Looking for direction on an uncommon case (probably)

[suicidal_orange]

If you have access to a bootloader flasher you should be able to get one, if not both, of the chips you have to work but no harm having another spare.  The 'Teensy' might even be able to reincarnate the 'pro micro' as it works in the Arduino GUI, I thought this needed random components which is why I suggested a raspberry pi.  I've learned my thing for today and only been awake a few miunutes )

Good luck, and please keep me updated with your progress.

[socratisator]

I'll will without fail. That's the least I can do considering the effort you put in helping me !

[socratisator]

Hello Suicidal_orange,
I received the second board yesterday (more thant 2 months of delivery time >_>). Visualy, it looks the same, but after loading the hex file you sent me, i have characters in notepad after shorting random pins !!!
To double check, I plugged the old board, load the same HEX file and get the nefarious "ALT + WIN + SHIFT + CTRL" poping in AquaKeyTester.
All this time, I had a faulty chips 
It's my last day of winter vacation but more than ever, I'm determined to bring my keyboard from the dead 

btw : happy new year

[socratisator]

Hello Suicidal_orange,

I cut the extra column of keys (epoxy board + steel frame), I finished the soldering, plugged the keyboard and started AquaKeyTest.exe.
Here the result after pressing each keys :

As shown, some keys don't work, the anoying ones are  "A" and "F12". What is strange is that the pair of pins for "A" is (7,13) in the python file, and the 7 is used elsewhere ("U" for exemple - (7/5)) just like the 13 ("W" - (3/13)).
Thus, for me, the electrical circuit is good, which left the key itself as a culprit. I'll check that with my voltmeter.
 
You said earlier that sending the wrong code ("Q" for "A") is not a problem and can be adjusted programatically, but I how exactly ?
Is it in the config file "cm_storm.py" used in "Easy AVR" when going to "File > New..." ?
How can I send the key that contains ">" and "<" in Easy AVR ?
I guess a need the list of keycode for a french layout ?

[socratisator]

I have confirmed that the "A" key closed the circuit til the pins (F5 / C4) so the soldering and wiring is good.
The "F12" key however was supposed to be on pins (F2 / C3) but I couldn't confirm that : either my initial mapping (on the Excel sheet) was wrong or cutting the last column of key somehow break the circuit for this key.
Anyway, I shorted the leg of the "F12" key to another using the same pins. Doing so, I could measure with the ohmeter that the circuit was good til the pins (F2 / C3) on the controler.
Electrically, all is good as far as I know, but pressing "A" or "F12" is still not detected. What am I missing ?

[yui]

is it detected when you short on the Teensy ? (just a stab in the dark) it should produce the character you are missing if the problem is on the wiring side, if it does not it would be on the teensy side (bad pin, or wrong keymap)

[socratisator]

Thanks for your reply Yui, today "F12" is working (probably good yesterday too, but needed an unplug - plug sequence)
As for the "A" key, I was misleaded by the marking at the back of the keyboard that is QWERTY... In fact it's the "Q" (next to the TAB key) that doesn't work.
"Q" is linked to pins (F7 / C4) that translate to (7,13) in the keymap file.
When  (F7 / C4) is shorted directly on the teensy, nothing happens.
When the "Q" key is pressed, I can confirm with the ohmeter that the circuit is closed (1.2 MOhm measured) between F7 and C4 pins.
"TAB" key uses (F6 / C4) pins and is working fine, so the wiring for C4 is OK (?)
"W" key uses (F7 / D1) pins and is fine too, wiring for F7 is also OK (?).
All theses observations are somewhat incompatible

[suicidal_orange]

Happy new year to you too!

My hex was made from your first config which was slightly wrong, looking now it stops at P and it still uses pin D6... good for checking the chip works but really not usable.  If you haven't already build your own hex and it should work now you have a good chip.

It gets very hard talking about the matrix and it's possible you cut some connections when you chopped the end off so they would need fixing.  As yui said short the pins and if it works solder a wire between the switch pins your notes say are connected to fix it.  Same with the diodes - they're small but you can attach wires to the pads if you've cut the connection. 

