[GB] Sentraq S60-X RGB Kit (Closing)

[The Tetanus Clam]

Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1.       It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.

2.       Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.

I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.

Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?

No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.

Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?

Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.

Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?

http://imgur.com/a/HV451
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.

I notice in the last picture that two diodes are missing the black cover and look as though they could be damaged. I had this issue on my D key that prevented it from sending whatsoever. Could you check those diodes and if they are ruined replace them? Through-hole diodes can be used interchangeably with SMD, just hard to solder.

Edit, disregard this. It looks as though the flash made it look this way. What are all the keys that are not firing correctly?

All the keys that aren't working are 3 e d x left alt and ~

[The Tetanus Clam]

Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1.       It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.

2.       Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.

I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.

Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?

No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.

Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?

Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.

Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?

http://imgur.com/a/HV451
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.

I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.

Wiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?

[deductivemonkee]

So, here's an album of my build in a Tex case:
http://imgur.com/gallery/0AR3D

I did make 1 little mistake that I may fix down the road... I put the capslock switch in the wrong spot   I don't usually use stepped caps, BUT I DO NOW.     I'm currently using capslock as the function key, so it's not ideal, but oh well.  If I get bored some day I'll desolder it and scootch it over to the next hole.

For getting the firmware working and cutomized I used:

• This thread (good info on the 5th and 6th pages) for the specifics of the firmware and
• Another post https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82935.0 for info on how to get a compiling environment up and running in Windows.

I used the QMK git deposit for the S60RGB that doodersbrother linked (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB) and added in the #define RGBLIGHT_ANIMATIONS line in the config.h file, as deductivemonkee so cleverly suggested.

Great community support here!

Looks good! Could you post pics of the bottom?

[IneffableTao]

More

Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1.       It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.

2.       Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.

I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.

Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?

No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.

Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?

Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.

Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?

http://imgur.com/a/HV451
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.

I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.

Wiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?

You have way too much solder on just about every connection.  The solder should look like a gently sloping mountain, not a dome.  There's a chance that when the solder domes like that it's not even connecting to the PCB.  Here's an example I found: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/r/600-600/assets/c/d/a/a/9/523b1189757b7fb36e8b456b.jpg

The keys giving you an error (3, e, d, x) are all in a column and wired together in the PCB.  I don't have a board in front of me to test, but it's not entirely uncommon for a column to pick up a random key like backspace to make it fit on the controller, but that may be a separate issue.

I would recommend completely desoldering those 4 keys and then soldering again.  If you can, clean the pcb with an old (but clean) sacrificial toothbrush and some 91% isopropyl alcohol.  All that yellow flux and solder residue should be removed from the pcb, and a good scrubbing over the whole thing will help catch any small but troublesome solder splatters that can occur when you're heating up as much solder as you used on those connections. 

Finally, on the X key I can see a lot of the gold contact is still visible.  When you're making the "mountains" try to ensure the entire contact is covered.  Just wait for the solder to become fully liquified and drag the solder around ~25% of the switch leg (while also touching the contact), that should be enough for the solder to grab onto the whole thing. 

[The Tetanus Clam]

More

Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1.       It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.

2.       Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.

I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.

Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?

No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.

Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?

Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.

Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?

http://imgur.com/a/HV451
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.

I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.

Wiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?

You have way too much solder on just about every connection.  The solder should look like a gently sloping mountain, not a dome.  There's a chance that when the solder domes like that it's not even connecting to the PCB.  Here's an example I found: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/r/600-600/assets/c/d/a/a/9/523b1189757b7fb36e8b456b.jpg

The keys giving you an error (3, e, d, x) are all in a column and wired together in the PCB.  I don't have a board in front of me to test, but it's not entirely uncommon for a column to pick up a random key like backspace to make it fit on the controller, but that may be a separate issue.

I would recommend completely desoldering those 4 keys and then soldering again.  If you can, clean the pcb with an old (but clean) sacrificial toothbrush and some 91% isopropyl alcohol.  All that yellow flux and solder residue should be removed from the pcb, and a good scrubbing over the whole thing will help catch any small but troublesome solder splatters that can occur when you're heating up as much solder as you used on those connections. 

