I Got My Sampler, I Tested the Switches...Now What?

[notsonerd]

I still can't decide on what switch I want. I've definitely narrowed my choices down, though, and would really like some more in-depth opinions on my preferences.

Just a few notes for you guys:

-I'm a gamer. I definitely plan to stream the crap out of the games I play with commentary. If you don't already know what that means, I'll be using a mic.

-I will type a lot. The work I want to get into requires that I type a crap-ton. I'd like to enjoy typing on my keyboard to the fullest.

-RGB/multi-color backlighting is much preferred. I'm not talking about rainbows or Fruit Loops, but the option to change the backlight color is a big plus for me. It's not a requirement, however.
 I'm over multi-backlighting all of a sudden. Not sure how it happened, but I'd be happy with a single backlight scheme (preferably red).

-I would prefer to have a full-size keyboard. The number pad seems integral to what I'm interested in doing. I am not completely opposed to getting a TKL or 60% keyboard, though. I've read about the ergonomic benefits of using these sizes and they have piqued my interest. Changing my mind on a lot of things. TKL/60% feels like the way I wanna go now.

-Macros are nice, but optional.

I'll give a brief newb overview of my first impressions of each type of switch (clicky, tactile, and linear) and let you know which switch of each type I like most. Now on to my preferences.
First and foremost, I've learned that I love clicks. The blues, greens, and whites are freaking music to my ears. The greens and whites are noticeably harder to press, though. I'm probably not a heavy typist. And though I say I love the clicks, they are as loud as everyone says. I fear that any mic I use will pick up that sound. It's an unfortunate con to my desired workstation environment. O-rings didn't seem to help much with the sound, either. It's not enough for me to rule the switch out, however.

Preference One: Blues

Then I tried the tactile switches. These are the switches I was looking most forward to trying. I gotta say that I was a bit let-down, though. I had to rule out the clears and the greys since they require a bit more force, so browns seemed like the perfect compromise between clicky and linear on paper. They're not as loud as the blues, but louder than the reds; they have an overall audible and tactile feedback, but not as satisfying as the blues. They're kind of what I expected, but at the same time they're not. It's weird. They feel kind of "dirty." I read a description on this forum that I really liked. "Like there's sand suck in it or something." I have to admit, though--I like bottoming these out. The sound it produces is a nice substitute for the click that blues have. The O-rings mute that sound considerably. Don't think I'll ever use these with O-rings.

Preference Two: Browns

Finally, I have my say about the linear switches. These surprised me. Coming in I thought I'd hate how they feel. They're actually not so bad, and I can definitely see myself typing on these. Though they lack the tactile bump and click that supposedly makes typing easier/more enjoyable, they feel and even sound pleasant to my fingers and my ears--just not as much as the clicks or bumps. Since I'm pretty sure I'm a light typist, the reds feel like more my thing than the blacks. They feel very similar to the browns, but in place of that tactile bump, the reds have that resistance that becomes more apparent the farther down you press. It's not as satisfying as the tactile bump, and definitely not as nice as that wonderful click, but it works. I honestly thought I would rule linear switches out. Glad I got this sampler to test them first.

Preference Three: Reds
So yeah--turns out my preferences are pretty mainstream. The keyboard I've been eyeing just happens to only come in these switch-types, so that works out pretty well. Now I just need to make up my mind on a damn switch.

Any constructive comments, advice, or feedback is welcome. I'm not ruling out any other types of switches out there that I haven't tried. If you have any suggestions that you think fit my preferences, please share. As for any gripes about the keyboard I'm considering, I'm also open to feedback on that--just not opinions of the logo. I'm one of the seemingly few who are fine with it. Yeah, now you don't even have to click the link to know what keyboard I'm talking about. Oh well.

[Signature]

If you are going to stream your games you can mix out the high pitch sound that the blues make or something else. Just saying itīs fixable! Currently there is only one company that makes rgb Keyboards and that is as you mentioned Corsair. If you arenīt in a rush to get a keyboard I would wait until someone else releases their rgb or Corsair patches the software to control the lights since itīs really buggy atm.

