KC_APP
I did tried KC_APPLICATION which is the same - right?
Can anyone tell me whats the qmk keycode for a right click to show the menu in windows? I tried KC_MENU without success
Try KC_APP
I did tried KC_APPLICATION which is the same - right?
Yes, same thing. If you want an actual right mouse click you have to enable Mouse Keys (if it isn't already enabled) and use the codes in the mousekeys section https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/blob/master/tmk_core/common/keycode.h (https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/blob/master/tmk_core/common/keycode.h)
Hey jisaak, sorry for the late reply. Was busy during the weekend. Anyway, I found a defective PCB with the same issue and I'm not sure why it's happening. If I can't figure it out I'll just send you a replacement PCB.Anyway thanks for answer, looking forward to hear from you.
Hey jisaak, sorry for the late reply. Was busy during the weekend. Anyway, I found a defective PCB with the same issue and I'm not sure why it's happening. If I can't figure it out I'll just send you a replacement PCB.Anyway thanks for answer, looking forward to hear from you.
So i'm using the software from sentraq.com. When i did it my my control keys window keys. Or as far as i know i have no control keys. can anybody help me out? This is my first keyboard, and i have no idea how to program. I want control and alt on the left side and guide and fn on the right. I have the hhkb version. Also arrow keys on wasd. If anybody can help make this possible. I on windows 10
Hi,
I haven't received my order yet and I haven't received any response from Sentraq (info@sentraq.com). On 11 Jan Brandon told me he would probably ship within a week.
So on 19 Jan I sent another email asking for any progress. No response. I sent another on 23 Jan and still no response.
Can I know the status of my order?
The lack of communication makes me worry.
Thanks
Tbh, I would buy some new zealios switches and solder them to the new PCB and Just replace it.Hey jisaak, sorry for the late reply. Was busy during the weekend. Anyway, I found a defective PCB with the same issue and I'm not sure why it's happening. If I can't figure it out I'll just send you a replacement PCB.Anyway thanks for answer, looking forward to hear from you.
I think a replacement PCB will be needed. Are you able to desolder?
Tbh, I would buy some new zealios switches and solder them to the new PCB and Just replace it.Hey jisaak, sorry for the late reply. Was busy during the weekend. Anyway, I found a defective PCB with the same issue and I'm not sure why it's happening. If I can't figure it out I'll just send you a replacement PCB.Anyway thanks for answer, looking forward to hear from you.
I think a replacement PCB will be needed. Are you able to desolder?
Tbh, I would buy some new zealios switches and solder them to the new PCB and Just replace it.Hey jisaak, sorry for the late reply. Was busy during the weekend. Anyway, I found a defective PCB with the same issue and I'm not sure why it's happening. If I can't figure it out I'll just send you a replacement PCB.Anyway thanks for answer, looking forward to hear from you.
I think a replacement PCB will be needed. Are you able to desolder?
You'd still have to desolder the switches to be able to use the plate :/
With the default .hex from sentraq, are there arrow keys? and when i push what i would hope to be a control key its the windows key. I don't know anything about programming, So please can anybody help me.
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
So i had to desolder and resolder my board to fix my stabilizers, and now my backspace is dead. I've tried everything and it looks burned, What can i do? Am i stuck with the dead key or could i get a replacement?Use some jumper wires to wire it to one of the split backspace keys, then map that key to backspace and unmap the dead backspace key.
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
I finally put together my board this week and it looks like I also have 2 bottom RGB led's that flicker on and one RGB led right above it that doesnt turn on. Would this chart apply to me as well?
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
Can you explain me what to do? What you mean with Reflow? Im not familiar with PCB hardware - just barely able to solder....
anyone have details of how to flash firmware on this?
very new to building keyboards.
got it soldered together just fine its looking dope though i have no clue how to use this thing. no idea how to change the RGB colors of the underglow nor are my in key LEDs working. to be honest im a little bummed there isnt more info out there about these things.
anyway i have the backspace button issue and would like to atleast flash the firmware to fix that. so any help much appreciated.
