Hi franzdom. Welcome to Geekhack.
But you make it sound like this is exactly the right place for you. You made it feel like we're all sitting in a circle at switchaholics anonymous, and I think that, in a way, we are.
Thank you!
However, instead of a group of struggling abstainers I know I have landed in a den of enablers 
You're welcome.
I suppose you're probably right, or it is a mix of both. I don't think those anonymous groups ever really prevent a relapse.
The K70 is one of my favorite keyboards ever, the K65 as well. I own even more than you do, and plan to modify them all. 
What sort of switches have you got in them?
I am very interested in learning what I can do to them other than o-rings or fixing the repeating keys on the lemon. Don't get me wrong I do plan on fixing it, just not sure if it's a board or a switch problem, I suspect it's the former.
The first was the broken one, it's blue led with red switches. My spawn insisted on silver speed. His has red LEDs. He was 14 and now is 18. He still loves them.
After one of my keys on the blue one went dead and I tried to warranty it but was able to fix it with a reset or firmware update. Now several of the keys repeat with only one press registering. That started with just one key now it's more than one. At some point I picked up an RGB and it has worked really well. I like it but its keys are also shiny and in need of PBT replacement. What are some of my options with replacement keys for a K70?
My Filco at work is a Ninja 100% with I believe MX brown. The new one is standard printed keys 80% with MX red.
My gaming rig's main keyboard is my first (known) mechanical, a K70 with MX reds. I have had almost as long as they have been on the market. I have noticed that if I let it get really, really dirty, I had similar problems with it. Have you pulled all of the caps and cleaned the plate thoroughly recently? I think people either love or hate O-rings. I have only tried one type, some old Rosewills. My reds felt, to me, like rubber domes with them, so I just took them all back off. I'm not sure if it was the case then, but they do make differen't types of O-rings though, and some people do end up liking very specific types while hating others. Another option, is Cherry MX silent reds, which have rubber dampeners built into the switch design (you could desolder your old switches and solder these in, if you end up liking them). I have heard very good things about them. Kailh also recently released Box silent reds, which I very much want to try.
I like key shine, to each their own. Corsair actually makes thick shine through PBT double shot key caps specifically for their mechanical keyboards. That's the most common option that's compatible. I noticed that Aliexpress sells some Corsair-specific sets as well for quite a bit cheaper, but none of the ones I ordered have come in yet, so I don't know how good they may be. The bottom row of keys on Corsair are almost all non-standard, and most sets not meant specifically for "gaming" keyboards don't accommodate for this.
I put a standard dolch-ish double shot set on a K65, but I had to cut slits in the stem mounts of the space bar with a razer blade, and the Windows keys (and maybe menu key) of the original set had to be retained. The spacing isn't perfect like this, but it works, and you hit those keys rarely enough that it doesn't make much difference.
The nice thing about the RGB K70s is the LEDs are SMD, all of mine that aren't RGB have in-switch LEDs, so you've got to desolder the LEDs before you can even desolder and remove the switches. That's a pain.
I'm not a huge fan of Cherry MX red. They're relatively smooth, but they seem just a tad too light. I can accidentally actuate them by resting my fingers on them. I imagine speed silvers would be even worse, but I haven't tried them myself. I have liked Kailh box reds, much smoother, but even with those I may want to put in a bit heavier springs if I swapped them into my dedicated gaming board.
I'm not a tactile guy, and I have never tried Topre myself, but I can reasonably guess that I would like them much, much more than Cherry MX brown as well, as I think I would actually prefer a regular rubber dome to MX browns. That's not a very good tactile switch, in my humble opinion. Have you tried any others? I haven't tried many myself, more a clicky guy, but Kailh's box browns are way smoother, and do feel like they have a defined bump, and Alps tactiles are pretty nice if you ask me.
I have never tried MX blue but want to, and I am very much considering the Kishsaver if I'm not too late. I guess I like smooth as well as tactile and like I said, I have a problem that does not have a simple fix 
If you haven't, I would order a switch tester with as many switches of whatever type you're interested as you can get. I think most people eventually wander away from Cherry switches entirely. In general, the Chinese clones are smoother and more refined, while also being cheaper, and then there are even a bunch of fantastic new switch designs that have come out in the last few years that have much nicer tactile events. I typed happily away on MX blues (you guessed it, another K70) at work for 4 or 5 years straight, but then I got an IBM Model F XT for very cheap, which showed me that things could be so much better. That lead to an F AT (since the XT layout is too strange), and then a Leading Edge DC-2014 with Alps SKCM blue. Those are the two best clicky switches I have ever felt, the Alps blues taking the cake. For modern switches, the Kailh box jades and navies are incredible, very very close to as good as the best classic switches I have felt. Now, after experiencing all of this, I like to describe MX blues as feeling and sounding like you're typing on plastic grocery bags. That is my personal opinion though, and they did feel wonderful to me until I had felt more refined switches down the road.
By Kishaver, I assume you mean one of Ellipse's new production F62s, the one with only an alphanumeric block:
I have an F77 I got lucky and found on Ebay ... with another ordered. I do believe that he's still taking orders on his website:
modelfkeyboards.comI jumped through all of the hoops for a reportedly earlier ship date, like paying for a custom serial number, getting the board with blank caps, etc, etc, back when he announced that these were finally shipping. I think that was back in January or so. Still no real ETA on when it may actually ship, so that's just something to keep in mind.
I do recommend the Zinc case, although you can order one as well. They're very, very thick and heavy. I seriously think I could anchor a boat with it.
When you say smooth and tactile, do you mean linear (MX red, speed silver) and tactile (MX brown and Topre)? MX blue is what is considered clicky, because it makes an audible click. Clickies tend to have more tactility, and that tactility is more refined, than tactiles. The benefit of tactiles is usually a lack of, or great reduction of, sound. Blue Alps, buckling spring (IBM Models M and F), Kailh box thick clicks, etc, are all clickies. Just some things to consider.
