Replacement Key Stabilizer Sleeve Bearing

[hifiguy99]

Hi all,

I am restoring an old Alps keyboard and have lost one of the enter key/space bar stabilizer sleeve bearing insert things that press into the switch plate.

The bigger end OD is 7.5mm or about 0.3", this end doesn't matter as much
The smaller end OD is 6.3mm or about 1/4", the shorter end OD is what presses into the switchplate
the length is again 7.5mm or about 0.3"
the ID is 3.5mm or about 0.14"

I have a Prusa and some nylon filament that I could print out the stabilizer with, have people printed out stabilizers like mine without having scratchiness or poor key feel? In general my 3d prints from that printer can be rough sometimes so I'd prefer to have a non 3d  printed part.

Anyone know of any replacement ones?

Attached is a picture of it.

Thanks

[nevin]

you could print the hole smaller and drill it out. probably be smoother than the 3d printed walls. should be fine for the part you need to replace.

or scavenge from another board.

[Leslieann]

It's pretty common to ream, drill and sand 3d printed parts.
The other option is have it resin printed, that tends to be a bit nicer.

[hvontres]

If you can send me a decent sketch, I might be able to turn some out of nylon or delrin this weekend and sent them over. PM me if that would work for you.

[hifiguy99]

you could print the hole smaller and drill it out. probably be smoother than the 3d printed walls. should be fine for the part you need to replace.

or scavenge from another board.

It's pretty common to ream, drill and sand 3d printed parts.
The other option is have it resin printed, that tends to be a bit nicer.

Your guys are probably right. I bought a drill bit that matches the ID and I have some sketches, I will see what works best.

My printer is not liking the nylon filament and it keeps jamming/quitting halfway through the print. I will tighten the extruder and check again tomorrow. Could also be the filament so I put it in some desiccant.

If you can send me a decent sketch, I might be able to turn some out of nylon or delrin this weekend and sent them over. PM me if that would work for you.

I have some sketches attached but let me see if I can print them myself first and/or make refinements. Thanks for the offer!

[hvontres]

you could print the hole smaller and drill it out. probably be smoother than the 3d printed walls. should be fine for the part you need to replace.

or scavenge from another board.

It's pretty common to ream, drill and sand 3d printed parts.
The other option is have it resin printed, that tends to be a bit nicer.

No problem.  Sometimes the old subtrative methods still work best Glad to have both a shop and a 3d printer though

Your guys are probably right. I bought a drill bit that matches the ID and I have some sketches, I will see what works best.

My printer is not liking the nylon filament and it keeps jamming/quitting halfway through the print. I will tighten the extruder and check again tomorrow. Could also be the filament so I put it in some desiccant.

If you can send me a decent sketch, I might be able to turn some out of nylon or delrin this weekend and sent them over. PM me if that would work for you.

I have some sketches attached but let me see if I can print them myself first and/or make refinements. Thanks for the offer!

[Leslieann]

My printer is not liking the nylon filament and it keeps jamming/quitting halfway through the print. I will tighten the extruder and check again tomorrow. Could also be the filament so I put it in some desiccant.

Nylon LOOOOVES water.
Even in modestly humid environment some types will water saturate to the point of problems within an hour out of the bag (Taulman 910 being one).

As for the shop and 3d printer, like you said though, it's nice to at least have the option.

Oh, if you can't get the nylon to work, try PET or ABS or last resort some PLA. Reamed with some grease it should be fine. Nylon would be better and it may not last forever but really it's not mandatory so long as you throw in some grease.

[hifiguy99]

Nylon LOOOOVES water.
Even in modestly humid environment some types will water saturate to the point of problems within an hour out of the bag (Taulman 910 being one).

As for the shop and 3d printer, like you said though, it's nice to at least have the option.

Oh, if you can't get the nylon to work, try PET or ABS or last resort some PLA. Reamed with some grease it should be fine. Nylon would be better and it may not last forever but really it's not mandatory so long as you throw in some grease.

Well ****. I am using a Taulman 910 I guess its time to create a desiccant box lol, I have been meaning to do so.

Anyways I did try to print it with the 910 nylon and it was messed up. So I gave up with that.

I did make some tweaks and try to print it out again but with PETG which worked actually quite well with some grease. I didn't even have to sand anything. However it fits loosely in the keyswitch plate. If I try printing the part just a smidge bigger to fit in the hole better it doesn't fit at all. Whatever, this will do.

Thanks everybody for the help. Attached is my final revision of the spacer if anyone ever needs it (which I doubt). The keyboard is a Copam K-430

[nevin]

awesome, glad you found a solution. thanks for sharing.

[Leslieann]

Well ****. I am using a Taulman 910 I guess its time to create a desiccant box lol, I have been meaning to do so.

Thanks everybody for the help.

Well then, at least you know part of the problem.

Glad you got it working.