Converting and programming Apple boards

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Hello! I have an Apple adjustable and Apple M0116 that I was looking to convert to USB and program with a function layer as well as remapping.

Can I use the current PCBs or will I have to rewire both boards? Also, is the teensy the only way to so this? Because they are kind of expensive.
Any other help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[fohat.digs]

Also, is the teensy the only way to so this? Because they are kind of expensive.

What? A teensy is cheaper than a used straight ADB-to-USB converter and far more versatile!

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Also, is the teensy the only way to so this? Because they are kind of expensive.

What? A teensy is cheaper than a used straight ADB-to-USB converter and far more versatile!

Well in comparison they really aren't that expensive. What I ment to say is, "Is there a free way to do this or will I have to order a teensy."
I don't want a converter because I want to be able to program a function layer and remap keys. My main concern is, will I have to direct wire the board or can I use the existing PCB?

[bueller]

I don't think you'll be able to use the PCB without some very crafty work, probably easier to just matrix wire them. They should be plate mounted anyway so just rip the PCB off after de-soldering the switches and then you can get onto re-wiring for the teensy.

Will be doing similarly with a M0115 shortly so I'll let you know how I go!

[Findecanor]

They should be plate mounted anyway so just rip the PCB off after de-soldering the switches and then you can get onto re-wiring for the teensy.

Stop right there! You can't do that. The Alps switches on the M0116 need to have both a PCB and a plate. The plate is just to keep the switches in place on the PCB.

The low-profile Alps switches on the Apple Adjustable Keyboard are are different than the "ordinary" full-size Alps switches. They are PCB-mounted without a plate.

The easiest way to get them working with a PCB would be to build a ADB-to-USB converter. You need a Teensy 2.0, Hasu's firmware, some cables, solder and a soldering iron plus maybe a simple box to put the Teensy in. ADB cables and sockets are ordinary mini-DIN which should be readily available. ADB cables are identical to S-Video cables.

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

They should be plate mounted anyway so just rip the PCB off after de-soldering the switches and then you can get onto re-wiring for the teensy.

Stop right there! You can't do that. The Alps switches on the M0116 need to have both a PCB and a plate. The plate is just to keep the switches in place on the PCB.

The low-profile Alps switches on the Apple Adjustable Keyboard are are different than the "ordinary" full-size Alps switches. They are PCB-mounted without a plate.

The easiest way to get them working with a PCB would be to build a ADB-to-USB converter. You need a Teensy 2.0, Hasu's firmware, some cables, solder and a soldering iron plus maybe a simple box to put the Teensy in. ADB cables and sockets are ordinary mini-DIN which should be readily available. ADB cables are identical to S-Video cables.

Will I be able to program a function layer though with Soarer's converter? A converter would probably be best though as I only need one for both boards. Also thank you for that information! I do not have the original cable and was not aware that S-video cables are the same.

[bueller]

They should be plate mounted anyway so just rip the PCB off after de-soldering the switches and then you can get onto re-wiring for the teensy.

Stop right there! You can't do that. The Alps switches on the M0116 need to have both a PCB and a plate. The plate is just to keep the switches in place on the PCB.

Woops, sorry about that! The only Apple boards I've seen have been fine to use without a PCB!

They should be plate mounted anyway so just rip the PCB off after de-soldering the switches and then you can get onto re-wiring for the teensy.

Stop right there! You can't do that. The Alps switches on the M0116 need to have both a PCB and a plate. The plate is just to keep the switches in place on the PCB.

The low-profile Alps switches on the Apple Adjustable Keyboard are are different than the "ordinary" full-size Alps switches. They are PCB-mounted without a plate.

The easiest way to get them working with a PCB would be to build a ADB-to-USB converter. You need a Teensy 2.0, Hasu's firmware, some cables, solder and a soldering iron plus maybe a simple box to put the Teensy in. ADB cables and sockets are ordinary mini-DIN which should be readily available. ADB cables are identical to S-Video cables.

Will I be able to program a function layer though with Soarer's converter? A converter would probably be best though as I only need one for both boards. Also thank you for that information! I do not have the original cable and was not aware that S-video cables are the same.

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=17458.0

Reading the features it seems like Soarer's converter is re-mappable. Might be a better option for you.

[Findecanor]

Woops, sorry about that! The only Apple boards I've seen have been fine to use without a PCB!

You were probably thinking of lowpoly's mod of a vintage Macintosh keyboard. That one has other switches that were suspended on the plate.
BTW, that keyboard did not even talk ADB but some even older protocol, which made it worth converting

Reading the features it seems like Soarer's converter is re-mappable. Might be a better option for you.

Soarer's converter is for PC protocols (XT, AT, PS/2 and IBM terminal), it does not support ADB.