Finally, on the X key I can see a lot of the gold contact is still visible.  When you're making the "mountains" try to ensure the entire contact is covered.  Just wait for the solder to become fully liquified and drag the solder around ~25% of the switch leg (while also touching the contact), that should be enough for the solder to grab onto the whole thing.

Thanks for the help! This is my first build so I was probably a little bit too liberal with the solder...I used all of what my soldering kit came with. Ill definitely try the toothbrush thing (I only have 70% alcohol but I think that should still be okay) and then resolver all those connections after I get some more solder.
I REALLY appreciate your help with this- I have been quite frustrated trying to figure out what the issue was. I'll let you guys know if it works or not when I'm finished.

[The Tetanus Clam]

More

Hey everyone,
This is my first build and am having some pretty annoying issues with my keys.
1.       It seems that many of my keys aren't working, including but not limited to "3" "e" "d" "x" and "backspace." This is AFTER flashing and re-flashing the firmware with the latest firmware we were linked to. Also, whenever I try and short the connection with a pair of tweezers, it doesn't work. In addition, there are NO burn marks on the PCB (other than small amounts of burned solder that I have checked and flakes right off). I did spring swap my switches, however I don't think that could have caused any issues considering I did it very carefully and made sure every switch was put back together correctly. Lastly, I redid all of the soldering on the broken keys without any luck.

2.       Whenever my keyboard is plugged in, it spams the x key endlessly until I press another key. After talking a look at the PCB I can't find any damage or anything out of place.

I appreciate any help. Just to reiterate, I had all of these issues before AND after flashing and re-flashing the firmware.

Did you test each key by shorting it BEFORE soldering anything?

No that probably would have been a good idea. This is my first build so I didn't think of that. I can't really think of a reason why so many keys wouldn't be working other than a defective PCB right? I know for a fact that I couldn't have burnt the pads because I made an extremely conscious effort to not even so much as touch the PCB with my soldering iron.

Make sure that nothing is shorting on the bottom of the case?

Don't even have the case on yet and I was holding it when I was checking it so nothing should be shorting it.

Can you take some pictures of the soldering and PCB?

http://imgur.com/a/HV451
the burn mark like things is just burnt solder and flux that I checked. It peels off so its not the board. I also redid some of the solder in these pictures so they are slightly old.

I would wipe the board with some alcohol. Some solder joints have a lot of solder on them, especially the right shift. check to make sure it isn't shorting out another switch's pad.

Wiped the board with a soft microfiber cloth with some alcohol in it but that didn't help much. I forgot to mention that whenever I plug in the keyboard it spams the "x" key which is strange considering when I press the x key it doesn't work. Could this mean there is a short at that key?

You have way too much solder on just about every connection.  The solder should look like a gently sloping mountain, not a dome.  There's a chance that when the solder domes like that it's not even connecting to the PCB.  Here's an example I found: https://cdn.sparkfun.com/r/600-600/assets/c/d/a/a/9/523b1189757b7fb36e8b456b.jpg

The keys giving you an error (3, e, d, x) are all in a column and wired together in the PCB.  I don't have a board in front of me to test, but it's not entirely uncommon for a column to pick up a random key like backspace to make it fit on the controller, but that may be a separate issue.

I would recommend completely desoldering those 4 keys and then soldering again.  If you can, clean the pcb with an old (but clean) sacrificial toothbrush and some 91% isopropyl alcohol.  All that yellow flux and solder residue should be removed from the pcb, and a good scrubbing over the whole thing will help catch any small but troublesome solder splatters that can occur when you're heating up as much solder as you used on those connections. 

Finally, on the X key I can see a lot of the gold contact is still visible.  When you're making the "mountains" try to ensure the entire contact is covered.  Just wait for the solder to become fully liquified and drag the solder around ~25% of the switch leg (while also touching the contact), that should be enough for the solder to grab onto the whole thing.