As to French - it doesn't exist.  Most of the keys will show US legends and the two extra ISO keys will show UK legends.  When you click on a key in the mapper then on the button at the end of Assignment it shows you a standard layout keyboard so just make yours look like that and Windows will take care of making it type in French.

[socratisator]

My hex file was indeed full of errors back then, and still was until now.
It's all good now, each key send the right code and once switched to french keyboard in Windows, I've got a fully fonctionnal french keyboard !
Big thanks to you and Yui 
Next steps :
1) the LED
2) enclosure !

[socratisator]

I read the page dedicated to LED in Easy AVR : http://dhowland.github.io/EasyAVR/build/html/leds.html
I try to link thoses informations with the Easy AVR GUI and the python config file and... I'm still confused.
For starter, I just want the backlighting.
It's obviously in this section of the config file :

Code: [Select]

# The num_leds, num_ind, led_hardware, backlighting, num_bl_enab,
# and bl_modes parameters tell the firmware how to operate the LEDs
# for indicators (for example, Caps Lock) and for backlighting.  In
# order to fine-tune the configs, these may have to be defined manually
# but it is easiest to use make_led_config.
# LED_DRIVER_PULLUP is used when the pin is connected to the anode of
# the LED and the cathode is connected to ground.
# LED_DRIVER_PULLDOWN is used when the pin is connected to the cathode
# of the LED and the anode is connected to the power supply.
# Hand-wired boards will usually want to use LED_DRIVER_PULLDOWN.
# If there are no backlights, just leave the list empty (ie. just []).

num_leds, num_ind, led_hardware, backlighting, num_bl_enab, bl_modes = make_led_config(
    led_pins = [],
    led_dir=LED_DRIVER_PULLDOWN,
    backlight_pins = [],
    backlight_dir=LED_DRIVER_PULLDOWN
)


Do I just need to select an availiable pin on teensy (B0 for example) and write in like this ?

Code: [Select]

...
backlight_pins = [B0],
...
The second paragraph about LED is for indicator, and I don't want that for now.

For the wiring, I think the LED was controled by a secondary board :

Linked to the main board by a flat cable like this :

I've got the feeling that I just need to wire the 'B0' pin of the teensy to the +5 volt on the board above, but it's just a feeling and I don't want to fry my board/ the LED after so many hours of work 

[suicidal_orange]

How did you read voltages, are they from before you replaced the controller?  Very organised if so

I now have a brain again so feel safe guessing that you have RGB backlighting and that would mean the 5 volt pin in the socket is power from the USB on the main board, the 2 volt pins are each one colour's power supply going back to the main board and the 0 volt ones are the ground fort that colour.  If so connecting a resistor between the 5v pin on the Teensy and a 2 volt on the socket and GND on the Teensy to the matching 0 volt on the socket will make a colour light up.  Or if it's single colour maybe two rows will light up, or maybe a random pattern (if it was designed by the same guy who designed the switch matrix ))

Either way I think you're going to need 3 pins to control the 2 volts and maybe a transistor on each to turn on/connect the 5v pin on the Teensy as this pin can supply more current which is needed to light lots of LEDs. 

[socratisator]

Glad to hear your brain is back 
Yes, I noted the voltage before switching the controller (but I'm screwed anyway...more on that later).
This keyboard is red backlight only and I don't care about the fancy wave or whatever effects, I never tried so I cannot even say if this one is capable of such feat (nerver installed the sofware btw).
I discoverd that the retail DIY boards show resistor beside each key, but mine has none, I think the second board (on the left botton side of the picture) take care of reducing intensity.
I can still plug the old "power" board (with USB hub and external power connector) BUT I cannot plug the second (in reverse U form).

Thus I cannot track the 2V and 5V circuit anymore, and I can't tell where to plug the control pin of the teensy 
Also the fact that i'll need a transistor means another board to accomodate in the enclosure too... I'm far for being done here !
Still, I can experiment with the intel you nicely provide