Author Topic: keyboards using Cherry plate-mounted stabilizers (Read 8630 times)

litster · « **on:** Tue, 03 January 2012, 17:08:16 »

Besides Leopolds, which other commerical keyboards use Cherry's plate-mounted stabilizers? I think at least some Ducky keyboards use Cherry plate-mounted stabilizers. Anything else? Any old keyboards?

keyboardlover · « **Reply #1 on:** Tue, 03 January 2012, 17:14:33 »

Are they even made by cherry? Sixty doesn't think so, and he's a cherry expert...

litster · « **Reply #2 on:** Tue, 03 January 2012, 17:23:25 »

From Sixty's Leopold review here on GeekHack: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?13258-Elitekeyboards-Replacement-for-the-Filco-Tenkeyless-The-Leopold-FC200R

From a thread comparing Filco and Ducky http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?12284-Ducky-9008-comparison-against-Filco-Majestouch

IvanIvanovich · « **Reply #3 on:** Tue, 03 January 2012, 17:59:31 »

Wyse used them. The goldtouch / Kinesis keypad use them if that counts. Those are the only others I have experience with.

litster · « **Reply #4 on:** Tue, 03 January 2012, 18:10:09 »

Thank you! Thank you! I have old Wyse keyboards at home, but they use PCB mounted Cherry stabilizers. I do have 5 Goldtouch numpads. I didn't remember they use Cherry plate mounted Cherry stabilizers!! I actually have them at home ready to be cannibalized! Thanks very much for the reminder!

guilleguillaume · « **Reply #5 on:** Tue, 03 January 2012, 18:15:47 »

Steelseries Keyboards use these type of stabilizers too but the Enter use some kind of rare hole and the keycap has a large tube that fit inside.

Hamblet · « **Reply #6 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 06:50:41 »

Datacomp.

If you figured out boards original maker like this, you could know that kind of STBL with easy.
Of course this tip does not gaurantee 100%, because they are big and old company.
Sooo many goods are from there.

Following boards have STBL you are looking for..
Filco wirless keyboards,
Filco wirless/wired keypads (Not sure 19s, but pretty sure 22s)
Some *ucking Lie-fold series (FC 200RT/300R/700RT)
(except. Phaethon FC100 of Strongman, Phaethon FC200R/LieFold FC200R of Costar)
and, Yes, Wyse, Steels series.
Etc..

and one more funny thing.
All keycaps of above boards are some kind loose.
It is sooo easily dismantled (such as tip/tap action).

Architect · « **Reply #7 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 09:58:42 »

The new Truly Ergonomic

alaricljs · « **Reply #8 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 10:10:32 »

I have Cherry plate mount stabilizers bought from Mouser. If Mouser is lying about the Manuf, I'd be amazed. The stabilizers pictured in this thread DO NOT look like what I have, however.

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 38262[/ATTACH]

litster · « **Reply #9 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 11:34:25 »

I ordered Cherry stabilizers G99-0224 from newark.com and onlinecomponents.com. Both sent me incomplete parts. newark.com sent me just the plastic part that you clip onto the plate, they didn't include the part that is inserted into the keycap. Neither company sent me metal bars. I complained and they both refunded my money.

Looks like Mouser is more reliable. You got all the pieces.

alaricljs · « **Reply #10 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 15:36:40 »

I can't see it through all the water mark and red scribbles on the 2nd pic, but the first pic in Litster's post has plastic laying on top of the plate on the long sides of the stabilizer. The one I posted only has plastic to hold against the plate top at the short ends.

In Litster's pic there is a rectangular chunk of plastic on the 'left' side of the stabilizer right on top of the plate. The part in my pic has a chunk of plastic in the same location, but it sits flush against the bottom of the plate when mounted.

iBro · « **Reply #11 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 21:00:45 »

I'm pretty sure the Poker used cherry stabilizers

DaemonRaccoon · « **Reply #12 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 21:44:23 »

Quote from: iBro;496507

I'm pretty sure the Poker used cherry stabilizers

Those are PCB mounted though.

Hamblet · « **Reply #13 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 22:56:07 »

Speaking of Metal bars, you could use entoutcas or umbrellas whatsoever. Or just visit hardware store around you.

Dimensions are here:
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/key/mx.htm

Recommended diameter is, in general, 1.6mm.

Good luck !!

pic (thanks RRA of KBDMania)
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 38310[/ATTACH]

litster · « **Reply #14 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 23:17:58 »

I can bend both Cherry and Costar stabilizer bars now. Here is a picture of the costar 7x stabilizers I made. I don't think you can find 7x costar stabilizer bars anywhere else :-)

Cherry stabilzer bars are easier to bend then Costar stabilizer bars.

