Descent into desoldering hell

[spanyam]

So I'm desoldering for the first time ever. I need to get a bunch of orange alps off an Infinity PCB that does not work and replace it with a working one. I was able to use one of those cheap plastic solder suckers to remove most of the solder, but the switch pins are still adamantly stuck to the PCB (solder between the thin edge and the metal ring in the PCB). The only way I'm able to remove it is to stick a long flat letter opener between the switch and the PCB and twist as I'm awkwardly holding this 400 degree tip of death in my left hand and shoving the pointy end between the pin and the hole.

Good thing this is a broken PCB because I'm absolutely mauling it. I've only managed to pull off about 10 switches so far, and 4 of them have also yanked off the metal ring insert in the PCB that forms the circuit. So... how in the hell does one desolder these switches easily, and what am I doing wrong?

EDIT: Wonderful news! The top 2 mm of the tip of the actual soldering iron just fell off. It's nice and blunt now. Perhaps the "Iron plated tip and stainless steel construction" of this soldering iron don't actually "offerlong life" (yes, spelled exactly like that).

EDIT 2: I did watch this video before starting the processs, and I'll just say the PCB does not angelically lift off like it does for this guy:

[quasistellar]

Well first, is your soldering iron any good? Are you keeping your tip clean and tinned? It's important to get good, fast heat transfer with a properly cleaned and tinned tip.

Secondly, what kind of solder sucker are you using? Is it one of the "soldapult" type? I've found that those work best because they provide better suction than the ones with a rubber bulb.

Thirdly, did you try using some solder braid to get the last little bits? I've found that works well for the last little bit on the side where the pin is resting against the PCB. You put the braid against the pin, then put the soldering iron on top of both, and it kind of wicks the solder into the braid.

[pr0ximity]

It's also sometimes useful to add solder and then try to suck it out again, especially if you have rosin core solder.

[OTD]

Using kester 44, add a decent amount of solder on to the hole similar to what you would put if you were soldering the switch and then proceed by sucking out the solder with the solder sucker. This will create enough surface for your soldering tip to heat up the solder stuck in between the pcb and the switch allowing you to suck it all in one go.

[spanyam]

Well first, is your soldering iron any good? Are you keeping your tip clean and tinned? It's important to get good, fast heat transfer with a properly cleaned and tinned tip.

Secondly, what kind of solder sucker are you using? Is it one of the "soldapult" type? I've found that those work best because they provide better suction than the ones with a rubber bulb.

Thirdly, did you try using some solder braid to get the last little bits? I've found that works well for the last little bit on the side where the pin is resting against the PCB. You put the braid against the pin, then put the soldering iron on top of both, and it kind of wicks the solder into the braid.

This is the soldering iron that I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00.

I did not keep the tip clean / tinned, which probably contributed to the problems (as I said, first time soldering). I'm using a soldapult type sucker provided with the kit, and it's been decent. I didn't buy a desoldering braid, so maybe I should do that.

Overall, I jumped in to this without peparing enough, it seems, as I have absolutely nothing with which to clean a hot solder tip. Is it sufficient to watch youtube videos on how to solder to learn the basics?

Using kester 44, add a decent amount of solder on to the hole similar to what you would put if you were soldering the switch and then proceed by sucking out the solder with the solder sucker. This will create enough surface for your soldering tip to heat up the solder stuck in between the pcb and the switch allowing you to suck it all in one go.

Thanks, I don't think I have Kester 44, as I'm just trying it with the wire that was provided with the kit. I'll give it another shot this weekend and keep this in mind.

[OTD]

Most solder has a rosin core and an easy way to tell is if you see osome splattering fluid that solidifies when you use a 400 degree soldering iron.

[steelcity]

Man, this is making me nervous.  I am planning on swapping on the switches on my FC900's for Zealios.  I hope they are easy to desolder!!  I have pretty good equipment though, so hopefully that helps!  I was able to replace a relay on the board of my Bosch dishwasher and it worked great for my first time ever soldering!

[dgneo]

Well first, is your soldering iron any good? Are you keeping your tip clean and tinned? It's important to get good, fast heat transfer with a properly cleaned and tinned tip.

Secondly, what kind of solder sucker are you using? Is it one of the "soldapult" type? I've found that those work best because they provide better suction than the ones with a rubber bulb.

Thirdly, did you try using some solder braid to get the last little bits? I've found that works well for the last little bit on the side where the pin is resting against the PCB. You put the braid against the pin, then put the soldering iron on top of both, and it kind of wicks the solder into the braid.

This is the soldering iron that I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00.

I did not keep the tip clean / tinned, which probably contributed to the problems (as I said, first time soldering). I'm using a soldapult type sucker provided with the kit, and it's been decent. I didn't buy a desoldering braid, so maybe I should do that.

