How do I go about making a keyboard for less money?

[Vozella]

I just got my quote from BigBlueSaw. It's $482.46.
My custom keyboard is going to cost about $500 for just the metal.
There must be another way.
Is there any way I can make a keyboard that doesn't cost my whole paycheck for the month?

[joey]

That sounds very expensive.

From here they should be ~$100: https://www.bigbluesaw.com/big-blue-saw/big-blue-saw-special-info/waterjet-and-laser-cut-keyboard-plates.html

[Data]

Shop around.  Big Blue Saw is rarely the cheapest option for laser cut metal. 

You could also consider acrylic for your case.  Without knowing what you're trying to build it will be very difficult to make recommendations...

[Vozella]

That sounds very expensive.

From here they should be ~$100: https://www.bigbluesaw.com/big-blue-saw/big-blue-saw-special-info/waterjet-and-laser-cut-keyboard-plates.html

It's not just the plate. It's the other parts that go under it.

[Vozella]

Shop around.  Big Blue Saw is rarely the cheapest option for laser cut metal. 

You could also consider acrylic for your case.  Without knowing what you're trying to build it will be very difficult to make recommendations...

I basically sent what builder.swillkb.com showed me.

[suicidal_orange]

But what is it?  A fullsize with a layered case or a 60% skeleton, or a pair of split angled boards like an ergodox or

[Vozella]

But what is it?  A fullsize with a layered case or a 60% skeleton, or a pair of split angled boards like an ergodox or

Well, here's the layout. www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/7cfe1bf4a04af1be6414 I chose the sandwich option on builder.swillkb.com.

[rowdy]

There's a simple question/answer about that:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40501.0#post_GGGG

[Findecanor]

The keyboard is 15×5 units, which is the same as any 60% keyboard. That means that you could probably take any case for a 60% keyboard and modify it to support your keyboard.

The layout is otherwise quite close to an Atomic for which there are relatively affordable parts already. If you use their PCB then you won't need any plate, really.

Edit: Hey, look, I have already plugged the Atomic for you (in your very first thread here even), but I have yet to see you post a response about it.

[suicidal_orange]

The keyboard is 15×5 units, which is the same as any 60% keyboard. That means that you could probably take any case for a 60% keyboard and modify it to support your keyboard.

The layout is otherwise quite close to an Atomic for which there are relatively affordable parts already. If you use their PCB then you won't need any plate, really.

Edit: Hey, look, I have already plugged the Atomic for you (in your very first thread here even), but I have yet to see you post a response about it.

It's not a standard stagger so there are switches where the poker screws go, not going to fit in a standard case.

Good call on the Atomic though, much cheaper than $500

[Vozella]

The keyboard is 15×5 units, which is the same as any 60% keyboard. That means that you could probably take any case for a 60% keyboard and modify it to support your keyboard.

The layout is otherwise quite close to an Atomic for which there are relatively affordable parts already. If you use their PCB then you won't need any plate, really.

Edit: Hey, look, I have already plugged the Atomic for you (in your very first thread here even), but I have yet to see you post a response about it.

Sorry I haven't responded. I probably didn't understand. I'll look in to it right now.

[BigBlueSaw]

Did you combine all the designs into a single file, or did you try to quote each piece separately when quoting with Big Blue Saw?

See this page on how to combine designs to save money:
http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/the-best-tip-for-saving-money-with-big-blue-saw.html

Also, you don't have to use the same material for the top as for the other pieces. This may allow you to e.g. use stainless steel for the top, but much cheaper acrylic for the bottom and sides.

[ideus]

There's a simple question/answer about that:

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40501.0#post_GGGG

+1, Check this.

[Vozella]

Did you combine all the designs into a single file, or did you try to quote each piece separately when quoting with Big Blue Saw?

See this page on how to combine designs to save money:
http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/big-blue-saw-blog/general-updates/the-best-tip-for-saving-money-with-big-blue-saw.html

Also, you don't have to use the same material for the top as for the other pieces. This may allow you to e.g. use stainless steel for the top, but much cheaper acrylic for the bottom and sides.

Wow. I didn't know you had an account here.

Thank you, but how do I put the pieces together? I don't have a program to edit it.

Also, how different would the price be from stainless steel to acrylic? Nevermind. I can see it on your site.

[jd29]

The cheapest way to make a keyboard is in layers. Unibody is most elegant, but also most expensive. If economics are a big concern, this is probably how you make your money go the furthest:



That said, $500 is very expensive for metal, even if you're doing unibody, I think. The best prices I found are from online metals.

[BigBlueSaw]

For those who didn't spot it, the list of recommended CAD is here:
http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/faqs/files/what-software-can-i-use-to-make-files-for-big-blue-saw.html

How thick are cases typically?  I could put some more cases on the examples page.

[suicidal_orange]

For those who didn't spot it, the list of recommended CAD is here:
http://www.bigbluesaw.com/saw/faqs/files/what-software-can-i-use-to-make-files-for-big-blue-saw.html

How thick are cases typically?  I could put some more cases on the examples page.

The JD40 is 12mm between the two plates, this is enough room for the PCB with a Teensy attached under it, so that sounds like a good minimum thickness

[BigBlueSaw]

Got it.

Here's a JD40 plate & case all in stainless 0.06":

http://www.bigbluesaw.com/index.php?option=com_estimator&step=20&file=A0A0-A0A0-jd40_With_case_for1.5mmMaterial.dxf&material=3&thickness=0.06

Here's the above bottom plate and side pieces for 3 mm thick acrylic:

http://www.bigbluesaw.com/index.php?option=com_estimator&step=20&file=A0A0-A0A0-jd40_caseonly_for3mmMaterial.dxf&material=4&thickness=0.118

[suicidal_orange]

Good work but the USB hole is near the side not in the middle, using a ruler I'd say it's about 22mm in (allowing for a chunky connector)  Don't think that will change the quote though!

As a rough estimate how much would I be looking at to ship two of those with acrylic bottoms to the UK?  I like that you're involved in the site so would like to support you, but have always assumed between shipping and customs it wouldn't be feasible.

[BigBlueSaw]

I just used the shapes as they came off of builder.swillkb.com. Of course everybody's keyboard case is going to be a little different, with varying margins, hole locations, and so forth.

International shipping is typically US$40 to US$80. If you've got your design ready, e-mail us and we can give you an exact quote.