Assistance request for Drop CTRL

[SpinningHook]

I appreciate that hotswap boards are known to have issues like this, so I am hoping that the following won't require me to ditch mine. I believe a bent contact from a YOK Trash Panda may have shorted my L key. I have tried re-flashing the firmware to see if that would fix it, but the problem appears to be one with the PCB, as I have not been able to get it to work no matter which switch that I install (I have tested the same switches afterwards to make sure that they didn't coincidentally have issues of their own and they worked just fine otherwise). Other than throwing it away, do I have any other options, hopefully ones that don't require additional costs? Any help is appreciated. 

[pixelpusher]

Are you saying the keyboard doesn’t work at all or just that one switch?

[SpinningHook]

Specifically, just the slot for the L key.

[pixelpusher]

You'll need to take it apart and check the hotswap socket on that switch.  It will help if you can upload a photo of the back of the PCB on that switch so that we can see the socket.  Most likely, the bent pin pushed one of the hotswap arms loose on the back of the PCB.  Hopefully it just broke the solder joint and didn't rip the pad off of the PCB.  Either way, it's fixable. 

You can get a general idea of how to fix it by watching this video.  You'll need a soldering iron for a proper repair.  Resolder the arm of the hotswap socket onto the pad below it on the PCB. You might be able to just press it back into place and put some tape or hot glue on it, but it will work loose eventually, or when you try to swap switches again.  I believe this video shows what to do if it's ripped off, by jumping to the diode beside it with a wire.  Also, it shows how to reattach it to the pad. 

or just google it

[SpinningHook]

Gotcha - I suspected that might be the issue, but I am a novice and didn't want to assume and get myself into further trouble. I will open the board up later today and see if there's any noticeable damage as such and see if I can get a decent picture of it to share for further guidance. Thanks for the help.

[SpinningHook]

Haven't had a chance to open up the board yet, but I realized earlier that the reason I was having issues with getting the Pandas into the slot (which led to my impatience and therefore my issue) was because the Panda housing wasn't completely closed and it was getting caught on the frame. For context, I was making my first attempt at Frankensteining "Holy Pandas" aka putting Halo Clear stems in YOK Trash Pandas. As I don't have a proper switch opener, I was using a small flat head to pry them open as genteel as possible. I realized after the fact that some of them I hadn't done a particularly good job of making sure that they were closed all the way. Certainly, a lesson in patience and being observant.

[SpinningHook]

So, I tried the lazy route first and contacted Drop about a replacement, but they wanted everything returned, including the switches, which I don't feel like taking the time to revert them back to their original state, nor pay for the shipping costs to return the keyboard. Below I am going to include some pics I took, so if anyone wants to spot check them for me for any issues that may not be readily noticeable by myself, it would be appreciated. One of them will show where I apparently brute forced the F6 socket out entirely. The other two will be the front and the back of the socket/PCB for the L key. The following link that I am posting is where I intend to get the replacement sockets from, as they seem to be the same as the ones currently attached to the board: https://kbdfans.com/collections/keyboard-part/products/mechanical-keyboard-switches-kailh-pcb-socket - I understand that I am asking a fair amount and again any help is appreciated, since, as I stated earlier, I am a novice.

In regards to needing to do some soldering, I have equipment and feel comfortable enough to do so. However, I am wondering if the additional wiring in the video that pixelpusher posted is necessary in this instance or if I can skip that particular part.

[suicidal_orange]

Not sure which socket is not working so doesn't look like there's much damage.  If you short the two metal pads using anything conductive (scissors, a bent paperclip, bit of wire...) that's the same as pressing the switch so try that near the middle of the socket and see if it types.  Assuming that works you can replace the socket with the one linked with no extra wires as it's just the contacts inside that are damaged.  There's no harm to be done trying to bend the contacts back first though - if there's enough room to slide anything down the outsides from below I'd have to try.

As to the missing F9 it also looks fine so same again - short the two pads, if it outputs (Aqua key test can confirm) just solder the socket back on.  Unless it got destroyed in the removal...

[SpinningHook]

Sorry - first picture, it's the socket pair near the middle (native L key) - I appreciate that's not the best picture, but I couldn't seem to get the flash to show inside the lower socket even after several attempts. Second pic - the socket adapter labeled "D60" is the aforementioned native L key one. If A closer picture is more helpful, let em know. Last pic is the one showing the missing F6 key socket adapter at the spot labeled as D7. I did use a browser key tester for the F6 adapter, as I still have it; it's just attached. It seemed to work okay when I tested the contacts. I will try again the L key one.

And thanks for the link to the Aqua Key Test.

[SpinningHook]

Got it - I was able to solder the L key socket so that the one end that was a bit loose was back in place and now registers without issue. I was able to get the F6 socket to stay in place, but it's still not registering all the time. Don't care about that one as I almost never use the function keys, anyway. Thanks again for the feedback and recommendations.

[typo]

Drop is a very good company. These boards unfortunately die if you look at them wrong. Drop is aware of this. They will take back the board in stock condition with all original accessories. You are absolutely going to have a doorstop down the road out of warranty. I highly suggest you exchange it or receive a refund right now!

[Maledicted]

Drop is a very good company. These boards unfortunately die if you look at them wrong. Drop is aware of this. They will take back the board in stock condition with all original accessories. You are absolutely going to have a doorstop down the road out of warranty. I highly suggest you exchange it or receive a refund right now!

What instances are there of these boards being irreparable? If anything, this just looks like a good example of why soldered switches are more reliable, for your hotswap vs soldered thread.

[Sup]

Drop is a very good company. These boards unfortunately die if you look at them wrong. Drop is aware of this. They will take back the board in stock condition with all original accessories. You are absolutely going to have a doorstop down the road out of warranty. I highly suggest you exchange it or receive a refund right now!

What instances are there of these boards being irreparable? If anything, this just looks like a good example of why soldered switches are more reliable, for your hotswap vs soldered thread.

True this is the issue i have with hotswap unreliable. Also calling Drop a good company. I wouldn't call them good in the quality department since they auto routed everything on the PCB. Couldn't they hire a experienced community member for creating a PCB for them smh.

[typo]

Oh, i fully agree soldered is much more reliable. It completely depends on WHO soldered it! I have heaps of boards with bad solder jobs! even many TOPRE's! Back when i was able to solder I have state of the art equipment i could do a failproof job. not everyone can. even in commercial factories. this is unfortunate. In this case hot swap due to being SMD is in fact often more reliable so long as you never swap them!

sup, Drop does not manufacture anything! They sell stuff. They do not even design their stuff. I meant they are a good company as far as returns. They are honest. Try doing business with computer upgrade king. Good way to lose 3 grand. Honesty is a big deal today.

I am glad you folks started taking me more seriously though. I just started spending more time here again because I retired since I am very ill. I honestly really do enjoy keyboards and am a geek to the bone. Always have been.