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Author Topic: Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards  (Read 5252 times)

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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« on: Sun, 22 January 2012, 21:43:24 »
So I'm looking at buying my first mechanical keyboard. The ideal keyboard would:
  • Be very quiet
  • Be Good for lots of typing and some gaming
  • Be $120 CAD Maximum shipped
  • Be a pleasure to type and game on (~ 75% typing, and 25% gaming)
  • Not tire my fingers during typing or gaming
  • Have something to let my fingers know when the key has actuated (so I'm not bottoming out while typing)
  • Have the smooth feel of linear switches
  • Not be backlit
  • Not be 10-Keyless
  • Have labelled, uniform keycaps (i.e. no funky coloured WASD cluster, modifiers, or escape key, and no blank keycaps)

Other notes:
By "very quiet", I mean along the lines of my current keyboard (Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000). I could get used to the noise of brown switches; I might end up modding the mechanical keyboard I end up buying to make it quieter.
My current keyboard has an actuation and peak force of 60 g (measured with a pile of nickels). This and a Seanix keyboard at school are what I'm used to typing on.
I figure that I'll probably be bottoming the keys out while gaming.
I would prefer not to bottom out while typing.

I tried the Razer Black Widow for about a minute, and could barely feel the tactile bump. It might be enough for typing, though. I don't know because I only tried the four arrow keys through the front of the box.

I've also tried the Thermaltake Meka G1 (the entire keyboard this time) for a couple of minutes. I liked the smooth feel of the linear switches, and I felt like my fingers knew where to stop based on the pressure of the key. I was thinking about buying this, but figured it would tire out my fingers while holding the keys down during gaming sessions.

I was considering a Corsair K60 (red switches) so that my fingers wouldn't tire during gaming sessions, and because I like the feel of typing on linear switches. My concern with this was that my fingers wouldn't know when the key has actuated because there is no sort of indication.

The final keyboard I was considering was the Das Keyboard Model S Silent Professional (brown switches), with a tactile bump so that my fingers would know when a key has actuated, and I highly doubt that these switches would tire my fingers. As stated above, I'm not sure if the tactile bump (which is less than that of the blues I tried) would be enough that I could feel it, and I do like the feel of linear switches.

I thought about the Razer Black Widow Stealth as well, but I doubt that would be as high quality as, say, a Das Keyboard. I don't need the gaming features anyway.

I might buy one of the following keyboards if it ends up being cheaper than the above: Leopold Full-Size keyboards, Rosewill RK-9000 series, or an OCN branded Ducky keyboard from Tank Guys.

Based on the information above, what switch and/or keyboard would you recommend for my usage pattern, and why?
« Last Edit: Mon, 23 January 2012, 12:01:32 by GNURush »
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Offline jellowiggler

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #1 on: Sun, 22 January 2012, 21:53:26 »
Out of those I'd take the DAS brown switch model. Then the Thermal Take G1 (my hands found there is too much resistance in the black switches though. Make sure you are comfortable typing on them for an extended period)
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Offline lightsout714

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #2 on: Sun, 22 January 2012, 22:09:19 »
Typing on a board with cherry switches is not going to be silent. To quiet any switch down you will want o rings or landing pads.
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Offline hazeluff

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #3 on: Sun, 22 January 2012, 22:38:42 »
I think you reached a good conclusion. Browns will probably be what you like.

But like lightsout said, it won't be very quiet. Get some O-rings to reduce the sound of bottoming out.

I'm not sure what board to suggest tho (theres just so many), but with your budget it won't be too hard to find a board. Like many on this forum, there are people who will suggest the WASDkeyboards, since you can customize the keys.
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Offline Tony

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #4 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 01:08:04 »
I think you will be happy with DAS browns. The subtle bump of browns will be fine for typing texts and light enough for gaming.
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Offline Ciardhubh

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #5 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 09:53:02 »
Quote from: Tony;496627
I think you will be happy with DAS browns. The subtle bump of browns will be fine for typing texts and light enough for gaming.


