Author Topic: Model M LED Panel help.  (Read 1898 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Model M LED Panel help.
« on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 17:17:41 »
Does anyone have a spare Model M LED panel they don't need?  I could really use one.  It will connect to a 1993 1391401 controller.  I found a topic on it on here from March 2012, but didn't want to pull up that thread and necro everyone on it.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55556.0
I don't know where to get them.
I believe I may need the ribbon too, but I suppose I could use cat5 wire if I need to.
« Last Edit: Sun, 22 February 2015, 17:31:04 by Snowdog993 »

Offline 0100010

  • Posts: 1127
  • Location: DFW, TX, US
  • Not Sure
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #1 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 17:49:01 »
Order one from Unicomp.  They aren't listed on the site, but you can open a support ticket with them to get one.
  Quoting me causes a posting error that you need to ignore.

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #2 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 17:54:11 »
Order one from Unicomp.  They aren't listed on the site, but you can open a support ticket with them to get one.
That's interesting.  I just don't want them to mess up and give me one of those 42H controllers or something.  I'd probably have to send them a picture of what I need, and hope they have it.  You may be right.  I just don't understand why they wouldn't have them to order directly on their site to begin with.

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #3 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 17:57:05 »
UGH Double post.
« Last Edit: Sun, 22 February 2015, 18:05:40 by Snowdog993 »

Offline 0100010

  • Posts: 1127
  • Location: DFW, TX, US
  • Not Sure
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #4 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 18:03:28 »
I think the part number for that LED PCB is 1393296.
  Quoting me causes a posting error that you need to ignore.

Offline fohat.digs

  • * Elevated Elder
  • Posts: 6544
  • Location: 35°55'N, 83°53'W
  • weird funny old guy
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #5 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 18:04:12 »
mess up and give me one of those 42H controllers or something.

Ha Ha Ha Ha

42H controllers are the only ones that I have ever experienced failing!
As George Orwell put it:
Journalism is printing what someone else does not want printed; everything else is public relations.

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #6 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 18:07:35 »
I guess I could just make one if I have to.  It doesn't look too hard to do.  I was hoping someone just had one lying around.

Offline 0100010

  • Posts: 1127
  • Location: DFW, TX, US
  • Not Sure
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #7 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 18:14:20 »
This thread has good images of the traces : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55556.0
  Quoting me causes a posting error that you need to ignore.

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #8 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 18:29:00 »
This thread has good images of the traces : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55556.0
Yes I found it there.  If you read my first post, that's the thread I was referencing.

Offline keyhopper

  • Posts: 81
  • Fun is Key.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #9 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 20:45:48 »
The Model M that I bought didn't have working LEDs either, and I fixed it jumping the ribbon connector with wires. It seems that the ribbon was somehow disolved or fried with overcurrent , maybe because of water ingress at some point in its lifetime.

The wires I used were telephone extension wires, which had the advantage of being single filament wires, easy to push through both connectors.

Luckily I kept the pictures:

91652-0

91654-1

91656-2

It would be very rare for the small LED pcb to be damaged, it has no logic in it, all it has are LEDs and a connector.
If the LED were damaged, you could solder new LEDs with your favorite color (blue, red, etc). There is a current limiting resistor in series with the LEDs on the main board, so you don't have to worry about the mainboard.

Cheers!
.KeyHopper.
RealForce 87UB 55gr    |    IBM Model M (1995)    |    Razer B.W.T.E. Stealth (w Razer oranges)

Offline keyhopper

  • Posts: 81
  • Fun is Key.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #10 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 20:50:41 »
Also, in my case, I had tested conductivity between the ribbon cable extremes, and there was like 1Mohm there, so the ribbon was no good anymore, not even after careful cleaning.
RealForce 87UB 55gr    |    IBM Model M (1995)    |    Razer B.W.T.E. Stealth (w Razer oranges)

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #11 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 21:02:20 »
I need a LED PCB.  Does anyone have one at all?

Offline keyhopper

  • Posts: 81
  • Fun is Key.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #12 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 21:14:08 »
If I were you, I'd make my own out of a cut piece of solderable breadboard PCB, just a bit of soldering required:

       http://www.amazon.com/Solderable-BreadBoard-matches-tie-point-breadboards/dp/B0040Z3012/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424660769&sr=8-1&keywords=bread+pcb

       http://www.amazon.com/Solderable-BreadBoard-matches-tie-point-breadboards/dp/B0040Z6OK6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1424660769&sr=8-10&keywords=bread+pcb

but they should be available for cheaper at a local shop or elsewhere.

