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Author Topic: Broken ENTER key  (Read 1651 times)

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Offline samsara

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  • Posts: 22
Broken ENTER key
« on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 07:18:07 »
Hello,

My enter key doesn't work properly, and I have no money for a new mech keyboard. If i take off the keycap I can see that the switch is loose on the left side. If I then press the switch against the metal plate, and then push the switch, it works properly, so it looks like a loose connection.
Do you think that some soldering fix the problem.
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Offline pyro

  • Posts: 177
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #1 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 08:02:22 »
Yes. Reads like they forgot to solder one of the connections (which is easy to fix).
« Last Edit: Mon, 06 February 2012, 08:05:11 by pyro »
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Offline samsara

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  • Posts: 22
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #2 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 08:12:36 »
Do you know what soldering equipment I need to buy?
I've heard that some of them gets too hot for electronic?

Do you think that this will work http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103479716

Regards
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Offline byFd

  • Posts: 221
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #3 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 08:46:24 »
what kind of keyboard?
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White Filco Majestouch 2 Tenkeyless MX Browns
White Noppoo Choc Mini MX Reds
KBC Poker X MX Reds

Offline samsara

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  • Posts: 22
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #4 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 10:12:48 »
It's a QPAD Mk-80 with brown switches.
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Offline byFd

  • Posts: 221
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #5 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 10:25:11 »
is the switch loose from plate or pcb?
i'm not into soldering and stuff but i think a picture would be helpful so people who have more knowledge can give you better advice, so you get your board to work again :)
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White Filco Majestouch 2 Tenkeyless MX Browns
White Noppoo Choc Mini MX Reds
KBC Poker X MX Reds

Offline laffindude

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Broken ENTER key
« Reply #6 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 11:23:22 »
There is so much wrong with those soldering.
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Offline sordna

  • Posts: 2248
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #7 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 12:18:56 »
That 12W soldering iron you posted should be fine. I would say any basic iron between 12 - 25W can be used to safely solder a keyboard switch. It's a very quick and easy fix.
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Kinesis Contoured Advantage & Advantage2 LF with Cherry MX Red switches / Extra keys mod / O-ring dampening mod / Dvorak layout. ErgoDox with buzzer and LED mod.
Also: Kinesis Advantage Classic, Kinesis Advantage2, Data911 TG3, Fingerworks Touchstream LP, IBM SSK (Buckling spring), Goldtouch GTU-0077 keyboard

Offline REVENGE

  • Posts: 568
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #8 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 12:55:16 »
Wouldn't that power level be a little low for leadless solders though?
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Offline sordna

  • Posts: 2248
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #9 on: Mon, 06 February 2012, 13:14:15 »
12W ? For desoldering maybe, for adding a little regular solder to it should be ok. Yeah 25W would probably be better.
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Kinesis Contoured Advantage & Advantage2 LF with Cherry MX Red switches / Extra keys mod / O-ring dampening mod / Dvorak layout. ErgoDox with buzzer and LED mod.
Also: Kinesis Advantage Classic, Kinesis Advantage2, Data911 TG3, Fingerworks Touchstream LP, IBM SSK (Buckling spring), Goldtouch GTU-0077 keyboard

Offline samsara

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  • Posts: 22
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #10 on: Tue, 07 February 2012, 01:24:05 »
Quote from: byFd;507310
is the switch loose from plate or pcb?
i'm not into soldering and stuff but i think a picture would be helpful so people who have more knowledge can give you better advice, so you get your board to work again :)


It looks like it's loose from the plate. By looking at the PCB, there doesn't seem to be a problem.
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Offline sordna

  • Posts: 2248
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 07 February 2012, 01:35:26 »
Could be a broken lead on the switch. If applying more solder doesn't work, you should probably replace the entire switch. wasdkeyboards.com sells loose switches under Products->keyboard parts, and ships fast, I've bought switches there a couple of times.  Better buy a couple of spares too.
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Kinesis Contoured Advantage & Advantage2 LF with Cherry MX Red switches / Extra keys mod / O-ring dampening mod / Dvorak layout. ErgoDox with buzzer and LED mod.
Also: Kinesis Advantage Classic, Kinesis Advantage2, Data911 TG3, Fingerworks Touchstream LP, IBM SSK (Buckling spring), Goldtouch GTU-0077 keyboard

Offline samsara

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 22
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #12 on: Wed, 08 February 2012, 09:07:36 »
Nice site, and even they ship to Denmark :) Thanks for posting.
I'm just a bit unsure about the part number MX1A-G1NN, since I got a LED on my switches.

I found this thread about the part numbers:
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Cherry+Corporation+Switch+Wiki

I don't know if the second last letter have to be a N or a D.

e = LED Diode
    N: No LED, No diode
    R: Red LED, no diode
    G: Green LED, no diode
    Y: Yellow LED, with diode
    D: No LED, with diode
    J: with jumper wire, no LED, no diode
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Offline sordna

  • Posts: 2248
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #13 on: Wed, 08 February 2012, 10:36:59 »
wasdkeyboards only sells plain switches (no led, no diode) but you could take the LED from the bad switch, or a get a LED elsewhere, or just leave the Enter switch without a LED. Same goes for diodes, if your keyboard uses switches with diodes, you can use a plain switch and get a 1N4148 diode (they cost 1-2 cents and you can probably find them in any electronic parts store).
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Kinesis Contoured Advantage & Advantage2 LF with Cherry MX Red switches / Extra keys mod / O-ring dampening mod / Dvorak layout. ErgoDox with buzzer and LED mod.
Also: Kinesis Advantage Classic, Kinesis Advantage2, Data911 TG3, Fingerworks Touchstream LP, IBM SSK (Buckling spring), Goldtouch GTU-0077 keyboard

Offline samsara

  • Thread Starter
  • Posts: 22
Broken ENTER key
« Reply #14 on: Wed, 08 February 2012, 18:17:56 »
Okay, thanks for the info :)
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