[notsonerd]

If you are going to stream your games you can mix out the high pitch sound that the blues make or something else. Just saying itīs fixable! Currently there is only one company that makes rgb Keyboards and that is as you mentioned Corsair. If you arenīt in a rush to get a keyboard I would wait until someone else releases their rgb or Corsair patches the software to control the lights since itīs really buggy atm.

Can I edit out the sound in a live-stream? I'll most likely be streaming on an online application like Twitch.

The backlighting doesn't have to be RGB. Multi-color is fine, too. The Ducky Shine 4 has caught my eye, but it isn't out yet. Logitech and Razer have also responded to Corsair's RGB release, but I feel like they won't be up-to-par. As for Corsair's software, I don't mind sticking to the backlighting presets. And I have to say that the dedicated media keys on Corsair's K70 is a big plus. That volume rocker will definitely get its money's-worth.

I'm not in too much of a rush, but I'd prefer to get a dedicated keyboard within a month's time.

[Signature]

If you are going to stream your games you can mix out the high pitch sound that the blues make or something else. Just saying itīs fixable! Currently there is only one company that makes rgb Keyboards and that is as you mentioned Corsair. If you arenīt in a rush to get a keyboard I would wait until someone else releases their rgb or Corsair patches the software to control the lights since itīs really buggy atm.

Can I edit out the sound in a live-stream? I'll most likely be streaming on an online application like Twitch.

The backlighting doesn't have to be RGB. Multi-color is fine, too. The Ducky Shine 4 has caught my eye, but it isn't out yet. Logitech and Razer have also responded to Corsair's RGB release, but I feel like they won't be up-to-par. As for Corsair's software, I don't mind sticking to the backlighting presets. And I have to say that the dedicated media keys on Corsair's K70 is a big plus. That volume rocker will definitely get its money's-worth.

I'm not in too much of a rush, but I'd prefer to get a dedicated keyboard within a month's time.

I see! I guess you use an application such as OBS to stream and there you can mix incoming microfone sounds! If you would be fine with a Ducky keyboard I would strongly recommend it, due to its superb quality.

[notsonerd]

If you are going to stream your games you can mix out the high pitch sound that the blues make or something else. Just saying itīs fixable! Currently there is only one company that makes rgb Keyboards and that is as you mentioned Corsair. If you arenīt in a rush to get a keyboard I would wait until someone else releases their rgb or Corsair patches the software to control the lights since itīs really buggy atm.

Can I edit out the sound in a live-stream? I'll most likely be streaming on an online application like Twitch.

The backlighting doesn't have to be RGB. Multi-color is fine, too. The Ducky Shine 4 has caught my eye, but it isn't out yet. Logitech and Razer have also responded to Corsair's RGB release, but I feel like they won't be up-to-par. As for Corsair's software, I don't mind sticking to the backlighting presets. And I have to say that the dedicated media keys on Corsair's K70 is a big plus. That volume rocker will definitely get its money's-worth.

I'm not in too much of a rush, but I'd prefer to get a dedicated keyboard within a month's time.

I see! I guess you use an application such as OBS to stream and there you can mix incoming microfone sounds! If you would be fine with a Ducky keyboard I would strongly recommend it, due to its superb quality.

That's awesome. I've never streamed before, so I have a lot to learn. And I think I would be fine with a Ducky since it seems to be a very trusted brand here. Kind of bummed that the Shine 4 doesn't come with the knobs anymore, though. Just an aesthetic preference.

And just another question: is Cherry MX recommended as a starter mechanical keyboard switch? I know there are clones/copies out there. I've also been curious about the Tesoro Lobera since it has multi-color backlighting, but it uses Kailh switches. I can't say I've ever tested this switch, but is it as good as Cherry MX?

