Return a Unicomp - what cheery switch color should I get and what brand

[Crake]

I just got my first mechanical keyboard, a Unicomp Ultra Classic. I like it but it had issues:  back left leg wobbles causing keyboard to rock, several bottom row keys scrap the keys above them, and bottom right of upper case has lots of flex and it creaks from light pressure- touching it and there were three stress marks where it seemed the plastic was fatigued from the flex.

From messages on this forum, it seems these might be routine problems with Unicomp keyboards - is that really the case?

I bought the Unicomp thinking it would last longer than Cherry switch keyboards but after seeing these flaws I think that might not be the case. So, I plan to return it and get Cherry switch keyboard.

A few questions please:

1) If I liked the feel of the Unicomp, which color switch should I get - would blue be too light if I liked the Unicomp (Unicomp was a little heavy but I liked it) or is blue close to the bucklings springs in feel?
2) Are Cherry switched keyboards reliable?  I read that sometimes there is a problem of 2 or more characters from one key press - does that happen often or is it a rare fluke?
3) Do the switches age fast or if the keyboard is good at first, the switches will likely have no problems for 3-5 years or more?
4) What is the current best quality brand?

[rknize]

1a) Get an IBM Model M from clickykeyboards.com.  :bolt:

1b) Cherry switches are just different.  Trying to fine one that feels like a buckling spring is somewhat fruitless.  That said, the closet thing IMO in terms of *feel* is the so-called "ergo-clear".  In terms of sound, yeah the blue ones click and are somewhat tactile.  I'm sure that other opinions will vary.  

2) The switches are generally very reliable.  If quality is of importance, get a quality board.  That is where there is a lot of variance in overall quality.

3) Too many variables.  Generally they seem to be quite reliable.

4) Religious topic.  My 2 cents: most of the plate-mounted boards are good.  The Costar-manufactured ones especially.  Filco is the GH favorite.  WASD, CM Storm, Rosewill, etc come to mind.

[sth]

1a) Get an IBM Model M from clickykeyboards.com.  

You mean, get a Model M from damn near anywhere else at a fraction of the cost?

[rknize]

You mean, get a Model M from damn near anywhere else at a fraction of the cost?

That is always an option.  I have bought a lot of keyboards from "anywhere else'.  He may or may not get one in good working condition.  Broken rivets, balky springs, etc are common.  From his OP and his previous post in Unicomp, I got the feeling he wanted something that would "just work".

[Crake]

4) Religious topic.  My 2 cents: most of the plate-mounted boards are good.  The Costar-manufactured ones especially.  Filco is the GH favorite.  WASD, CM Storm, Rosewill, etc come to mind.

CoolerMaster is good build?  Is it Costar-manufactured?    They are coming out with a new full 104 keyboard.  And it has a 2 year warranty I think.

[Exort]

CoolerMaster is good build?  Is it Costar-manufactured?    They are coming out with a new full 104 keyboard.  And it has a 2 year warranty I think.

It is costar manufactured, and someone confirm it is using the same mold as Filco boards.

[Roguemaster8]

That's a shame, if you could overlook those flaws, the Unicomp is an excellent board.

1) In my experience of switching from BS to blues, the lightness was a little irritating at first, but I adjusted and got used to it. Blues are a modern imitation of buckling springs in my opinion.
2) That's called chattering and it's an uncommon occurrence with blue switches mostly. Easily fixed with compressed air though.
3) Switches do wear, but it would take years of heavy use to really notice it.
4) Filco. If money is an issue, a Quickfire Rapid.

[Crake]

That's a shame, if you could overlook those flaws, the Unicomp is an excellent board.

Do you think over-time those problems will get worse, or should I stay with it. I like it for the most part but wobbling and flex seem poor quality.