Hasu's converter has a function layer. You activate it by holding the Power key. The keymap is like the function layer on the HHKB with the numeric row for F1..F12, backspace becoming Del, \ becoming Ins and a HHKB-like star of arrow keys on the right side of the keyboard. The arrow keys become Home/End/PgUp/PgDn.
If you want to map it some other way, the source code is available.

BTW, I got myself a M0118 keyboard today (ISO version of the M0116). I did not think before that Alps could feel this nice.

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Woops, sorry about that! The only Apple boards I've seen have been fine to use without a PCB!

You were probably thinking of lowpoly's mod of a vintage Macintosh keyboard. That one has other switches that were suspended on the plate.
BTW, that keyboard did not even talk ADB but some even older protocol, which made it worth converting

Reading the features it seems like Soarer's converter is re-mappable. Might be a better option for you.

Soarer's converter is for PC protocols (XT, AT, PS/2 and IBM terminal), it does not support ADB.

Hasu's converter has a function layer. You activate it by holding the Power key. The keymap is like the function layer on the HHKB with the numeric row for F1..F12, backspace becoming Del, \ becoming Ins and a HHKB-like star of arrow keys on the right side of the keyboard. The arrow keys become Home/End/PgUp/PgDn.
If you want to map it some other way, the source code is available.

BTW, I got myself a M0118 keyboard today (ISO version of the M0116). I did not think before that Alps could feel this nice.

How does Hasu's converter compare to the Griffin iMate? I can get an iMate for $20. Also, funny that you mention that as I have a M0110A that I am converting with LowPoly's mod. And nice find on the M0118! I agree with you, the Alps switches on it feel amazing.

[hasu]

I've never had iMate unfortunately, it is rare and pricy here, 40$ at least. If you can get it for $20, go with it. I didn't hear any harsh complains on iMate, users seem to be happy with it.

iMate supports also ADB pointing device and multiple keyboards with daisy chain connection while my converter doesn't. You can use only one keyboard at one time. Go with my ADB converter only If you need soruce, layout remap or other features it offers.

IIRC, M0110A has two versions at least, Mitsumi and Alps while M0110 has only Alps. I prefer the vintage linear Alps but some love Mitsumi. These switches are heavry a bit for my daily use, though.
BTW, my M0110 converter supports also M0110A. This is an option if someone want to retain its internal untouched.

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

I've never had iMate unfortunately, it is rare and pricy here, 40$ at least. If you can get it for $20, go with it. I didn't hear any harsh complains on iMate, users seem to be happy with it.

iMate supports also ADB pointing device and multiple keyboards with daisy chain connection while my converter doesn't. You can use only one keyboard at one time. Go with my ADB converter only If you need soruce, layout remap or other features it offers.

IIRC, M0110A has two versions at least, Mitsumi and Alps while M0110 has only Alps. I prefer the vintage linear Alps but some love Mitsumi. These switches are heavry a bit for my daily use, though.
BTW, my M0110 converter supports also M0110A. This is an option if someone want to retain its internal untouched.

I took your advice and just went with the iMate. For the M0116 and Apple Adjustable, I am going to restore them and use the iMate. For the M0110A I plan on doing lowpoly's mod so it has NKRO and is more quiet. And my M0110A has early linear Alps. Here is the M0116 after being cleaned. I soaked the caps in water and dropped in a denture tab. After 15 minutes they look good as new. I used a McClean Magic eraser for the body and it cleaned up pretty well except for the yellowing. Here is some pics.

[tufty]

How does Hasu's converter compare to the Griffin iMate? I can get an iMate for $20. Also, funny that you mention that as I have a M0110A that I am converting with LowPoly's mod. And nice find on the M0118! I agree with you, the Alps switches on it feel amazing.

The iMate is perfectly functional, but isn't programmable at the controller end.  20 bucks makes it a good buy, and (at least) if you're using OSX you can remap to your heart's content at the computer end (but your remappings obviously won't follow the keyboard to another machine) either via OSX's keybindings mechanism, or using Ukelele.

hasu's converter requires a teensy and a bit of soldering, but you can remap at the keyboard end - your keyboard's layout sticks with your keyboard.  If you're willing to get down and dirty with a soldering iron and maybe a code editor, it's a better solution in that respect. The downside is that it currently deals with the ADB protocol via polling rather than interrupts, and so it occasionally (more than occasionally in my case, I type like a machine gun) drops keys.  Repeated keys are the worst offenders in that respect.  I've been meaning to fix that, but time is limited, as ever.

[tufty]

Replying to myself, but I just spent a bit of time remapping my UK model M0116 to match a part of the overlay I was running with hasu's converter.  Will probably work with any suitably similar model (M0118 etc) with some minor tweakage.

Requires KeyRemap4Macbook (and OSX, obviously), install as ~/Library/Application Support/KeyRemap4MacBook/private.xml

https://github.com/tufty/m0116-remap