Thank you!
You said it supports most if not all cases, care to elaborate on that? With the Katana60 I had to trim the switches that overlapped standoff posts to ensure a flat PCB. Did you encounter the same issue?
Yeah there was a lot of headscratching and experimentation to get the ergonomics I wanted while working around the mounting posts, with tweaks to stagger, angle of the halves, thumb keys and LED positions to make it all fit. Luck was on my side in some areas though - It would have been much harder to design without fairly aggressive pinky stagger for example (but fortunately I wanted that anyway). It's a bit of a delicate balance!
I've tested it in a number of cases and it's ok (or *will be* - the plate is a tiny bit too big for a Tofu right now, but I'll fix that), and I've borrowed a few more to test with. As it stands, switch mods shouldn't be necessary, but some cases may still pose a challenge particularly if they have very thick mounting posts (>5mm) in the two central locations. I haven't found any that are thick enough to be problematic which aren't removable - though I'm sure there are some. In any case that can be worked around with a washer, kapton tape, perhaps an o-ring mod, etc as long as they're not ridiculously wide.
Only non-starter I've found so far is BBox60 as it has tons of extra mounting points that I can't possibly work around without severely compromising the layout. I kinda got it working with o-rings (using washers to support them) and removing the USB socket cover, but that's not a great outcome.
Had lots of requests for daughterboard support and cutouts for a Bakeneko60, so I'm working on that (and have one on the way to make sure it'll work - best excuse I've ever had for frivolously ordering keyboard parts so I couldn't pass it up!).
Katana60 is a fantastic design btw!
