Suggest a keyboard to go with Vortex PBT keycaps

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

Hey everybody.

First post here after longtime lurking.

Bought these keycaps from Massdrop:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/vortex-pbt-keycaps

Looking for a tenkeyless keyboard to fit them to. I've owned a couple mechanical keyboards before, Das Keyboard with MX Blues and Dell AT101 with Alps.

Looking to go to a linear switch, probably MX Reds.

I type in Dvorak.

Looked at the WASD Barebones, love that it's got DIP switch for hardwire Dvorak, but the absence of such a feature is not by any means a deal breaker.

KBC Poker II has looked pretty good to me as well.

Kinda new to real obsessive geekdom in this domain, so be patient with me. What would you suggest?

 

[SpAmRaY]

KUL seems to be a solid board but I have not personally used one

http://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=keyed_up_labs,tenkeyless&pid=es87u_cl_bbb_al

Or you could find a CM QFR

You might also find a phantom for sell, it is a community derived custom TKL that is fully programmable through firmware

[cruzin]

I'd also recommend the KUL ES-87. It's a very solid, well-built TKL for a decent price.

I also bought the Vortex PBT caps from Massdrop and will be using them with my KUL.

[jameslr]

KBC Poker II has looked pretty good to me as well.

You do realize this keyboard (Poker II non-backlit) already has the aforementioned caps (Vortex PBT) on it from the factory, right?

[Arcoril]

Whichever keyboard you decide to go with, keep in mind that there are occasionally issues with Costar stabilizers and thick keycaps where they sometimes rub against the inside edge of the keycap. I've seen solutions that range from shaving the inside of the keycap to swapping around stabilizer wires. Apparently not all of the wires are created equally and their clearance varies. Some people have even resorted to using a wire bender to form their own stabilizer bars out of music wire.

Alternatively, you could get a keyboard with Cherry stabilizers which don't have the clearance problems. There are issues with mushiness when bottoming out, though. A simple modification can get rid of this, but you won't easily be able to do it if you're buying them pre-installed on a plate mounted board without the proper cutouts for removal.

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

KBC Poker II has looked pretty good to me as well.

You do realize this keyboard (Poker II non-backlit) already has the aforementioned caps (Vortex PBT) on it from the factory, right?

Except, I opted for the side-printed blank on top version, which also gets rid of the horrible "Enjoy Your Feelings" spacebar printing.

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

Whichever keyboard you decide to go with, keep in mind that there are occasionally issues with Costar stabilizers and thick keycaps where they sometimes rub against the inside edge of the keycap. I've seen solutions that range from shaving the inside of the keycap to swapping around stabilizer wires. Apparently not all of the wires are created equally and their clearance varies. Some people have even resorted to using a wire bender to form their own stabilizer bars out of music wire.

Alternatively, you could get a keyboard with Cherry stabilizers which don't have the clearance problems. There are issues with mushiness when bottoming out, though. A simple modification can get rid of this, but you won't easily be able to do it if you're buying them pre-installed on a plate mounted board without the proper cutouts for removal.

Arcoril—

That's just the kind of information I wouldn't know, but need to know. Thanks so much.

I did read something about the WASD barebones showing visible stabilizers even after the keycaps are installed. Anybody with direct experience that can confirm/deny?

[Oobly]

The KUL ES-87 and Poker II are great choices. The KuL is not programmable and doesn't have Dvorak option, so you would have to use a software solution. The Poker II is programmable so you can program the Dvorak layout in and set it as the default layer.

[jameslr]

Except, I opted for the side-printed blank on top version, which also gets rid of the horrible "Enjoy Your Feelings" spacebar printing.

Aw, shame. You should have gotten the Leopold Thick PBT from widebasket on ebay. They're amazing caps for the price. Side printed, black, thick PBT and cherry profile. So elegant looking imo. That being said, the Vortex look decent except I don't care for the font. OEM profile is ok, but I'm liking cherry profile a lot more lately.

[SpAmRaY]

Except, I opted for the side-printed blank on top version, which also gets rid of the horrible "Enjoy Your Feelings" spacebar printing.