[Signature]

If you are going to stream your games you can mix out the high pitch sound that the blues make or something else. Just saying itīs fixable! Currently there is only one company that makes rgb Keyboards and that is as you mentioned Corsair. If you arenīt in a rush to get a keyboard I would wait until someone else releases their rgb or Corsair patches the software to control the lights since itīs really buggy atm.

Can I edit out the sound in a live-stream? I'll most likely be streaming on an online application like Twitch.

The backlighting doesn't have to be RGB. Multi-color is fine, too. The Ducky Shine 4 has caught my eye, but it isn't out yet. Logitech and Razer have also responded to Corsair's RGB release, but I feel like they won't be up-to-par. As for Corsair's software, I don't mind sticking to the backlighting presets. And I have to say that the dedicated media keys on Corsair's K70 is a big plus. That volume rocker will definitely get its money's-worth.

I'm not in too much of a rush, but I'd prefer to get a dedicated keyboard within a month's time.

I see! I guess you use an application such as OBS to stream and there you can mix incoming microfone sounds! If you would be fine with a Ducky keyboard I would strongly recommend it, due to its superb quality.

That's awesome. I've never streamed before, so I have a lot to learn. And I think I would be fine with a Ducky since it seems to be a very trusted brand here. Kind of bummed that the Shine 4 doesn't come with the knobs anymore, though. Just an aesthetic preference.

And just another question: is Cherry MX recommended as a starter mechanical keyboard switch? I know there are clones/copies out there. I've also been curious about the Tesoro Lobera since it has multi-color backlighting, but it uses Khali switches. I can't say I've ever tested this switch, but is it as good as Cherry MX?

Havenīt tried khali myself but I believe they are similar or a little worse quality than mx. I do however trust the companys that make cherry boards than I trust the khali ones! So yes I would recommend Cherrys for the convienience if your product is malfunctioning during your guarantee!

[absyrd]

Jury is still out on Kailh switches. A couple of bad experiences right out of the gate have gotten most of the attention. We'll see over time how they are received.

As I always say, a sampler only gives you a tiny bit of info from which to start from. You could love/hate a switch on it, but then get a keyboard and actually type and game and feel totally different. For example, the chattery click of blues becomes more pronounced as you speedily type on them (I am a fan of blues for both typing and gaming, but the sound bothers my wife when we're in the same room computing). Also with browns just lightly feeling out one switch is not going to give you the full experience; many people notice the bump more when just switch-testing, but when they go to game or type they get that "dirty" feeling (I go clears for this reason).

What particular games do you play?

[notsonerd]

Jury is still out on Kailh switches. A couple of bad experiences right out of the gate have gotten most of the attention. We'll see over time how they are received.

As I always say, a sampler only gives you a tiny bit of info from which to start from. You could love/hate a switch on it, but then get a keyboard and actually type and game and feel totally different. For example, the chattery click of blues becomes more pronounced as you speedily type on them (I am a fan of blues for both typing and gaming, but the sound bothers my wife when we're in the same room computing). Also with browns just lightly feeling out one switch is not going to give you the full experience; many people notice the bump more when just switch-testing, but when they go to game or type they get that "dirty" feeling (I go clears for this reason).

What particular games do you play?

I was afraid that a sampler could only help me so much. I understand that using an actual mechanical keyboard would be the best way to know. Unfortunately, I don't know any places that just have them lying around for demo use. The clears are just a heavier version of the browns, no? I didn't think I'd notice the bump as much when I'm actually typing on browns, but who could really know without using one.

As for the games I play, beat-'em-ups, MMORPG's, action games, plain RPG's, shooters, indie titles...my taste has a lot of variation. I would just use beat-'em-up as a reference, though. Dungeon Fighter Online is the exact title I'll be doing most of my streaming with. It's like a Street Fighter/Super Smash Bros/RPG hybrid with some intense PvP.