Well I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/

[doodersbrother]

Well I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/

Can you post another picture of the PCB?

[The Tetanus Clam]

Well I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/

Can you post another picture of the PCB?

http://imgur.com/pbpgXlP
Sorry about the iphone quality I don't have a better camera.

[IneffableTao]

More

Well I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/

Can you post another picture of the PCB?

http://imgur.com/pbpgXlP
Sorry about the iphone quality I don't have a better camera.

That's still probably 3x more solder than you need.  And look at what I think is B (if I'm counting correctly from the edge), that huge blob almost reaching to the diode.  Things like that can cause issues similar to what you're seeing as there are "wires" running through the pcb and enough heat/solder can sometimes short to those.

It is possible to handwire, but you'll need a multimeter to track where to run the wires to/from (unless we have a full schematic available.) 

I do a lot of custom builds for users over on r/mechmarket, if you want to send it to me I can look at this for just the cost of shipping - I'd love to help you get this board up and working.

[The Tetanus Clam]

More

Well I tried everything you said and still no luck. The x key still spams when I turn it on and the same 4 keys still don't work. This has to be an issue with the PCB right? Also, I was talking to one of my friends about this and he said I might be able to just hand wire the connections. Is this actually possible for me to do? I feel like I'm running out of options here other than just ordering another PCB or something :/

Can you post another picture of the PCB?

http://imgur.com/pbpgXlP
Sorry about the iphone quality I don't have a better camera.

That's still probably 3x more solder than you need.  And look at what I think is B (if I'm counting correctly from the edge), that huge blob almost reaching to the diode.  Things like that can cause issues similar to what you're seeing as there are "wires" running through the pcb and enough heat/solder can sometimes short to those.

It is possible to handwire, but you'll need a multimeter to track where to run the wires to/from (unless we have a full schematic available.) 

I do a lot of custom builds for users over on r/mechmarket, if you want to send it to me I can look at this for just the cost of shipping - I'd love to help you get this board up and working.

I'd would love to send it to you but im not sure if there much that can be done so save it. It seems like either the PCB came screwed up or I screwed it up, I should have tested it before soldering. If you think there is a good chance you could save it I'm all for sending it off. Can you link me to your reddit accout? Thanks a ton for helping me!

[Liam]

So after OP gone silent for awhile, a GB of this kit goes online on Massdrop ) Idk what to say now.

[deductivemonkee]

So after OP gone silent for awhile, a GB of this kit goes online on Massdrop ) Idk what to say now.

Look 5 posts up.

[deductivemonkee]

Has anyone found some keys that somewhat match the BoW pbt caps that came with this and are cherry profile for split left shift, right shift, and split backspace?

[Arhipio]

Gmk stormtrooper maybe?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[deductivemonkee]

Gmk stormtrooper maybe?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

That would match well, thanks. Now to find someone to sell me the few caps that I need.

[doodersbrother]

Gmk stormtrooper maybe?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

That would match well, thanks. Now to find someone to sell me the few caps that I need.

I think the legends are a bit bigger on stormtrooper. We may make a compatibility set later with our dye-subs, but that's still a whiles off. Maybe cherry profile white blanks?

Also, I'll be shipping your diodes and keycap on Tuesday (monday is a holiday)

[deductivemonkee]

Gmk stormtrooper maybe?

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

That would match well, thanks. Now to find someone to sell me the few caps that I need.

I think the legends are a bit bigger on stormtrooper. We may make a compatibility set later with our dye-subs, but that's still a whiles off. Maybe cherry profile white blanks?

Also, I'll be shipping your diodes and keycap on Tuesday (monday is a holiday)

Thanks. The legends on stormtrooper also look a bit thinner, but should do the trick. Let me know when that set is available though, as I would gladly buy one.

As for the blanks, do you know where I could get some? I looked around and couldn't find any with the keys I want.