1. download and install FLIP (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx)
2. Device -> Select: choose ATMega32U4
3. Settings -> Communication -> USB, FLIP should show the signature at this point (58 1E 95 87)
4. File -> Load HEX file: choose the hex firmware
5. click "Run"
6. after programming is done, disconnect the device from USB and connect again.
Press the button on the bottom of the PCB then press openanyone have details of how to flash firmware on this?
very new to building keyboards.
got it soldered together just fine its looking dope though i have no clue how to use this thing. no idea how to change the RGB colors of the underglow nor are my in key LEDs working. to be honest im a little bummed there isnt more info out there about these things.
anyway i have the backspace button issue and would like to atleast flash the firmware to fix that. so any help much appreciated.
1. download and install FLIP (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx)
2. Device -> Select: choose ATMega32U4
3. Settings -> Communication -> USB, FLIP should show the signature at this point (58 1E 95 87)
4. File -> Load HEX file: choose the hex firmware
5. click "Run"
6. after programming is done, disconnect the device from USB and connect again.
I can't get past step 3. When I select USB, I get a box that has Open, Close (grayed out), and Cancel. Hitting Open brings up a message saying "Could not Open USB device". FLIP also says Communication Off in the corner.
Moving back to before this, after I soldered all the switches in, I noticed that my backspace and bottom right switch (HHKB layout) don't seem to work when I tested them in Keyboard Tester. I desoldered and soldered in new switches for those, but no change. The solder joints look good to me and the pads don't seem lifted, either. Anyone know what the issue may be?
Press the button on the bottom of the PCB then press open
1. download and install FLIP (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx)
2. Device -> Select: choose ATMega32U4
3. Settings -> Communication -> USB, FLIP should show the signature at this point (58 1E 95 87)
4. File -> Load HEX file: choose the hex firmware
5. click "Run"
6. after programming is done, disconnect the device from USB and connect again.
I can't get past step 3. When I select USB, I get a box that has Open, Close (grayed out), and Cancel. Hitting Open brings up a message saying "Could not Open USB device". FLIP also says Communication Off in the corner.
Moving back to before this, after I soldered all the switches in, I noticed that my backspace and bottom right switch (HHKB layout) don't seem to work when I tested them in Keyboard Tester. I desoldered and soldered in new switches for those, but no change. The solder joints look good to me and the pads don't seem lifted, either. Anyone know what the issue may be?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Press the button on the bottom of the PCB then press open
1. download and install FLIP (http://www.atmel.com/tools/FLIP.aspx)
2. Device -> Select: choose ATMega32U4
3. Settings -> Communication -> USB, FLIP should show the signature at this point (58 1E 95 87)
4. File -> Load HEX file: choose the hex firmware
5. click "Run"
6. after programming is done, disconnect the device from USB and connect again.
I can't get past step 3. When I select USB, I get a box that has Open, Close (grayed out), and Cancel. Hitting Open brings up a message saying "Could not Open USB device". FLIP also says Communication Off in the corner.
Moving back to before this, after I soldered all the switches in, I noticed that my backspace and bottom right switch (HHKB layout) don't seem to work when I tested them in Keyboard Tester. I desoldered and soldered in new switches for those, but no change. The solder joints look good to me and the pads don't seem lifted, either. Anyone know what the issue may be?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Wow, I am dumb, thank you. I just did the programming and flashing on my LJD61up the other week and I completely forgot about the button on the PCB. Since the board needs QMK, so I need to use something other than EasyKeymap (not that I'm good with that, either...) to create the layout/hex file, or is there something else I need to use?
Press the button on the bottom of the PCB then press open
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Wow, I am dumb, thank you. I just did the programming and flashing on my LJD61up the other week and I completely forgot about the button on the PCB. Since the board needs QMK, so I need to use something other than EasyKeymap (not that I'm good with that, either...) to create the layout/hex file, or is there something else I need to use?
http://qmk.sized.io/
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
Can you explain me what to do? What you mean with Reflow? Im not familiar with PCB hardware - just barely able to solder....