[Oobly]

Firstly, about all the MX switches, they will sound and feel at least a little different when mounted in a fulll sized board than they do in a tester.

I'll address the switches in your order of preference:

Blues. Personally I don't like the clicky switches, the click is quite high pitch and "plasticky" to my ears. Still, having some audible feedback is nice when typing, although not so much when gaming. Something the switch tester won't reveal is the "hysteresis" the clicky switches have. The actuation and release points are different so you need to lift your finger almost to the top of the slider movement to reset the switch. This can be an issue when gaming.

Browns. They're light, but the tactile bump is fairly small. They have no hysteresis, the actuation and release points are the same, so you can double tap and "hover" with them while gaming if you practice. IMHO, the bump isn't big enough so you don't get quite enough feedback to make them satisfying. Clears have a bigger tactile bump, but stronger springs, as you mentioned. With lighter springs in, Clears are awesome. Light actuation, no hysteresis, great tactile feedback, relatively quiet. Another benefit of the large tactile bump is it can act as a "backstop" and reference point for the point of actuation / release, so you can hover and double tap easily. I highly recommend 62g springs in them. The only downside is for most boards you have to desolder the switches to change the springs.

Reds. Great for gaming, only okay for typing, IMHO. It's fairly easy to accidentally press / mispress a key when typing. The lack of a bump makes it a less satisfying experience, IMO.

In terms of board size, I find a full size really awkward for gaming as it separates the mouse and keyboard hands too much unless you remap the game to use the numpad keys. I would recommend a TKL and an extra numpad. You can move the numpad out the way when gaming. In terms of overall build quality and bang for your buck I recomend a KUL ES-87. One reason I DON'T recommend the Corsair K70 is the non-standard bottom row. If you ever want to replace the keycaps it's a real PITA to find a set to fit (and the stock keycaps are not very good). A board with completely standard layout like the KUL can accept any aftermarket keycaps.

[noisyturtle]

Did you put the black spring into the clear stem? You gotta put the black spring in the clear stem!

[notsonerd]

Firstly, about all the MX switches, they will sound and feel at least a little different when mounted in a fulll sized board than they do in a tester.

I'll address the switches in your order of preference:

Blues. Personally I don't like the clicky switches, the click is quite high pitch and "plasticky" to my ears. Still, having some audible feedback is nice when typing, although not so much when gaming. Something the switch tester won't reveal is the "hysteresis" the clicky switches have. The actuation and release points are different so you need to lift your finger almost to the top of the slider movement to reset the switch. This can be an issue when gaming.

I've studied the blue switch and the hysteresis with the sampler and can understand how this would be an issue when gaming. I do like the audible feedback from the click, though.

Browns. They're light, but the tactile bump is fairly small. They have no hysteresis, the actuation and release points are the same, so you can double tap and "hover" with them while gaming if you practice. IMHO, the bump isn't big enough so you don't get quite enough feedback to make them satisfying. Clears have a bigger tactile bump, but stronger springs, as you mentioned. With lighter springs in, Clears are awesome. Light actuation, no hysteresis, great tactile feedback, relatively quiet. Another benefit of the large tactile bump is it can act as a "backstop" and reference point for the point of actuation / release, so you can hover and double tap easily. I highly recommend 62g springs in them. The only downside is for most boards you have to desolder the switches to change the springs.

Not sure I'll be doing any modding on my first board, at least not anytime soon. Did notice the hover, though. Very like the reds in that regard.

Reds. Great for gaming, only okay for typing, IMHO. It's fairly easy to accidentally press / mispress a key when typing. The lack of a bump makes it a less satisfying experience, IMO.

Yeah, I may have to rule out reds since I'll only be getting one board...

In terms of board size, I find a full size really awkward for gaming as it separates the mouse and keyboard hands too much unless you remap the game to use the numpad keys. I would recommend a TKL and an extra numpad. You can move the numpad out the way when gaming. In terms of overall build quality and bang for your buck I recomend a KUL ES-87. One reason I DON'T recommend the Corsair K70 is the non-standard bottom row. If you ever want to replace the keycaps it's a real PITA to find a set to fit (and the stock keycaps are not very good). A board with completely standard layout like the KUL can accept any aftermarket keycaps.