Seconded. I use a board with browns; mostly for typing and a bit of gaming. They are nice for both.

If you've already tried other cherry switches, you might want to take a look at force diagrams in the wiki to get an idea how they'd feel in comparison: http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Cherry+Corporation+Switch+Wiki. I was pleasantly surprised how light browns felt after replacing my old membrane board. As for the brown's tactile bump, it's there but it's not as noticeable while typing as I expected it to be.

If you get a Cherry switch and want it to be really silent, you'll probably want to get o-rings too, to dampen the noise from bottoming-out keys.
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #6 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 10:35:44 »
Wow, thanks for all the quick replies!

Looks like I'll be going with brown switches.

Where could I buy some O-rings to use on a keyboard, and how much can I expect to pay for them? Could I buy my own for less than the $20 that WASD charges? If so, I don't think I'd go with WASD, but they offer Dvorak layout at no extra cost, which will help offset the extra cost of O-rings from them. To me that's a $10 value, at least.

I'm off to camp this afternoon, and won't be returning until Wednesday afternoon, so I won't be checking this thread again until then.
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Offline lightsout714

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #7 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 10:38:53 »
I got a set of 50A o rings like WASD has on amazon for 9 bucks shipped.
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Offline keyboardnoob

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #8 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 10:47:03 »
Since you're in Canada, you might want to consider getting : http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=16950ID2017&vpn=SGK-4000-GKCL1-US&manufacture=Others.

I use brown for both gaming and typing and they're perfect, I'd also consider getting o rings if you think they make too much noise. The Das is a good choice, I just don't like the glossy finish.

Otherwise you can also check the classified section of the website.
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #9 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 12:02:46 »
It seems I missed a word while editing OP. I meant not 10-keyless. I've fixed this.
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #10 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 12:31:39 »
Quote from: keyboardnoob;496800
Since you're in Canada, you might want to consider getting : http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=16950ID2017&vpn=SGK-4000-GKCL1-US&manufacture=Others.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention. A WASD Keyboard comes in at closer to $170 shipped, which is much more than I would like to pay.

I guess it's then a toss-up between this: http://www.tankguys.com/ducky-keyboard-mx-overclock-net-edition-brown-abs-1.htm and this: http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=26450ID4394&vpn=DASK3PROMS1SI%20(8%2055800%2000118%200)&manufacture=METADOT I think I'll probably end up going with Das for the extra $1.48, cool as it would be to have an OCN keyboard.

I'll shop around for O-rings when I get back. Could I get suitable ones from my local hardware store?
« Last Edit: Mon, 23 January 2012, 12:36:01 by GNURush »
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Offline alaricljs

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #11 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 12:39:51 »
Quote from: GNURush;496874
Thanks for bringing this to my attention. A WASD Keyboard comes in at closer to $170 shipped, which is much more than I would like to pay.


Sounds like a WASD custom, the semi-custom is down at $120+ship... still not at your price tho.

Also give yourself some time to think about the shiny Das and the number of complaints about it getting scratched up or finger-printy.
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #12 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 12:45:08 »
Quote from: alaricljs;496881
Sounds like a WASD custom, the semi-custom is down at $120+ship... still not at your price tho.

Also give yourself some time to think about the shiny Das and the number of complaints about it getting scratched up or finger-printy.

That was a WASD semi-custom with o-rings, and $30 shipping to Canada.

I don't think the fingerprints would bother me so much, but they might drive my mom crazy. I'll think about it.
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Offline Ciardhubh

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #13 on: Mon, 23 January 2012, 13:13:10 »
Quote from: GNURush;496794
Where could I buy some O-rings to use on a keyboard, and how much can I expect to pay for them?


