mx blue acting like brown

[typo]

i am sure this has been mentioned before but i can't find it.

one key on my das s pro only clicks if i hit the very bottom left edge of it. if i press it in the center like i usually would it does not click. is there any way i can fix this?

thanks

[itlnstln]

Try pulling the cap, pushing the stem down a little, and spraying an air duster down into it.  The clicking mechanism in blues can be susceptible to dust.

[ch_123]

I had an issue like this. It turned out that a little hair had got lodged into the switch through a gap on the bottom. Look around the switch for any hairs, remove them with a tweezers if you see any. If not, try blasting the switch with an air duster through the gaps around the bottom.

[typo]

thanks guys. i'll try this.

[itlnstln]

Just in case you hadn't seen this... here's what you're working with (from Qwerter's Clinic):

[ch_123]

I'm confused by the Blue Cherry... Is the click made by that white slider giving way?

[erricrice]

I'm confused by the Blue Cherry... Is the click made by that white slider giving way?

EDIT(fixed): The click is NOT the little metal leaf(red part in the diagram) slapping back against the plastic once it gets over the bump.

[itlnstln]

I'm confused by the Blue Cherry... Is the click made by that white slider giving way?

Yes.

The click is the little metal leaf(red part in the diagram) slapping back against the plastic once it gets over the bump.

No. Browns and clears would click, too, if that were the case.

[typo]

fixed. compressed air. thanks guys!

[noctua]

No. Browns and clears would click, too, if that were the case.

The click sound occures ONLY then the two metal platelet comes "quickly" together.
And this "quickly" is defined by the form of the plastic stamper, more exactly by
the steepness of its angle! In other words the two contact platelet on the brown mx
switches comes more "routed" together, in contrast to the blue mx switches
there the two contact platelet comes "snap" wise together..

MX Switch Details

[Soarer]

if someone can read Japanese I bet the Japanese script says the Japanese version of "Click".

ka chi small-tsu... meaning catch? Or maybe just onomatopoeic somehow?

[noctua]

Translation from that link.

Show Image

The metal parts don't make the sound.  That's why the Cherry blues sounds like you're shaking a bag of legos.

No no no, take an blue mx switch and open it, then perform an keystroke and
you can "see" and "hear" from what i talk.. the click sound comes then the
two metal contacts come together..

[noctua]

Translation from that link.

Show Image

The metal parts don't make the sound.  That's why the Cherry blues sounds like you're shaking a bag of legos.

You were right! I have opened on blue mx switch and have performed some
keystrokes, the white plastic snap to the bottom..

I have deleted my previous wrong post, sorry -- mea culpa..

[noctua]

Translation from that link.

Show Image

The metal parts don't make the sound.  That's why the Cherry blues sounds like you're shaking a bag of legos.

And you were right, ripster. I have opened one blue mx switch and have blocked
the white plastic "sled", and it was silence during keystrokes (without bump)..

I have removed my previous post..

[erricrice]

Translation from that link.

Show Image

The metal parts don't make the sound.  That's why the Cherry blues sounds like you're shaking a bag of legos.

Ahh, I see.  Sorry for the bad info, I just assumed they worked the same way that ALPS do for the click.

Once again, ALPS confuses people, and it even had nothing to do with alps this time!!!

[TheSoundofTyping]

This probably reflects badly on my previous forum experiences (which would be inaccurate), but I love how this forum just 'works' so well. In this thread, we see the problem solved, other people learning things, related topics spawned, and friendly banter along the way- everything a good thread needs, and nothing more.  And I see that in so many threads here. This forum is like some iconic 1950s life that hasn't yet been ruined by capitalism.

[Soarer]

I know know the Kanji for Small.  Big and Small Flush are on every flush toilet in Japan.  It's the other stuff that gets confusing.

Loan words written in Katakana are pretty easy usually. The 'small-tsu' character (sokuon) is basically a slight pause, but in this case: "The sokuon is also used at the end of a sentence, to indicate a glottal stop (a sharp or cut-off articulation), which may indicate angry or surprised speech."

[PAINKILLER]

Looks like a smiley symbol to me. Can you show me how does the japanese symbol for "facepalm" look like (just curious)?