The KUL ES-87 looks a lot like the CM Storm Quickfire Rapid. They're also very similar in price. Is the CM Storm Quickfire Rapid not a standard layout?

So the Corsair K70 lacks customization. Does it falter anywhere else besides with its RGB software? The K65 happens to be TKL and offer RGB lighting as well.

Did you put the black spring into the clear stem? You gotta put the black spring in the clear stem!

I have no idea how to mod, let alone mod a switch sampler x.x

[demik]

now topre

[noisyturtle]

Did you put the black spring into the clear stem? You gotta put the black spring in the clear stem!

I have no idea how to mod, let alone mod a switch sampler x.x

It's super easy. See those little latches on the side of the switch? Just pry them up, remove the switch cover, change the spring, and that's it! About as difficult as changing the battery in your remote

[notsonerd]

now topre

Can't tell if trolling.

Did you put the black spring into the clear stem? You gotta put the black spring in the clear stem!

I have no idea how to mod, let alone mod a switch sampler x.x

It's super easy. See those little latches on the side of the switch? Just pry them up, remove the switch cover, change the spring, and that's it! About as difficult as changing the battery in your remote

I'd have to buy separate springs, then. The sampler came with the switches pre-assembled and I have no idea what kind of springs may be in each switch.

[Oobly]

The ES-87 has slightly better build quality than the Rapid-i and there is an option for Clear switches.

If you switch the springs from the Black switch and the Clear switch you will have made a "Ghost Black" and a "Panda Clear" switch. They are both better than the stock switches IMHO. The Panda Clear will feel a bit like an ErgoClear, but with a slightly stronger spring (Black spring is 80g or so at bottom out, my favourite ErgoClear spring is 62g at bottom out). The Ghost Black feels just a hair harder than a stock Red right at the top of the movement, but it increases in force more quickly so that just below the actuation point it's like a Black spring and afterwards it's stronger, so you can judge the position more easily and it's easier to not bottom out, but they're still quite easy to press to actuation.

You can use a small screwdriver to pry open the tabs that hold the top part of the switch casing in place.

There are lots of modification and customisation options with Cherry MX switches which is one aspect of them I really like since I like to play around and tweak stuff. If that's not an option for you and you think stock Clears are too hard for you, then the Browns are probably the one I'd go for in a dual-purpose board, but they are a bit of a compromise. You may find a kind soul on GH (depending on your location) that would mod the switches for you if you bought a board with Clears for a modest fee (or even possibly for free).

Some other preferences of mine:
Plate mounted > PCB mounted switches: They're more firm and feel more "precise".
Metal case > plastic case: Again it's more firm and stable and you feel like it's only the switch mechanism that's moving, no flex anywhere else.
Thick, heavy keycaps in any material > thin, light keycaps in any material: They smooth out the action of the switch, minimise roughness in the mechanism and give a premium feeling to typing. The material is not as important as the weight and good fit of the keycaps. See GMK doubleshot ABS keycaps for an example of good thick ABS keycaps. Also Signature Plastics' SA profile keycaps.
POM > PBT > ABS: This is a rough generality, but it fits with my preference from above. POM is the densest keycap material, so it makes for the heaviest keycaps. I happen to also like the slick texture of POM (kind of "Teflon"-ish) and it wears very slowly, like PBT, so you don't get that ABS "sticky" smoothness. POM is also the most ductile and least brittle of the keycap plastics. It lends a nice deep tone to any switch noises (clicks or bottom out and release sounds). PBT is the most brittle (and has a dry, ceramic-like texture to it), ABS is somewhere in between.

