Note this is an actual photo, not a render. The board exists and was used to type this post.
Presenting Overton130, an enormous PCB inspired by the GH-122 and the fact I've become addicted to media controls on the left side. I realized that by having a PCB of my own, I could be in control of my destiny-- when a new switch comes out, I either have spares or can order them, and I don't have to roll the dice trying to desolder and salvage a board, or wait for the next group buy that may never come.
What do you get?- 129 keys, ANSI-1.25 layout, with a rotary knob. That's the only supported layout.
- Solder-in-place MX-compatible switch support, with regular through-hole diodes
- Plate-mount stabilizers only
- Designed to use a Teensy++ style controller
How To Get It?This is an un-group-buy. No middlemen. No ETA Summer 2029. The attached files let you get the parts made yourself, or build something even more terrifying and weird.
- EasyEDA export, so you can make any further design changes (i. e. adding PCB mount stabilizers or a new layout)
- Gerber File so you can send it out to be fabbed. I was reasonably satisfied with JLCPCB, but the shipping cost was almost as much as 5 PCBs!
- DXF file for a basic sandwich case; clearly I started with output from Swill's Plate Builder. I used Big Blue Saw's 0.05 inch 6061 aluminium option
What else do you need?- 129 MX-compatible switches
- 1 EC11-style encoder
- 130 diodes, 1N4148
- 3 LEDs, 3mm
- 3 resistors, value depends on LED chosen; I used 330 ohms and amber LEDs
- 24 M3 screws
- 12 M3 standoffs. By using different height at the back and sides, you can get angled case effects
- Teensy++
- Feet of choice
- Plate-mount stabilizers
- Keycaps and knob
- Paint, solder, etc.
- 90 degree USB cable, strongly recommended so the cable doesn't stick our the right side of the unit
What does it cost?The PCBs cost about $75 delivered from JLCPCB (minimum order of 5, mid-grade finish); the plate about $150 delivered from Big Blue Saw. With incidentals (encoder, paint, solder, stabilizers, diodes, resistors, LEDs, Teensy++) You'll probably be into it about $300 plus switches, caps, and whatever knob you want. But you'll also have four extra PCBs when you want to change the switches!
Obviously, economies of scale are possible if you want to group up and bulk order, but I don't want to orchestrate orders or end up having to file a Schedule C later. It's up to you.
FAQsWhat's the name about?Early American half dollars are often collected by "Overton Variety numbers" (referencing an old reference book of different die pairings). "Overton 130" would be a reasonable choice. I was looking for something with a "130" related reference and this was the best I could think of.
And the slogan?"To Be Esteemed, Be Useful" was written on the edge of a 1792 cent design.
Why no ISO/PCB stabilizers/MX+ALPS/etc.Simplicity. By building what I wanted and only what I wanted, I can minimize the risk of surprise failures.
Why the stupid sparse matrix?Easier to sanity check and easy to set up your favourite firmware. QMK is reasonably easy to configure for it, but I don't like it as much as EasyAVR... but EasyAVR doesn't do encoders :/ I experimented with a 13x10 matrix and trying to set up a Black Pill controller instead of a Teensy++, but I couldn't make kicad do what I wanted.
Lessons Learned- The design used one of the canned MX mount footprints on EasyEDA; it looks nice with the plated hole, but the hole's a bit large and the plating can get in the way when soldering. PCB-mount would probably suck with this board.
- The position of the controller makes a huge difference in how easily EasyEDA can auto-route it. Even after this, auto-routing needed some minor cleanup, mostly because it would add two traces connecting the same points but going different ways