Just remelt the solder on the RGBs DIN and DOUT pins, you may have to add a tiny bit more. Going in the circle the only ones that you should have to do is the one before they start behaving oddly and the one after.
Hi,Looks like it's shorting and activating a whole column. Check your soldering. If not, did you mess with any firmware?
I received mine and built it today and I'm getting a weird issue with my top row. Here's me pressing each key in the top row in sequence:
1qa2wsz3edx4rfc5tgv6yhb 7ujn8ikm9ol,0p;.-['/=]
Any ideas what's wrong and how to fix?
Cheers.
Hi,Looks like it's shorting and activating a whole column. Check your soldering. If not, did you mess with any firmware?
I received mine and built it today and I'm getting a weird issue with my top row. Here's me pressing each key in the top row in sequence:
1qa2wsz3edx4rfc5tgv6yhb 7ujn8ikm9ol,0p;.-['/=]
Any ideas what's wrong and how to fix?
Cheers.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
It puts it into programming mode so that you can put a new firmware on itHi,Looks like it's shorting and activating a whole column. Check your soldering. If not, did you mess with any firmware?
I received mine and built it today and I'm getting a weird issue with my top row. Here's me pressing each key in the top row in sequence:
1qa2wsz3edx4rfc5tgv6yhb 7ujn8ikm9ol,0p;.-['/=]
Any ideas what's wrong and how to fix?
Cheers.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Hey, thanks for the reply!
My soldering looks okay, but I'll give it a once over. I've not messed with the firmware yet, but it's on my to-do list.
Also, what is the button on the underside of the PCB for?
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
Can you explain me what to do? What you mean with Reflow? Im not familiar with PCB hardware - just barely able to solder....
Just remelt the solder on the RGBs DIN and DOUT pins, you may have to add a tiny bit more. Going in the circle the only ones that you should have to do is the one before they start behaving oddly and the one after.
Thanks for the explanation. Unfortunately, I was not able to fix it, instead I broke a diode which made my "O" stop working. I brought the board to a friend who was able to remove the broken diode and attached a new one. Now the keys are working again but the LED issue still exists :-(
Ah, cool, thanks. I just flashed a new hex onto it using the guide at http://qmk.fm/keyboards/s60-x/ It's all over the place now. For example, if I press space, I get Alt. If I press 1, I get Windows Key. If I press 5, I get Ctrl, Alt and Shift simultaneously. Really not sure what to do tbh.
Ah, cool, thanks. I just flashed a new hex onto it using the guide at http://qmk.fm/keyboards/s60-x/ It's all over the place now. For example, if I press space, I get Alt. If I press 1, I get Windows Key. If I press 5, I get Ctrl, Alt and Shift simultaneously. Really not sure what to do tbh.
I wasn't able to find anything wrong from the pictures. Make sure there are no shorts on your board (two different areas connected by solder), and try wiping it with alcohol. If nothing works, I can send you a replacement.
Ah, cool, thanks. I just flashed a new hex onto it using the guide at http://qmk.fm/keyboards/s60-x/ It's all over the place now. For example, if I press space, I get Alt. If I press 1, I get Windows Key. If I press 5, I get Ctrl, Alt and Shift simultaneously. Really not sure what to do tbh.
I wasn't able to find anything wrong from the pictures. Make sure there are no shorts on your board (two different areas connected by solder), and try wiping it with alcohol. If nothing works, I can send you a replacement.
Thanks! Sorry if this is a noobish question: what type of alcohol? I'm sure I can't just wipe it down with vodka! ;D
Finished up my build today (first build) everything seems to be in working order, however, when the in-switch LEDs are in the lower two brightness settings they seem to flicker but in the higher two brightness settings they do not flicker.
Did I mess up soldering something?
I have this as well and it seems to just be the power delivery.Finished up my build today (first build) everything seems to be in working order, however, when the in-switch LEDs are in the lower two brightness settings they seem to flicker but in the higher two brightness settings they do not flicker.