[pixelpusher]

So, here's an album of my build in a Tex case:
http://imgur.com/gallery/0AR3D

I did make 1 little mistake that I may fix down the road... I put the capslock switch in the wrong spot   I don't usually use stepped caps, BUT I DO NOW.     I'm currently using capslock as the function key, so it's not ideal, but oh well.  If I get bored some day I'll desolder it and scootch it over to the next hole.

For getting the firmware working and cutomized I used:

• This thread (good info on the 5th and 6th pages) for the specifics of the firmware and
• Another post https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82935.0 for info on how to get a compiling environment up and running in Windows.

I used the QMK git deposit for the S60RGB that doodersbrother linked (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB) and added in the #define RGBLIGHT_ANIMATIONS line in the config.h file, as deductivemonkee so cleverly suggested.

Great community support here!

Looks good! Could you post pics of the bottom?

Here ya go:

[deductivemonkee]

So, here's an album of my build in a Tex case:
http://imgur.com/gallery/0AR3D

I did make 1 little mistake that I may fix down the road... I put the capslock switch in the wrong spot   I don't usually use stepped caps, BUT I DO NOW.     I'm currently using capslock as the function key, so it's not ideal, but oh well.  If I get bored some day I'll desolder it and scootch it over to the next hole.

For getting the firmware working and cutomized I used:

• This thread (good info on the 5th and 6th pages) for the specifics of the firmware and
• Another post https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82935.0 for info on how to get a compiling environment up and running in Windows.

I used the QMK git deposit for the S60RGB that doodersbrother linked (https://github.com/jbyoung/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/S60RGB) and added in the #define RGBLIGHT_ANIMATIONS line in the config.h file, as deductivemonkee so cleverly suggested.

Great community support here!

Looks good! Could you post pics of the bottom?

Here ya go:

(Attachment Link)


(Attachment Link)


(Attachment Link)

This makes my desire for an acrylic bottom even greater 

[deductivemonkee]

doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?

[pixelpusher]

Quick question.  So I added in a split right shift, but I can't seem to figure out how to add it in with QMK. 

I tried to just add an extra declaration, (using KC_DEL as a holder here) but it says it's too many declarations:

KC_LSFT,         KC_Z,   KC_X,   KC_C,   KC_V,   KC_B,   KC_N,   KC_M,   KC_COMM,KC_DOT, KC_SLSH,    KC_RSFT,  KC_DEL,  \

says I gave it 63 instead of 62.  Ideas?  Thanks in advance.

[sosatran]

Anyone here get the HHKB option and mind sharing their keymap and hex file? Helping a friend setup his keyboard and I'm completely stumped on how to get it compiled correctly. Any help would be much appreciated!

[deductivemonkee]

Anyone here get the HHKB option and mind sharing their keymap and hex file? Helping a friend setup his keyboard and I'm completely stumped on how to get it compiled correctly. Any help would be much appreciated!

Set any unused keys to KC_NO.

[pixelpusher]

Quick question.  So I added in a split right shift, but I can't seem to figure out how to add it in with QMK. 

I tried to just add an extra declaration, (using KC_DEL as a holder here) but it says it's too many declarations:

KC_LSFT,         KC_Z,   KC_X,   KC_C,   KC_V,   KC_B,   KC_N,   KC_M,   KC_COMM,KC_DOT, KC_SLSH,    KC_RSFT,  KC_DEL,  \

says I gave it 63 instead of 62.  Ideas?  Thanks in advance.

Oh, I see now, I have to add the key  k3c declaration in the S60RBG.h file (right now it goes k3a, k3b, k3d)    Man, how did I not see that file.  It explains a lot!

[doodersbrother]

doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?

The board is already at the max for power consumption on usb 2.0 ports. Although if you happened to be using a usb 3.0 port you could hypothetically pull DOUT, VCC, and GND off of RGB10, if anything happens as a result of this it's completely unsupported, and entirely your own responsibility.