This guy offers 50A rings for 4$ shipped (bought some myself): http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?25806-Cheapass-50A-O-rings-for-sale-3-for-a-pack-of-120-rings-ROUND-2

Alternatively you could monitor this thread (large variety but orders are currently closed) to see if he does a second round in the future: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?25714-O-Rings-of-various-thickness-and-softness-Group-Buy
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #14 on: Wed, 25 January 2012, 20:19:57 »
By the sound of it, I think I'd like 40A O-rings better, but they seem to be harder to find than 50A. Is it worth the difference of $17? How much of a difference does it really make?
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Offline M9Prime

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #15 on: Wed, 25 January 2012, 21:48:52 »
hey man, theres a  few people that dont know about Directcanada.com You can get keyboards pretty cheap there, And free shipping i got my meka g1 in 2 days paid 80$
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Offline Barn

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #16 on: Wed, 25 January 2012, 21:53:26 »
WASD will make you a board with Browns and O-Rings.
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Offline Barn

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #17 on: Wed, 25 January 2012, 21:57:40 »
M9Prime username based on the Leica M9? If so, nice choice!
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #18 on: Thu, 26 January 2012, 08:48:56 »
Quote from: M9Prime;499225
hey man, theres a  few people that dont know about Directcanada.com You can get keyboards pretty cheap there, And free shipping i got my meka g1 in 2 days paid 80$


That's actually where I'm looking at buying a Das from, once I've saved up. $115 with free ground shipping.

Quote from: Barn;499229
WASD will make you a board with Browns and O-Rings.


I've looked at this already, and adding O-rings and shipping jacks the price of a semi-custom up to about $175, which is well over my budget.
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #19 on: Sat, 28 January 2012, 11:46:46 »
Quote from: GNURush;499157
By the sound of it, I think I'd like 40A O-rings better, but they seem to be harder to find than 50A. Is it worth the difference of $17? How much of a difference does it really make?


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fossala

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #20 on: Sat, 28 January 2012, 13:16:08 »
I have tried (and have) both. I don't rate the 50a ones at all but the 40a ones make all the difference. This is on a cherry black pcb mounted board.
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Offline lightsout714

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #21 on: Sat, 28 January 2012, 13:36:35 »
Quote from: fossala;501644
I have tried (and have) both. I don't rate the 50a ones at all but the 40a ones make all the difference. This is on a cherry black pcb mounted board.

Can you tell me the big difference between 50 and 40. I have 50's on a board with reds. (cmstorm). Am I missing out not having 40's instead?
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #22 on: Sat, 28 January 2012, 15:23:57 »
From what I've read, 50A is firmer, and 40A is softer. Therefore 40A reduces noise more and feels squishier (or mushier, depending on who you ask) when one bottoms out.
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fossala

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #23 on: Sat, 28 January 2012, 15:28:59 »
I may be being stupid but I could only just tell the difference between 50a and non, with 40a they are dampening out much more sound and impact without it feeling mushy.
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Offline lightsout714

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #24 on: Sat, 28 January 2012, 15:29:29 »
Quote from: GNURush;501764
From what I've read, 50A is firmer, and 40A is softer. Therefore 40A reduces noise more and feels squishier (or mushier, depending on who you ask) when one bottoms out.

I've heard this too just wanted to hear it from someone who had used both. But if squishier is what it is then I don't think its for me.


EDIT* Just saw the post above me. Thanks maybe I should try them. I agree that 50A does not make a ton of difference. But the 40A are a little overpriced imo.
« Last Edit: Sat, 28 January 2012, 15:32:01 by lightsout714 »
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fossala

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #25 on: Sat, 28 January 2012, 15:31:50 »
They don't feel mushy, just not jarring.
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Offline GNURush

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Getting Into Mechanical Keyboards
« Reply #26 on: Mon, 30 January 2012, 08:54:58 »
Sounds like the 40As are worth it, then. I guess I'll be buying some of those along with my Das Silent once I have the money.

I found this thread yesterday: http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?23914-Cherry-Switch-Tester-Holiday-Tour-2011!&highlight=cherry+tester. I thought it was a cool idea, but I'm much too anxious to buy a keyboard to wait for the tester.
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