Author Topic: My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)  (Read 4559 times)

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Offline N8N

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 14:02:52 »
so as promised... here's the Q&D on my little Saturday morning project...  I had some nice doubleshots on a MY board that I hated, so I figured what better to do with them than to put them on a good keyboard? I bought a Filco off of the classifieds here and told the seller that if it'd save a couple bucks he could keep the keycaps, because I wasn't going to be using them.  The plan is to make this board my take to work board, although after comparing it to my WASD I think that a WASD with browns, clears, or ergo clears might be quieter than a Filco, so that might be a more appropriate plan.  I wanted to use the doubleshots because a) I had them and they were free b) I liked the profile of the Cherry Corp. keycaps better than the Filco etc. ones - the shorter keycap at least to my fingers makes the switches feel less wobbly and c) they really do look cool.  But anyway a Filco does no good unless you can type on it, right?  So I had to mod the keycaps and make them work...

Unfortunately, the board that I was starting with was a G81 space saver style board; there's some keys on that that just won't work.  These ones, to be precise - so if you're starting off from nothing and decide that you want doubleshots on your standard 104-key board, this is a really bad way to go about getting them.  If you have a tenkeyless Filco and a moogle kit, you might think you're good, but the del/end/pgdown keys are a different profile than they would be on the 104-key board; on the space saver they're Row 4 profile while on the 104 they should be Row 3.  The More You Know etc.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24118[/ATTACH]

I knew that ahead of time though but still wanted to use the keys - they were just starting to shine a little but it was all honest wear and imposed by Yours Truly - I actually used this board at work for a while, which is really a good part of what prompted my current keyboard geekery - because it's really a crap board to type on.  I don't like linear switches, and they're very heavy (and this coming from someone who likes clears.)  I'd gone ahead and bought some other boards off eBay that are more suited for this exercise - these are G81-8000s.  I ASSumed that because I had a G80-8200 and all the keycaps would interchange with a standard 104-key board that the G81 board that uses the same case and looks almost identical save for the relegendable caps would be interchangeable as well... not so much!  I was able to use the del/end/pgdown keys, right shift, numpad plus and numpad zero from it without modification, but the entire bottom row needs modification, as does the caps lock.  The caps lock and all of the bottom row keys save the space bar have off center stems; the space bar itself has a big molded-in stabilizer thing that needs to be cut/ground out of there to make it usable on a MX board, even a Cherry one.  You may notice that I have two of the larger boards... one of them has very shiny caps, and the other looks near-new.  Fortunately most of the caps that I needed were in good shape on the very shiny board, but wherever these boards were used must have been somewhere were the numpad was used almost exclusively - the numpad zero on the shiny board is pretty bad so I passed on using that one, and the one on the "almost new" board is still the shiniest key out of the whole set.  But it's not horrible, I don't mind a little honest wabi as long as it's not silly, and doesn't noticeably clash with the rest of the board.

To add insult to the injury of this whole exercise, the Control and Alt keys aren't even doubleshots but pad printed.  But they were the only black keys I had the right size, so I was stuck either buying more crap or making these work.  (I've seen that there apparently are some boards that have those keys in doubleshot - but still not the windows key - but they apparently are rare and/or expensive and/or don't come up for sale that often.  I'll just use what I have until the next moogle kit GB comes around.)

If you want brand new doubleshots with minimum of hassle - just buy these from 99hk.biz

http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?20459-Second-Group-of-Brand-New-Official-Cherry-Double-Shot

you'll still need to mod the space bar to add the center Filco post and also mod the caps lock key to have the post centered, but those should be the *only* mods you should have to do to that set.  Same goes for Das or WASD (so I'm told.  I'm sure about WASD; don't have a Das but I've been told that they switch/key layout is identical.)  Honestly, by the time i bought the two boards off eBay, I probably spent about the same amount of money as just buying the set, and I would have been done with my modding a lot sooner.  But on the flip side, I have lots of spare parts now, and some d'shots that could conceivably be sandblasted if anyone were so inclined.

