Please Help! Trying to fix Keyboard PCB

[Draxion]

So basically I took apart my ducky one 2 to lube my switches. I expected something to go wrong as it's my first time doing this. I've lubed a soldering all the switches back onto the keyboard however as expected some don't work. I've fixed some that didn't work using a bridge, however these http://prntscr.com/ofjhpq, 6,7, Y, U, H, J, N and M don't work and I can't find which connections to bridge. Help and input would be great, Thanks for the help in advance!

[ErgoMacros]

Hi, Have you tried "6" and "7"?
Looks like you have 2 entire "columns" that are not working. Usually this is a bad connection from the controller to that column.
'Luck!

[Draxion]

Yeah, I've already tried that unfortunately. When I bridge one of the keys to any other working keys they fire something, but just never anything in those two Columns.

[swedishpiehole]

This would be a lot easier for you if you had a multimeter to check the diodes and continuity. It can be really tricky to find where to make a bridge and a multimeter really helps.

[Draxion]

This would be a lot easier for you if you had a multimeter to check the diodes and continuity. It can be really tricky to find where to make a bridge and a multimeter really helps.

I should have one in the garage... So I'd just check which diodes in those two columns don't have current across them? Which would be the ones that need a bridge?

[swedishpiehole]

Since entire columns of keys don't work, it might just be one diode or solder pad that is causing the problem. If you inspect each solder pad (the metal ring around the hole where the pin comes through) you might be able to find which one got damaged or lifted. Same does for diodes, test each one to make sure they are all working. If that doesn't turn up the source of the problem, you could try what I did: test for continuity between each switch and its diode. The diodes should be marked with a D followed by the number that corresponds to the key position (usually starting with a K, probably on the other side of the PCB). Try each end of the diode with each pin of the switch until your multimeter reports continuity. Then do this for each switch/diode until you find where the break is. PCBs can be complex. When I had a lifted solder pad, I ended up having to make a bridge a few keys away to fix it.

[Draxion]

Since entire columns of keys don't work, it might just be one diode or solder pad that is causing the problem. If you inspect each solder pad (the metal ring around the hole where the pin comes through) you might be able to find which one got damaged or lifted. Same does for diodes, test each one to make sure they are all working. If that doesn't turn up the source of the problem, you could try what I did: test for continuity between each switch and its diode. The diodes should be marked with a D followed by the number that corresponds to the key position (usually starting with a K, probably on the other side of the PCB). Try each end of the diode with each pin of the switch until your multimeter reports continuity. Then do this for each switch/diode until you find where the break is. PCBs can be complex. When I had a lifted solder pad, I ended up having to make a bridge a few keys away to fix it.

There is definitely 1 of those with lifted pad that's for sure maybe 2. That's why I've been trying to make bridge, but haven't been able to find where to bridge it. I will try testing for continuity and the diodes when I get home for work. Thanks a lot for the input.
Added picture of the PCB where the switches aren't working

[Shot4213]

Hey draxion, did you ever figure something out?