Aw, shame. You should have gotten the Leopold Thick PBT from widebasket on ebay. They're amazing caps for the price. Side printed, black, thick PBT and cherry profile. So elegant looking imo. That being said, the Vortex look decent except I don't care for the font. OEM profile is ok, but I'm liking cherry profile a lot more lately.

I will also vouch for the side printed leopold caps from widebasket on ebay.

[ComradeSniper]

I'm personally very fond of 60% layouts so I would recommend the Poker II.

[Puddsy]

KUL ES-87 since it's the best keyboard

[SL89]

WASD V2 Barebones, as you already have the caps you can get a barebones board with pretty much whatever switches you want and save some money.

[absyrd]

WASD V2 Barebones, as you already have the caps you can get a barebones board with pretty much whatever switches you want and save some money.

Yep. You might as well.

You kinda did this whole thing backwards, though! Keyboard first next time!

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

WASD site seems to be down today. I haven't been able to access it all day.

[cruzin]

WASD site seems to be down today. I haven't been able to access it all day.

It's been down since last night for me.

[Arcoril]

Whichever keyboard you decide to go with, keep in mind that there are occasionally issues with Costar stabilizers and thick keycaps where they sometimes rub against the inside edge of the keycap. I've seen solutions that range from shaving the inside of the keycap to swapping around stabilizer wires. Apparently not all of the wires are created equally and their clearance varies. Some people have even resorted to using a wire bender to form their own stabilizer bars out of music wire.

Alternatively, you could get a keyboard with Cherry stabilizers which don't have the clearance problems. There are issues with mushiness when bottoming out, though. A simple modification can get rid of this, but you won't easily be able to do it if you're buying them pre-installed on a plate mounted board without the proper cutouts for removal.

Arcoril—

That's just the kind of information I wouldn't know, but need to know. Thanks so much.

I did read something about the WASD barebones showing visible stabilizers even after the keycaps are installed. Anybody with direct experience that can confirm/deny?

That's correct. WASD boards use Costar stabilizers. Costar stabilizers have the wire above the plate and attach to the key via white hoops that hook onto the bar. Cherry stabilizers are indicated by two black + attachments on either side of the switch and have the wire below the plate.

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

So the stabilizers on the Poker II are Cherry, right?

[SpAmRaY]

So the stabilizers on the Poker II are Cherry, right?

Yes

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

Well, I decided to thrust myself fully into the compact realm and ordered a Poker II. 

Can't wait!

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

The keyboard should arrive tomorrow, I'll give y'all an update as soon as I've had some time with it. 

Looks like the keycaps won't ship until September, so it may be a while before I can experiment with customization.

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

Got the Poker II today.

I'm impressed! It feels so solid! Probably owing to the dual layer PCB and the plate mounted switches. The MX reds are great, and I think I will like them even better when I am able to add the O-rings that I have.

Mine came without the "Enjoy Your Feeling" printing on the spacebar, which I am ecstatic about. Because of that, I really am tempted to leave the stock keys since they have the Fn layer legends on the front of the keycaps.

Haven't messed with the DIP switches or programming yet.

I love how compact it is, and already feel a seemingly disproportionately large ergonomic improvement from being able to bring the mouse in closer.

In short, my initial impressions are that I love this keyboard! 

[rowdy]

Good to hear

I was surprised how much desk space was freed when I started using my HHKB.

Sometimes now I alternate between Model M and HHKB, partly for giggles, although I do have to rearrange my desk to fit the Model M )

[Oobly]

Great!

Hmmm... I don't really know whether I'd keep the stock caps on or put the extra set on as soon as it arrives. On the one hand, the stock caps have the Fn layer printed on them, but on the other you can feel the legends on the top of the stock keys. If you replace the caps, the originals won't get worn and you can keep the resale value of the board up, but on the other hand, PBT wears so slowly that I don't think it really matters... So, I really don't know what I would do.

They are both really nice keycaps. Congratulations, you have an excellent keyboard and 2 sets of fantastic keycaps to choose from. 

P.S. - Actually I have decided what I would do. I'd use the stock caps for a bit, then design my own Fn layer, program it in and swap to the side printed caps

[RoyceMcCutcheon]

Maybe I'll just use the other keycaps as an excuse to buy another new board, isn't that the true Geekhack way?