Author Topic: Worth Taking Home? (Now with photos) (Read 2934 times)

Itxi · « **on:** Tue, 27 March 2012, 07:08:47 »

Firstly, hello everyone! New member here

Secondly, I mentioned in passing to my boss recently an interest in getting an old IBM model M keyboard. He then told me that the company have a load of old legacy keyboards in the basement, and that I was free to have a look and take one home if they were any good.

I didn't find any IBM keyboards, however I did find a viglen dfk102ukaa04. Now google gives me little to no information on this, but from looking at http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?6144-Any-info-about-this-Viglen and the wiki entry on alp switches as well as taking off one of the key covers I know it has white ALP switches (or white alp lookalikes, pretty sure they're mechanical though and not over a membrane) They don't have much resistance but make a nice little click sound when they're used and seem very solid. They look somewhat like this (rear of the key cover looks the same as well) http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=23659&d=1312904982

They keyboard itself isn't very heavy, it's not light but it's not the kind of weight I'd expect if there was a metal backplate on it. The top of the keyboard (above the function keys) extends by a good few inches if that helps with identification. It also has grills for a speaker at the back but there isn't one in place and doesn't look like one was removed.

No pictures I'm afraid, my lunch break is technically over so I can't get back to the basement to check again until the day is over. I know it has a DIN connector, would this be possible to upgrade to USB? More importantly, would it be worth upgrading this to USB?

I'm quite new to mechanical keyboards so any general advice on ALP switches, viglen keyboards and restoration is welcome.

Cheers for reading

IvanIvanovich · « **Reply #1 on:** Tue, 27 March 2012, 11:23:08 »

Some cheaper Alps had a plastic 'plate' I think, so those would not be so heavy. It's possible to make it to usb with an active adapter. If you like the way it feels, then sure it's worth taking home.

Itxi · « **Reply #2 on:** Tue, 27 March 2012, 17:30:42 »

Thank you for the reply. I'll pick it up tomorrow and see what it's like inside. May make a thread for the project.

Zamorph · « **Reply #3 on:** Tue, 27 March 2012, 17:32:37 »

If your boss is letting you take it, yeah go for it! You definitely can make it usb, there is a thread some where, where someone did it. I don't think it is with that board tho, but still.

Itxi · « **Reply #4 on:** Wed, 28 March 2012, 07:17:18 »

What's that? You all want bad-quality phone photos? Well have I got a treat for you!

Here's a photo of one of the switches, not sure if it shows up but it says 'ALPS' underneath (that's that confirmed then

) and '25g' in the top right.

The overall keyboard view:

Itxi · « **Reply #5 on:** Wed, 28 March 2012, 07:18:35 »

Cont. because geekhack doesn't like me enough yet

Serial No. etc:

Back of keycap:

I'm curious as to how these specs compare with some of the more well known mechanical keyboards?

EDIT: Quick question on something I just found, there is a switch on the rear of the board which can be set to 286 or 88. Any idea what this is?

IvanIvanovich · « **Reply #6 on:** Wed, 28 March 2012, 10:25:40 »

Switch change between XT and AT signaling.

Itxi · « **Reply #7 on:** Wed, 28 March 2012, 13:40:14 »

Ah, thank you very much

Which setting would I need for a modern computer? I was thinking of either cutting the switch out or putting a jumper cable between the connections if it only needs to be fixed at one setting.

EDIT: Okay a bit of research seems to indicate that it's a bit of a more modern enhanced keyboard rather than AT since it has two alt and ctrl keys. So I guess I set it to 286?

IvanIvanovich · « **Reply #8 on:** Wed, 28 March 2012, 13:54:07 »

Yes, 286 setting for AT, other is (80)88 for XT.

Itxi · « **Reply #9 on:** Wed, 28 March 2012, 14:35:06 »

Cheers, you've been a big help

I've taken it apart already and removed all the caps. It does have a metal backplate, I just need to make some retr0rite and clean the actual part with the switches on somehow.

Itxi · « **Reply #10 on:** Thu, 29 March 2012, 03:58:01 »

So it's par for the course then? Well a standard keyboard from when they made them properly is better than a standard keyboard now I guess

Daniel Beardsmore · « **Reply #11 on:** Fri, 30 March 2012, 17:49:22 »

You lucky son of a *****. Complicated clicky ALPS in British Model M layout, every key exactly where it belongs, even a recessed caps lock key. Nice looking board.

Viglen branded the grindiest floppy drive I ever had. Great sound, although not on part with the melodious grind of the Amiga 500 floppy drive.

Itxi · « **Reply #12 on:** Sat, 31 March 2012, 03:02:50 »

Quote from: Daniel Beardsmore;561927

You lucky son of a *****. Complicated clicky ALPS in British Model M layout, every key exactly where it belongs, even a recessed caps lock key. Nice looking board.

Viglen branded the grindiest floppy drive I ever had. Great sound, although not on part with the melodious grind of the Amiga 500 floppy drive.

Hehe, I do love my job. I'll keep a look out for any viglen floppy drives as well, they could be good for making some floppy music.

What do people think about colour choices? I was planning on dyeing the body of the board black and cleaning the keys with retr0bright to make them a nice white, but I'm not too sure what to do about the grey caps :/

Daniel Beardsmore · « **Reply #13 on:** Sat, 31 March 2012, 08:19:11 »

Personally I would leave it exactly the way it is, give or a take a replacement esc key and maybe a clean.

Besides, if you get it wrong, you can't pull out a spare

Itxi · « **Reply #14 on:** Mon, 02 April 2012, 03:03:18 »

It's true that I wont find a spare anywhere, but I'm not very keen on white peripherals. Plus if I dye it it wont go yellow from age again.

I'll give it a clean and see what it looks like though.

News:

Author Topic: Worth Taking Home? (Now with photos) (Read 2934 times)