The model M LED pcb is extremely simple. A common wire and three individual wires to the LEDs. Mind the polarity, I think VCC was common and gnd was sinked individually for each LED.

Cheers!
RealForce 87UB 55gr    |    IBM Model M (1995)    |    Razer B.W.T.E. Stealth (w Razer oranges)

Offline Snowdog993

  • Grace Under Pressure
  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 1587
  • Location: Over There! (Pointing)
  • Justifiably Clueless.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #13 on: Sun, 22 February 2015, 21:17:17 »
If I were you, I'd make my own out of a cut piece of solderable breadboard PCB, just a bit of soldering required:

       http://www.amazon.com/Solderable-BreadBoard-matches-tie-point-breadboards/dp/B0040Z3012/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424660769&sr=8-1&keywords=bread+pcb

       http://www.amazon.com/Solderable-BreadBoard-matches-tie-point-breadboards/dp/B0040Z6OK6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1424660769&sr=8-10&keywords=bread+pcb

but they should be available for cheaper at a local shop or elsewhere.

The model M LED pcb is extremely simple. A common wire and three individual wires to the LEDs. Mind the polarity, I think VCC was common and gnd was sinked individually for each LED.

Cheers!

Yeah thanks, I may just go to my local Radio Shack or something and find one.  Maybe get a few LED's while I am at it too.

Offline rowdy

  • HHKB Hapster
  • * Erudite Elder
  • Posts: 21175
  • Location: melbourne.vic.au
  • Missed another sale.
Re: Model M LED Panel help.
« Reply #14 on: Tue, 24 February 2015, 04:02:07 »
I'd just like to say that this is the best way of handling very old threads.

Don't necro them - start a new thread and post a link to the original one :)
"Because keyboards are accessories to PC makers, they focus on minimizing the manufacturing costs. But that’s incorrect. It’s in HHKB’s slogan, but when America’s cowboys were in the middle of a trip and their horse died, they would leave the horse there. But even if they were in the middle of a desert, they would take their saddle with them. The horse was a consumable good, but the saddle was an interface that their bodies had gotten used to. In the same vein, PCs are consumable goods, while keyboards are important interfaces." - Eiiti Wada

NEC APC-H4100E | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED red | Ducky DK9008 Shine MX blue LED green | Link 900243-08 | CM QFR MX black | KeyCool 87 white MX reds | HHKB 2 Pro | Model M 02-Mar-1993 | Model M 29-Nov-1995 | CM Trigger (broken) | CM QFS MX green | Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Yellow Edition MX black | Lexmark SSK 21-Apr-1994 | IBM SSK 13-Oct-1987 | CODE TKL MX clear | Model M 122 01-Jun-1988

Ị̸͚̯̲́ͤ̃͑̇̑ͯ̊̂͟ͅs̞͚̩͉̝̪̲͗͊ͪ̽̚̚ ̭̦͖͕̑́͌ͬͩ͟t̷̻͔̙̑͟h̹̠̼͋ͤ͋i̤̜̣̦̱̫͈͔̞ͭ͑ͥ̌̔s̬͔͎̍̈ͥͫ̐̾ͣ̔̇͘ͅ ̩̘̼͆̐̕e̞̰͓̲̺̎͐̏ͬ̓̅̾͠͝ͅv̶̰͕̱̞̥̍ͣ̄̕e͕͙͖̬̜͓͎̤̊ͭ͐͝ṇ̰͎̱̤̟̭ͫ͌̌͢͠ͅ ̳̥̦ͮ̐ͤ̎̊ͣ͡͡n̤̜̙̺̪̒͜e̶̻̦̿ͮ̂̀c̝̘̝͖̠̖͐ͨͪ̈̐͌ͩ̀e̷̥͇̋ͦs̢̡̤ͤͤͯ͜s͈̠̉̑͘a̱͕̗͖̳̥̺ͬͦͧ͆̌̑͡r̶̟̖̈͘ỷ̮̦̩͙͔ͫ̾ͬ̔ͬͮ̌?̵̘͇͔͙ͥͪ͞ͅ