[Soarer]

Why? You wanna go troll some Japanese forums?!!
Google says 顔ヤシ, but it's never right with Japanese lol. I reckon ファスパルム (pronounced how you'd imagine a Japanese person to say 'facepalm', literally fasuparumu), to indicate that it's a foreign expression.

[microsoft windows]

I never bothered installing the Japanese language packs for IE4.

[PAINKILLER]

I don't have japanese support either. I was just wondering if they indeed use separate symbols for some smileys - that would be funny to see.

[Soarer]

Education is... ample :-D

(/)_(\) Scared
(/)_-) Facepalm
(.)(.) (O_O)

[PAINKILLER]

|(|)|(|_|)|(|)|

[typo]

i think the people on this forum are great. try being a newb at a nra forum or something lol. they will treat you as bad as they can. i think that is because what is discussed on this forum is enjoyed by a different demographic.

that being said, i still have a small issue. the switch now clicks but not nearly as loud as any other on this board. more compressed air,take it apart? it is not a big deal i rarely use that key. i'd rather not risk breaking it altogether if that is possible. it clicks properly if i just push the bottom right corner of the keycap. not if i hit it in the center.

expert surgeons! i ask of you, what may be the cause and it's remedy?
thank you!

[ricercar]

I have a vintage AT/XT switchable "HeadStart" keyboard of Cherry blues, of which perhaps half the switches sound like Cherry browns. While holding down the sliders, I've sprayed the interior of each and every switch with compressed air. This changed the situation from 2/3 sounding like browns to 1/2 sounding like browns.

Advice?

[typo]

i came to the conclusion on my own that i better quit while i am ahead. i don't use that key often. it clicks still. it just does not have the loud "ping" it is supposed to. no big deal. i am not going to press my luck. i already put a teeny tiny scratch on the case slipping with the key puller. that should be a sign that if i keep pressing the issue i am going to end up sorry. i am guessing it is not something stuck though, i think the little metal thing is loose that makes the click. i can wiggle the stem way more than it should. so it must be a bum switch. still, i don't see any reason to rma it. i almost did rma it for a different issue but that fixed itself. i guess i can keep pressing that key and see if it starts working better. i have 50 million tries

[Brodie337]

Metadot, from what I've heard, should take the keyboard back. I don't think you should have to put up with little things like that in a keyboard that is that expensive...

[typo]

it is such a little thing. if they send me another there is likely to be some other quirk. it has been established that the costar boards are seldom perfect. plus i will be without it waiting for one with some other issue possibly.

[typo]

after pressing it rapidly many times, it is fixed. different keys make slightly different click sounds. i have read here that is completely normal.

thank you guys for the compressed air suggestion.

i would not rma one of these cherry boards unless a key completely failed to register or something like that. with my luck they would send me something worse. anyhow all is well now.

[typo]

the switch is not clicking again. i am guessing it is not something stuck in it but with cats all over here it is very possible. i am guessing i can take apart the switch,clean it and bend the "pin". can i take apart the switch without opening the board or desoldering? if so, could someone please point me to a diagram or instructions? i really don't want to send this back so the next one can have some other problem. these boards are just finicky. so if i can't service it i'll deal with it. i hardly use that key anyhow.

thanks.

[typo]

i think that particular key simply makes less sound due to it's location. i did manage to get it apart and found no problems.  bending the pin made little difference. we all know that the click is amplified by the keycaps and other factors. i don't think this is an rma issue.
at least the controler started working again but i think that was the ps/2 port anyways.

[bionicroach]

I had this issue with a few keys on my Das S.  The fix that worked for me was:

• Disconnect power from the keyboard.
• Remove the keycap of a problem switch.
• Press the keystem down slightly, then blast compressed air into the opening.
• Using an eyedroper, put a tiny drop of 91% isopropyl alchohol into the switch, while actuating it rapidly.
• Repeat if necessary.
• Once the clicking returns, spray the switch with compressed air again to help dry out any remaining moisture.
• The alcohol should evaporate pretty quickly, but just to be on the safe side, you might want to let the keyboard sit a while before plugging it back in.

I suspect this worked for me because the non-clicky switches were maybe a little bit over-lubricated, or had some kind of dust or debris sticking to the grease inside that was not dislodging with compressed air alone.  Obviously, you don't want to overdo it with any sort of liquid, and the alcohol is probably not great for the plastic, so definitely go easy and avoid spilling a bunch of it on any part of the keyboard.