Did I mess up soldering something?
I'm having a similar issue, but only when a key is held down. The flickering is more intense the more to the right the key being pressed is. \ blinks the leds rapidly and LCTRL does only a very subtle dimming.
Does anyone have ideas what I should check for?
My keyboard was working fine for a couple weeks. Now on the firmware I was running (deductivemonkee's) my LCTRL and CAPS are switched. I have tried flashing a few different hex files to it and they all have similar but different results (for example: LALT and CAPS swapped, CAPS in right place but cycles the in-switch LEDs). I have checked the PCB for shorts and cleaned it with alcohol -- no help.
Is this a PCB issue? There seem to have been some similar problems reported in this thread to what I am experiencing.
My keyboard was working fine for a couple weeks. Now on the firmware I was running (deductivemonkee's) my LCTRL and CAPS are switched. I have tried flashing a few different hex files to it and they all have similar but different results (for example: LALT and CAPS swapped, CAPS in right place but cycles the in-switch LEDs). I have checked the PCB for shorts and cleaned it with alcohol -- no help.
Is this a PCB issue? There seem to have been some similar problems reported in this thread to what I am experiencing.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard#boot-magic-configuration---virtual-dip-switch
Unplug it. Hold down Space+Backspace while plugging it back in.
^^ Same deal.
Received the delay email a while back, sent an email on the 22nd, haven't heard back yet.
Any info would be great, thanks.
Hey,
I haven't gotten my order yet.
I sent an email on the 23rd asking for any progress.
Can I know the status of my order?
Thanks!
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
Can you explain me what to do? What you mean with Reflow? Im not familiar with PCB hardware - just barely able to solder....
Just remelt the solder on the RGBs DIN and DOUT pins, you may have to add a tiny bit more. Going in the circle the only ones that you should have to do is the one before they start behaving oddly and the one after.
Thanks for the explanation. Unfortunately, I was not able to fix it, instead I broke a diode which made my "O" stop working. I brought the board to a friend who was able to remove the broken diode and attached a new one. Now the keys are working again but the LED issue still exists :-(
Alright, well the replacement PCB's will be coming in this week.
jisaak, I think I know what's wrong with your PCB actually. I think it may be a cold solder joint on the RGB LEDs.
Reflow DIN and DOUT for the LED's starting with 1, and going counter clockwise.Show Image(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L29MmLd1ke4/WI1loEcmfvI/AAAAAAAACM0/WVTV5Dq5H9MMyXAmJk_DPxjAFbVHo8IPQCL0B/h763/2017-01-28.png)
Can you explain me what to do? What you mean with Reflow? Im not familiar with PCB hardware - just barely able to solder....
Just remelt the solder on the RGBs DIN and DOUT pins, you may have to add a tiny bit more. Going in the circle the only ones that you should have to do is the one before they start behaving oddly and the one after.
Thanks for the explanation. Unfortunately, I was not able to fix it, instead I broke a diode which made my "O" stop working. I brought the board to a friend who was able to remove the broken diode and attached a new one. Now the keys are working again but the LED issue still exists :-(
Alright, well the replacement PCB's will be coming in this week.
Didn't received anything yet - any update?
Sentraq,
Real late putting mine together and I've found a defect on the bottom plate.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/W2yii7Z.jpg?2)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rqPqwqN.jpg?2)
Send me an email at info@sentraq.comEmail sent.
welp I have another issue, my LCTRL is not working. The led works for the key and the switch is good I have checked conductivity thru the switch with a meter, I thought I had checked the board with Keyboard tester before hand but I have must have overlooked this one. I have reprogrammed the keyboard twice, desolder/solder the switch back, i reflowed the SMD resistor for the key also. Any help? anything i can do short of replace the PCB?Why reflow the led resistor? If anything reflow the diode. If that doesn't work you could jump the switch to the previous part of the matrix if you lifted a pad.
