CM Quickfire Rapid keyboard mod - can I sandblast it?

[phinix]

That soft-rubber coating on CM Quickfire Rapid keyboard case is terrible. I hate the feeling of it when touched, also it wears off with time.

Could this be sandblasted? Or would I need to do it manually with sand paper?
I did that ages ago, but it was horrible process, getting that freakin sh*t off in small corners of the case did not work out perfectly and I binned the whole case...

I could just order that aluminum case for CM/Filco keyboards, but I like the overall plastic case of this board.

[TheSoulhunter]

Sandblasting plastic is possible...
But you have to use low pressure (50 PSI or perhaps less) and also a gentle media (like baking soda).
A wide nozzle helps as well. You want to keep the friction/energy you induce, spread and low, to avoid melting spots.

That said, I don't know about the rubber coating, and how it will react to the sandblasting.
There are coatings that are very sticky and won't get off well trough abrasion.
Perhaps a bit of a gamble....


Btw, there was a old related thread:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39533.0

[Findecanor]

I've used white spirit and a lot of rubbing (sometimes with sandpaper) to get rubberised coatings off where it has started to decompose.
Then wipe it with alcohol to get the first solvent off.

[phinix]

I've used white spirit and a lot of rubbing (sometimes with sandpaper) to get rubberised coatings off where it has started to decompose.
Then wipe it with alcohol to get the first solvent off.

Thanks, I will try that.

[pixelpusher]

Following this thread to see how it worked out.  I have 2 of these tops that have gone all sticky and are deteriorating.  I usually just swap out to a new top    But now I'm on my last one!  I did sand down and paint a CM board but I don't think it was the rubberized version.  I will say... if you plan to hand sand and paint it, you really need to be meticulous about sanding.  You will probably see any swirl marks left from the sanding when you paint. 

[phinix]

Following this thread to see how it worked out.  I have 2 of these tops that have gone all sticky and are deteriorating.  I usually just swap out to a new top    But now I'm on my last one!  I did sand down and paint a CM board but I don't think it was the rubberized version.  I will say... if you plan to hand sand and paint it, you really need to be meticulous about sanding.  You will probably see any swirl marks left from the sanding when you paint.

I would prefer powder coating but that is not so popular done on plastic. So would need to take it to car repair and get them to paint it, like few layers.

[Findecanor]

Powder coating is for metal. The metal gets hooked up to a power source that makes it electrically charged. Then when the plastic powder is sprayed on, it gets attracted to the charge. Then the part gets baked in an oven to melt the plastic particles together. I'd think that last part could be difficult without warping the plastic part to begin with.

When sanding, the method for getting a perfect result is to use progressively finer sandpaper, with a cleaning in-between each. Each successive step should be with less than twice the grit than the step before.

An auto repair shop could use paints that are a bit more durable and stand up to prolonged use more than what is easy to buy and use as a hobbyist.

I think I would have just spray it with black spray paint, if I did it. The first thing to think about to get a good result is to spray even thin layers and let each one dry before the next.
My long-term daily driver is spray-painted, and the paint on it is very worn by now. I was going to repaint it years ago but couldn't find a new can of the same type ... I'm on the lookout for a "vintage beige computer" spray paint.

[TheSoulhunter]

If you are going to paint it, my advice is to use 2k epoxy based spray-paint instead standard acrylic spray-paint.
Acrylic paint, on surfaces that get touched/handled a lot, can get sticky/icky just like the rubber coating.
The triglycerides and fatty acids in your sebum (oils/grease your skin produces) soften the acrylic.
This is a common problem with painted doors, furniture, windows, etc.
Epoxy based paint does not have this problem.