Help for a newbie! Serious newbie! :)

[malnwas]

Hello everyone!

I am so happy to have found this forum! I am currently shopping for a mechanical keyboard since I'm bored with buying non-mechs and having all the letters on keycaps disappear within 90 or so days.  While this doesn't bother me much, it drives my local tech insane as he doesn't know the keyboard.    

I do put a lot of wear on a keyboard -- 10, 12, or more hours per day, 7 days/week/365.  I discovered early on that mech. keyboards seem to have a different Enter key than I'm used to.  I'm addicted to the backwards L Enter key.

I have found a couple of models that use this type Enter key, but I'm now stuck trying to shake out which Cherry MX switch would be best for me -- don't want keys that are too hard/stiff -- and the more reviews I read/watch on the differences still leaves me a bit confused.  I'm utterly confused as to which type Cherry MX color switches would benefit me most. (Amongst other issues.)

Can anyone suggest a good mechanical keyboard (would love "my" Enter key but NOT mandatory I suppose) that won't make me take out a loan to purchase? 

Appreciate any help you may offer me. 

Thanks,
 
Tess

[hwood34]

Which MX switch you want is totally up to you, whether you want lighter or heavier switches, tactile, clicky or no feedback (linear). And as for the enter, I think you're referring to a "big ass enter":

[Oobly]

Welcome to GeekHack!

And welcome to the wonderful world of mechanical keyboards. One of the great things about mechanicals is the variety of options, but it can be a bit daunting when you start out. We can help, but we need to narrow down your preferences a bit before we can recommend particular boards.

1. Full size, TKL or 60%. Do you use the number pad often or could you live without it? Many find the extra space of using a TenKeyLess (TKL) board beneficial since it gives more space on your desk and allows your mouse hand to be closer to your other hand and allows the main keyboard area to be more centred with respect to the display. A 60% board is even smaller (just the main typing area) and moves the arrow keys, edit keys and F keys onto a Fn layer that you access with a dedicated button.

2. Linear, Clicky or Tactile. Do you like the keys to make a clicking sound when they actuate (Clicky)? Or do you prefer slightly quieter keys, but still want to have some tactile feedback (change in pressure, Tactile) when the switch actuates? Or do you like smooth keys with no change in feel from top to bottom (Linear)?

3. Do you prefer softer keys (softer springs) or harder (harder springs)?

Once we know your preferences in these areas we can narrow down the possible options for you in terms of keyboards in the size you prefer with switches that match your type and hardness preference.

For keycaps you also have a few options, but the best in your situation would be doubleshot (where the characters are made from one colour of plastic and the main part of the keycap another, molded in a 2 part process) or dyesubbed (dye sublimated, where the dye of the character actually penetrates the material of the keycap so it doesn't wear off) legends. You can get keycaps in both types in many colours, so a colour preference would also help us narrow things down

As far as I know, all the modern boards made for the US market have the thin Enter key like the shift keys (ANSI layout), but in Europe we have something a bit similar to the "Big ass Enter" on our ISO layout boards. Do a quick Google Image search for "ISO keyboard layout" to see if that would suit you. They're harder to get in US, but it is possible.

[Defect]

Hello and welcome.

My switch recommendation will change depending on your primary use for the keyboard.

Generally speaking:

FPS Gaming: MX Linear (red/black)
Typing: Clicky (blue/green/white)
All Purpose: Tactile non-clicks (brown/clear/grey)



You will also have to pick between which type of switch you want.  The most popular switch is Cherry MX.  Topre keeps the Rubber Dome like feel, although it is much more refined and the keys will actuate half-way rather than at the bottom of the press.  ALPS are less common but are very nice as well.

Within Cherry MX, there are Four stem types:

Clicky (Blue/Green), which I would describe as...initial force required, followed by a sudden collapse.  Kind of like pressing your finger through a thin layer of ice.  Crisp feel with a high pitched click.  Cherry MX uses a two part plastic stem that slaps into itself...more detail upon request.

Soft Click (White), same as green and blue but often a more muted click.

Low tactile (brown), which uses a small bump at midpoint.  Similar feel to rubber domes, if you could move the tactility to midpoint rather than at the top.

High tactile (Clear/Grey), larger and more crisp bump than browns

Linear (Black/Red/Grey), smooth press as force increases due spring compression.


Within each stem type, color usually denotes the stock spring that supports the switch.

Light spring: Blue/Brown/Red
Heavy Spring: Green/White/Black
Clear Spring: Clear
Extra Heavy: Grey
Extra Extra Heavy: Superblack (and other exotic switches)


Don't want to overload you with too much so please feel free to post/PM any questions.  We've only scratched the surface.


Edit:
Here is a potato pic (before I got my Nikon and Macro Lens) of the common MX switches:


The switch housing for all MX are the same.  If you can see the little leg on the stems, that is where the tactility is defined.  Red and black are identical, as they both fall under linear (but they have a different spring).  Brown has a small bump.  Clear has a sharper and larger bump.  Blue uses a two-part mechanism to simulate a click, but otherwise has a very similar bump to browns.

[Novus]

hhkb type s

[dorkvader]

You can get a cherry MX keyboard, but it's quite easy to but the "big ass enter" on most of the IBM keyboards.

Ones I know that will fit it:
Wheelwriter and AT model F come with one.
122-key and 104-key (unsaver) model F
IBM 4704-200,300, and 400 (very rare)

IBM model M

Unicomp model M


I have a spare key itself if you want to get a KB and install it.

