I do plan on getting some JWICK blacks to try them out and see how they compare to the MX Blacks I currently have
The OP [Original Poster] is on holiday now, but I gave him some suggestions for mid-weight linears to sample when he gets back.
I think he could go one of two routes: buy sample orders (1-35 switches) of a few promising types, and maybe test them in combination with a cheap hotswap like Tester68/KBM68/GK68.
Or, find sample "switch tester" kits that include JWICK, Gateron, and some other linears.
That way, he will know what to put in a keyboard. Plus, try those different springs in MX Black.
With regard to JWICK Blacks, they seem very promising. I once purchased 90 JWICK T1 for about $25, and they are honestly pretty decent. Not too scratchy, fairly tight housings, and there's factory-lube. I should go and try them out again.
You should be able to get 90 for $25-30, no more than that.
The JWICK Black seems to come in two weights: 58.5 G and 63.5 G. The latter would be a more intermediate weight, none of them are weighted like MX Black. You would want the newer R2 design, I imagine:
https://keyboard.sg/collections/jwk/products/jwick-black-lubricated-linear-switchesAnd you can buy individual JWICK samples directly from Durock's store on AliExpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004336536779.htmlIn all likelihood, the weakness of the JWICK Black is likely the stock spring, which can sometimes crunch. Best-practice would be to both lube and film the JWICKs, and use aftermarket springs. That would turn these budget switches into top-tier in practice.
You would think in terms of stock intermediate linears, the quality chain might go up a little with price:
JWICK Black > Gateron Pro Yellow V 2.0 > Gateron CAP Milky Yellow > AKKO Cream Yellow V3 > Durock intermediate linears > Gateron Ink > Gateron Oil King > Zeal linears
With AULA / Leobog towards the bottom of decent switches, and KTT underrated for their price.
It's probably not a straight line, though. Some of those switches require less or no work from the user [All the Gaterons can be used stock, but benefit from lube, cheaper and older JWK/Durocks need L + F, AKKO Cream is supposed to be no-fuss.]
Someone feel free to correct me on this, as I only have direct experience with KTT and Durock linears. Typically, the Gateron Pro and especially CAP switches are factory-lubed, and only a discerning person needs to lube them. JWICKs are okay out-of-box, but reach their full potential with user modification. Maybe the best price-to-performance ratio when hand-prepared.