Hamblet · « **Reply #15 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 23:29:20 »

Super !!!!

Hamblet · « **Reply #16 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 23:34:51 »

You used some tools to make your own holes for Costar STBL. Nice.
I prefer to have Costar STBL than Cherry. It gives you more freedom.
Thanks nice pic.

Hamblet · « **Reply #17 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 23:39:56 »

I do not have any pic right now. But, I saw one variation of it (Costar metal bar).
It has a little bit different protrusion. If I found it, I will tell you.

litster · « **Reply #18 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 23:42:15 »

Quote from: Hamblet;496579

You used some tools to make your own holes for Costar STBL. Nice.
I prefer to have Costar STBL than Cherry. It gives you more freedom.
Thanks nice pic.

You are welcome, Hamblet.
While investigating stabilizers for our Phantom project, I found out we could only buy 7x stabilizers from Cherry. with Costar stabilizers we can only buy clips (install onto mounting plate), inserts (insert into cherry keycaps), and 2x stabilizer bars, all from WASDkeyboards.com. But we can't find any 7x stabilizer bars for Costar.

alaricljs told me about the music wire bending tool he used to bend Cherry stabilizers (Dubro Wire EZ bender 480 or 481), and where I can find the correct size wires (3/64 inch) for costar (hobby shops for RC airplanes). The rest I had to figure out myself. The hardest part is the 2 Z-bends in the middle. There is some very slight angle change. Between the hump and the 2 90-degree bends on each end is *not* 90 degrees. :-)

litster · « **Reply #19 on:** Sun, 22 January 2012, 23:45:10 »

Quote from: Hamblet;496582

I do not have any pic right now. But, I saw one variation of it (Costar metal bar).
It has a little bit different protrusion. If I found it, I will tell you.

Sounds good! Thanks.

Hamblet · « **Reply #20 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 07:33:12 »

1st : Size 5.5 Height_NA Angle_NA
2nd : Size 2/2.25/2.75 Height_Little_bit Angle_90_Degree
3rd : Size Ditto Height_Little_bit_more Angle_You_know_that

[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ] 38316[/ATTACH]

1st one has little bit of tension by itself when you assembled (you may know it well from its apperance).

alaricljs · « **Reply #21 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 07:39:02 »

The further away from the switch the central 'bump' is in the stabilizer bar the more compatible with rotated switches and LED installed switches the bar can be.

Hamblet · « **Reply #22 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 07:48:16 »

Quote from: alaricljs;496713

The further away from the switch the central 'bump' is in the stabilizer bar the more compatible with rotated switches and LED installed switches the bar can be.

I have no practical experience of mine though. I guess it depends.

Hamblet · « **Reply #23 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 07:50:04 »

I am posting this pic just for ref. That is it.

Thanks good info.

Hamblet · « **Reply #24 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 07:57:30 »

Quote from: alaricljs;496713

The further away from the switch the central 'bump' is in the stabilizer bar the more compatible with rotated switches and LED installed switches the bar can be.

Nop.
I just checked 1st one.
It has no interference with switch lower housing at all. Whether switches have rotated or not, it does not matter.

Hamblet · « **Reply #25 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 08:05:24 »

Nop (Again).
For 2nd and 3rd metal bars, you must rotate switches. Whether you have more 'bumps' or not, it does not matter. It has interference with LEDs (Unless you have very lower LEDs).

Hamblet · « **Reply #26 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 08:16:51 »

Do you want to be another GasbagGuru ? We already got plenty of them. I think thats enough.

alaricljs · « **Reply #27 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 08:34:22 »

So you refute what I say, and go straight to insults? What I said is true, that you interpreted it incorrectly is another matter entirely. If you wish clarification you can ask.

I am referring to the angle which that 'bump' leans away from the keyswitch. It's also related to the depth of the bump. If the bump doesn't lean out far enough or isn't sufficiently deep it can collide with the switch housing, if there is an LED mounted (and depending on it's size) it can collide there as well.

Here's a nice thread with pictures.

Hamblet · « **Reply #28 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 08:42:59 »

I am not refuting with GasbagGurus.
I always insult them. Because they are telling a lie.

Of course, there are thousands of possibilities for you. So.. Show me your evidence. If I was wrong, I will apologize millions of times again and again to you.

I gave you all hard evidences of mine and you can prove with it. Where is yours ?

Hamblet · « **Reply #29 on:** Mon, 23 January 2012, 08:53:04 »

You do not have any of your own experience.

Congrats, here comes new GASBAG_GURU !!!

In your EDITed link, I can see my points only. You do not have any kind of your evidence at all.

No more time to waste.
Bye..

News:

Author Topic: keyboards using Cherry plate-mounted stabilizers (Read 8630 times)