In general another aspect of keycaps that I touched on in the description of POM is how they change the sound of the switches. Thin, light, brittle caps will emphasise the higher frequencies and thick, heavy, ductile caps will mask the higher frequencies and emphasise the lower frequencies. PBT is an interesting material in this regard in that it's denser than ABS, but more brittle, so it's a bit of a balance between the properties. For Blues, some people prefer thin light caps to emphasise the high pitched click (which I actually find annoying). Others prefer thicker caps which IMHO make them sound better and hide the upper frequency of the click. Some feel that this deadens the feedback too much, though.

My all-time favourite combination: Plate mounted trampoline and latex modded 62g lubed ErgoClears in an aluminium case with good thick Cherry profile keycaps (GMK Dolch ABS or OG Cherry POM for instance).

[AverageHybrid]

If it is from what you say you would like to type and game quite a lot browns is the option.

[notsonerd]

The ES-87 has slightly better build quality than the Rapid-i and there is an option for Clear switches.

If you switch the springs from the Black switch and the Clear switch you will have made a "Ghost Black" and a "Panda Clear" switch. They are both better than the stock switches IMHO. The Panda Clear will feel a bit like an ErgoClear, but with a slightly stronger spring (Black spring is 80g or so at bottom out, my favourite ErgoClear spring is 62g at bottom out). The Ghost Black feels just a hair harder than a stock Red right at the top of the movement, but it increases in force more quickly so that just below the actuation point it's like a Black spring and afterwards it's stronger, so you can judge the position more easily and it's easier to not bottom out, but they're still quite easy to press to actuation.

You can use a small screwdriver to pry open the tabs that hold the top part of the switch casing in place.

There are lots of modification and customisation options with Cherry MX switches which is one aspect of them I really like since I like to play around and tweak stuff. If that's not an option for you and you think stock Clears are too hard for you, then the Browns are probably the one I'd go for in a dual-purpose board, but they are a bit of a compromise. You may find a kind soul on GH (depending on your location) that would mod the switches for you if you bought a board with Clears for a modest fee (or even possibly for free).

Some other preferences of mine:
Plate mounted > PCB mounted switches: They're more firm and feel more "precise".
Metal case > plastic case: Again it's more firm and stable and you feel like it's only the switch mechanism that's moving, no flex anywhere else.
Thick, heavy keycaps in any material > thin, light keycaps in any material: They smooth out the action of the switch, minimise roughness in the mechanism and give a premium feeling to typing. The material is not as important as the weight and good fit of the keycaps. See GMK doubleshot ABS keycaps for an example of good thick ABS keycaps. Also Signature Plastics' SA profile keycaps.
POM > PBT > ABS: This is a rough generality, but it fits with my preference from above. POM is the densest keycap material, so it makes for the heaviest keycaps. I happen to also like the slick texture of POM (kind of "Teflon"-ish) and it wears very slowly, like PBT, so you don't get that ABS "sticky" smoothness. POM is also the most ductile and least brittle of the keycap plastics. It lends a nice deep tone to any switch noises (clicks or bottom out and release sounds). PBT is the most brittle (and has a dry, ceramic-like texture to it), ABS is somewhere in between.

In general another aspect of keycaps that I touched on in the description of POM is how they change the sound of the switches. Thin, light, brittle caps will emphasise the higher frequencies and thick, heavy, ductile caps will mask the higher frequencies and emphasise the lower frequencies. PBT is an interesting material in this regard in that it's denser than ABS, but more brittle, so it's a bit of a balance between the properties. For Blues, some people prefer thin light caps to emphasise the high pitched click (which I actually find annoying). Others prefer thicker caps which IMHO make them sound better and hide the upper frequency of the click. Some feel that this deadens the feedback too much, though.

My all-time favourite combination: Plate mounted trampoline and latex modded 62g lubed ErgoClears in an aluminium case with good thick Cherry profile keycaps (GMK Dolch ABS or OG Cherry POM for instance).