So I'm having an issue after flashing my S60X.. For some reason, when any of the keys in rows 2, 3, or 4 are pressed, it activates the entire column. Rows 0 and 1 are fine. Any ideas what may be the issue?
I didn't think my solder job was too bad, but here's some pics: http://imgur.com/a/cRbPF
So I'm having an issue after flashing my S60X.. For some reason, when any of the keys in rows 2, 3, or 4 are pressed, it activates the entire column. Rows 0 and 1 are fine. Any ideas what may be the issue?
I didn't think my solder job was too bad, but here's some pics: http://imgur.com/a/cRbPF
I see screw in stabilizers. My guess is that one or more of them is shorting a contact. Add tape under the screw heads
Had to do this on mine using zeal screw ins. Mentioned it on th gb page and it's a known issue. Tape works though
So I'm having an issue after flashing my S60X.. For some reason, when any of the keys in rows 2, 3, or 4 are pressed, it activates the entire column. Rows 0 and 1 are fine. Any ideas what may be the issue?
I didn't think my solder job was too bad, but here's some pics: http://imgur.com/a/cRbPF
I see screw in stabilizers. My guess is that one or more of them is shorting a contact. Add tape under the screw heads
Had to do this on mine using zeal screw ins. Mentioned it on th gb page and it's a known issue. Tape works though
This worked! :thumb: thanks for the advice
So I'm having an issue after flashing my S60X.. For some reason, when any of the keys in rows 2, 3, or 4 are pressed, it activates the entire column. Rows 0 and 1 are fine. Any ideas what may be the issue?
I didn't think my solder job was too bad, but here's some pics: http://imgur.com/a/cRbPF
I see screw in stabilizers. My guess is that one or more of them is shorting a contact. Add tape under the screw heads
Had to do this on mine using zeal screw ins. Mentioned it on th gb page and it's a known issue. Tape works though
This worked! :thumb: thanks for the advice
Nice. Glad it worked
So I'm having an issue after flashing my S60X.. For some reason, when any of the keys in rows 2, 3, or 4 are pressed, it activates the entire column. Rows 0 and 1 are fine. Any ideas what may be the issue?
I didn't think my solder job was too bad, but here's some pics: http://imgur.com/a/cRbPF
I see screw in stabilizers. My guess is that one or more of them is shorting a contact. Add tape under the screw heads
Had to do this on mine using zeal screw ins. Mentioned it on th gb page and it's a known issue. Tape works though
This worked! :thumb: thanks for the advice
Nice. Glad it worked
I'm having a similar issue, however it only happens when keys in the shift row are pressed (pressing z causes 2wsz to show up and I'm guessing Alt sends as well), and I don't have screw-in stabilizers. I can't find anything that looks like its creating a short.
Any help is appreciated :thumb:
So I'm having an issue after flashing my S60X.. For some reason, when any of the keys in rows 2, 3, or 4 are pressed, it activates the entire column. Rows 0 and 1 are fine. Any ideas what may be the issue?
I didn't think my solder job was too bad, but here's some pics: http://imgur.com/a/cRbPF
I see screw in stabilizers. My guess is that one or more of them is shorting a contact. Add tape under the screw heads
Had to do this on mine using zeal screw ins. Mentioned it on th gb page and it's a known issue. Tape works though
This worked! :thumb: thanks for the advice
Nice. Glad it worked
I'm having a similar issue, however it only happens when keys in the shift row are pressed (pressing z causes 2wsz to show up and I'm guessing Alt sends as well), and I don't have screw-in stabilizers. I can't find anything that looks like its creating a short.
Any help is appreciated :thumb:
Pics will help.
Completely forgot to add these before: http://imgur.com/a/3pUbo
I know a lot of the led pins are excessively long, I'm going to cut them today.
The soldering really is rough here. It looks like your iron is too hot with all of that burnt flux. (or you're keeping the iron on it too long).
But the issue you describe sounds, to me, like a diode that is getting shorted. Let's look at the diodes on that row and see what we see.
Also, is it ALL of the shift row? or just the Z key column?