[retsteel]

I think that it should be opposite, at least on a first cherry keyboard, Quickfire, and if logos are an issue then filco, seriously the Quickfire is great quality just over branded.
With the quickfire trying blues would be your best bet but as others have said buckling springs have a significantly heavier press, it does take quite some getting used to if you are used to buckling springs, but it sounds like you didn't get too adapted to them so the switch should go well (I think).
Honestly my bottom line recommendation is that you try unicomp again, or some other Buckler, but it sounds like you don't want to do that and you want to go cherry therefore, quickfire.

[Crake]

want to go cherry therefore, quickfire.

Is Brown stiffer than Blue? Coolermasters site states the Brown have more resistance but I thought Blues took more force, no?

[retsteel]

I have never actually owned a brown so I cannot attest accurately to the stiffness but I believe that they are the same spring and therefore the same stiffness? I don't actually know for a fact though.

[rknize]

Is Brown stiffer than Blue? Coolermasters site states the Brown have more resistance but I thought Blues took more force, no?

Same spring, as previous poster said.  The browns are a bit less tactile and not clicky.  They feel lighter than blues to my fingers, but only slightly so.  I went from Model M straight to browns.  I was not happy as first.  After a few weeks, I got used to them though.  I'm not a fan of blues, but a lot of people here are.

[Crake]

Is there anywhere to get clears?

[rknize]

Clear switches you can buy anywhere.    Keyboards with clear switches are somewhat uncommon.  Costar does not seem to deal with them, so the Costar-built products never seem to have them (I don't know this for sure).  The only boards I know of off the top of my head are Deck Legend and Cherry.  EK sold a Leopold with clears a few months back, but he said he would not be stocking them again for some time.

[rknize]

If you want the best of both worlds, transplant the guts of a Unicomp Classic to a Model M case and caps.  I have a Lexmark.  I use it daily at work.  Honestly, the difference between a 1987 IBM and 1994 Lexmark is subtle.

[Crake]

What Cherry switch would be comparable to the Alps in the Siig:  http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?7595-Any-information-on-the-SIIG-JK-US0112-S1

I tried one at Fry's and I liked the feel of it, although I do not want small Backspace/large Return so I do not want that specific keyboard.

Is there a Cherry switch close to that feel?

[Roguemaster8]

Blues are "stiffer" then browns.

As for the wobbling and flex, it really isn't that big of a deal, the Unicomp won't fall apart over the years. You have to remember, there's a steel backplate in the middle of it.

The feet on mine were a little wobbly to, but then I realized they weren't fully extended. Also make sure nothing is under the keyboard, that could cause wobble as well. If you are still having problems, call up Unicomp and talk to Jim Owens. Really nice dude and goes out of his way to help customers.

[Crake]

Is Leopold as good of quality as the Coolermaster? Coolermaster will be out May 1 in Brown - Coolermaster does not know when Blue will be out.

[rknize]

Are you looking for a full keyboard, or tenkeyless?

[Crake]

full

[rknize]

They are both good keyboards.  Both plate-mounted.  The main difference, other than branding, is that CM Storm uses Costar key stabilizers while the Leopold uses the Cherry type.  There is a difference between them, but it's not huge.  The Cherry stabilizers work pretty well after a bit of use and with a bit of grease in them.  The Costar version is more conventional.

Doesn't the Leopold full size have a funky space bar that is an issue for SP group buys?

[Crake]

Yes.  In Leopold's infinite wisdom they decided to give the fullsize spacebar different spacing than the tenkeyless.

Why do you mean by this?

[Crake]

Ok, here are my choices I guess: 1) get replacement Unicomp or 2) wait for a blue Coolermaster

I like the Unicomp feel. My concern is the quality of the casing, keys scrapping and based on posts, this seems to be a common problem.  I can live with it but I am concerned it will get worse with age, and the keyboard will have creeks and groans from this.  Did I likely have bad luck or are do Unicomp keyboards generally have  squeaky, bad fitting plastic cases?

On the Coolermaster, I am concerned about chatter later on.  My computer room can get dusty, so I am concerned about future chatter problems if keys get dust in them.  How common of a problem is it?

[rknize]

Both of my Unicomps are nice, but others have had issue.  I had to snap the case back together after I got it.  Do you have a pic of your case issue?