Just a thought.

[Smasher816]

As others have said, I believe an ISO keyboard layout is what you are looking for (unless you really do mean the big ass enter). Ohh and some advice - find a switch tester (CoolerMaster caries one). It doesn't matter how much you read online, you really have to try it to know what you will like. Ex: you might think a linear sounds good for gaming but then realize the lack of feedback feels strange, where instead you want a tactile bump. Or maybe you were scared of blues because they might be too loud but are actually not that bad in real life. Only trying it out will let you know for sure. The $10 there will save you from another $100 purchase to switch boards.

[malnwas]

Welcome to GeekHack!

And welcome to the wonderful world of mechanical keyboards. One of the great things about mechanicals is the variety of options, but it can be a bit daunting when you start out. We can help, but we need to narrow down your preferences a bit before we can recommend particular boards.

1. Full size, TKL or 60%. Do you use the number pad often or could you live without it? Many find the extra space of using a TenKeyLess (TKL) board beneficial since it gives more space on your desk and allows your mouse hand to be closer to your other hand and allows the main keyboard area to be more centred with respect to the display. A 60% board is even smaller (just the main typing area) and moves the arrow keys, edit keys and F keys onto a Fn layer that you access with a dedicated button.

***Require number pad.

2. Linear, Clicky or Tactile. Do you like the keys to make a clicking sound when they actuate (Clicky)? Or do you prefer slightly quieter keys, but still want to have some tactile feedback (change in pressure, Tactile) when the switch actuates? Or do you like smooth keys with no change in feel from top to bottom (Linear)?

*** Have no preference as to clicky sounds or not clicky sounds.  I think linear would be my choice.


3. Do you prefer softer keys (softer springs) or harder (harder springs)?

***Lean toward softer - I've been banging on keyboards for a long time, no need to aggravate my carpal tunnel I've managed to ignore for a decade or so.

Once we know your preferences in these areas we can narrow down the possible options for you in terms of keyboards in the size you prefer with switches that match your type and hardness preference.

For keycaps you also have a few options, but the best in your situation would be doubleshot (where the characters are made from one colour of plastic and the main part of the keycap another, molded in a 2 part process) or dyesubbed (dye sublimated, where the dye of the character actually penetrates the material of the keycap so it doesn't wear off) legends. You can get keycaps in both types in many colours, so a colour preference would also help us narrow things down

***Again, really no choice in colors of keycaps.  None!  Would be a plus for my local tech if the keys still had letters on them. 

As far as I know, all the modern boards made for the US market have the thin Enter key like the shift keys (ANSI layout), but in Europe we have something a bit similar to the "Big ass Enter" on our ISO layout boards. Do a quick Google Image search for "ISO keyboard layout" to see if that would suit you. They're harder to get in US, but it is possible.

***  Yes, it appears I like the ANSI layout better -- also found it referred to as Amiga?

Again, huge thanks to all the help thus far and I hope you can help me sort this out.  I know this bright yellow cheapie is due for the recycle bin any day now. 

Tess

[Oobly]

Amiga layout (Big Ass Enter):



Standard ANSI layout:



Standard European ISO layout:



There is also a US version of ISO which has a full size left shift.

The only 2 commonly made by mechanical keyboard manufacturers nowadays are standard ANSI and EU ISO.

From your answers I would suggest a Ducky Premier with MX Browns. It's a high quality, plate mounted full size board with dyesubbed thick PBT keycaps. MX Browns have light springs and a small tactile bump which lets you know when the switch actuates. Cherry MX switches actuate halfway through the keypress (at 2mm of the 4mm total movement).

The reason I didn't recommend Reds (light spring linear switch) is that it's easy to accidentally register a keypress with them and the small tactility of the Browns helps with this. I found I mistyped a lot more with Reds than Browns. However, if you feel that linear switches would still suit you better, then get one with Reds.

A Filco Majestouch 2 would also be a good choice, but they come with ABS keycaps with legends on that can wear off relatively quickly, so you'd have to get some aftermarket keycaps to solve this and that pushes the price up a good deal.

[itzmeluigi]

Ducky Zeros are available with "big ass enter" from Pchome.

Ducky DK2108L Zero
http://ecshweb.pchome.com.tw/global/en/v3.2/?q=ducky%20dk2108l&scope=all&page=1

Ducky DK2108LS Zero
http://ecshweb.pchome.com.tw/global/en/v3.2/?q=ducky&subq=dk2108ls

[Oobly]

Ducky Zeros are available with "big ass enter" from Pchome.

Ducky DK2108L Zero
http://ecshweb.pchome.com.tw/global/en/v3.2/?q=ducky%20dk2108l&scope=all&page=1

Ducky DK2108LS Zero
http://ecshweb.pchome.com.tw/global/en/v3.2/?q=ducky&subq=dk2108ls

That's an option, but the keycaps are UV printed or lasered ABS and the legends will eventually wear off. The problem then comes in trying to find a doubleshot or dyesubbed keycap set that will fit the Amiga style layout and that is going to be.... very difficult.

An option in this case is to buy one of these Ducky Zeros and then replace only the main alphanumeric keycaps. That way they should last a long time unless you hit the enter key a LOT and wear away the legend on it.

When I have a bit of time to spare I can have a better look for keycap options that may suit you in this case, or some others may recommend some.