Overall, I jumped in to this without peparing enough, it seems, as I have absolutely nothing with which to clean a hot solder tip. Is it sufficient to watch youtube videos on how to solder to learn the basics?

Using kester 44, add a decent amount of solder on to the hole similar to what you would put if you were soldering the switch and then proceed by sucking out the solder with the solder sucker. This will create enough surface for your soldering tip to heat up the solder stuck in between the pcb and the switch allowing you to suck it all in one go.

Thanks, I don't think I have Kester 44, as I'm just trying it with the wire that was provided with the kit. I'll give it another shot this weekend and keep this in mind.

What temp are you soldering/desoldering at? For what it's worth, I've the same exact desoldering pump and it's worked like a dream for me.

I've had really solid luck using the chisel shaped tip at 375, waiting a couple seconds for the solder to melt, then using the pump to remove it. Occasionally the legs of the switches will get stuck to the side from a bit of solder left over, however I'll usually use the tip of the soldering iron to push the leg towards the middle of the hole, so that way it can easily be removed.

[spanyam]

What temp are you soldering/desoldering at? For what it's worth, I've the same exact desoldering pump and it's worked like a dream for me.

I've had really solid luck using the chisel shaped tip at 375, waiting a couple seconds for the solder to melt, then using the pump to remove it. Occasionally the legs of the switches will get stuck to the side from a bit of solder left over, however I'll usually use the tip of the soldering iron to push the leg towards the middle of the hole, so that way it can easily be removed.

Oh that's good to know! Well I did just ruin the default tip that came with it, so I'll be switching over to the narrower tip provided. I was soldering at 350, but I'll try out 375. I'm also ordering a brass sponge for cleaning the tip. 

Most solder has a rosin core and an easy way to tell is if you see osome splattering fluid that solidifies when you use a 400 degree soldering iron.

The solder that came with the kit is 60/40 with 2% flux. Is that good enough?

Man, this is making me nervous.  I am planning on swapping on the switches on my FC900's for Zealios.  I hope they are easy to desolder!!  I have pretty good equipment though, so hopefully that helps!  I was able to replace a relay on the board of my Bosch dishwasher and it worked great for my first time ever soldering!

So I made a few critical mistakes while soldering for the first time, so hopefully this will help others here.

1. Did not tin the tip
2. Did not clean the tip or get any equipment required for doing so
3. Did not use desolder pump correctly
4. Left iron on with all that grime on it for like 2 hours while messing around and struggling.

Sooooooo, I think you'll be fine, as you seem to have already done some soldering before

[quasistellar]

Yeah the others made a good point too: if the solder doesn't all come out, go ahead and add some new solder before you suck it again.

[OfTheWild]

I just did my first bit of keyboard soldering/desoldering last night as well and so far i can say i realized:
1. Hotter is better. The faster it completely melts the less damage it seems to do by holding it too long.
2. I still had to push the pin to center it in the hole so it didn't stick to the side.
3. When soldering the new switch, Put the iron on the pin and after 2 seconds add the solder for a clean fill. I tried to add the solder and iron at the same time and I think it ran down the pin past the board. I waited for it to cool and then did it properly. seems to work ok.

[dgneo]

I just did my first bit of keyboard soldering/desoldering last night as well and so far i can say i realized:
1. Hotter is better. The faster it completely melts the less damage it seems to do by holding it too long.
2. I still had to push the pin to center it in the hole so it didn't stick to the side.
3. When soldering the new switch, Put the iron on the pin and after 2 seconds add the solder for a clean fill. I tried to add the solder and iron at the same time and I think it ran down the pin past the board. I waited for it to cool and then did it properly. seems to work ok.

A couple things regarding 1 and 3.

1: Hotter is better, but TO A POINT! Too hot and you'll risk burning the PCB. You really shouldn't need to go hotter than 375, 400 at the max IMO.
3: This is perfect, however make sure you add solder from the opposite side of the pin that your iron is on. Keeps it from getting your iron stuck to the pin, or even worse, lifting the pads.

Some good illustrations of different issues that can arise with through-hole soldering can be found here: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems

[jcoffin1981]

I too have  been having  all kinds of issues desoldering, although I've gotten very  good at  soldering.  One thing I did was replace the tips that came with the  iron  with a  10 pack of Hakko  tips for about 14 dollars or so.  I find  that these clean up better and last a lot longer than the stock tips.  Other than that I have not helpful advice as I have done more damage than good desoldering.

Yes I agree with you.  It is difficult to remove all the solder well enough  to remove the switch  without damaging the pcb or the switch.   An  iron and a pump  works well enough for a single switch, but  if you ar e doing an  entire  board you may need to invest in better tools, as I am  contemplating.

[spanyam]

chisel shaped tip at 375

BY THE WAY, y'all are talking about 375 degree F, right, not C? The Vastar iron's temperature control says degree Celcius on it, so I need to verify.