[deductivemonkee]

doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?

The board is already at the max for power consumption on usb 2.0 ports. Although if you happened to be using a usb 3.0 port you could hypothetically pull DOUT, VCC, and GND off of RGB10, if anything happens as a result of this it's completely unsupported, and entirely your own responsibility.

How does the s65 RGB PCB have so many more LEDs then?

[doodersbrother]

doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?

The board is already at the max for power consumption on usb 2.0 ports. Although if you happened to be using a usb 3.0 port you could hypothetically pull DOUT, VCC, and GND off of RGB10, if anything happens as a result of this it's completely unsupported, and entirely your own responsibility.

How does the s65 RGB PCB have so many more LEDs then?

The brightness of the LEDs is being limited in firmware, so overall it uses the same power, but each LED is not as bright.

[deductivemonkee]

doodersbrother, if it is possible, how would I go about adding more rgb leds?

The board is already at the max for power consumption on usb 2.0 ports. Although if you happened to be using a usb 3.0 port you could hypothetically pull DOUT, VCC, and GND off of RGB10, if anything happens as a result of this it's completely unsupported, and entirely your own responsibility.

How does the s65 RGB PCB have so many more LEDs then?

The brightness of the LEDs is being limited in firmware, so overall it uses the same power, but each LED is not as bright.

That makes sense. Keep me posted on the s65 RGB

[agbockus]

Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...

[deductivemonkee]

Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...

Look a few posts up about the .H file. That was for the left split shift but same idea.

[pixelpusher]

Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...

I'll post the code soon. Eating

[agbockus]

Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...

Look a few posts up about the .H file. That was for the left split shift but same idea.

D'oh! I was reading through posts last night before those were posted...and didn't post about the exact same issue. Ya know, to try and figure it out myself! and not look dumb!...and now I look dumb. Haha thank you for the heads up.

Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...

I'll post the code soon. Eating

Perfect, thanks! I added in the k3c key in the .h before the k3d in the second group of args, but putting it into the first group (and matching up the HHKB layout that's set up beneath it, for reference) it comes after, so I think that's where I'm getting confused. 

For reference, here is what my non-working-layout currently looks like: http://pastebin.com/5PTkmZSt

[pixelpusher]

Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...

Look a few posts up about the .H file. That was for the left split shift but same idea.

D'oh! I was reading through posts last night before those were posted...and didn't post about the exact same issue. Ya know, to try and figure it out myself! and not look dumb!...and now I look dumb. Haha thank you for the heads up.

Hey, does anyone know how to enable the HHKB style FN key on a custom layout? I've tried renaming KEYMAP to KEYMAP_HHKB in the keymap.c and a few other things, but I can never get that split-shift FN key to work...

I'll post the code soon. Eating

Perfect, thanks! I added in the k3c key in the .h before the k3d in the second group of args, but putting it into the first group (and matching up the HHKB layout that's set up beneath it, for reference) it comes after, so I think that's where I'm getting confused. 

For reference, here is what my non-working-layout currently looks like: http://pastebin.com/5PTkmZSt

Probably more than one way to skin a cat, as in every programming problem, but this worked for me.

Line 21 starts the keymap in S60RGB.h (located in the main folder, qmk_firmware/keyboards/S60RGB):


I chose to skip k3c and added k3e.  So you'll see k3a, k3b, k3d, k3e
For the array (next block), that translates to: k3a, k3b, KC_NO, k3d, k3e

Then, in the keymap.c file (located in keymap folder) at like 28 starts the base layer keymapping:


You can see in the third row that KC_RSFT comes just before whatever you want to assign to your Fn key.  I placed the comment there for you to see.

Then you have to accomodate for the extra key from the config.h file in the additional layers as well.  Here is my Function layer block:


Besides the custom key functions I have in there, you can see where I added an extra KC_TRNS at the end of the 3rd row for both blocks.  KC_TRNS just allows transparency down to the next layer and fills up the array, making up for the extra declaration.