Now what I *forgot* about was stabilizers... as soon as I got the Filco and realized that the previous owner hadn't included the stabilizers I should have tried the MY ones and realized that they were completely different although kinda-sorta similar looking... but I didn't, not until I'd already glued up the space bar and went to install it.  Fortunately WASD Keyboards in CA sells them as separate parts, and even better, were able to ship a bag of them to me in only two days, so it was barely a holdup in this project.  Props to Weyman for offering little parts like that and also for having such great service.

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I started by making myself a gluing jig for the keys.  How I did this was just to take a reasonably straight scrap of 2x4, and drilled some 1/2" holes in them.  I took some old MY stems and shoved them into some old Cherry keycaps, mostly filled the holes in the 2x4 with epoxy, and waited.  Then I traced the outline of the keys in pen so that I could line the new ones up appropriately.  I also drilled another hole for the space bar, took the space bar from my WASD, and glued in another MY stem for that style space bar.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24117[/ATTACH]

One thing that I found interesting was that it didn't seem to matter what row the keys were on when jigging them up like this.  It makes sense when you think about it, but I didn't realize it until I tried the "Ctrl" key on the stem that I'd glued in place to do the Caps Lock key - but yeah, the PCB is flat, so the stems are all going to be oriented the same and at the same elevation.  Means that you only need as many stems in your jig as you can glue caps at one time - which if you're using 5-minute epoxy, I've found to be about four, unless you work faster than I do.

So we prep the switches for gluing by grinding away all the old stems and taking a very thin amount of material from under the keycap.  I found two bits to be the ones that I used for everything for this project.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24128[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24129[/ATTACH]

Then take an old Cherry keycap and cut the heck out of it.I pushed it all the way down on the stem glued into the board until it bottomed, then took material off the top of it and/or a little more from the underside of the keycap until it fit.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24130[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24131[/ATTACH]

Now it fits!  So once I had a batch ready I just mixed up some epoxy and put a little in the keycap and a little on the stem.

I think I'm out of space for pics on this post so to be continued...
« Last Edit: Sat, 13 August 2011, 15:47:53 by N8N »
Filco Majestouch-2 with Cherry Corp. doubleshot keys - Leopold Tenkeyless Tactile Force with Wyse doubleshots - Silicon Graphics 9500900 - WASD V1 - IBM Model M 52G9658 - Noppoo Choc Pro with Cherry lasered PBT keycaps - Wyse 900866-01 - Cherry G80-8200LPBUS/07 - Dell AT101W - several Cherry G81s (future doubleshot donors) (order of current preference) (dang I have too many keyboards, I really only need two)

Offline N8N

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #1 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 14:16:04 »
Now it fits! So once I had a batch ready I just mixed up some epoxy and put a little in the keycap and a little on the stem.  As you can see, when I tried to glue up more than four keys, by the time I got to the last one, the epoxy was already gummy rather than runny, and the last one really didn't do the whole adhering thing.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24132[/ATTACH]
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24133[/ATTACH]

And that's pretty much it!  If I got overzealous with the epoxy on some of these I had to go back with the Dremel and grind away some epoxy around the stem to allow for full travel of the keys.  Fortunately, the space bar turned out fine, and the rest of these keys are pretty much for cosmetics, as I very rarely use them.  Still and all, if a moogle kit were to drop into my lap, I wouldn't say no to it.

Here's the space bar all glued up:

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24134[/ATTACH]

And here's the whole keyboard in all its doubleshotted glory.

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Close up of bottom row.  It's not perfect, but it's good enough that I'm fairly proud of how it turned out.

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And here is that nice little Filco next to my new WASD keyboard with blue switches.  Don't they make a nice pair?