I can see myself changing out keycaps at some point. I like the idea of muting the sound of blues with thicker key caps. They would have to support backlighting, though. The ES-87 doesn't have backlighting which is why I've been eyeing the Quickfire Rapid-I.

Keycap customization looks inevitable if I love the keyboard enough to want to improve the experience, so I'm slowly moving away from the Corsair line. Are there other TKL/60% keyboards with good build quality that I could get in either blue, brown or red? The clears do feel a little too heavy for light touch-typing, but I'm still undecided about my three preferences. Even a full-size keyboard is fine, but I'm afraid it has to have backlighting.

[Oobly]

Ducky Shine TKL or full size are good boards with backlighting. I'd say similar quality to the KUL (possibly a hair less sturdy) and a little better than the Rapid-i. One thing I do like about the Rapid-i, though, is that the backlight is white. AFAIK, the Ducky Shine 3 doesn't have a white option, but they have a good selection of other colours. The WASD Code is also a good quality backlit board (with white LED's), but only comes with heavier switches (Clears or Greens).

There are only a few good sets of keycaps that are designed for backlighting, though. Most of the best quality keycaps don't allow the light to shine through the legends or even the keycaps themselves, but only the reflected background light around the caps something like this (these are Ducky thick PBT):



Or if they are of a lighter coloured material or thinner they may let the light bleed through, but not just through the legends something like this:



There are some high quality keycaps designed for backlighting, but most of them are not quite up to the quality of the best non-backlit caps. These are PBT with POM legends and are OEM profile, made by Vortex and are about the best backlit caps out there right now: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1003

[notsonerd]

Ducky Shine TKL or full size are good boards with backlighting. I'd say similar quality to the KUL (possibly a hair less sturdy) and a little better than the Rapid-i. One thing I do like about the Rapid-i, though, is that the backlight is white. AFAIK, the Ducky Shine 3 doesn't have a white option, but they have a good selection of other colours. The WASD Code is also a good quality backlit board (with white LED's), but only comes with heavier switches (Clears or Greens).

There are only a few good sets of keycaps that are designed for backlighting, though. Most of the best quality keycaps don't allow the light to shine through the legends or even the keycaps themselves, but only the reflected background light around the caps something like this (these are Ducky thick PBT):

Show Image

Or if they are of a lighter coloured material or thinner they may let the light bleed through, but not just through the legends something like this:

Show Image

There are some high quality keycaps designed for backlighting, but most of them are not quite up to the quality of the best non-backlit caps. These are PBT with POM legends and are OEM profile, made by Vortex and are about the best backlit caps out there right now: http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1003

White Backlit Ducky Shine 3 =p

I actually don't mind the look of the bleed through the keys. It still seems to make the legends visible. That's all I really need for late-night gaming. But those Vortex keycaps look good, albeit a bit plain. I'll probably get those.

I've already got a red backlight theme going, so I may just stick with it and get a red backlit Ducky Shine 3 with those Vortex PBT's. Are the stock ABS caps on the Ducky Shine 3 that bad compared to the Vortex keycaps?

Still, I can't seem to shake the idea of the Corsair K70 RGB. The look and RGB alone is such a huge seller for me. If I get the Ducky Shine 3 TKL and the Vortex Keycaps, the amount I'd be paying total exceeds what I'd pay for the Corsair K70 RGB. Is it a worthy trade-off? I haven't heard anything about the quality of the stock keycaps on the K70, but the anodized black aluminum has gotten rave reviews as far as build quality. The analog media controls are also a very nice plus. I also worry about ESD on LED's, something I would no longer be concerned with in the RGB switches. Does Ducky have a good rep as far as their LED life expectancy and overall build quality?

I'm not any closer to deciding between blue and browns, but reds have been ruled out. I may start another thread regarding more specifics about sound when streaming with either switch.

Edit: Playing around more with the stock MX clears and I can definitely imagine using these with a lighter spring like you guys suggested. How would I go about getting the springs to switch the stock ones out?