If I were you I would start with just something like KC_DEL on the last key to make sure it works, then start adding in functionality... or just map it to MO(_FL) which is already assigned to the menu key in the default firmware mapping.

Hope that helps.

[agbockus]

[...]
Hope that helps.

This helped a lot, k3e was exactly what I needed! Thank you so much!

[jisaak]

I am very disappointed right now. It seems like I have an issue with the LEDs so I wrote  sentraq an email (info@sentraq.com) on 1/16 but didn't received any response.

This is what I sent them:

Hi Sentraq-Team,

I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.

I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?

I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.

What can I do?

Best regards,
Martin Brandl

Here the video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWT0VHdjVORkZTdXVjWmdJMk5ybEdUb2FaUEVz
and my solderd PCB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWQlRHbjVsZFZ0Q0d3Q21ZWHJsdEwwblhVbjJN

Any suggestions?

[deductivemonkee]

I am very disappointed right now. It seems like I have an issue with the LEDs so I wrote  sentraq an email (info@sentraq.com) on 1/16 but didn't received any response.

This is what I sent them:

Hi Sentraq-Team,

I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.

I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?

I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.

What can I do?

Best regards,
Martin Brandl

Here the video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWT0VHdjVORkZTdXVjWmdJMk5ybEdUb2FaUEVz
and my solderd PCB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWQlRHbjVsZFZ0Q0d3Q21ZWHJsdEwwblhVbjJN

Any suggestions?

Did you test everything before soldering? LEDs, backlight LEDs, and switch holes?

[jisaak]

Did you test everything before soldering? LEDs, backlight LEDs, and switch holes?

No, I didn't. Forgot to say that I don't have Switch-LEDs, only the standard backlight LEDs which comes with the board.

[doodersbrother]

I am very disappointed right now. It seems like I have an issue with the LEDs so I wrote  sentraq an email (info@sentraq.com) on 1/16 but didn't received any response.

This is what I sent them:

Hi Sentraq-Team,

I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.

I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?

I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.

What can I do?

Best regards,
Martin Brandl

Here the video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWT0VHdjVORkZTdXVjWmdJMk5ybEdUb2FaUEVz
and my solderd PCB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWQlRHbjVsZFZ0Q0d3Q21ZWHJsdEwwblhVbjJN

Any suggestions?

Hey, I don't remember getting an email. I must have missed it I'll look into it and get back to you. Sorry about that!

[jisaak]

I am very disappointed right now. It seems like I have an issue with the LEDs so I wrote  sentraq an email (info@sentraq.com) on 1/16 but didn't received any response.

This is what I sent them:

Hi Sentraq-Team,

I was on the Group-Buy on Geekhack for the S60-X RGB kit. It looks like something with the RGB Backlight doesn't work properly. For example when the backlight is in breathing mode, the right LEDs are breathing as expected whereas the left LEDs are randomly blinking - I attached a video to demonstrated that. The other modes are all doing weird things as well.

I also attached a picture showing my soldering - can you spot any issue there?

I am using a QMK based firmware as recommended at Geekhack and already tryed several of them - the issue is always the same.

What can I do?

Best regards,
Martin Brandl

Here the video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWT0VHdjVORkZTdXVjWmdJMk5ybEdUb2FaUEVz
and my solderd PCB: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w8Eyc12QRWQlRHbjVsZFZ0Q0d3Q21ZWHJsdEwwblhVbjJN

Any suggestions?

Hey, I don't remember getting an email. I must have missed it I'll look into it and get back to you. Sorry about that!

Its okay, hope to hear from you soon. I realy enjoy your kit, only the backlight issue is causing me pain...

[parityb1t]

Just wondering, any plans for a second GB of this kit anytime soon :3 ?

[deductivemonkee]

Just wondering, any plans for a second GB of this kit anytime soon :3 ?

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/sentraq-60-diy-keyboard-kit?mode=guest

[parityb1t]

Just wondering, any plans for a second GB of this kit anytime soon :3 ?

