Model M: single key having problem

[TacticalCoder]

I just received a new (industrial) Model M and one of the key is problematic: the 'c' key.  Everything else works fine.

When I press 'c', very often nothing happens.  Sometimes two keypress happens in a row (I see 'cc' instead of 'c').

I already took the innards of my daily driver but with the controller + full case of the new board and everything works fine so it's obviously not the controller.

What could it be?  And do you think it can be fixed without doing a bolt mod?

I kinda prefer my "new" Industrial with the innards of my old daily driver anyway and it's not as if I was short on Model Ms, but I still wonder what it could be and if it was a common problem or not.

[TacticalCoder]

Zero broken rivets.

Already tried with two different cconnectors: old connector works fine on another board.  New connector and same 'c' key issue.

Tried to reseat a lot of time: interestingly most of the time the key only register when I remove my finger from the key, instead of registering instantly when I hear the "clicck".

Weird...

[TacticalCoder]

Zero broken rivets. Already tried with two different cconnectors: old connector works fine on another board.  New connector and same 'c' key issue.

Damn, I got it wrong: the new connector works fine with an older board.  And if I take the new board and an older connector, then I've got the 'c' issue again.

I would say the problem is "somewhere" between the metal plate and the hammer: membrane, hammer, something.

I already replaced the key stem with another one, tried to re-seat it lots of time and it's always the same thing: either 'c' doesn't register or it registers twice.  Funnily enough when it registers only once it's not even correct because it's typically when I release the key (instead of registering when the "click" happens).

I'll look a bit more into it.

[TacticalCoder]

Sounds to me like you need to reseat or replace the spring.  Search for "ChopstickOdeath" or it's probably linked from All About Keys wiki.

I already did chopstick'o'death once (on another board) and it worked, so I'll try that too...  But re-seating or replacement implies bolt mod right?   If it implies bolt mod, does it need to be a full bolt mod or can I get away with only replacing a few rivets with bolts?

[Ascaii]

The routine for Model Ms is:

- Aquakeytest or whatever all the keys to check all keys and for stuck modifiers
- Reseat the key 10 times to see if that fixes it
- If you still have a problem open up with 5.5mm thinwall socket
- Look for broken rivets, loose connectors, coke spills

Report back.

ripster, I bow to you in gratitude...i spent the past 2 weeks trying to remember what the damn program was called, domo arigato, ripster-san.

[theferenc]

You can replace the springs without a bolt mod. It's the hammers that are inaccessable unless you rip apart all of the rivets, meaning you can technically replace them without a bolt mod, you'll just be left with a pile of parts afterwards that isn't held together by anything.

So yeah, hammer replacement requires bolt mod, unless you're seriously pedantic, and then it's reassembly after hammer replacement that requires the bolt mod.

But if you do bolt mod, you can play all sorts of games with the physical layout of the keyboard. See the international mini mod for details. Some results can be seen in my sig, as well (link to the thread for the international mod).

[J888www]

can I get away with only replacing a few rivets with bolts?

Yes, but you would need to check for the most apt places to use the rivets (check Wiki nut n bolt mod). I found the sound to be more pleasing after a nut n bolt mod, you tend to get less "twang" or a little more "clack", whatever but I guess you'll soon find out.

Ahhh, another staring Cat, there're so many gazing Cats in this forum, lucky this one isn't looking down at me from the ceiling......

[theferenc]

He's been there since I joined. Always acts as my avatar, if I can set it.