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 24137[/ATTACH]

That's about it!  So if you're thinking that you can't do something like this, if you have a drill, a dremel, some junk MX keycaps, and the right donor keyboard... you really can.
Filco Majestouch-2 with Cherry Corp. doubleshot keys - Leopold Tenkeyless Tactile Force with Wyse doubleshots - Silicon Graphics 9500900 - WASD V1 - IBM Model M 52G9658 - Noppoo Choc Pro with Cherry lasered PBT keycaps - Wyse 900866-01 - Cherry G80-8200LPBUS/07 - Dell AT101W - several Cherry G81s (future doubleshot donors) (order of current preference) (dang I have too many keyboards, I really only need two)

Offline kaiserreich

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 15:03:45 »
Nice sharing. Like how you explain the step by step on the stem modding.
This should probably belong in the modifications section

Offline N8N

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #3 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 15:09:50 »
Well, Ripster already posted something similar as a wiki... I was conflicted as to whether to post in response to that or just throw up a new thread...  I won't be hurt if iMav decides to move it... or not...
Filco Majestouch-2 with Cherry Corp. doubleshot keys - Leopold Tenkeyless Tactile Force with Wyse doubleshots - Silicon Graphics 9500900 - WASD V1 - IBM Model M 52G9658 - Noppoo Choc Pro with Cherry lasered PBT keycaps - Wyse 900866-01 - Cherry G80-8200LPBUS/07 - Dell AT101W - several Cherry G81s (future doubleshot donors) (order of current preference) (dang I have too many keyboards, I really only need two)

Offline kaiserreich

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 15:50:46 »
I wonder if you could get a Cherry type PBT spacebar, drill the stems away and put topre stems on it to get a PBT spacebar for a Realforce/HHKB. An expensive mod, but should be worth it to get rid of those shiny spacebars

Offline N8N

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 15:57:37 »
don't go too nuts, the space bar from the space saver board got shiny after only a couple months of daily use.  Granted, I apparently have evil body chemistry - I have to carry an oily rag around with me to wipe down everything that I touch in a machine chop, and you should have seen the steering wheel of my last company car when I turned it in.  (the new one, I popped for a leather cover, so I didn't have to hold onto bare foam while driving.)

I figure it's good honest wear so I don't worry about it too much.

Now that said, I don't know what the stem socket bits look like on a Topre, but theoretically there's nothing stopping you, you'd just need however many junk Topre keys to cut up to make it happen.
Filco Majestouch-2 with Cherry Corp. doubleshot keys - Leopold Tenkeyless Tactile Force with Wyse doubleshots - Silicon Graphics 9500900 - WASD V1 - IBM Model M 52G9658 - Noppoo Choc Pro with Cherry lasered PBT keycaps - Wyse 900866-01 - Cherry G80-8200LPBUS/07 - Dell AT101W - several Cherry G81s (future doubleshot donors) (order of current preference) (dang I have too many keyboards, I really only need two)

Offline F u r u y á

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #6 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 17:34:30 »
what's an "anti-otaku" key?
Filco 91 | Filco 87* | Filco 105 | PLU 87 | PLU 87 | Cherry 120 | Cherry 120
*

Offline N8N

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #7 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 18:22:44 »
shamelessly stolen from here

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6924

I'm assuming that comes from blank keycaps being known as "otaku" and white on black doubleshots being about as far from blank as you can possibly get :)
Filco Majestouch-2 with Cherry Corp. doubleshot keys - Leopold Tenkeyless Tactile Force with Wyse doubleshots - Silicon Graphics 9500900 - WASD V1 - IBM Model M 52G9658 - Noppoo Choc Pro with Cherry lasered PBT keycaps - Wyse 900866-01 - Cherry G80-8200LPBUS/07 - Dell AT101W - several Cherry G81s (future doubleshot donors) (order of current preference) (dang I have too many keyboards, I really only need two)

Offline F u r u y á

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My own anti-otaku Filco (w/ modem-burning pics)
« Reply #8 on: Sat, 13 August 2011, 20:56:38 »
Quote from: N8N;398417
shamelessly stolen from here

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6924

I'm assuming that comes from blank keycaps being known as "otaku" and white on black doubleshots being about as far from blank as you can possibly get :)

Thx. Very geeky terminology.
Filco 91 | Filco 87* | Filco 105 | PLU 87 | PLU 87 | Cherry 120 | Cherry 120
*