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/sentraq-60-diy-keyboard-kit?mode=guest

I did cave in a bought the massdrop GB I just thought I could save a little money as the same drop here is for $99 rather than $120 and wouldn't mind waiting

[cr0n1c]

OK, after all the issues I've been seeing with this PCB I decided to test out the entire board before I started soldering. I own a multi-meter and I just finished testing the vias (holes) for the switches and I got all of them to make the needle move except for three areas. Now I'm not sure if this bad, because I'm also not sure of exactly what I'm doing. What I mean by that is that I don't know what setting to put the multimeter on...I just fooled around with the dial until I could get the needle to move when I put the leads across the vias. So, in short, I didn't get much, if any movement on the needle with the backspace key, the split backspace key and the 1u split right shift key. I have posted pictures of the front and back of the PCB. All looks good to me. What should my next step be?

http://imgur.com/a/IeaN5

P.S. I feel defeated because I don't ever get time to solder at home (I have a 1 year old) and now I'm on a work trip (by myself) and this is the only board that I brought to work on. I'm itching to solder, but I don't think I can if this is an issue. I should have brought my HOLTITEs with me so I could have tested it. Lesson learned.

[deductivemonkee]

OK, after all the issues I've been seeing with this PCB I decided to test out the entire board before I started soldering. I own a multi-meter and I just finished testing the vias (holes) for the switches and I got all of them to make the needle move except for three areas. Now I'm not sure if this bad, because I'm also not sure of exactly what I'm doing. What I mean by that is that I don't know what setting to put the multimeter on...I just fooled around with the dial until I could get the needle to move when I put the leads across the vias. So, in short, I didn't get much, if any movement on the needle with the backspace key, the split backspace key and the 1u split right shift key. I have posted pictures of the front and back of the PCB. All looks good to me. What should my next step be?

http://imgur.com/a/IeaN5

P.S. I feel defeated because I don't ever get time to solder at home (I have a 1 year old) and now I'm on a work trip (by myself) and this is the only board that I brought to work on. I'm itching to solder, but I don't think I can if this is an issue. I should have brought my HOLTITEs with me so I could have tested it. Lesson learned.

Just take a bent paperclip and short each pair of holes, it comes pre-flashed with firmware. I personally don't use a multimeter, so I can't offer any advice for that.

[cr0n1c]

Just take a bent paperclip and short each pair of holes, it comes pre-flashed with firmware. I personally don't use a multimeter, so I can't offer any advice for that.

I will admit that I should have thought of that myself. Hah. Thanks for your help.

Ok, I shorted those holes and they are not registering any keypresses. All the other ones that I verified as good with the multimeter are good when I short them. So does this mean I have a dud?

[deductivemonkee]

Just take a bent paperclip and short each pair of holes, it comes pre-flashed with firmware. I personally don't use a multimeter, so I can't offer any advice for that.

I will admit that I should have thought of that myself. Hah. Thanks for your help.

Ok, I shorted those holes and they are not registering any keypresses. All the other ones that I verified as good with the multimeter are good when I short them. So does this mean I have a dud?

With the pre-flashed firmware split keys and extra keys are not assigned to anything, and will not output keycodes. It sounds like it is a good PCB.

[cr0n1c]

With the pre-flashed firmware split keys and extra keys are not assigned to anything, and will not output keycodes. It sounds like it is a good PCB.

Thanks for all your help. Is there a link to what the default keymapping looks like? I've compared my PCB to the layout shown on massdrop and they do not match up. For some reason the backspace key is mapped as being already split and the Win/Fn keys are swapped.

[doodersbrother]

There's a fixed firmware available on my site. Go to Sentraq.com then info then firmware.

[jisaak]

Can anyone tell me whats the qmk keycode for a right click to show the menu in windows? I tried KC_MENU without success

[a-c]

Can anyone tell me whats the qmk keycode for a right click to show the menu in windows? I tried KC_MENU without success

Try KC_APP