Author Topic: Help, after desolder and replace new switch  (Read 2609 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Sasuak

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 3
Help, after desolder and replace new switch
« on: Sat, 07 December 2019, 07:14:12 »

My keyboard Corsair k63 Wireless.
After i replace new switch, when i press one key it will input one row.
Please help, whats wrong with this?

I already check my pcb board, its all clean without any flux or tin

Offline suicidal_orange

  • * Global Moderator
  • Posts: 4771
  • Location: England
Re: Help, after desolder and replace new switch
« Reply #1 on: Sat, 07 December 2019, 10:51:21 »
Did you trap the USB cable under a switch pin when you put the case back together?  That would do it.

Or maybe shorting a switch pin to an LED pad?
120/100g linear Zealio R1  
GMK Hyperfuse
'Split everything' perfection  
MX Clear
SA Hack'd by Geeks     
EasyAVR mod

Offline Sasuak

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 3
Re: Help, after desolder and replace new switch
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 07 December 2019, 11:39:25 »
Did you trap the USB cable under a switch pin when you put the case back together?  That would do it.

Or maybe shorting a switch pin to an LED pad?

its not even in the case, only pcb and plate.
what is led pad?

Offline Steezus

  • Keeper of Facts
  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 2497
Re: Help, after desolder and replace new switch
« Reply #3 on: Sat, 07 December 2019, 12:04:19 »
Did you trap the USB cable under a switch pin when you put the case back together?  That would do it.

Or maybe shorting a switch pin to an LED pad?

its not even in the case, only pcb and plate.
what is led pad?



For each switch, you would have two holes for the pins, two holes for mounting if your PCB supports and you have PCB mounted switches, and two holes for the LED pins marked by the red circle.
TGR-Jane CE | TGR-Tris CE | Lyn Montage | LZ PhysiX | Exclusive e8.5

Offline Sup

  • * Exquisite Elder
  • Posts: 1355
  • Doing university was a mistake
Re: Help, after desolder and replace new switch
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 07 December 2019, 14:44:40 »
I think it also good if you show us your soldering.
current
Filco Zero -  NOS Yellow Alps | Canoe R1 Gateron Red | AEK II JP Cream dampend |Filco Majestouch 2 Tex case Gateron Yellow | HHKB Pro 1 2003 Rev AO Serial 000171 | HHKB Pro 1 2003 Rev A1s|DZ60 OG Panda's with Fei spring and stem. | Sentraq S65_Plus OG Invyr Panda's | A17 Gateron Black TX 65G 3204 | Lubrigrante Wildcard Cherry MX silent blacks 3204 58.5G Springs | Rukia Everglide Tourmaline Blue 58.5G Springs | MGA Standard Greetech brown |
Coming soon
Rest in peace Billy Herrington(William Glen Harold Herrington) 1969-2018
Rest in peace Byron Daniel 1989-2020

Offline Sasuak

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 3
Re: Help, after desolder and replace new switch
« Reply #5 on: Sun, 08 December 2019, 00:08:11 »

Show Image


For each switch, you would have two holes for the pins, two holes for mounting if your PCB supports and you have PCB mounted switches, and two holes for the LED pins marked by the red circle.

I think it also good if you show us your soldering.

Oh i see, no iam not wrong solder  to led pad.
Here is my solder on the pcb

[ Specified attachment is not available ]
« Last Edit: Sun, 08 December 2019, 01:08:16 by Sasuak »

Offline suicidal_orange

  • * Global Moderator
  • Posts: 4771
  • Location: England
Re: Help, after desolder and replace new switch
« Reply #6 on: Sun, 08 December 2019, 04:20:32 »
I may be being stupid trying to think how diodes work but did you somehow kill the diode connected to both replaced switches?  Check them for continuity then swap the probes - they should only be connected one way.

Doesn't seem likely as your soldering looks great.
120/100g linear Zealio R1  
GMK Hyperfuse
'Split everything' perfection  
MX Clear
SA Hack'd by Geeks     
EasyAVR mod