So, I really really like the way my Cherry 8100 (really an 8963) feels. The cherry browns are perfect form me, I really like a more delicate activation force switch, and anything louder than this would be far too loud for what *I* like, nevermind disturbing anyone else. I don't have trouble with accidental keypresses because I don't typically "rest" my fingers on the keys when not typing. I *can* use heavier switches, but I tend to slam them so hard that they bottom out loudly on top of any switch feedback (I learned to type on a non-electric typewriter). It's rough on my fingers and hard on everyone's ears. Strangely I don't have that problem as much on switches that don't feel like they need that kind of force to be used.
That's the good news. The bad news is that the board I'm using is not only not NKRO, but I'm having problems with depressing shift and control simultaneously. The control key is about 1/2 the width of the shift key, and I frequently end up with only the control key registering, probably due to hitting the shift key off center when depressing both of them together. (as an aside, the navigation keys islands being transposed up and in a *very* weird configuration is also a real nuisance, even if those are reprogrammable keys)
What I can't tell is if it's a problem that I'll have with other cherry switch boards with similar key dimensions, if it's just that I have a board with a poor left shift key, or what. I don't really want to go back to my SGI sliders over rubber keyboard that I'd been using since my last MS Ergo failed, but at least for gaming it actually worked better. I suppose I could have both connected and swap between them, but that's not at all what I want to do =/
One option probably seems to be to get an ISO foreign layout board. The small shift key shouldn't have the same issues with my pinky hitting it off center due to the angle needed to hit the control key at the same time. But at the same time I really don't think I'm going to be happy with the ISO enter key shape and the change to the pipe/backslash position. Maybe it's something I would grow to like even more if I'd just give it a chance, though? Plus, in the US, they're often cheaper used than ANSI boards are.
Another is to get an older keyboard with a long control key. Which may require modding in a custom controller, which leaves me a little apprehensive. I'm more the type to play with code than with wires, hot solder, and things that go poof when the wrong current goes past them. I'm sure I could in a pinch, I do have exposure to simple circuits and basic soldering, but I don't really have a lot of tools for that type of thing, so troubleshooting would be eek.
As tempting as doing a custom keyboard is, and as much as I'd like to at some point.
Finally there's just buying a retail NKRO board. But I'm not sure if I wouldn't just have the same problem again on something like a filco/ducky or even a topre (that sale is so tempting, but I only budgeted myself for 1/2 of what even a cheap 103 topre would be... of course, most of the retail boards available with cherry browns are above what I originally budgeted too... I mean, I *could* pay for a topre on sale, right now, but it would definitely eat into getting myself things like a new set of cute boots and such, originally I wasn't going to spend more than $100 on keyboards for myself this xmas, and I don't know anyone who has a topre to have a try with).
Is there anything I've missed? Does anyone have any feedback on hitting shift keys off center on any of the major Cherry switch brands, or even on Topres? Any recommendations? Even if it's something outlandish, like "buy two matrix boards, one for each hand." NKRO itself isn't a must, but I sometimes have problems with 2 key rollover boards.
